* * * GT6 QUICK TUNE * * * TUNISMO APP NOW AVAILABLE FOR iOS!

So are you saying that the GT86 has an understeer or oversteer problem? If oversteer, & you can't adjust the camber, you're stuck. only adjusting the f&r springs would help that; or the balance settings. If understeer, you don't want any camber. try increasing the LSD Strength or again the balance settings.
Understeer. It drives like a FF car in the turns after applying several doses of understeer tuning in hopes of adding some grip. It is pretty clear the front tires just don't bite, instead sliding and pushing regardless of steering input.
In real life a situation like this would be quickly resolved with a tick or two of Camber. In game, like what I've seen with the Camaro RM, .5 Front Camber would help it tremendously.
 
I'd agree with everything you said. I try to only use camber as a last resort, but before putting a better gripping tire on the rear & after I'd adjusting everything else. otherwise, you might as well use ASM or TC.
 
I would only recommend using it as a last-ditch method after all other options have failed.
In other words, for example, if I've adjusted enter/exit balance to -3 each, then I would go to increasing the camber to tame oversteer? & the same for understeer & LSD strength increase, except it would be a +3 each? (I do realize that LSD increase doesn't always help with understeer in all cases). this would only be after I've also decreased camber or zeroed it out completely?
 
12471897254_dabcf00788_c.jpg


Light Car Company Rocket '07
- 100,000 (Prize Car: 0)

Oil Change - 250
Tires: Sports Soft - 9,250
Height-Adjustable, Fully Customizable Suspension - 18,000
Racing Brakes - 7,000
Fully Customizable Dog-Clutch Transmission - 18,500
Twin-Plate Clutch Kit - 3,100
Fully Customizable Mechanical Limited Slip Differential - 7,200
Sports Computer - 1,750
Intake Tuning - 4,450
Semi-Racing Exhaust - 7,250
Isometric Exhaust Manifold - 3,100
Catalytic Converter: Sports - 1,250

Total Investment - 181,100 (Prize Car: 81,100)


PP: 600
224 HP @ 12100 RPM
112 LB-FT @ 9600 RPM
390 KG
1.74 KG/HP
Weight Distribution: 45/55


Quick Tune Settings (v4.1):

Suspension Level: 2
Corner Entry Balance: 0
Corner Exit Balance: 0
Base Camber Angle: 0.0
LSD Strength: 2
Spread: 100.0%
Scale: 100.0%


Ride Height: 92 / 92
Spring Rate: 3.20 / 4.63
Dampers (Compression): 6 / 6
Dampers (Extension): 5 / 7
Anti-Roll Bars: 4 / 2
Camber Angle: 0.0 / 0.0
Toe Angle: 0.04 / 0.36
Brake Balance: 6 / 4


Transmission Instructions:

Set Final Gear to 6.500
Set Max Speed to 174 MPH (280 KPH)

1st Gear: 2.397
2nd Gear: 1.657
3rd Gear: 1.258
4th Gear: 1.000
5th Gear: 0.824
Final Gear: 5.060


Initial Torque: - / 13
Acceleration Sensitivity: - / 24
Braking Sensitivity: - / 18


ABS 1, all other aids off.


I'm sure by now you've all discovered what a blast this little car is, so I won't blather on about it. Get ready to demolish some 600 PP events with this real life Mighty Mouse.
 
Last edited:
In other words, for example, if I've adjusted enter/exit balance to -3 each, then I would go to increasing the camber to tame oversteer? & the same for understeer & LSD strength increase, except it would be a +3 each? (I do realize that LSD increase doesn't always help with understeer in all cases). this would only be after I've also decreased camber or zeroed it out completely?

More or less, but I think you're a little backwards on the LSD part. Higher LSD strength should increase understeer, not decrease it.
 
93768-c13a68f1bff175b6e78c9060a1a5c2e6.jpg

Here's a pic showing what the program is doing...the areas with red numbers are the only ones affected by this.
 

