Gt7 daily races and advice needed

[flying-chick]

Hi racers 🙂

Finally I got some time on my hand, to try and work out my dilemma, and to try to get to grips with using the ps5, but Im still have some issue, and I could do with some advice please.


But first of all After much to learn, as I've only had my ps5 a few months now, but I've only had about 1 weeks worth of playing time, i finally worked out how to upload a video.

This one is the current daily race which is now on live today, brands hatch, Gt4 bop applied etc.

I'm using a controler in this demo, as I'm still having many issues with a wheel and pedals, after sending my Logitech pro back, and opting for a thrustmaster instead.

I got a 1 min 38.7, but my optimal time is 1 min 38.1 which I'm yet to get, which is only just half a second of the top 100, also if possible could someone one upload a faster time with a controler, as I still think my controller may be faulty, as I'm so use to equaling world records, when I was on Forza. My issue with the controller is sometimes the stiffness of the triggers changes, so I'm now having to use it with stiffness of. My friend say this can be normal, but I'm not so sure.



I've quickly now just moved into the b class league, and I'm starting to enjoy the races there a lot better,

But still I'm still very inconsistent with my wheel and pedals which I never use to be.

I'm needing some advice on my pedals firstly, I have no idea if there faulty at present, they are second hand and I've only had them 2 weeks after sending my Logitech G pro back, which was also hardly used. But the first issues is the race pedal raw values in green on pedal calibration software, which does not go up the same way as all the other raw values, is this normal ?

As on the clutch and the accelerator the raw values go all the way to a 100 percent along side the other indicator in sync etc.

I take my racing very seriously and as you can see from my picture upload I practice research,.do my homework, learn the track, as im sure most of my fellow racers would do,


Thanks in advance for any advice, all the best and happy new year ❤️.

 

[Famine]

My issue with the controller is sometimes the stiffness of the triggers changes, so I'm now having to use it with stiffness of. My friend say this can be normal, but I'm not so sure.

That's a standard feature of the DualSense controller. They're called "adaptive triggers" and they're designed to convey addition information in games that support them - such as ABS activation or wheelspin in GT7.

 

[flying-chick]

That's a standard feature of the DualSense controller. They're called "adaptive triggers" and they're designed to convey addition information in games that support them - such as ABS activation or wheelspin in GT7.

Hi, this is more or less what I've been told under normal circumstances, that this is how the controller works.

Besides this normal function you've mentioned something else is happening to my controller also where by my triggers just go loose and loose stiffness all together.

It also fluctuates, some times it can be the brake other times it's the accelerator.

I then reboot the ps5 fully charged the controller and it corrects it's self.

Other times it's been functioning normal, before I go into a daily race, as soon as an online race starts one of the triggers as gone loose, im then struggling to compete at this stage, so I then have to just see the race out, then reboot and it's ok, this is also happening when my controller is plugged in and fully charged.

 

[whiteusagi]

With your PS5 being only a couple months old you should still have the manufacturer's warranty available. You should send your controller in to be repaired/replaced, as the behavior you describe clearly sounds as though you're holding onto a defective unit.

 

[flying-chick]

With your PS5 being only a couple months old you should still have the manufacturer's warranty available. You should send your controller in to be repaired/replaced, as the behavior you describe clearly sounds as though you're holding onto a defective unit.

possibly or it's a glitch that happens sometimes at the start of an online race,

How ever I'm now starting to get just as fast with the stiffness off, I think I'll persevere a bit longer.

Before sending my controller back, or ps5, but these things niggle me, and play with my concentration.

I've only just noticed via watching YouTube videos that people are changing there fuel from lean to power and there break bias during race to be more at the back from the front, to try and do a full race without changing there tyres, I've never knew this feature.

I wonder now if I switched my fuel to power would i get quicker laps, I think one guy had his fuel set to power a long time, I'm not sure if he did it for the whole ten laps at brands hatch daily races with your fuel set to power, or whether you could,

I don't even know at this stage how he did it, or how I can do it perhaps someone could inform me 🙂

But I'm thinking is it set to balanced unless you change it to either lean or power and if you do change it does it stay on power for a qualifier lap ?. Or even does it make a difference to lap time, I'm assuming if you set it to power you would go faster but use more fuel ?

Or even the brake bias can you change that for a qualifier lap, as I'm thinking I could be easily posting a 1.37. which would then put me back where I want to be competing with the world record holders.

I'll be checking tomorrow if I can do this.

 

[whiteusagi]

possibly or it's a glitch that happens sometimes at the start of an online race,

It's not happened to me in the past, and judging by the lack of similar complaints from other users in this community regarding the controller haptics just going limp at race starts, I'm still going to say that if I were in your shoes I would send in my controller for repair/replacement as that is not expected behavior. But it's your warranty and your choice.

I've only just noticed via watching YouTube videos that people are changing there fuel from lean to power and there break bias during race to be more at the back from the front, to try and do a full race without changing there tyres, I've never knew this feature.

I wonder now if I switched my fuel to power would i get quicker laps, I think one guy had his fuel set to power a long time, I'm not sure if he did it for the whole ten laps at brands hatch daily races with your fuel set to power, or whether you could,

Yes, easily changed. If you have not manually configured your controls far beyond what is available by default then you can switch the multi-function display (MFD) using controller pad (left/right to swap between map, radar, weather, times, fuel, brake balance, etc., and up/down to adjust said function). Fuel is set to full power by default, and can be adjusted down by the player for fuel saving or other use cases, but only during scenarios where fuel usage is taken into consideration. As you will not run out of fuel in qualifying for the current daily races, you are automatically locked at full power usage, and as such are not being hindered unknowingly.

