Ok - second day with the rig moving. I put on a 50" Television on the stand - it's too big. The TV weighs only some 20 pounds but with the VESA adapter to go from 100x100 to 200x200 and the low portion mounting position it's too wobbly. What's more - it's too big! I'm looking upwards to look ahead and it's simply too much real estate. I think around a 40-43" is going to be the goldilocks here, ideally something with the TV mount near center.
I also grabbed an older Schroth harness from storage - need to get a bolt and some washers to mount it to the chassis, hanging loosely looks like there won't be any issues.
So.. I have learned, so far, this is not quite a plug and play getup. The tuning profile makes all the difference in the world. I suspect my early adoption here is going to bite me in the butt some because I flat out suck at making these adjustments and am eagerly waiting someone much smarter than me to post some tuning profiles. There are some youtube videos with Jeff Weaver I need to watch through to get an understanding of the adjustments and max values. I'm using his F1 H3 with SFU numbers currently. Wow. What a difference that made over the default. It feels far more accurate to what's happening on screen but there are still some random jerks and bucks that are unsettling and the cars won't pitch on decel/accel like they used to and at certain times, especially with lots of action/reaction, the platform seems to get lost and moves in unpredictable/random ways. There are also moments of spontaneous jumps, this time it isn't a bucking motion but just a HARD one off jump.
I'm trying different cars and different tracks out and the ideal solution is going to be to 'tune' for every car, too. I need to find a universal profile setting that'll work for 75% of cars out there. I noticed harder suspension vehicles like a Cayman GT4 on Sport Soft tires react much wilder to the same track versus a 90s Civic Type R on Comfort Sport tires.
I also need to dial the whole thing back a little - I lowered the boost to 25 and that was a little too muted. I'm running through all the tracks to get a broad range of input on adjustments. I feel a little nauseated writing this out in fact and I blame Daytona for that. Yowza - that roll effect on the bank with the huge TV is...uhh.. yeah.
With VR I'm thinking everything will need to be dialed back substantially - a less is more approach, because otherwise it's going to be an unreasonable chaotic experience. I see where actuators make an argument as they would simulate the suspension of the vehicle. Quite frankly, you'd want the best of both worlds and I suspect that's the H6 rig.
Next on the docket - get a smaller TV and order a buttkicker.
I noticed the magicbox will not recognize the 5ghz wifi network I have and am using the 2.4ghz. This may also be creating some telemetry confusion and random actions by the rig playing catch up or skipping movements due to the smoothing effects? I will send SRS a question tomorrow why/how to get the MagicBox to recognize the 5 band network. Ultimately I'll be bringing the rig inside the house which will give me access to an ethernet cable port which I'll split for the PS5 and MagicBox to go directly into the modem. Unless that's a bad idea, should it go to a router?
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