Gt6 mr cars are broken

  • Thread starter Vos360
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My advice made the F40 easily driveable....

As for "over driving" to ME refers to turning full angle which stresses the rear tires keeping up. Once already on the edge of traction applying any gas can cause them to slip.

Turning up the decel on the diff will prevent the issue, but you'll loose some turning radius while turning off the throttle.
 
What do you mean by "over driving"? This is a racing game, and it's AI can drive just as fast as you, without accessories and without error, they're perfect.

I've since bought other racing cars and it's clear that they did something to MR. The worst e ample yet is the Ferrari F40, which makes the GT2 look like a cake walk. That car is truly un drivable for me, any tuning advice?
Over-driving can mean driving the car past it's limits. Just because a car CAN do 160 MPH into that corner, it doesn't mean you should! Or, sometimes you need to ease into the throttle in the lower gears, lest the rear tires start spinning. Things like that...

Anyway, the F40 is probably my favorite overall car in the game. Let me suggest that you go HERE and apply that tune to your F40. You may notice that there are several different setups listed. For starters, just go with the 540PP version listed. Meaning:

Specs - No Power Upgrade - No Fuel Curb Weight
Horsepower: 471 HP / 478 PS at 7000 RPM
Torque: 425.2 ft-lb at 4000 RPM
Power Limiter at : 100%
Weight: 1169 kg ( weight figure without fuel, calculated based on 0.711kg for 1 litre of fuel and 1254kg on 120L full tank )
Ballast : 57 kg
Ballast Position : -13
Weight Distribution : 42 / 58 as in real life ( without fuel )
Performance Points: 540

I would suggest that you start off with the suspension setup that uses ride height of 101/101:

Suspension - Eibach ERS Springs with Street/Track Tuned Damper and Real World Alignment
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 101 101 - standard - Alternate Ride Height F/R : 63 56 ( lowest ), 115 115 ( high ) and 81 101 ( track lowered)
Spring Rate: 8.25 12.00 - Alternate High Speed Track Oriented Spring Rate F/R : 12.00 12.00
Dampers (Compression): 7 7
Dampers (Extension): 7 6
Anti-Roll Bars: 4 4
Camber Angle: 0.5 1.8
Toe Angle: 0.33 0.33

Disregard the Alternate settings, for now... I would use the following LSD settings:

LSD -ZF Self Locking LSD with 60% Lock and Medium Preload - AUTO Motorsport Mag 1989 Review Version
Initial Torque : 30
Acceleration Sensitivity: 36
Braking Sensitivity: 36

Don't forget to adjust the weight settings:

Weight Reduction Stage 3
Window Weight Reduction
Ballast : 57 kg
Ballast Position : -13

Finally, setup the transmission properly:

DOG CLUTCH TRANSMISSION - Corrected EU Market AUTO Motorsport Mag 1989 Review Version Ratio Gear Set and Final
Install all power parts
Set Default
Set Final to 4.000
Set Auto Max Speed to 310kmh / 193mph
Adjust each gear :
1st 2.769
2nd 1.722
3rd 1.227
4th 0.963
5th 0.767
Final Gear : 3.620
Optimum Shift Point : 7400-7700 RPM ( as in real life )

Go ahead and put on any tires you'd like...I'd recommend something in the Sports category to start with. If you really want to feel safe, go with Sport Soft, but Sport Hard is probably all you need.

Good luck! I hope you enjoy it. The car is still a handful. You're not going to just keep your foot to the floor the entire lap, but it does drive well! 👍
 
What do you mean by "over driving"? This is a racing game, and it's AI can drive just as fast as you, without accessories and without error, they're perfect.

The AI are perfect?

No, they're horrible. They brake too early and turn too slowly. They often brake for no reason and take some bizarre lines. They frequently leave the track and crash. Finally, they unnecessarily head to the pits with most weather changes.

As for the F40, it is notoriously difficult car in real life. The Ridox tune makes it more manageable, but the key to driving it successfully is practice. Lots of it.
 
What do you mean by "over driving"? This is a racing game, and it's AI can drive just as fast as you, without accessories and without error, they're perfect.

I've since bought other racing cars and it's clear that they did something to MR. The worst e ample yet is the Ferrari F40, which makes the GT2 look like a cake walk. That car is truly un drivable for me, any tuning advice?


The AI is anything but perfect, otherwise how is it that I can beat them driving an entire race backwards, or with a car that has half the power, twice the weight and 3 grades of tyre lower?

