GRID Autosport Wheel settings

[skazz]

If the wheel is trying to decenter, it's usually some kind of "reverse forces" setting which is turned on and shouldn't be. Odd to see that on PS3. I've never tried GAS on the PS3 so not sure.


My T500 experiences (on PC from a while back, not played GAS in months):
I tend to use around 70% force setting with my T500 in Codemasters games, but it's easy enough to switch on the fly during racing between 50-100% and see what feels nicest.
Wheel weight can always be set to 0% for the T500 unless you really like fighting a heavy wheel.
Vibration depends on the exact Codies game, I tend to use 20-30% in their offroad games, but needed something like 50% in GRiD Autosport I think.

I've standardized on 0% deadzones, 0 linearity, 100% saturation of brake/accelerator. Then I leave my Thrustmaster wheel on 900 degrees in drivers and set something between 50-60% steering saturation in game. 50% means effectively 450 degrees in game, 60% means 540 degrees. I prefer 540 where possible (e.g. using that in DiRT Rally), but if that feels a bit odd then 450 degrees is better.

Also I found GRiD Autosport is horrible at giving you cues you are locking up the brakes, which results in a weird floaty understeer. Setting ABS to on in game solves that without feeling odd, so I recommend using ABS enabled.

 

[LeGeNd-1]

Not that anyone cares about this game anymore, but I updated my wheel settings on page 1 of this thread.

After my "pilgrimage" to PC sims, I dabbled back in GAS tonight. I think I have a better understanding of FFB components thanks to meddling around with ISImotor .ini files Below are the explanations of each setting and changes that I made.

Wheel vibration = canned kerb effects
Wheel strength = steering rack forces (physics based)
Wheel weight = canned damper effects

Vibration is user preference. I actually like this quite strong, but after playing AC for a while I got used to not feeling rumble over kerbs so now I have it set to 20%. Enough to give a slight indication when you're on the kerbs, but not enough to overpower the steering rack forces.

Wheel strength is the key FFB. You want this 100% (lower it slightly if it's too heavy for you, but I don't recommend going below 80%). With my G25 there's a slight deadzone in the middle (even with all deadzone settings set to 0%), but the feel when cornering is amazing, even better than GT6 IMO. Catching oversteer is a lot more natural, and the wheel does go light when you understeer, although this effect is only present in extreme situations. ABS lockup feel is still absent though.

Wheel weight is the worst setting. Put this to 0% at all times. You know that floaty vague Codemasters feeling? Well, it turns out it's not a physics issue (I feel for discovering this so late). It's because of this setting. It muddles up the FFB as if you poured treacle into your wheel's mechanism. Once I turned this off the FFB is instantly sharp and the cars movements become crystal clear. It's almost like a different game 👍

With this new setting I feel GAS is even better than Gran Turismo in some aspects of its physics. Suspension movement is more alive certainly, and tires have more "flex" in them. The cars still have too much grip though so laptimes are not that realistic. Still, I think this makes GAS the best racer on the PS3. Kinda like a more arcadey version of rFactor, or a prototype version of PCARS.

I've finished the game a long time ago so I regret not finding this setting a lot sooner, but hopefully this will help those who are still playing. Enjoy! 👍

 

[Grippy]

Logitech G25
Deadzones: all 0%
Saturation: all 100%
Linearity: 4
Multiturn: ON
Set wheel rotation to 450 degree (racing) or 670 degree (drifting)**
Wheel vibration/strength/weight: 50%/50%/50% (old setting), 20%/100%/0% (NEW setting)

Been using that new setting for a bit. Seems to work fine on my G27 I changed it up a bit to suit my style.

Currently my settings on PS3:

Steering Deadzone 0%
Steering Saturation 100%
Steering Linearity 5%
MULTITURN ON (900degrees)

FFB ON
Vibration Strength 30%
Wheel Strength 50%
Wheel Weight 10%


I find the higher the Steering Linearity the higher the forces are near a neutral postion of the wheel. Also lets you turn the wheel less in corners. Too high a setting will make the FFB Clip and wheel will be difficult to control as it rocks side to side when driving in a straight line so don't put too high. I like 5 with 900degrees atm. I drive touring cars with this and clutch hahha

What's cool is if you want a family/small sedan feeling in your G27 simply change steering linearity to -2. Although it's difficult to race with so much turning