GT4 Tuning Guides - Part 2 added 22/03/06

  • Thread starter Scaff
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nizzan1984
Hey everybody! I am new here and I want to ask you guys a question. Is there a paint shop in gt4? I heard there is and it was unlocked when you reached 5000 for your skill level. how do you get to the paint shop?

Thx!

Welcome to GT Planet.

In answer to your question GT4 has no paintshop at all, it existance was an unfounded rumour.

Unfortunatly it does not exist.

Regards

Scaff

BTW - please try and avoid posting questions that are totaly off topic in specific threads, you could have got the answer to this one by searching.

👍
 
wow, that tyre topic alone in the guide is carried out in amazing detail - answered the questions I was looking for and then some, great job!

I have one question though - for the majority of your tuning, what tyre choice do you use as you used the S2s in the CSL guide and found the N2s most similar to real life?
 
KSaiyu
wow, that tyre topic alone in the guide is carried out in amazing detail - answered the questions I was looking for and then some, great job!

I have one question though - for the majority of your tuning, what tyre choice do you use as you used the S2s in the CSL guide and found the N2s most similar to real life?

Thanks for the comments and I'm glad you found it both interesting and of use.

In regard to the tyre issue, I always tweak tunings for tyre choice and as I do a lot of hot-lapping I normally run N2 or N3 tyres.

I stuck to the standard issue S2 tyres so that the car was 'stock' in every way to begin with.

To be honest a set-up that starts life on N spec tyres will normally transfer well to S spec tyres (and vice versa), its normally only when you head to the R spec tyres that the huge increase in grip starts to make a big difference. I have also found that the R spec tyres can mask a poor set-up.

Regards

Scaff


BTW - if yo liked the tyre stuff in the first guide wait until you get to the gear ratios and track guide in the second one.
 
I am sure I posted in a thread about this already. But I just want to say it again. Brilliant guides scaff, I have just sat and read the first guides, and am part way into No.2. Very well written. I am using the time wisely because my back is dead, so I have to just sit here...

Anyways well done scaff.
 
I'm new to GT4 and have been going crazy trying to learn to tune a car.

THANKS SCAFF!!!

His two part guide is the most comprehensive, technical,yet easy to understand by idiots like me that I've seen.

A lot of hard work obviously went into this and I can't thank Scaff enough for providing us with this great guide.
 
michael noble
:confused: tune my mazda for full speed help :confused:

Your Mazda what? What track? Seriously - do a search on the car/track combo you're working on, and while you're at it take a look at the faq's - chances are your question has probably already been answered.

Duċk's tuning guides would be a good place to start, as well as Scaff's guides in the first post on this very thread 👍

Welcome to GTPlanet, too :)

[Edit] forgot to say - if it's absolute top speed you're after, take a look at the 300mph thread too - not many (if any) complete setups, but lots of hints and tips.
 
Once again thanks for the kind words guys, It does make the time and effort put into the guides worth it.

👍

I'm glad that they are proving useful and if anyone does have any questions about the guides or finds any part unclear, please feel free to ask.

Thanks

Scaff
 
Scaff....i have a slight bit of a problem with both the guides....

i cant read them, the text in both show up as a bunch of squares and bold 4's.......


really wish i could read it....the diagrams are great :P

possibly a font issue?
 
Scaff....i have a slight bit of a problem with both the guides....

i cant read them, the text in both show up as a bunch of squares and bold 4's.......


really wish i could read it....the diagrams are great :P

possibly a font issue?

It could be a font issue, but this is the first time anyone has raised it.

The font used is Aerial Black and the guides were both written in Word and then converted to .pdf format using pdf995.

I have just double checked both guides and using Adobe Reader 7.0 I can open and read them just fine, what version of Adobe Reader are you using??

Regards

Scaff
 
This is my first post in the forums i believe and i'd just like to start off by saying well done Scaff. That has to be the most comprehensive guide to tuning in GT4 i have seen to date. I take my hat off to you mate.

I started trawling the web last week in search of a better tuning guide than was contained in the book "Gran Turismo 4: The official Guide" by piggybackinteractive.com. It explained briefly the effects of settings but I felt it could have been a bit better in it's explanation of the effects of different parts and tweaks and how to resolve different issues I was having with my cars. That's when I came across your guides and my search stopped with them.

