GT Sport Bug Report Thread

[Emp9u]

I'm not suggesting that you are, only that you are mistaken.

Nothing but Sport Mode races, in Daily Races and FIA GT Online Championship races, affect either your DR or SR.

Some people swore blind in the game's early days that other things affected DR - some claimed that their DR fell if they didn't race for a couple of days - but they don’t.

My gt sport stats:
https://www.kudosprime.com/gts/stats.php?profile=11527379#dr

Everybody can see how my DR is dropped today (from 4919 (C) to 1755 (D)).

 

[watto79]

My gt sport stats:
https://www.kudosprime.com/gts/stats.php?profile=11527379#dr

Everybody can see how my DR is dropped today (from 4919 (C) to 1755 (D)).

That doesn't mean it was affected by GT League (because it wasn't).

Does anybody else have access to your console or PlayStation account?

 

[Emp9u]

That doesn't mean it was affected by GT League (because it wasn't).

What then affected? My DR dropped after every GT League race I drove, as I said.. I checked my stats after every race and DR just dropped and dropped.

Does anybody else have access to your console or PlayStation account?

No

 

[csmirnoff]

My gt sport stats:
https://www.kudosprime.com/gts/stats.php?profile=11527379#dr

Everybody can see how my DR is dropped today (from 4919 (C) to 1755 (D)).

You did enter many Sport mode races in the last few days, many of which you quit. That's how you lost your DR. You have your race history here: https://gtsport.r1s3.net/user/11527379 (press the down arrow on the right and then go to Latest Races).

I guess you either thought you were entering GT League races when they actually were Sport mode races, or someone else is using your account...

 

[Famine]

My gt sport stats:
https://www.kudosprime.com/gts/stats.php?profile=11527379#dr

Everybody can see how my DR is dropped today (from 4919 (C) to 1755 (D)).

Yes.

You did enter many Sport mode races in the last few days, many of which you quit. That's how you lost your DR.

And as per the above, we can also see you raced several Daily Races the same day, and your more recent four were 9th of 16, a quit or disconnect, 14th of 16, and a quit or a disconnect. That would seem to tally perfectly well with a 3,200-point drop, given the 1,200-point deduction for also dropping from DR rank C to DR rank D.

 

[Emp9u]

Thanks for your replies!

Yes, I did all those races.. Quits after pushed out of track etc. But somehow there is strange delay in DR update, because it really seemed that GT League races affected it (DR dropped down after each GT League race).

 

[Emp9u]

By the way, in my opinion, DR loss for quitting the race is far too big. As far as I'm concerned, I usually quit (in short races) if I've pushed out of the track by some other driver. I know, 'never quit' is the key, but eventually the result by DR loss is almost the same in those situations (for example: quit vs. from 4 to 12). And that driver who pushed me out might get 2 sec penalty and maybe some SR loss, but still possibly could gain DR. So ultimately only who suffer is that driver who is pushed out if the track. So frustrating....

 

[watto79]

By the way, in my opinion, DR loss for quitting the race is far too big. As far as I'm concerned, I usually quit (in short races) if I've pushed out of the track by some other driver. I know, 'never quit' is the key, but eventually the result by DR loss is almost the same in those situations (for example: quit vs. from 4 to 12). And that driver who pushed me out might get 2 sec penalty and maybe some SR loss, but still possibly could gain DR. So ultimately only who suffer is that driver who is pushed out if the track. So frustrating....

If you quit, the game puts your finishing position as last place and you get the DR loss according to that. If someone quits before you quit you'll be put 2nd from last and so on.

So don't quit, hope you pick up a few positions and hope that a few other people do quit and you'll minimise your DR loss.

Getting pushed off the track is frustrating for sure, but quitting makes your DR even worse so it's really up to you.

 

[Dave_H_87]

Just had a quick search on the forum and couldn’t find any mentions of this bug.

i just entered the 1740 FIA race, got in to the lobby and the HUD loads but it seems the game failed to load the track etc.

Just a black screen with the HUD on top.

Tried pausing the game, pressing the PS button and going back in etc but to no avail.

Does anyone if it is something I have done in error?
Can give more details if needed

p.s. I was kicked from a lobby for the race probably ten minutes before I entered, however I had

 

[RacingGrandpa]

Just had a quick search on the forum and couldn’t find any mentions of this bug.

i just entered the 1740 FIA race, got in to the lobby and the HUD loads but it seems the game failed to load the track etc.

Just a black screen with the HUD on top.

Tried pausing the game, pressing the PS button and going back in etc but to no avail.

