GT6 Tuning Guide 1.15

Nice to see your guide updated and in it's own thread. 👍

The original guide in your garage was a huge help to me and many others starting our GT6 adventures. I have learned so much from it and your problem solving guide, it's still my first stop whenever I run into any issues while tuning. Very informative and well explained.

So a huge Thank You!:bowdown:and Congrats on the Sticky!:cheers:
 
Great OP!! 👍

I do have one question though, regarding this part:
Motor City Hami
Oil Change– Are you tuning a short term car or a long term car? For a short term car, do not perform an oil change. It robs power at the same PP level. Take any car and note the stock PP and HP levels (example: Scirocco R ‘10 at 438PP/252HP). Next perform an oil change and note the new PP/HP levels (Scirocco @ 445PP/265HP). Finally, use the power limiter to re-establish the car’s original PP level (Scirocco needs 94.5 power limiter to equal 438PP). The new HP rating for the Scirocco is now 250, a 2hp drop from stock (or 0.8% lower horsepower). I have tested this on many cars in GT6 and the average drop is a 1% horsepower loss.
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Just because peak bhp output is reduced from 252 to 250 @ 438 PP, it might not show that the car is slower, right?
When using the powerlimiter, the powerband widens more the more you turn down the limiter IIRC.
So even though peak bhp is lower at the same pp post oil change, acceleration might as well be stronger or equal due to the wider powerband?
 
Denilson
Great OP!! 👍

I do have one question though, regarding this part:


Just because peak bhp output is reduced from 252 to 250 @ 438 PP, it might not show that the car is slower, right?
When using the powerlimiter, the powerband widens more the more you turn down the limiter IIRC.
So even though peak bhp is lower at the same pp post oil change, acceleration might as well be stronger or equal due to the wider powerband?
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Actually, I believe the power band gets narrower through use of the power limiter. The big gain though is in the amount of torque gained after the oil change. There are definite advantages there for some cars and for certain tracks. I'm still trying to figure out if that advantage is a consistent advantage or if it is hit and miss. In other words, should certain cars always get the oil change and other cars never, or is a blanket statement like @Motor City Hami suggested a better approach?

Just to clarify, I am not saying Hami is wrong with his statement. More often than not he is bang on correct. I'm only asking my question because the focus has been on HP, while torque hasn't been discussed. I'm looking for any testing and analysis that has been done on that (comparing torque gained vs. HP lost)
 
On the point raised by @Denilson, the use of the power limiter does increase the power band. The flattened power curve shows maximum bhp across a wider range of rpm.

Whether or not the tuner is able to take full advantage will depend on the gearing. Shift points may need to be manipulated to tap into the extra torque otherwise the potential benefit could be lost.

The advantages/disadvantages of torque gained v hp lost, will vary from track to track as @F1Racer68 says and also depending on tactics and where the best overtaking opportunities lie if you are racing.

I've been setting up for a PP limited race on Nurb24 tonight and testing the difference between 369bhp with 39kgfm and 360bhp and 43kgfm. The overall lap times were on a par but I found the higher bhp gave me gains over half a second on the long straights while the higher torque allowed me to accelerate faster away from the corners.

It's torture for the indecisive.
 
Torque and power are the same thing.
Torque goes up = power goes up (@ the same rpm)

However, peak bhp tells us very little.
If the grearbox allow X-gear to pull from 4000-6000 rpm, we'd like to know the average bhp output in that range.

I.e
Two identical cars with identical gearboxes and gearing, but different peak bhp outputs.

Car A (peak bhp: 250)
4000-6000 rpm = average output: 200 bhp

Car B (peak bhp: 270)
4000-6000 rpm = average output: 190 bhp

In the above example, Car A would be the faster accelerator despite its lower peak bhp number.

This is an example where I've removed all other aspects important for a cars acceleration and top speed. 👍 ;)
 
brysonwong
Just a short question,

Would your transmission tune be able to be used on my drift build?
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That would depend upon how much power you have. I am not a drifter. I tune for road racing so the objectives are different. By moving the final gear numbers higher, all the way right and the top speed slider all the way left, this will provide the tallest, least torque transmission in 2nd and 3rd gears. Very useful for high hp cars and harder tires for road racing. You may want to try starting by reset default, set final gear to 4.000, max speed all the way left. This would provide more torque in 2nd and 3rd gears resulting in a car that is easier to break loose.
 
brysonwong
Just a short question,

Would your transmission tune be able to be used on my drift build?
Click to expand...
I don't know as much about race trannies as Hami (sorry to interject) but I do know drifting.
The thing with drift transmissions is that you want 2nd/3rd/4th to be as long/wide as possible, unlike race gearing you are not looking to stay on the power band as much due to the low grip tyres and the fact that once traction is broken the wheels require much less force to keep them spinning.
By making the gears long they will cover a larger speed range which means you have greater control over the wheel speed and mean you can string a greater variety of corners together without having to regain traction and shift gear in between. 👍
 
For condition one 1 that talks about weight Transfer. I tighten the front anti roll bar the rear on my NSX since the amount of downforce plays mind games with you.

Does this work as well?

I've kept the extension a little slower in return back at the cost of what you explain whic works very well in exiting corner. I do have a slight under steer problem due to front downforce.I"m thinking of adding weight to the rear but I am still contemplating.


Any advice?
 
Hey mate whats your thoughts on installing racing brakes on road car tunes? Does it have any benefits or downfalls. Cheers in advance!
 
