Simple; post the wheel settings you use on here and don't forget to mention which wheel you are using.
(I'll contribute when my CSR returns from Germany after repairs
)
GRID Autosport Wheel settings
- Thread starter mister dog
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- Netherlands
- skazz-race
- skazzracer
Two options on the PC to make things useable (since 900 degrees is too much):
1. Set less than 900 degrees rotation in drivers (e.g. 450 works nicely)
2. Leave 900 degrees in drivers, and set steering saturation = 50%, steering linearity = 0 in game
Adjust to taste.
e.g. Perhaps you prefer less than 450 degrees, then you'd want lower saturation, or you could leave it at 50% and alter linearity a bit so the wheel is slower or faster to turn around center.
1. Set less than 900 degrees rotation in drivers (e.g. 450 works nicely)
2. Leave 900 degrees in drivers, and set steering saturation = 50%, steering linearity = 0 in game
Adjust to taste.
e.g. Perhaps you prefer less than 450 degrees, then you'd want lower saturation, or you could leave it at 50% and alter linearity a bit so the wheel is slower or faster to turn around center.
- 280
- Midlands
- VicrsVF1
I agreeSome are worse than others (Ravenwest or whoever your rival is) but if you get fully alongside they generally give you room. It's when you stick your nose 3 feet in front of their rear bumper they'll just turn into you. Race them like you'd race in real life and keep an eye out for your rivals and Ravenwest and they generally act like real drivers.
- 49
- TN
- Corsa911
Sry to Rez an old thread but I couldn't find an answer on the web.
I'm having an issue where the higher I set the steering strength the grittier the steering feels. Almost like there's sand in the gears. It goes away if I turn the strength down but that causes the wheel to feel lifeless.
Using g27 at 540 rotation.
Thanks in advance for any help
I'm having an issue where the higher I set the steering strength the grittier the steering feels. Almost like there's sand in the gears. It goes away if I turn the strength down but that causes the wheel to feel lifeless.
Using g27 at 540 rotation.
Thanks in advance for any help
LeGeNd-1
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- GTP_LeGeNd-1
That's how it is with Codemasters FFB unfortunately. You can try lowering wheel strength and increasing wheel weight to compensate, but it just makes the wheel have more resistance (not necessarily useful FFB). Vibration strength is the shake when going over curbs so I don't think that's your problem either. I have mine set at 50% for all 3 settings. Coming off from GT it does feel lifeless at first, but you get used to it 👍
- 49
- TN
- Corsa911
Thanks for the reply and that's good to know as I was thinking there might be something wrong with my wheel.
Regardless, I just purchased the game a few days ago and can't believe I've been missing out on this little gem.
Though it's not without it's flaws, the racing aspect is a blast and I can't wait to get further into the game, gritty steering and all.
A question.
Steering/throttle/brake saturation in many games States the 1:1 Is at 50% and by increasing this, or decreasing this will speed up or slow down the effect. Titles such as shift/shift 2/ pcars behave this way. Are these games the same?
Is there an official description of what each setting does, this (I believe) was a big factor as to why shift was viewed as having a bad or floaty feeling. Many set saturation to 100% which in fact was adding a 50% increase in saturation. It wasn't until sms finally explained that for wheels 50% saturation was indeed 1:1 that the game became much more playable/predictable in its driving ability.
Other games follow the same methodology, but I can't find an official description from CM regarding these options? I'd like to know as I'm going to create a list of CSW v2 settings for as many games as possible that are set to the perfect 1:1 ratio and that give the best overall feeling (if possible)
So in grid, does setting 100% saturation equate to how SMS and EA apply it, or is it "different" if so, how? And then does that mean only negative values will apply as its impossible to go over 100 too create a positive value?
Do CM have any official documentation on their controller settings, as I can't find a precise/concise explanation.
Steering/throttle/brake saturation in many games States the 1:1 Is at 50% and by increasing this, or decreasing this will speed up or slow down the effect. Titles such as shift/shift 2/ pcars behave this way. Are these games the same?
Is there an official description of what each setting does, this (I believe) was a big factor as to why shift was viewed as having a bad or floaty feeling. Many set saturation to 100% which in fact was adding a 50% increase in saturation. It wasn't until sms finally explained that for wheels 50% saturation was indeed 1:1 that the game became much more playable/predictable in its driving ability.
