GT6 Tuning Guide 1.15

No one cares or wants to see this. This is a private issue that has nothing to do with the OP.
So utilize the PM button, or start a private conversation.

No one cares if you make up, no one cares if you dont.
The only ones who DO care, have a PM button, how convenient.
We see action in this post and come here to see if anything was added to the OP, instead we get this?
I don't think we should have to sift through all this private crap just to find anything actually pertaining to the guide.
You all have the right to feel however you want to, just please don't force it on the community.
Thank you.


(Anyone reading what I wrote who is actually a good person, will agree and just move along.
A "Troll" on the other hand, can not. Because by nature, they need an audience.)
 
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Some people just can't move on, it's their nature. Some people talk about moving on from old arguments, some actually do it and never bring it up again.

arguecat.png
 
Getting back on topic, I have a tuning conundrum that I'd like to get some input on.

I am currently racing the Formula Gran Turismo in a series and am having considerable trouble with the front tyres. I have tried setups by @Motor City Hami, @praiano63 and @RyanRacer and all 3 of them burn up the outside front in low to medium speed corners. (for reference, I use a DS3)

I have tried the usually recommended fixes and shifted weight around, but the issue persists.

Does anyone have any particular advice they can give, or can direct me to a tune which isn't as hard on the front tyres?

Thanks in advance.
 
PJTierney
Getting back on topic, I have a tuning conundrum that I'd like to get some input on.

I am currently racing the Formula Gran Turismo in a series and am having considerable trouble with the front tyres. I have tried setups by @Motor City Hami, @praiano63 and @RyanRacer and all 3 of them burn up the outside front in low to medium speed corners. (for reference, I use a DS3)

I have tried the usually recommended fixes and shifted weight around, but the issue persists.

Does anyone have any particular advice they can give, or can direct me to a tune which isn't as hard on the front tyres?

Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
Are you killing the tyres on entry or exit?
 
Entry to mid-corner. They've cooled down by the time I'm on the exit and it's the rears that light up then, however that's an issue of throttle control (and LSD to a lesser extent).
 
PJTierney
Entry to mid-corner. They've cooled down by the time I'm on the exit and it's the rears that light up then, however that's an issue of throttle control (and LSD to a lesser extent).
Click to expand...
If its on entry then you are either transferring too much load onto the front axle during braking (stiffen front damper compression/springs) or too little load onto the front (soften front damper compression/springs).

It could also be that you are braking too late and too aggressively, try to get all your braking done in a straight line before you start turning in. Formula style cars don't respond well to aggressive driving, the trick is to be as smooth as possible 👍
 
DolHaus
If its on entry then you are either transferring too much load onto the front axle during braking (stiffen front damper compression/springs) or too little load onto the front (soften front damper compression/springs).
Click to expand...

And therein lies the conundrum. I'm either putting too much load on the front or not enough, and I'm not sure which it is. :)
 
PJTierney
And therein lies the conundrum. I'm either putting too much load on the front or not enough, and I'm not sure which it is. :)
Click to expand...
Try recording a best lap where the instance occurs and export the data to the Data Logger, in there you will be able to see whats going on with the ride height and maybe get a better idea 👍
It is very hard sometimes to see what the car is doing from bumper cam, without the sensation of movement its hard to tell how much a car is rolling around
 
PJTierney
Getting back on topic, I have a tuning conundrum that I'd like to get some input on.

I am currently racing the Formula Gran Turismo in a series and am having considerable trouble with the front tyres. I have tried setups by @Motor City Hami, @praiano63 and @RyanRacer and all 3 of them burn up the outside front in low to medium speed corners. (for reference, I use a DS3)

I have tried the usually recommended fixes and shifted weight around, but the issue persists.

Does anyone have any particular advice they can give, or can direct me to a tune which isn't as hard on the front tyres?

Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

That tune is for the FGT at full power. With the FGT series specs you can be far more aggressive with the setup, but really in order to be fast with it you kind of have to burn the outside tires. :(
 
Have you tried lowering rear downforce some?
I find that helps with cornering agility a bit, it might give you that middle ground you can't find between toomuch/toolittle weight changes.
 
PJTierney
Getting back on topic, I have a tuning conundrum that I'd like to get some input on.

I am currently racing the Formula Gran Turismo in a series and am having considerable trouble with the front tyres. I have tried setups by @Motor City Hami, @praiano63 and @RyanRacer and all 3 of them burn up the outside front in low to medium speed corners. (for reference, I use a DS3)

I have tried the usually recommended fixes and shifted weight around, but the issue persists.

Does anyone have any particular advice they can give, or can direct me to a tune which isn't as hard on the front tyres?

Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...


From my guide for red outside front tires conditions:

Glowing red front tires under braking
Options: Reduce rear shock extension (lower number) and/or reduce front shock compression (lower number). This should speed up the transfer of weight to the front wheels and provide more front grip under braking. This can be effective to shorten braking distances, up to the point of maximum front tire grip. A second option is to reduce front brake balance or increase rear brake balance. A third option is to reduce LSD decel.