Attachments

  • DSC00408.JPG
    DSC00408.JPG
    327.2 KB · Views: 21
Thanks. The numbers are valid, so I have no idea why they're turning red. Must be some sort of incompatibility with your spreadsheet software. Just go ahead and use those numbers.
 
Thanks. The numbers are valid, so I have no idea why they're turning red. Must be some sort of incompatibility with your spreadsheet software. Just go ahead and use those numbers.

I will go ahead and give it a shot...just wanted to be sure if the numbers were valid or not. The pic doesn't show all of the red numbers though. However, those areas can be disregarded since I haven't messed with any cars with applicable torque balance or downforce yet, but I do have a few AWD cars in my garage, as well as the Lotus Elise Race Car '96 - I haven't even touched that one yet. Also, I noticed that the recommended gear ratios are out of my current car's range. Is it a matter of adjusting the top speed slider so that I get into the needed range, and then fine-tune each ratio? What do I do with the final gear?
 
Last edited:
Hi there!
Using QT for quite a while now and it's a really neat piece of art you did there, thank you! I am quite not sure about this whole tuning stuff, and just as I messed up my tunes completely, I just stumbled over QT and my whole problems were solved :)

Now, I have a suggestion: would it be very demanding if I would ask you to include a option to choose between (hp) and (kw) like you did with the torque measurement? In the games distributed in Europe (or Germany in my case) the car power information is given in (kw), so I always have to calculate the car power manually to match in (hp)... Annoying! ^^

So the conversion factor is 1kw=1,36hp

Albeit I am not sure if the game uses (bhp), which should be an other calculation factor...

Either way: it would be great :)
 
Last edited:
I think you're a little backwards on the LSD part. Higher LSD strength should increase understeer, not decrease it.
Yeah, I'm confused... I thought (probably from GT5 experience) that increasing initial acceleration would eventually cause a FR car to spin out more easily? & that increasing deceleration would cause a FR car backend to eventually spin out coming into a corner? I was relating this to the entry/exit balance theory on the GT6 4.1 spreadsheet; that if you are spinning out on coming into a corner, you'd decrease the entry balance, etc.????

I hope that this doesn't come across as a challenging attitude? That's certainly not my intention. I am just interested in learning! Thanks for your patience!!!
 
Hi there!
Using QT for quite a while now and it's a really neat piece of art you did there, thank you! I am quite not sure about this whole tuning stuff, and just as I messed up my tunes completely, I just stumbled over QT and my whole problems were solved :)

:cheers:

Now, I have a suggestion: would it be very demanding if I would ask you to include a option to choose between (hp) and (kw) like you did with the torque measurement? In the games distributed in Europe (or Germany in my case) the car power information is given in (kw), so I always have to calculate the car power manually to match in (hp)... Annoying! ^^

So the conversion factor is 1kw=1,36hp

Albeit I am not sure if the game uses (bhp), which should be an other calculation factor...

Either way: it would be great :)

I'm surprised no one has mentioned this before. I had just assumed you guys used metric horsepower (PS), which is close enough to mechanical horsepower (HP) that no conversion is really necessary. Shouldn't be too hard to execute, I'll be sure to work it into v4.2, I just don't know when that will be.
 
Yeah, I'm confused... I thought (probably from GT5 experience) that increasing initial acceleration would eventually cause a FR car to spin out more easily? & that increasing deceleration would cause a FR car backend to eventually spin out coming into a corner? I was relating this to the entry/exit balance theory on the GT6 4.1 spreadsheet; that if you are spinning out on coming into a corner, you'd decrease the entry balance, etc.????

I hope that this doesn't come across as a challenging attitude? That's certainly not my intention. I am just interested in learning! Thanks for your patience!!!

I can't recall ever witnessing corner entry oversteer due to having too high a decel setting. I'm not saying it's impossible, just that I've never seen it with my tunes and with my driving style. As best as I can tell, the higher the decel setting, the harder it is for the car to turn in. Corner exit oversteer from a high accel setting is a whole 'nother ballgame, though.
 