Other games follow the same methodology, but I can't find an official description from CM regarding these options? I'd like to know as I'm going to create a list of CSW v2 settings for as many games as possible that are set to the perfect 1:1 ratio and that give the best overall feeling (if possible)
So in grid, does setting 100% saturation equate to how SMS and EA apply it, or is it "different" if so, how? And then does that mean only negative values will apply as its impossible to go over 100 too create a positive value?
Do CM have any official documentation on their controller settings, as I can't find a precise/concise explanation.
LeGeNd-1
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100% saturation is 1:1. There's never any official explanation, but my testing (and others here will agree as well) finds that is the case. So 50% saturation with 900 degree = 450 degree and so on. Because of the physics you'll never need more than 900 degree anyways so it's a good thing they don't allow "positive values" as that will just make things confusing.
I see, so this game uses 100% as 1:1 and can't add positive values.
F1 uses 0% as 1:1 and can't add negative values
Shift, shift 2, Pcars use 50% as 1:1 and allow the user to strengthen or weaken the effect... I think it's already confusing
I'm going to try and get a repository of 1:1 settings gir each game specifically for the CSWv2 for everyone to reference. It might be useful to someone
It's difficult when these games are so significantly different with how they treat the wheel. It would be good to see a more universal approach. Open wheel drivers
I'll get on it this week, I've already dialled in a few just trying to get them as accurate as I can.
Cheers fir the info, at least I can start at 100% for that setting and move on the next
F1 uses 0% as 1:1 and can't add negative values
Shift, shift 2, Pcars use 50% as 1:1 and allow the user to strengthen or weaken the effect... I think it's already confusing
I'm going to try and get a repository of 1:1 settings gir each game specifically for the CSWv2 for everyone to reference. It might be useful to someone
It's difficult when these games are so significantly different with how they treat the wheel. It would be good to see a more universal approach. Open wheel drivers
I'll get on it this week, I've already dialled in a few just trying to get them as accurate as I can.
Cheers fir the info, at least I can start at 100% for that setting and move on the next
LeGeNd-1
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I see, so this game uses 100% as 1:1 and can't add positive values.
F1 uses 0% as 1:1 and can't add negative values
Shift, shift 2, Pcars use 50% as 1:1 and allow the user to strengthen or weaken the effect... I think it's already confusing
I'm going to try and get a repository of 1:1 settings gir each game specifically for the CSWv2 for everyone to reference. It might be useful to someone
It's difficult when these games are so significantly different with how they treat the wheel. It would be good to see a more universal approach. Open wheel drivers
I'll get on it this week, I've already dialled in a few just trying to get them as accurate as I can.
Cheers fir the info, at least I can start at 100% for that setting and move on the next
By F1 do you mean all Codies F1 games? Because if that's so, I've been using 100% all this time
I applaud EA, SMS and Codies for putting these settings for wheels (vs PD for example, who only puts FFB settings), but it gets super annoying when there isn't any official manual as to what these things do. They could've put it in the hardcopy manual in the game case, in-game tutorial or even a post in the official forums. But nope, users are left to test and get befuddled everytime a new game comes around.
The best solution is just to make the slider in degrees from 0-900 (or 1080 if the wheel supports it). That way there's no ambiguity.
Yup
F1 Codemasters use 0% Saturation as 1:1
This was posted on their old forum board and I'm sure is on here too in the f1 section. Thats why I'm surprised that all these games (some from the same developers) don't have a more universal approach?
It should get standardised and quickly!
F1 Codemasters use 0% Saturation as 1:1
This was posted on their old forum board and I'm sure is on here too in the f1 section. Thats why I'm surprised that all these games (some from the same developers) don't have a more universal approach?
It should get standardised and quickly!
mister dog
(Banned)
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- misterdog
- misterdog7
- 2,810
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- stigsdaddy
I'll try it again tonight, but I thought the last time I played f1 2014 that 50% was 1:1 lol. The on screen wheel at 50% seemed to turn the same amount as I was, at the stock 0% setting, I hardly had to turn at all, and the steering was far too twitchy. I'll check again tonight.