Does anyone if it is something I have done in error?
Can give more details if needed

p.s. I was kicked from a lobby for the race probably ten minutes before I entered, however I had

Try deleting your temporary files, it's under options, network.
Fixed it for me.

 

[fastone371]

Just had a quick search on the forum and couldn’t find any mentions of this bug.

i just entered the 1740 FIA race, got in to the lobby and the HUD loads but it seems the game failed to load the track etc.

Just a black screen with the HUD on top.

Tried pausing the game, pressing the PS button and going back in etc but to no avail.

Does anyone if it is something I have done in error?
Can give more details if needed

p.s. I was kicked from a lobby for the race probably ten minutes before I entered, however I had

I get this problem in lobbies frequently but I am able to back out and reenter the race.

 

[Kermit_2142]

By the way, in my opinion, DR loss for quitting the race is far too big. As far as I'm concerned, I usually quit (in short races) if I've pushed out of the track by some other driver. I know, 'never quit' is the key, but eventually the result by DR loss is almost the same in those situations (for example: quit vs. from 4 to 12). And that driver who pushed me out might get 2 sec penalty and maybe some SR loss, but still possibly could gain DR. So ultimately only who suffer is that driver who is pushed out if the track. So frustrating....

We all do it, but I wouldn’t worry about your dr too much as it will affect how you race. Obviously we all like to see improvement over time but your dr will always go up and down through cycles of good and bad.
Fundamentally dr is there to make lobbies to be as competitive as possible so the players have the closest race available at that time. If you treat it more as an estimate of how you are doing over time instead of every race and focus only on beating whoever is in front of you, you will enjoy the racing more and take away a lot of the stress you are carrying.

Like I said we’ve all been there, I still check my dr after every race (I just don’t let it bother me any more 👍)

 

[Rico89]

Hi, I don't know if this is strictly a bug, but it is grossly unfair.. When starting 4th on Circuit de la Sarthe the auto drive, that takes control for rolling starts, puts the driver in a near impossible position to stay on track. You either spin out or run wide as you're given back control of your car. In the last FIA manufacturers championship I qualified 4th and as the countdown hit 2, I realized I was in big trouble because the line the auto drive takes is insane. Sure enough It threw me off track and by the time I got back on track I had lost several places and I had dirty tyres, which left me running wide at the first chicane. I went from fourth to fourteenth by the first straight away and I ended up finishing 10th.

OK personal rant over but this is something players should know about and I hope the word gets out even though there's not much you can do. I've watched a few tracks from the last FIA Manufacturers race and only one person managed to only lose 1 place with the rest spinning out to last or near last place. Unbelievably unfair.

And from one extremely frustrated racer... Thanks for listening.

 

[BaareCZ]

Hi, I don't know if this is strictly a bug, but it is grossly unfair.. When starting 4th on Circuit de la Sarthe the auto drive, that takes control for rolling starts, puts the driver in a near impossible position to stay on track. You either spin out or run wide as you're given back control of your car. In the last FIA manufacturers championship I qualified 4th and as the countdown hit 2, I realized I was in big trouble because the line the auto drive takes is insane. Sure enough It threw me off track and by the time I got back on track I had lost several places and I had dirty tyres, which left me running wide at the first chicane. I went from fourth to fourteenth by the first straight away and I ended up finishing 10th.

OK personal rant over but this is something players should know about and I hope the word gets out even though there's not much you can do. I've watched a few tracks from the last FIA Manufacturers race and only one person managed to only lose 1 place with the rest spinning out to last or near last place. Unbelievably unfair.

And from one extremely frustrated racer... Thanks for listening.

I hear you, mate. There are quite a number of tracks in GTS where you're given control in a very unfavourable moment depending on your starting position. It's not a bug though. It's just another one of the countless unbelievably stupid and annoying things in this game that get absolutely no attention from PD. But hey, you can change the manufacturer logo on your tyres. Isn't that awesome?

I think this thread is more suitable for your post. Although this is not exactly a "little thing". But it definitely is annoying.

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/thre...-you-find-annoying-in-gt-sport.375114/page-46

 

[Emp9u]

And same thing in Nations Cup Suzuka..
If you're 10th on qualifying, game throws you out after auto drive at the middle of the chicane.. Insanely frustrating.