12494757984_f32dd2032d_c.jpg


Mazda RX7 Touring Car - 220,000

Oil Change - 250
Tires: Racing Hard - 0
Carbon Drive Shaft - 4,600
Engine: Stage 2 - 20,500

Total Investment - 245,350


PP: 590
534 HP @ 7500 RPM
409 LB-FT @ 4500 RPM
975 KG
1.82 KG/HP
Weight Distribution: 50/50


Quick Tune Settings (v4.1):

Suspension Level: 3
Corner Entry Balance: 0
Corner Exit Balance: 0
Base Camber Angle: 0.0
LSD Strength: 3
Spread: 100.0%
Scale: 100.0%


Ride Height: 73 / 73
Spring Rate: 14.26 / 15.27
Dampers (Compression): 7 / 7
Dampers (Extension): 7 / 7
Anti-Roll Bars: 4 / 4
Camber Angle: 0.0 / 0.0
Toe Angle: -0.04 / 0.36
Brake Balance: 5 / 5


Transmission Instructions:

Set Final Gear to 4.448
Set Max Speed to 174 MPH (280 KPH)

1st Gear: 3.160
2nd Gear: 2.154
3rd Gear: 1.609
4th Gear: 1.251
5th Gear: 1.000
6th Gear: 0.819
Final Gear: 4.310


Initial Torque: - / 15
Acceleration Sensitivity: - / 33
Braking Sensitivity: - / 19


Downforce: 350 / 600


ABS 1, all other aids off.


The basic setup for this tune was actually created by suprams1, but I'm posting it anyway because I really dig it. Normally I wouldn't use a 3-0-0-0.0-3 setup for this type of car, but it seems to work well pretty damn well, which just goes to show what I know. :lol:
 
I can't recall ever witnessing corner entry oversteer due to having too high a decel setting. I'm not saying it's impossible, just that I've never seen it with my tunes and with my driving style. As best as I can tell, the higher the decel setting, the harder it is for the car to turn in. Corner exit oversteer from a high accel setting is a whole 'nother ballgame, though.
You know how when you come to a good corner and let off the throttle and just glide right around it? That doesn't have anything to do with the deceleration/braking sensitivity setting on LSD? I thought that it did? So, deceleration has nothing to do with letting off the throttle? Maybe that's why they label it "Braking Sensitivity" in GT6 instead of Deceleration as they did in GT5?
 
Question about Ride Heights...
Keep in mind, I admit to knowing very little about tuning. In fact most of what I've learned about tuning in GT6 has come from this QuickTune.

I notice that most every car I input produces a tune with a Front Ride Height taller than the rear. Is this accurate?

For example, the BMW 07 Concept 1 Series. I've tuned it to 500pp with Comfort Soft tires:

376hp
342 tq
1300kg
50/50

Suspension Level 2
Entry 2
Exit 2
Camber .2
LSD 2

This produces:
Front Ride Height 106
Rear Ride Height 91


I never questioned it with any other car until I got to this one and read in the GT Tuning area lowering the Front produces Oversteer, which is what I desire for this car. So, I flipped the Ride Height values and the car handles much more true to QT now. It seems the values are flipped for Corner Entry Balance and Corner Exit Balance with regard to Ride Heights. Entering negative Entry and Exit values produces Ride Height values you'd expect; lower in front, higher in rear.

Here's the quote on the definition of the values:
Entering a positive number results in more oversteer and/or less understeer, while entering a negative number results in more understeer and/or less oversteer.
 