On GAS I use 100% saturation with 6 linearity for normal cars, and 40% saturation with 0 linearity for open wheelers. I never use any deadzone on any game. Hate deadzones. This is with a dfgt.
On GAS I use 100% saturation with 6 linearity for normal cars, and 40% saturation with 0 linearity for open wheelers. I never use any deadzone on any game. Hate deadzones. This is with a dfgt.
- 179
- Scotland
- Bush_Killa-73
Don't have any settings yet as only just took delivery of the game (along with GT6) so will have a better idea once I've tried it.
Been playing Driveclub but found my free copy of GRID2 on PS3/PSN+ just as much fun if not more so hence ordering GA.
Have you got any settings to share yourself diesel? Loving the T300RS. On to my second one as had issues with the pedals but all good so far
LeGeNd-1
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Maybe you're confusing it with linearity? Because linearity 50% is 1:1. I didn't try saturation 50%, but I'm quite sure the on-screen wheel matches my actual wheel 1:1 using saturation 100%. Sat 0% is far too twitchy as you said. Of course, Codies could have changed what the settings do between F1 2010 and 2014.
- 484
- Charleston, SC
- that's classified
I've just bought this game for my PS3, and I use a Driving Force Wireless. I've been experimenting with different settings, and I think I've nailed a good setup for it. Problem is, my TV is not making the words and numbers easy to see, but its something like this:
Steering Deadzone: 0-5%
Steering Saturation: 100%
Steering Linearity: 0
Throttle DZ: 0%
Throttle Sat.: 100%
Brake DZ: 0%
Brake Sat.: 100%
Int. Steering Wheel: On
Force Feedback Vibration On.
Vibration Strength: 60%
Wheel Strength: 100%
Wheel Weight: 80%
These seem to work best for me.
Steering Deadzone: 0-5%
Steering Saturation: 100%
Steering Linearity: 0
Throttle DZ: 0%
Throttle Sat.: 100%
Brake DZ: 0%
Brake Sat.: 100%
Int. Steering Wheel: On
Force Feedback Vibration On.
Vibration Strength: 60%
Wheel Strength: 100%
Wheel Weight: 80%
These seem to work best for me.
- 280
- Midlands
- VicrsVF1
Hi guy's I have T300 eneyone got settings for it ☺
- 1,281
- CENLA
- SoCaLLbeer
I just got my T300 last night.. had not touched this game in a long time. The settings are now different... and weird with the t300 vs the DFGT when the game was new.
My starting point: With Touring C car - Ford.
All deadzones = 0%
All Saturations = 100%
Wheel rotation = 900 deg (I might drop this it seems to be a bit much)
Steering Linearity = 6 (I will lower this as needed if I lower the rotation deg)
Vibration Strength = 50%
Wheel Strength = 60%
Wheel Weight = 50%
I did not have much time but those were ok.. If I play anymore I will update.
- 35,122
- Addison,Texas
- GTP_RACECAR
- 945
- Uk
- TheLeggacy
I've just got this game for PS3 and am experiencing the following issues:
1- the feedback (TM T500rs) sometimes seems to not want to centre the wheel, when going straight. It pushes away from the centre for a while and then goes back to normal, causing me to build up a bit of wiggle.
2- when using my Sony pulse headset, the sound occasionally cuts out and immediately comes back it's really annoying. It's not my headset as I've tested it out elsewhere and it's fine.
Any ideas?
This happened to anyone else?
1- the feedback (TM T500rs) sometimes seems to not want to centre the wheel, when going straight. It pushes away from the centre for a while and then goes back to normal, causing me to build up a bit of wiggle.
2- when using my Sony pulse headset, the sound occasionally cuts out and immediately comes back it's really annoying. It's not my headset as I've tested it out elsewhere and it's fine.
Any ideas?
This happened to anyone else?
LeGeNd-1
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Try reducing the wheel strength or weight to around 50%. I use G25 so I don't know what T500RS FFB is like, but when setting those values too high sometimes the wheel can have a delay when returning to center. It's a problem with all Codemasters games' FFB though. They are just not good in that department.
The sound cutting out was a known issue and patched already so make sure you get the latest update (can't remember exact version, sorry). I never use a headset though so I don't know if it still persists with it. Also, turning off menu music might help.