Hi, I don't know if this is strictly a bug, but it is grossly unfair.. When starting 4th on Circuit de la Sarthe the auto drive, that takes control for rolling starts, puts the driver in a near impossible position to stay on track. You either spin out or run wide as you're given back control of your car. In the last FIA manufacturers championship I qualified 4th and as the countdown hit 2, I realized I was in big trouble because the line the auto drive takes is insane. Sure enough It threw me off track and by the time I got back on track I had lost several places and I had dirty tyres, which left me running wide at the first chicane. I went from fourth to fourteenth by the first straight away and I ended up finishing 10th.

OK personal rant over but this is something players should know about and I hope the word gets out even though there's not much you can do. I've watched a few tracks from the last FIA Manufacturers race and only one person managed to only lose 1 place with the rest spinning out to last or near last place. Unbelievably unfair.

And from one extremely frustrated racer... Thanks for listening.

 

[jkkartfan99]

hi, me and couple of my friends are having a bug lately. Last friday and Last Night when the race started my Car wouldn't move. During practice the car moves and it they're no problem but when it's time to race it doesn't move. when it happens it crashes my and my friends games.

Has this happened to you or anyone you know?

 

[Famine]

hi, me and couple of my friends are having a bug lately. Last friday and Last Night when the race started my Car wouldn't move. During practice the car moves and it they're no problem but when it's time to race it doesn't move. when it happens it crashes my and my friends games.

Has this happened to you or anyone you know?

Presumably you're talking about an online lobby?

Network conflict. Both of you need to set up your consoles and routers.

So GT Sport - like GT6 and GT5, and GT5P - is a bit sensitive to network environments, and a connection that's fine one day (or hour) might be ropey the next. There's an "easy" way to optimise your own network environment and make it as stable and friendly as possible.

Step 1 - Wire it in
A wired connection is innately more stable (and marginally broader and more responsive) than a wireless one.

Step 2 - Static IP address
This is a little more complicated and requires knowing a very small amount about your home network.
In essence, your router (the thing that plugs into the outside world) has a small amount of addresses (called IP addresses) that it assigns to the devices connecting to it. It receives information from the outside world, works out which device it has to go to and sends it there. Your device also sends information to it, which the router translates to show which device it has come from, and sends it out. This is a function known as "Network Address Translation" (NAT). Now you know what "NAT Type" means - the type of NAT currently used. NAT Type 2 is best and NAT Type 3 is the worst, for really boring reasons. If you have NAT Type 3 you will absolutely need to do the rest of this list.
If left to its own devices (it probably would), the router will assign IP addresses automatically. This means that every time a device is turned on, the router gives it a number. This is usually sequential, but not always, and known as DHCP (Dynamic Host Configuration Protocol). If you have lots of devices connected at once, this can sometimes cause issues as a device "wants" the IP address another one is using. It's usually only a hiccup, but it can be bad if you're doing 140mph when it hiccups because your kid is checking their phone...
For stability purposes it's better to assign each and every device in your house its own, permanent IP address. First you'll need to find out what IP addresses your router uses. Usually, this will be 192.168.0.[any number from 2-255], with the router itself as 192.168.0.1, but not always*. Best way to check is to look at the router's own IP address, printed on the back of it. That's the address you'd type into your browser to log into your router's control panel. Once you've found out, pick a number from 2-255...
Then, on the PS4 go to:
Settings (second button from the right hand side)
-> Network
-> Set Up Internet Connection
If you've wired it in as above, pick "use a LAN cable". If not, bad you, pick WiFi.
On the next screen pick "Custom", and then "Manual". Now you need to enter the IP address you've chosen, along with some other... kookier information.
For your IP address enter the number you picked. "Subnet Mask" is even more almost always going to be 255.255.255.0. "Default Gateway" is your router's address. The DNS (Domain Name Server; the servers that change the IP addresses of locations into names, like gtplanet.net) settings are up to you; your ISP has its DNS and these will likely be in the router's control panel under DNS. It's easier to use the free DNS at OpenDNS. These are "208.67.220.220" and "208.67.222.222".

As a random example, the screen should now look something like this:
IP Address - 192.168.0.4
Subnet Mask - 255.255.255.0
Default Gateway - 192.168.0.1
Primary DNS - 208.67.220.220
Secondary DNS - 208.67.222.222

On the next screens hit Automatic, Do Not Use and Test. It'll now do a network test. If you have set ANYTHING wrong, it will fail at the "Obtain IP address" or "Internet Connection" stage. Double check your numbers...

Lastly, it's best to do exactly the same thing in your router, and it's required for the next step. Routers vary wildly in where to find this function, but you should have your own instruction manual for it... It's likely to be under an advanced settings menu, labelled as IP addresses or network configuration or something similar. All you need to do is find your console (this can be tricky, as it may be listed by its MAC address; you can find your console's MAC address in its Settings menu somewhere. I forget where. It's a set of six pairs of hexadecimal numbers, from 00-FF, separated by colons), click on that and enter the IP address you picked for it.

