- 587
- England
Here are the pics that I said I would post about pedal swap on Fanatec and how I stopped the playseat from flexing.
Pic 1...I used 25mm MDF to bolt the playseat down. I can still move the seat back and forth so young George can still move everything closer for his shorter legs
Pic 2... I made a frame to put under the pedal mount to stop movement. It flexed a lot before I did this.
Pic 3...I had to make new spacers between the pedals when I done the swap. I used conduit that we usually use to run wire through!. This is a temporary measure as I intend to get rid of the clutch completely. I have seen some carbon fibre looking tube that I will use when doing this. When I get rid of the clutch I will move the pedals together a bit more.
Pic 4... Clutch is tied back. Once swapped the clutch pedal wiring will not reach the control box. So this is unplugged. I used wider cable ties, all I had at the time, to secure the wiring to frame and looks ok.
This took about 4 hours to do. Next time I take it apart (to remove the clutch pedal) will probably be around 30 minutes, now that I know the way to do it.
PS. One thing to note when taking the pedals apart is that the big screws, on the end or the pedal bars, are overly tight. I had to use an extension bar over the allen key I used to undo them which gave more leverage.
PPS. The reason you cannot use the original spacers when swapping the pedals is because the load cell housing is too wide and comes into contact with the upright supports. Maybe Fanatec could, in future builds, move the clutch pedal 10mm in then a swap would be more straightforward without the need for different sized spacers. They could also supply the correct sized spacers with the pedals to make complete clutch removal easier. Cost of that to them would be maybe 50 cents, 1 dollar at the most!
Pic 1...I used 25mm MDF to bolt the playseat down. I can still move the seat back and forth so young George can still move everything closer for his shorter legs
Pic 2... I made a frame to put under the pedal mount to stop movement. It flexed a lot before I did this.
Pic 3...I had to make new spacers between the pedals when I done the swap. I used conduit that we usually use to run wire through!. This is a temporary measure as I intend to get rid of the clutch completely. I have seen some carbon fibre looking tube that I will use when doing this. When I get rid of the clutch I will move the pedals together a bit more.
Pic 4... Clutch is tied back. Once swapped the clutch pedal wiring will not reach the control box. So this is unplugged. I used wider cable ties, all I had at the time, to secure the wiring to frame and looks ok.
This took about 4 hours to do. Next time I take it apart (to remove the clutch pedal) will probably be around 30 minutes, now that I know the way to do it.
PS. One thing to note when taking the pedals apart is that the big screws, on the end or the pedal bars, are overly tight. I had to use an extension bar over the allen key I used to undo them which gave more leverage.
PPS. The reason you cannot use the original spacers when swapping the pedals is because the load cell housing is too wide and comes into contact with the upright supports. Maybe Fanatec could, in future builds, move the clutch pedal 10mm in then a swap would be more straightforward without the need for different sized spacers. They could also supply the correct sized spacers with the pedals to make complete clutch removal easier. Cost of that to them would be maybe 50 cents, 1 dollar at the most!
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