I must admit your 'feel' for the cars handling characteristics must be way more acute than mine,because as I followed your example of a tune in the first guide I could not readily "feel" the benefits and/or changes of some of the settings you provided. Specifically in response to how "stiff" the M3 felt for you. My only confirmation came in the result of reduced lap times. Perhaps with more refined work on some of my other cars will I begin to get a finer 'feel' for what the cars are doing on the track.

I do have a couple of questions regarding the initial layout and default settings of the car/s in the example.

1. I'm not sure if I read over this part or not, but a quick skim back through the guide failed to reveal. In the initial "default" setup of the M3, were the Driver Aids turned on or off?

2. In addition, do you advocate the leaving on/turning off of the ASM and TCS on every car before attempting a tune?

3. In your M3 CSL example you have not performed any of the "power" or "weight" modifications. If one was to make additional power and weight reduction modifications, would this change the characteristics of a car to the extent that it would require a "start from scratch" approach to the tune? Or would the previous settings hold true to the car no matter what the changes in BHP or weight?

I ask these questions because I am trying to perform a tune, following your method, on the first car I bought in GT4. It is a Toyota STARLET Glanza V '97 with absolutely every modification money could buy. As you might imagine it handles like crap lol. Even my B-Spec driver (Skill: Overall 7292; Machine 90; Course 72; Battle 72) can't keep the bloody thing on the track through corners, preferring to power on out into the sandtraps mid corner.

I began the tune by removing every "removable" modification I had made, then making a start on tuning using the method outlined in the guide. I then stopped and thought that maybe this was pointless as when I put all the power mods back on it would change the handling completely.

Anyway, thanks again for writing the fantastic guides and I look forward to your answers to my questions. Maybe after I sort these issues out I will be able to provide some good tuning examples of my "maxed out" machines for the GTPlanet community.

Thanks, IronM@sk
 
This is my first post in the forums i believe and i'd just like to start off by saying well done Scaff. That has to be the most comprehensive guide to tuning in GT4 i have seen to date. I take my hat off to you mate.
Thanks for the feedback IronM@ask and I'm glad you found the guides to be interesting and also that they have brought you to GTPlanet, easily the greatest single GT resource on Earth (even if we do say so ourselves) and a damn nice place as well.



I do have a couple of questions regarding the initial layout and default settings of the car/s in the example.

1. I'm not sure if I read over this part or not, but a quick skim back through the guide failed to reveal. In the initial "default" setup of the M3, were the Driver Aids turned on or off?
As I'm at work at present I can't check if I specifically said it in the guide or not, but all my tuning is done without driver aids at all.

They have a major effect on the cars behaviour, particularly ASM (and to a lesser degree TCS), which will make the effects of tuning very difficult to read and can lead you down 'wrong' paths.



2. In addition, do you advocate the leaving on/turning off of the ASM and TCS on every car before attempting a tune?
As you can probably guess from my reply above I advocate turning them off for every car, I tuned the TVR Speed 12 and Alpine A310 with no driver aids so it perfectly possible to work with even the most unruly cars with a decent set-up and a modicum of driver ability (particularly throttle control in the case of the Speed 12).



3. In your M3 CSL example you have not performed any of the "power" or "weight" modifications. If one was to make additional power and weight reduction modifications, would this change the characteristics of a car to the extent that it would require a "start from scratch" approach to the tune? Or would the previous settings hold true to the car no matter what the changes in BHP or weight?
I do say (if I recall correctly) at the end of the second example (guide 2) that changes to the power and/weight of a car may require a change in set-up, it does to a degree depend on the nature and extent of the changes and the car itself.

Certainly a major boost in power will require some work, but you will normally find the most work is often required from a big change in weight (as it effects the suspension settings so much).

I always try and plan out any mods to a car and build from that point, with practice you can start to see patterns of cause and effect. For example weight reduction very often will require a reduction in spring rate, damper values and stabilisers, not because you want the car softer but because the reduction in weight effects the balance between suspension and the car (spring rates that are soft on a 2000kg car will be stiff for a 1000kg car).

I ask these questions because I am trying to perform a tune, following your method, on the first car I bought in GT4. It is a Toyota STARLET Glanza V '97 with absolutely every modification money could buy. As you might imagine it handles like crap lol. Even my B-Spec driver (Skill: Overall 7292; Machine 90; Course 72; Battle 72) can't keep the bloody thing on the track through corners, preferring to power on out into the sandtraps mid corner.

I began the tune by removing every "removable" modification I had made, then making a start on tuning using the method outlined in the guide. I then stopped and thought that maybe this was pointless as when I put all the power mods back on it would change the handling completely.