If you think this is geeky, I've done it for every device in my house, numbering 25 or so now. And the consoles, laptops, mobiles and computers are separated into dedicated IP blocs, so when we get a new one it's easy to remember what the next number should be. NEEEEEEEEEEEEEERD!

Step 3 - DMZ
So, basically, devices need to send information out through "ports". This is stupendously difficult to explain - you and I might think that a "port" is what you plug a cable into, but it's not. Well, not in this sense - it's a networking thing. Routers have built-in protective "firewalls" that block certain ports under certain conditions. This is great - it helps prevent your computer from being compromised, or sending out information when it has been - but when a console has its ports blocked, you can't game.

Routers also have a place outside of their normal firewall called the DMZ - which, yes, is the Demilitarised Zone. This is a connection where the firewall doesn't exist, so there's no defences. As there's no defences, there's no ports blocked. This is great news for gaming.

Once you've assigned the static IP address to the PS4 both in the console and in the router, you'll want to find your router's DMZ function. Again, this varies wildly, but is often just labelled as "DMZ". It may be under a Firewall menu or similar. Again, consult your manual. You'll need to then assign the console's IP address (or some routers allow you to assign the device, if you can remember its MAC Address, or you gave it a name) to the DMZ.

You can only assign a single device or IP to a DMZ, and your console is the safest thing to put there.

Once you've done all this, the chances are that you won't see any immediate differences in the network test. You might have a slightly lower ping, or a slightly higher bandwidth, but probably won't. But what you will have is the absolute ideal conditions for your console for online gaming, and the only disconnects that will affect you should be when everyone gets booted from a lobby. Or if your internet connection itself falls over, or there's a power cut.

It won't cure low bandwidth, high ping connections, but it will make it more stable and it's everything you can do to make it work. Unless your ISP throttles gaming traffic, which some do, the bastards...


*Mine is NOT the same as this. If yours isn't as well, and you don't know what you're doing, shout at me in PMs and I'll help

 

[jrbabbitt]

Driving Line Disappears

Occasionally my driving line vanishes from the track, I have it turned on, and in the races I run the driving line is not restricted, so I ask is this a recurring glitch or bug?

Just had a quick search on the forum and couldn’t find any mentions of this bug.

i just entered the 1740 FIA race, got in to the lobby and the HUD loads but it seems the game failed to load the track etc.

Just a black screen with the HUD on top.

Tried pausing the game, pressing the PS button and going back in etc but to no avail.

Does anyone if it is something I have done in error?
Can give more details if needed

p.s. I was kicked from a lobby for the race probably ten minutes before I entered, however I had

I too have seen this and just before i get onto the track i look at the center of screen, if i see black then i just click on garage at bottom and quickly cancel out and it resets the screen proper.

I get the same black screen for 3-5 seconds about 10 minutes after I turn the game on for at least the last 2 years regardless of whether I am in a lobby, garage menu, or arcade mode. If I am racing when it happens I quickly press the pause button, my car gets driven by the game until I resume, at least I dont crash that way.

I also get this but i have figured it out to be an HDMI issue between my PS4 and my flatscreen, when i switched ports from 3 to 2 the problem went away, when my screen goes completely dark i would still have audio, if it was a network issue you would lose the audio also.

 

[fastone371]

Driving Line Disappears

Occasionally my driving line vanishes from the track, I have it turned on, and in the races I run the driving line is not restricted, so I ask is this a recurring glitch or bug?



I too have seen this and just before i get onto the track i look at the center of screen, if i see black then i just click on garage at bottom and quickly cancel out and it resets the screen proper.


I also get this but i have figured it out to be an HDMI issue between my PS4 and my flatscreen, when i switched ports from 3 to 2 the problem went away, when my screen goes completely dark i would still have audio, if it was a network issue you would lose the audio also.

I would loose picture and audio but it also happened in offline mode too. I have seemed to have fixed this problem as suggested in an earlier post.

 

[JoeDaSnow]

When I looked up the lap times of the S660 Super Lap, I was listed as having the lap time of 2:11:676, even though I hadn't entered yet. That wasn't supposed to happen to me.

 

[Jagman XK8]

When I looked up the lap times of the S660 Super Lap, I was listed as having the lap time of 2:11:676, even though I hadn't entered yet. That wasn't supposed to happen to me.

I thought it was just me and couldn't find anything on the GT website about this.