Mr Miyagi
Hey mate whats your thoughts on installing racing brakes on road car tunes? Does it have any benefits or downfalls. Cheers in advance!
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It depends upon which tires you are using and the weight/pp of the car. A light weight car on comfort soft tires does not really need them. What I mean is that they don't seem to provide any short stopping distance, just easier lock up so the need for lower brake balance numbers. On the other hand, as long as you still have room to lower brake balance lockup, they do not hurt performance. I have been adding them to everything and running lower BB numbers just so that I can paint them for the photos.
 
I'm sorry I meant to say, tighten the front anti roll bar than the rear since the NSX downforce plays mindgames ( meaning it manipulates and has you thinking that you when entering corners fast as usual, exiting corners give last minute understeer).


Iphone....sigh


Also. I did raise ride height to cut the high tendency of oversteer. But I've tried a different alternative by lowering the ride height and it still did the same but without stability around corners.
Motor City Hami
This sentence tripped me up a little. A higher number on ARB did what?
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Motor City Hami
Wings on street cars – I do not add wings to my street car builds. It adds more rear grip and on most cars in the GT series I am trying to do the opposite, gain front grip. In GT5 it also cost PP to add wings so that just robs from the ability to drop weight and add power. Currently in GT6, downforce does not add to PP. Only add if you need more rear grip.
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Related to the above, I have a question about adding Front Splitters (aka Aero Kits, which is what I believe they're called in-game); are they purely cosmetic or do they have an affect on front downforce?

The ones I have fitted so far do not seem to be adjustable in the Car Settings menu.
 
Real quick, let me take the time to thank you MC for this fine guide. Very easy to remember, which has been a problem for me when reading guides and then trying to put them to use. So thanks for sharing brother and keep it coming from Rock City! :cheers:

Merry Christmas!!!!!!
 
I have slowly found that the best way to learn to tune is to find a guide such as this and work though it, and then go and learn from experience. Another really good way to tune a car for yourself is to buy the car and start racing, and tune it with the money that it wins, so you learn the car and what it doe step by step. My favorite cars were tuned in this way. Unfortunately, it takes a lot of time to race, buy, setup, and then repeat.

Anyway, this is a very detailed and helpful guide.

Quick question: Do you, Motor City Hami, prefer torque or horsepower? (It has always been something that I have debated about with friends)
 
I just got back into tuning after spending time racing mostly one-make non-tuning events in a weekly online series (occasional tuning weeks, but definitely a minority) and these guides will (and currently are) help me when I get stuck in my own methods.

I read MCH guides a lot in the GT5 days...in fact, they were what gave me the confidence to finally turn off SRF back in the day. :cool:

Merry Christmas
 
Hey i was just glancing through to see what you updated and I think your front toe summary might be backwards. Right now it reads that positive front toe increases turn in and negative front toe increases exit grip. I would have quoted it but I'm on my phone and that's a lot of deleting :)
 
ImToLegitToQuit
Hey i was just glancing through to see what you updated and I think your front toe summary might be backwards. Right now it reads that positive front toe increases turn in and negative front toe increases exit grip. I would have quoted it but I'm on my phone and that's a lot of deleting :)
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I have written it the way I experienced it in game testing. It does not work the same as in the real world.
 
ImToLegitToQuit
Good enough. I was just double checking. It's the oposite of the in game explanation but we all know to take those with a grain/pound of salt ;)
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And who knows if I am really right or not. I just wrote up what has worked for me. Front toe in doesn't seem to be very useful. Front toe out seems to provide me with more grip from mid-corner through exit.

I just read @DolHaus guide and he seemed to experience something different. That is the problem with an unclear physics model. It sure would be nice if the game reacted as the in-game manual describes.
 
Motor City Hami
And who knows if I am really right or not. I just wrote up what has worked for me. Front toe in doesn't seem to be very useful. Front toe out seems to provide me with more grip from mid-corner through exit.

I just read @DolHaus guide and he seemed to experience something different. That is the problem with an unclear physics model. It sure would be nice if the game reacted as the in-game manual describes.
Click to expand...
I completely agree because that's what novice tuners go by not knowing any better. I've felt that toe out digs in better at the beginning of a turn but does have less grip on exit when you get past -.10. I have used positive toe on some unruly mid and rear engined cars but it's very rare and never above .20
 
ImToLegitToQuit
I completely agree because that's what novice tuners go by not knowing any better. I've felt that toe out digs in better at the beginning of a turn but does have less grip on exit when you get past -.10. I have used positive toe on some unruly mid and rear engined cars but it's very rare and never above .20
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Did you see the toe angles that I used in the Ford Focus Challenge? -0.75 front and -0.95 rear. Now that is crazy high.
 
Motor City Hami
Did you see the toe angles that I used in the Ford Focus Challenge? -0.75 front and -0.95 rear. Now that is crazy high.
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You do like a good bit of Toe on your tunes :lol:

My general experience is as it says in my guide but I have also experienced cars that responded counter to this, my advice would always be to try both ends of the scale and see what happens.
Toe is more complicated than it first appears, always hard to give a concise response in regards to exactly the effects it will have when applied in a certain way, there are always conflicting +/- points depending on a variety of factors. This said, its easy enough to experiment with from a practical point 👍
 
@Motor City Hami
Have you got any advice on making a car less 'snappy'?

I'm trying your 550pp NSX-R on RS and while it has a ton of grip when settled it seems to have big issues when I try to catch a slide.
 

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