Anyway, thanks again for writing the fantastic guides and I look forward to your answers to my questions. Maybe after I sort these issues out I will be able to provide some good tuning examples of my "maxed out" machines for the GTPlanet community.

Thanks, IronM@sk
Maxed out tuning is always a challenge and with certain cars (in particular FWD ones) a lower limit will often be the quicker option, its hard to say specifically as it varies form car to car, but I would always advocate building the car in stages and tuning as you go. It may take longer but you almost always get the result you are after.

Regards

Scaff
 
Great guides, Scaff. 👍

Quick question: Could you make a summary .pdf (ideally 3-4 pages) of the tuning guides (basically summarising what effect everything has on the car)? I want to learn to tune properly, but I can't exactly print off 40+ pages on a 4ppm printer. :(
 
Scaff....i have a slight bit of a problem with both the guides....

i cant read them, the text in both show up as a bunch of squares and bold 4's.......


really wish i could read it....the diagrams are great :P

possibly a font issue?

I'm having the same problem. HELP!:ouch:
 
I'm having the same problem. HELP!:ouch:

What version of Adobe Acrobat Reader are you using?

I've just downloaded the first guide and opened it up with Acrobat Reader 7.0.7 (commonly known as version 7) and it looks fine for me.

It may be just an issue with the version of Acrobat Reader you are using, if its an older version try updating it, after all the reader is free.

If its not that let me know and I will have a think of a way around it.

Regards

Scaff
 
I'm using version 7.0 and it works fine, thats probably the problem.

BTW Scaff, awesome guide. Thanks a lot for the time and effort involved.
It really helped my game immensely.
I have a friend who is a way better driver than me, but I out-tune him everytime now.
 
I'm using version 7.0 and it works fine, thats probably the problem.

BTW Scaff, awesome guide. Thanks a lot for the time and effort involved.
It really helped my game immensely.
I have a friend who is a way better driver than me, but I out-tune him everytime now.

Good to hear that someone else is OK using version 7.0 and very glad to hear that you found the guide(s) of use.

Thanks 👍

Scaff
 
this question doesn't belong to here, but 300mph club. fastest racecar is Toyota GT-One, topping out around 370mph. Fastest roadcar.. well, I don't remember what it was.

edit: Tommykaira ZZ-II, 330mph.
 
Scaff:

I'm not sure if you still keep tabs on this thread, but I've read it from start to finish, and I've got some help for you with the tire diameter question. It's pretty math intensive, since wheel dimensions are not expressed in GT4. I used it with my own vehicle (IRL) to calculate my final drive ratio, and devised a bit of a formula. You can use it with either KM or MI (you'll have to use the base of 60 so that you are travelling @ 1 mi/km per minute)

E = engine rpm
W = wheel rpm (E / F / G)
F = final drive ratio
G = gear ratio (whichever gear gets you to 60 mph or km/h)
C = tire circumference
D = tire diameter
R = 1,000 meters or 5,280 feet (depending upon your base)

If all factors are known EXCEPT wheel diameter, then you can arrive at that by using the formula below:

[R / W] / 3.14 = D

To arrive at your wheel RPM, you must know the engine's RPM @ 60, then divide it by the current gear ratio and the final drive ratio, which order doesn't really matter (typically this will require a full custom trans). Divide 5280 or 1000 by the resulting number, and you'll have the amount of distance that tire covers per revolution, which is the tire's circumference. Divide that by "pi" and you've arrived at your tire's diameter. It's not L33T-ÜBER-PRECISION!!1, but it's danged close.

So, for a car that revs 2,000 RPM @ 60 mph in 5th gear with a ratio of .76:1 and a final drive of 3.23:1 (my truck's real-life figures)

[5280 / (2000 / .76 / 3.23)] / 3.14 = 2.06 ft.

or, in metric @ 60 km/h (had to switch to 4th gear with a 1:1 ratio)

[1000 / (1640 / 1 / 3.23)] / 3.14 = 63 cm (.63 m)

BTW, 2.06 ft = 63 cm.

I hope this is of some kind of use to you. It's helped me a bit, and I hope it answers the questions y'all had before (even though that was a pretty long time ago).

INE
 
Guys, sorry for the delay in checking on the thread, but thanks for all your feedback and glad that have found the guides useful.

👍

@Ignignoc N Err - thanks for the formula and info, very handy.

Regards

Scaff
 
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