When a new TT is introduced, it normally states 'not yet entered' and your lap time is blank, as you would expect. However, this week I appear to have entered both, which I haven't, in cars outside of the designated category. Friends historic times also appear.

My time in the S660 event is for a BMW M3!

Can someone please confirm that this is a glitch within the server, or game? I was concerned that my account had been compromised.

Thanks.

 

[XSquareStickIt]

Hello. I've done a very brief search of this thread and couldn't find anything mentioning it, though I have to admit I didn't scroll through every page of this thread, so apologies if this has already been mentioned.

In the Stars and Stripes events in GT League, the game states that the races are all N400 races, yet I could bump the power of my Viper all the way to N800 with no repercussions. I've even entered the races in a Gr.X Hellcat Safety Car or even a Tomahawk S (not the X, oddly...). The Hellcats and the Tomahawk are listed in the "Eligible Cars" list, so I'm not sure if this is a bug or a feature. Odd that the game will denote it's a N400 race if it seemingly allows me to enter almost any American car.

Here's a screenshot of it for proof. I've also saved a replay I can share if anyone else is interested.

Gran Turismo®SPORT_20210703200528.png

• XSquareStickIt
• Jul 4, 2021

 

[jrbabbitt]

Hello. I've done a very brief search of this thread and couldn't find anything mentioning it, though I have to admit I didn't scroll through every page of this thread, so apologies if this has already been mentioned.

In the Stars and Stripes events in GT League, the game states that the races are all N400 races, yet I could bump the power of my Viper all the way to N800 with no repercussions. I've even entered the races in a Gr.X Hellcat Safety Car or even a Tomahawk S (not the X, oddly...). The Hellcats and the Tomahawk are listed in the "Eligible Cars" list, so I'm not sure if this is a bug or a feature. Odd that the game will denote it's a N400 race if it seemingly allows me to enter almost any American car.

Here's a screenshot of it for proof. I've also saved a replay I can share if anyone else is interested.

Gran Turismo®SPORT_20210703200528.png

• XSquareStickIt
• Jul 4, 2021

Yes, but you will notice that your winning credits are less that listed at the entry of race, if you were to use a N300 or less and win your winnings would be increased for using a handicapped car, for example there is a race where the rating is N1000 but if you win with a N300 you will net a 150% handicap bonus. It's GT'S way of penalizing you if you use an overpowered car to win, you get less money per win

 

[habsfrenzy]

I believe it was the first race of the season today and I was automatically re-signed with the same team as last year. I’m thinking it was a glitch or Hyundai was so impressed with my last season they renewed my contract.
cheers, good racing

 

[RacingGrandpa]

I believe it was the first race of the season today and I was automatically re-signed with the same team as last year. I’m thinking it was a glitch or Hyundai was so impressed with my last season they renewed my contract.
cheers, good racing

Not a glitch or bug. When you signed up it was for both seasons.

 

[wagnerFAM98]

Well, I'm pretty sure the new GR 86 wasn't supposed to cost 8.600 Cr., I feel we're missing a zero. But I think this is the kind of thing PD will quickly fix as soon as possible, so...

Hurry up and get your all-new Toyota GR 86 with a huge discount! 😂 😂

 

[Draggon]

Well, I'm pretty sure the new GR 86 wasn't supposed to cost 8.600 Cr., I feel we're missing a zero. But I think this is the kind of thing PD will quickly fix as soon as possible, so...

Hurry up and get your all-new Toyota GR 86 with a huge discount! 😂 😂

I saw that too! I thought perhaps it was PD's way to get all of us to buy the car.

 

[habsfrenzy]

Not a glitch or bug. When you signed up it was for both seasons.

Thanks, I guess that’s what happens when you sign a contract before reading it.

 

[BloodRaven]

Not sure if this is a bug or if this needs to go here, or not. If not, mods please move to appropriate place.

I just updated the game. Everything is fine, except for the size of screen when in the game (not just a race, but in any menu or even the main screen). It's a bit too big and the words/icons close to the edge are cropped or disappear outside the edges of the screen. Is there a way to reset the size? I know when I first installed the game there was a thing where I had to resize the in-game screen to make sure the lines were visible but at the very edge of the physical screen. But I can't find that setting anywhere.

ETA: N/M, I found it.

 

[Draggon]

I'm surprised no one has mentioned that the penalty sectors from sport mode are now present in arcade mode. No penalties are imposed, just the silly little yellow flags marking the start of the sector.

Edit Sun 7/11: I shut off the PS4, restarted it and when I resumed the game the yellow flags were gone.