Glowing red outside front tire in a medium to low speed corner
Options: Hypothesis is that the front tire is overloaded and past its maximum available grip. To fix this condition, test increasing front compression and increasing rear extension. A second option is to add ballast and move weight to the rear of the car.


Glowing red outside front tire in a medium to high speed corner
Options: Hypothesis is that the front tire does not have enough weight on it and it is just sliding across the pavement. To fix this condition, test decreasing front compression and decreasing rear extension. A second option is to add ballast and move weight to the front of the car.
 
PJTierney
Can you load up Online races in the Data Logger or would I have to try in Free Run?
Click to expand...
If it was race you can save and export to Motec i2 FR th data but the suspension data is missing there.
You can watch the replay from cockpit cam and get a deent idea of what the car is doing there. One trick I use is pause the game right as the problem starts and take a picture and examine the cars position. I haven't done this with and open wheel so not sure how effective that will be tho.
You could alway just do trial and error testing change only the front spring rate up or down and minitor what is happening as you make the changes. Start at 50% spring rate and then increase or decrease the rate and noteif it gets worse or better as you make the adjustments.
 
Ok so for my birthday gt6 gave me a 1983 Nissan Skyline 2000 HT Turbo RS (R30) I've searched for tunes but could not find any tunes so I decided to try and tune this myself I want to tune this for 500PP racing but having some trouble could some with suspension tuning... And how to go about it I read your information on tuning it MCH but I still have trouble... Is tuning suspension like a game of trial and error?
 
In regards to the oil change for vehicles in the game, is there a reason for the loss of HP? If I have missed something in this thread, I apologize in advance.

Dan.
 
Motor City Hami
Torque in GT6 intrigues me. If power limiting is fully allowed, adding all of the power parts available and using as much power limiting as possible will provide the most torque available. Yet, this does not seem to produce the fastest result. Why would using less power limiting produce a faster car? To me it seems that HP is favored more in the GT6 pp equation. I have not tested oil change, back to back against non-oil change, but on paper it changes the relationship between HP and torque just as power limiting does.

More testing on this subject would be useful. As soon as the rest of the FITT community reads this post, I am sure we will have some volunteers to put this to a test.
Click to expand...
It seems to me that the oil change gives us heavier oil. In real life, this would:
- lower the power slightly (more drag on the oil pump and any part moving through oil)
- increase the torque slightly (better seal on the piston rings at lower and middle revs)

This may be the reason for the "unbalanced" hp/pp ratio... the result of the oil change is a wider torque spread and lower peak torque at the same horsepower setting. This would mean the car is a little less sensitive to slightly less than perfect gear ratios and doesn't suffer as much of an acceleration penalty when short shifting.
 
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danlimski
In regards to the oil change for vehicles in the game, is there a reason for the loss of HP? If I have missed something in this thread, I apologize in advance.

Dan.
Click to expand...

Who knows? PD math?

The_Tullster
It seems to me that the oil change gives us heavier oil. In real life, this would:
Click to expand...
The_Tullster
- lower the power slightly (more drag on the oil pump and any part moving through oil)
- increase the torque slightly (better seal on the piston rings at lower and middle revs)

This may be the reason for the "unbalanced" hp/pp ratio... the result of the oil change is a wider torque spread and lower peak torque at the same horsepower setting. This would mean the car is a little less sensitive to slightly less than perfect gear ratios and doesn't suffer as much of an acceleration penalty when short shifting.
Click to expand...

How much horse power loss should one expect in the real world from heavier oil, really? I would not expect to see a noticeable loss in power and gain in torque. So I doubt that PD programmed for something that specific.
 
PP is based off average torque.

Different mods do different things to output. Exhaust, cat, ECU, and engine tuning all stretch the power curve to a higher RPM (and some increase torque slightly). Intake tuning, exhaust manifold, and oil change are increases in torque across the board. Forced induction alters the shape of the torque curve, with the high-RPM turbo usually being the most efficient in terms of power/PP.

The key to PP limited engine tuning is focusing on minimizing torque output outside of your useful rev range (which is dictated by gearing, and is ideally kept as narrow as possible) and making it rev as high as you can. Avoid oil changes like the plague, wear the motor out, and keep it that way. I guarantee as long as your gearing can keep it on boil, you'll find considerable straight-line gains for a given PP level. Power limiter is bad (although it can be useful on extremely peaky motors) as it takes away from what you want (torque around the area of peak horsepower) and does not take away from the areas of the power curve you'll never find yourself in.
 
I will have to share some data from the ford GT event testing I did. Low torque tunes can suffer badly.

Boosting torque = increase in horsepower at all RPM. Boosting horsepower by increasing RPM = increase in horsepower only at the end of each gear. If you race route X or nascar then sure, go horsepower, otherwise go for torque.

The tune I entered was a little too extreme torque tuned with supercharger, but it could match or outperform the other tunes until a reasonable speed (and could actually match all the tunes for lap time if you had the driving skill). It would lose 0.7 seconds per lap in high speed areas, but it had good cornering and ridiculous acceleration.