Last edited:
You know how when you come to a good corner and let off the throttle and just glide right around it? That doesn't have anything to do with the deceleration/braking sensitivity setting on LSD? I thought that it did? So, deceleration has nothing to do with letting off the throttle? Maybe that's why they label it "Braking Sensitivity" in GT6 instead of Deceleration as they did in GT5?
This is a good question, because I don't really know how hard you need to be decelerating for the LSD to transition from the initial torque setting to the deceleration setting. It may be possible that there's enough engine braking in first gear to trigger it, but not in sixth gear, for example. I also don't know if it's an instantaneous transition, or if there's a smooth "ramp up" instead. So, in summary, I don't have a damn clue.
 
This is a good question, because I don't really know how hard you need to be decelerating for the LSD to transition from the initial torque setting to the deceleration setting. It may be possible that there's enough engine braking in first gear to trigger it, but not in sixth gear, for example. I also don't know if it's an instantaneous transition, or if there's a smooth "ramp up" instead. So, in summary, I don't have a damn clue.
Thanks for your response! I'm learning more all the time & trying to understand how this all works. But, you were right about increased LSD inducing understeer! I started out increasing camber after reducing entry/exit balance to -3 in order to tame oversteer. Now I'm playing around with increasing the LSD settings instead and it's working pretty good so far!
 
12629058474_4b90fb63be_c.jpg


Honda NSX Type R '02 - 119,570

Oil Change - 250
Improve Body Rigidity - 22,500
Tires: Sports Soft - 9,750
Height-Adjustable, Fully Customizable Suspension - 19,000
Racing Brakes - 8,500
Fully Customizable Dog-Clutch Transmission - 19,500
Twin-Plate Clutch Kit - 3,350
Fully Customizable Mechanical Limited Slip Differential - 7,350
Engine: Stage 1 - 4,750
Sports Computer - 2,000
Intake Tuning - 4,800
Semi-Racing Exhaust - 7,500
Isometric Exhaust Manifold - 3,350
Catalytic Converter: Sports - 1,750
Weight Reduction: Stage 1 - 4,800

Total Investment - 238,720


PP: 528
420 HP @ 7700 RPM
311 LB-FT @ 6200 RPM
1155 KG
2.75 KG/HP
Weight Distribution: 46/54


Quick Tune Settings (v4.1):

Suspension Level: 3
Corner Entry Balance: 0
Corner Exit Balance: -1
Base Camber Angle: 0.0
LSD Strength: 2
Spread: 100.0%
Scale: 100.0%


Ride Height: 91 / 94
Spring Rate: 9.11 / 12.24
Dampers (Compression): 7 / 7
Dampers (Extension): 6 / 8
Anti-Roll Bars: 5 / 3
Camber Angle: 0.0 / 0.0
Toe Angle: 0.02 / 0.38
Brake Balance: 6 / 4


Transmission Instructions:

Set Final Gear to 4.501
Set Max Speed to 186 MPH (300 KPH)

1st Gear: 3.233
2nd Gear: 2.193
3rd Gear: 1.629
4th Gear: 1.259
5th Gear: 1.000
6th Gear: 0.812
Final Gear: 3.750


Initial Torque: - / 13
Acceleration Sensitivity: - / 24
Braking Sensitivity: - / 17


ABS 1, all other aids off.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for all your great work! Your spreadsheet makes a huge difference in helping a novice like me get started tuning. It's also cool to see how the settings change as you add more stable corner entry etc so you can not only feel the changes you can see what settings do what.
 
12668319534_806a5fcd5a_c.jpg


Toyota 2000GT '67 - 160,000

Oil Change - 250
Tires: Sports Soft - 10,000
Height-Adjustable, Fully Customizable Suspension - 20,000
Racing Brakes - 10,000
Fully Customizable Dog-Clutch Transmission - 20,000
Twin-Plate Clutch Kit - 3,500
Carbon Drive Shaft - 4,500
Fully Customizable Mechanical Limited Slip Differential - 7,500
Engine: Stage 1 - 5,000
Sports Computer - 2,000
Intake Tuning - 5,000
Semi-Racing Exhaust - 7,500
Isometric Exhaust Manifold - 3,500
Catalytic Converter: Sports - 2,000
Weight Reduction: Stage 1 - 5,000