The key to driving MR cars is not to turn/rotate the car and modulate it's grip with the steering wheel, but with the accelerator and brake. Also, they react worse than other drivetrains to sudden and heavy inputs of both the steering wheel and peddles. Be smooth with the inputs rather than 0-100% stabs on the peddles, pretend you are walking across a lake with a thin sheet of ice of something. Show an MR car some TLC and it'll show you the podium in return.

Clicking this sentence will take you to some Ferrari F40 tunes.
 
Another thing with some MR cars is they can seem like they're going slow because it feels stable, but really it's going faster through the corner than you think. Case in point with my Saleen in some S class races. It felt slower in the corners, but it was passing most other cars in the corners. Sometimes just a little perspective change.
 
What do you mean by "over driving"? This is a racing game, and it's AI can drive just as fast as you, without accessories and without error, they're perfect.

I've since bought other racing cars and it's clear that they did something to MR. The worst e ample yet is the Ferrari F40, which makes the GT2 look like a cake walk. That car is truly un drivable for me, any tuning advice?

@ALB123 explained over driving perfectly so I won't bother repeating it and as already said, if you think the AI is perfect and can drive as fast as you and without error, you need to practice a bit more as really, they're nothing more than rolling road blocks in the career mode. They get turned up to 11 in some of the seasonal's but they're in no way comparable to career mode.

The F40 in stock trim is my favourite car in the whole game and I usually steer it looking through the side windows. An epic car...once you get the hang of it. Tuning actually takes the edge off it for me (even though I put in quicker times) so I always keep the stock car to play with. I still agree with you on the the GT2 though. I despise that car.

Put some time into the MR's to get the hang of them. Once you "click" with them, you'll realize they're the daddy for cornering fun when it comes to drive trains.
 
Here are two laps, one in a Stratos and the other in a MP4-12C. Both on Comfort Soft tires, no aids of any kind. Also, I'm using a DS3 controller. It takes some serious tip-toeing and luck to make it through each corner. Watch my steering and how I'm using the gas and brake in the corners. MR is not for people who want an easy time on the racetrack. For those people, there is FF and especially 4WD.


 
Most MR cars are OK, but a few are clearly broken (Diablo GT2 and R8 LMS comes to mind) with the way they just snap on you in the middle of low speed corners. It doesn't have anything to do with the way you're driving, because no car should spin just like that driving on constant throttle and steering at 40km/h, especially purpose built race cars with slicks.
 
unfortunately yes i'm a ds3 user :(
Well I'll tell you this much. If you switch to a wheel you can't look around the way you were no analog control sticks (that I am aware of) on any wheel just digital D pad to use for looking.
But no matter if you're ona DS3 or wheel that was dang fine driving in the rain at the ring. I can't drive at those speeds in the dry in that car there :lol:
 
To anyone having trouble I'd still recommend my tuning tip... I noticed the f40 got brought up so I checked. Springs, dampners and ARBs maxed on the front, minimum on the rear with a rear toe of 1.00 makes it virtually fool proof... although it will under steer.

I made a tune from there that I easily beat on with the ds3, but you can still corner pretty aggressively . Could someone try it out to let me know how it feels?

550pp on SS tires

Height: 55/77
Springs: 13.00/11.22
Dampner comp: 8/1
Dampner next: 9/1
ARBs: 1/1
Camber: 0/0
Toe: 0/.95 ***
Diff: 15/22/5

***small changes in toe made a big difference. .90 corners harder but the rear wants to break loose on accel. 1.00 can cause the front to plow under steer at odd times.
 
MR's are faster and better cars yes. This doesn't mean they're easier to drive. Once you figure out how to drive them (Takes a while I admit.) they're unstoppable. Before I got a steering wheel setup for the PS3 I couldn't drive MR's for anything.
 
well the only problem is when gt bugs appears and just make more difficult to control those cars.
Nürburgring Nordschleife.jpg
Nürburgring Nordschleife_3.jpg
Nürburgring Nordschleife_1.jpg
Nürburgring Nordschleife_2.jpg

some examples in video
go to 0:46

and here at 1:26

those pics was yesterday when i was fixing some issues of the setup and the config does no affect to prevent that i try 2 completely different setups and both have the same problem, i have this issue on alot of cars but with the f40 the 80-90% of runs can appear this bug.
is annoying, on those videos online i was trying to do a hot lap and then bang kicked off with gt bugs :D
 
This has been my qualm since the patches that affected the game physics. Because of that, I'm less inclined to drive my Honda NSX-R and Ruf RGT. The adjustment in physics ruined those cars for me :(
 
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