The retune I made right after the event uses the torque modifying power mods; Isometric Exhaust Manifold and Intake Tuning and heavy engine limiting yet it is barely down at all in top speed and more than makes up for it with acceleration at any speed other than super high speed (which of course means better acceleration out of any corner/bend).

If you exit a bend with higher speed with a tune, it will take ages before a higher HP tune of the same car with the same PP can match your speed at the same point on the track (if at all).

And I think you will find PP is based off max torque. It's why many dominant cars for PP limits have flat torque or nearly flat torque.
 
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MrGrado
I will have to share some data from the ford GT event testing I did. Low torque tunes can suffer badly.

Boosting torque = increase in horsepower at all RPM. Boosting horsepower by increasing RPM = increase in horsepower only at the end of each gear. If you race route X or nascar then sure, go horsepower, otherwise go for torque.

The tune I entered was a little too extreme torque tuned with supercharger, but it could match or outperform the other tunes until a reasonable speed (and could actually match all the tunes for lap time if you had the driving skill). It would lose 0.7 seconds per lap in high speed areas, but it had good cornering and ridiculous acceleration.

The retune I made right after the event uses the torque modifying power mods; Isometric Exhaust Manifold and Intake Tuning and heavy engine limiting yet it is barely down at all in top speed and more than makes up for it with acceleration at any speed other than super high speed (which of course means better acceleration out of any corner/bend).

If you exit a bend with higher speed with a tune, it will take ages before a higher HP tune of the same car with the same PP can match your speed at the same point on the track (if at all).

And I think you will find PP is based off max torque. It's why many dominant cars for PP limits have flat torque or nearly flat torque.
Click to expand...
Makes perfect sense given the fact that the horsepower math basically breaks down to work/time. Work being torque and time being rpm.
 
MrGrado
I will have to share some data from the ford GT event testing I did. Low torque tunes can suffer badly.
Click to expand...

In what regard? Sure, if you have a tendency to lug the motor coming out of corners because your gearing isn't right, it'll help to tune for twist. Otherwise... Nah.

MrGrado
Boosting torque = increase in horsepower at all RPM. Boosting horsepower by increasing RPM = increase in horsepower only at the end of each gear. If you race route X or nascar then sure, go horsepower, otherwise go for torque.
Click to expand...

Disagree. The only time low-end torque is remotely helpful on a racetrack is, um... When you're going slowly enough to be below the powerband. Which should be never or at least only when you've found a sand trap provided your gearing is spaced something resembling correctly. Power limiting should only be used in cases where the car is so extremely peaky in terms of power delivery that it cannot be geared to stay within the area of ~90%+ of peak power.

MrGrado
The tune I entered was a little too extreme torque tuned with supercharger, but it could match or outperform the other tunes until a reasonable speed (and could actually match all the tunes for lap time if you had the driving skill). It would lose 0.7 seconds per lap in high speed areas, but it had good cornering and ridiculous acceleration.
Click to expand...

So it was a good tune, other than the fact the drivetrain was awful and costing it 0.7s/lap.

MrGrado
The retune I made right after the event uses the torque modifying power mods; Isometric Exhaust Manifold and Intake Tuning and heavy engine limiting yet it is barely down at all in top speed and more than makes up for it with acceleration at any speed other than super high speed (which of course means better acceleration out of any corner/bend).
Click to expand...

I don't think acceleration works how you think it works. Average horsepower is always God.

MrGrado
If you exit a bend with higher speed with a tune, it will take ages before a higher HP tune of the same car with the same PP can match your speed at the same point on the track (if at all).
Click to expand...

Unless of course the low-torque version manages the same exit speed and happily walks past you. Which it will so long as it's actually set up correctly to use its advantage.

MrGrado
And I think you will find PP is based off max torque. It's why many dominant cars for PP limits have flat torque or nearly flat torque.
Click to expand...

Average torque, but okay, sure. Strong low-end hurts potential for peak power (by upping the average) for no potential benefit. The reason the PP dominant cars have flat or (ideally) top-end biased torque curves is basically what I've already said. Twice.
 
DSC_0069_zpsbyihh4gd.jpg

DSC_0067_zpsyknwo5s4.jpg


Honda S2000 both 450PP, both same weight, both same BHP, both same peak torque (as much as possible) 1 with far more torque lower in RPM range.

Clear evidence of PP not calculated on average torque.
Clear evidence of PP not calculated on average torque.
 
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I would like to see the return of the Tire Load indicator option, this feature gave me a lot of information in tuning. If you agree go to the "suggestion" part of the forum and like the suggestion.
 
Super M. Hami, j'ai beaucoup aimé votre manuel, très bien fait, mis à part la traduction de google qui fait souvent des contre sens :confused: dommageables à la compréhension du vocabulaire technique.:bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown: :D
 
OUPS in english : Great mister Hami, I loved a lot your textbook, very well made, set apart the translation of Google which often makes against harmful senses for the understanding of the technical vocabulary.:confused:
 

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