Total Investment - 265,750


PP: 435
238 HP @ 7500 RPM
183 LB-FT @ 5700 RPM
1041 KG
4.37 KG/HP
Weight Distribution: 54/46


Quick Tune Settings (v4.1):

Suspension Level: 2
Corner Entry Balance: 0
Corner Exit Balance: 0
Base Camber Angle: 0.0
LSD Strength: 1
Spread: 100.0%
Scale: 100.0%


Ride Height: 104 / 104
Spring Rate: 8.35 / 7.41
Dampers (Compression): 6 / 6
Dampers (Extension): 6 / 6
Anti-Roll Bars: 3 / 3
Camber Angle: 0.0 / 0.0
Toe Angle: -0.08 / 0.16
Brake Balance: 5 / 5


Transmission Instructions:

Set Final Gear to 4.572
Set Max Speed to 168 MPH (270 KPH)

1st Gear: 2.794
2nd Gear: 1.844
3rd Gear: 1.331
4th Gear: 1.000
5th Gear: 0.773
Final Gear: 3.900


Initial Torque: - / 6
Acceleration Sensitivity: - / 15
Braking Sensitivity: - / 7


ABS 1, all other aids off.
 
Last edited:
Hi.

I've been using 4.1 and it's working really well for me, here's how I've used it so far on FR cars.

Note:

Traction Control: 1
Skid Recovery: Off
ABS: 1
  1. Enter the car info and set the car up with data from Quick Tune.
  2. Reduce LSD Accel by 50%.
  3. Use the Flip trick on the transmission.
  4. Go to the track and fine tune with Corner Entry/Exit. (May drop LSD Accel by one or two more points).
Job done and off to the races with a stable and predictable car. If I overdrive the car, (cock up corner entry or exit), I find I can recover the mistake and carry on racing and not spin out of control or go off.

Looking forward to using it on other car types.

Cheers JTF
 
Good stuff, thanks! Just curious, what's your reason for using the flip trick instead of the gear ratio calculator? Is it just easier and less time consuming, or do you think you get better results that way?
 
I'm fighting two kids with an xbox 360 and a copy of minecraft so I like to get the tuning done quick and spend the little time I get on racing. I do plan to us the gear calculator but just not had the time yet.

Cheer JTF
 
Here's a beta version of v4.2 for you guys. The primary difference is the addition of optional power measurements similar to the existing torque measurement option. You can now choose between mechanical horsepower (HP), kilowatts (KW) or metric horsepower (PS). Let me know if you guys get an "Err:522" or any other error message in the gear ratio fields when selecting KW or PS. I think I've fixed the bug, but you never know...


http://www.mediafire.com/download/qrndw7qxi2i42n8/GT6QUICKTUNE-v4.2.xls


 
Hi Oppositelock ... Great work you're doing ... i've seen Quick Time and never thought to try it until now ... i've always tuned my own cars (rudimentary and crudely in almost all cases ... lol) which i found a lot easier in GT5 .. but in GT6 i've really struggled with some - especially the track cars ... now i'm up and running and having fun with the game at last!

Slowly working through my fleet of 500PP racers (FWD, RWD & AWD's) to start with and so far every one has come out good - especially as i can fine tune with "Corner Entry and Corner Exit" plus define a hard or soft suspension ... it's cut down my "testing" hours and given me more racing time!! ... For example i've found the Scirocco R '10 to be a wallowing pig up 'till now (even with several online tunes) but with an hard'ish suspension Quick tune it's finally come alive without further tweaks needed.

Keep up the good work :cheers:

PS .. the NSX '02 looks good in white and a great tune ... my favorite car in GT5 & GT6 👍
 
Thanks for the feedback! Glad it's working well for you. The NSX is one of my favorites, too. 👍


How's v4.2 working out for everyone? Any issues?
 

Latest Posts

Back