Or even the brake bias can you change that for a qualifier lap, as I'm thinking I could be easily posting a 1.37. which would then put me back where I want to be competing with the world record holders.

Brake balance can be adjusted for qualifying as long as the vehicle/settings allow for it, and even corner-to-corner should you choose to do so. I'm glad to see that you are very confident in your abilities, but with a current time that sits #1,737 in the world (still before the weekend grind) and 1.796 seconds slower than the current world record I imagine you may have a long road ahead of you.

 

[flying-chick]

It's not happened to me in the past, and judging by the lack of similar complaints from other users in this community regarding the controller haptics just going limp at race starts, I'm still going to say that if I were in your shoes I would send in my controller for repair/replacement as that is not expected behavior. But it's your warranty and your choice.

Yes, easily changed. If you have not manually configured your controls far beyond what is available by default then you can switch the multi-function display (MFD) using controller pad (left/right to swap between map, radar, weather, times, fuel, brake balance, etc., and up/down to adjust said function). Fuel is set to full power by default, and can be adjusted down by the player for fuel saving or other use cases, but only during scenarios where fuel usage is taken into consideration. As you will not run out of fuel in qualifying for the current daily races, you are automatically locked at full power usage, and as such are not being hindered unknowingly.

Brake balance can be adjusted for qualifying as long as the vehicle/settings allow for it, and even corner-to-corner should you choose to do so. I'm glad to see that you are very confident in your abilities, but with a current time that sits #1,737 in the world (still before the weekend grind) and 1.796 seconds slower than the current world record I imagine you may have a long road ahead of you.

Thanks 😊 perhaps I may need to send it back.


I'll be trying the brake bias during qualifying tomorrow in different corners, as of the moment I literally only have an hour each night for the next week to practice, not ideal but hopefully that should make me more determined. I can get that 1.7 gap down to one second , judging by by my optimal sectors on different laps, I've just not done so yet, but fingers crossed I will soon,

I hear from all these a class drivers online, that brands hatch is notorious difficult to master, but I feel perhaps the fastest laps are won on the first corner, if you build up the right speed before the first corner you'll always trail break that little bit quicker and have better momentum going into the next corner, I never hardly see any world record holders posting consecutive world record times, but I'm thinking perhaps they are changing there break bias before certain corners 😊 and on this track,

When I was on Forza nearly ever race was won or lost on the first corner, for instance on brands hatch before first the bend getting up to 113 mph just before you break makes the difference than just say 112 mph. Which really is only dependant on how well your trail breaking is on the last band driving into the home straight, as to whether you hit 113, before the first corner.

And there is one long trail just before it to. which requires pinpoint accuracy, which hardly everyone nails to perfection every time I've noticed.

This is where the race is won and lost I feal, right on that first bend.

I feal it's like this for most races really,.

 

[daan]

You must be so unlucky that you've used a controller and 2 different wheels that have all been faulty/glitchy. What are the chances?

 

[flying-chick]

You must be so unlucky that you've used a controller and 2 different wheels that have all been faulty/glitchy. What are the chances?

I'm not sure 😊 but do you have Some load cell pedals ?.

I've now got T-lcm pedals, which are like new but I did get them second hand, I'm hoping somebody can confirm I may have a fault with them or it's just the way they are, or I need a mod.

I'll be back home from work soon, so I'll post a picture of what I'm seeing on the calibration software that thrustmaster offer.

Even when I apply as hard as brake as possible I'm still not able to slow tha car down quick enough on corners that require full brake.

On my calibration software the raw values on the brake is not going up no where near the same distance as the other raw values, and the amount of force required to get the raw value to even hit 60 % is so not achievable for me, and the amount of force required to get the raw value to hit over 60 percent is just crazy.

I've tried different spring combos, but it does not make a difference to me being able to slow down quick enough on full break corners.

It really is something I've never had an issue with before today.

Perhaps I'm expecting to much to soon, which has crossed my mind, but with being so good on Forza, it's just something I'm not used to at present, that is.

But really it's worth pointing out that when your within 1 second of a world record the speed in which you go round a whole track is only a 1 mph difference, for instance if you do a set speed of 151 mph over 5 miles you get s time of 119 secs and if you do it at 150 mph you get a time of 120 secs, so just 1 mph makes a difference, so perhaps it really not me but more the car I'm training with, and it's more likely I need to now adjust the brake bias, which as of yesterday I've only just noticed you can.

I've noticed on Gt7 also a lot of people get better results with different cars in different tracks, and just yesterday i only just noticed that you have to change your oil 😊 on gt7, as in my garage it showed up as my oil being worn, which made me laugh 😂

But I wondered if not changing your oil makes a difference to lap times.

But I figure it must do. but does anyone know if there's is any indication your oil needs changing ?

With a wheel also, my driving lines can be more consistent like when im taking a corner I'll aim for the white bits at the end of the red tracks rumble skirts on the opposite side, right before turning in, and in Forza.this was always at perfection levels on a wheel for me,

So having a wheel and pedals i gel with is also important to me, I can get it to the same level with a controler but I may end up getting one corner slightly off. As you may spot that in the demo I posted.

This is where my problem is, as of the moment I'm hitting those marks better with a controler, it's still fun but I do prefer the real deal,

I'm back home now, 😊 how do I stop merging posts ? And how do I know if I am ?


So I've uploaded some pictures of the t-lcm calibration software, picture one represents how much the raw value is going up on the brake, which takes to much force for me to achieve, and picture 2 represents how much it can go up to under extreme force, is this normal,

As you see in the picture the raw values in the clutch and accelerator which are indicated in green, go to 100 percent but the brakr does not.

Will it make a difference if I buy a mod for £14.00, there a plastic spring, people are raving about them, but would this change this ?