GTPlanet Scale model thread

[Apok]

Excellent, thanks for the advice, and I'll post pictures of the finished product if it turns out anywhere near decent enough. That Peugeot looks brilliant by the way.

I have a few more questions regarding the building process if anyone could help answer them for me? (some/all of them probably have very obvious answers, but bear in mind, this is my very first time building one of these)

Do I need to primer everything before painting?

What tools do I use for attaching the smallest of pieces, the decals for the instrument panel for example?

Can I use acrylic paint with a paint brush to paint the small details like door handles, pedals etc. Or do I need to use special paint?

I'm sure there are more questions I will need answering somewhere down the line but these should he able to get me started for now.

Many thanks in advance.

You don't neccesarily need primer. You should perhaps use some fine sand paper on it and make sure you clean it in soapy water or else the paint might not stick so well.

I usually use my finger to generally apply the decal at first, but then you can use a needle or a toothpick to get it into place. Be careful not to rip it if you choose to use a needle. I do that too often.

And finally you can use acrylic paint for details no problem, just don't use any email or lacquer clear coat over it. Remember LEA

L- lacquer is usually the paint and clear coat that comes in aerosols. It can dissolve both email and acrylic.

E- Email is usually used for models (or at least it was before acrylic paints started getting more and more popular). Email may dissolve acrylics.

A- Acrylic you are probably familliar with. Water based paints are acrylic and they don't dissolve anything.

I have found before that sometimes this rule isn't correct. I have succesfully used aerosol clear coat over email and acrylic, but this is taking a gamble.
Good luck with your build!

 

[SRV2LOW4ME]

I prefer using lacquer over enamel spray for bodies. Its much easier to use, goes on smooth, and is easy to clean. I believe most Tamiya spray paints are lacquer, and the cheaper cans to be enamel. Word of advice though, don't use enamel clear coat as it can sometimes turn yellowish, and usually does on the models you don't want it too. Personally I stay away from water based acrylic paint for my detail parts. Its easy to clean up, but find its hit or miss on the quality of it and its ease of use.

I always wash the plastic tree's (all the parts still stuck on the mold) in dish soap and warm water, then rinse and dry really well. The body gets extra attention, and then light sanding with a super fine sand paper, followed by a wash again and good towel drying. The wash gets rid of all the oils left on the plastic from the mold, and the sanding helps the paint adhere better.

I use a clean, short bristled brush to help set the decals. Pluck it out of the water with the brush, gently shake off any excess water and set in place. Then flatten and push the water/air out from underneath and let dry. Remember to always use WARM water, and if you feel the bowl get cold, replace it with warm water. Don't rush the decals either, and cut them out so you only do one at a time.

 

[GoldenGate]

You don't neccesarily need primer. You should perhaps use some fine sand paper on it and make sure you clean it in soapy water or else the paint might not stick so well.

I usually use my finger to generally apply the decal at first, but then you can use a needle or a toothpick to get it into place. Be careful not to rip it if you choose to use a needle. I do that too often.

And finally you can use acrylic paint for details no problem, just don't use any email or lacquer clear coat over it. Remember LEA

L- lacquer is usually the paint and clear coat that comes in aerosols. It can dissolve both email and acrylic.

E- Email is usually used for models (or at least it was before acrylic paints started getting more and more popular). Email may dissolve acrylics.

A- Acrylic you are probably familliar with. Water based paints are acrylic and they don't dissolve anything.

I have found before that sometimes this rule isn't correct. I have succesfully used aerosol clear coat over email and acrylic, but this is taking a gamble.
Good luck with your build!

I prefer using lacquer over enamel spray for bodies. Its much easier to use, goes on smooth, and is easy to clean. I believe most Tamiya spray paints are lacquer, and the cheaper cans to be enamel. Word of advice though, don't use enamel clear coat as it can sometimes turn yellowish, and usually does on the models you don't want it too. Personally I stay away from water based acrylic paint for my detail parts. Its easy to clean up, but find its hit or miss on the quality of it and its ease of use.

I always wash the plastic tree's (all the parts still stuck on the mold) in dish soap and warm water, then rinse and dry really well. The body gets extra attention, and then light sanding with a super fine sand paper, followed by a wash again and good towel drying. The wash gets rid of all the oils left on the plastic from the mold, and the sanding helps the paint adhere better.

I use a clean, short bristled brush to help set the decals. Pluck it out of the water with the brush, gently shake off any excess water and set in place. Then flatten and push the water/air out from underneath and let dry. Remember to always use WARM water, and if you feel the bowl get cold, replace it with warm water. Don't rush the decals either, and cut them out so you only do one at a time.

Awesome, thanks a bunch 👍

One more thing, where would be the best place to buy different wheels? I'm not planning on changing the wheels on my D1 RX7 model, but if I buy a street car model someday, I would maybe like to change the wheels.

Thanks SRV2LOW4ME and Apokalipse for the pointers so far, they have been a great help.

 

[motortrend]

Curently on the build process of this:

One of the most recent pics: (rollcage has been fixed since this)

 

[SRV2LOW4ME]

One more thing, where would be the best place to buy different wheels? I'm not planning on changing the wheels on my D1 RX7 model, but if I buy a street car model someday, I would maybe like to change the wheels.

You can check online, I know theres a couple of good sites out there. Ebay can be your friend too, but I've never done it. Theres a shop here thats really good, pretty much carries anything and everything (when I built a scale model of my Prelude, I actually found my exact exhaust to put on it).

Usually I just keep any wheels that come with any of my kits. You'd be surprised how many sets you collect over the years. When my friend asked me to build him a model of his old Prelude, I dug through my box and found his exact set...plus the set of Rays he had on his Civic.

@motortrend - I built that Porsche a few years ago and liked it. Not a whole lot too it, but I loved the fact that it came with a bunch of 80's gadgets to put in it. (ie. car phone the size of a loaf of bread)

 

[Robin]

I've got a question,

Would you guys say that Tamiya TS-8 Italian Red is a reasonably correct match to Alfa Romeo red? Because I'm going to be painting an Alfa kit.

Thanks,

Robin.

 

[Apok]

I think they were aiming for a Ferrari red with it, since a Tamiya kit of a Ferrari I saw had that as the recommended color.
But I have no idea sorry.

 

[SRV2LOW4ME]

Can't say, but I'd agree with Apokalipse in thinking it was probably designed for Ferrari kits.

 

[Robin]

The thing is there have been many Tamiya Alfa Romeo kits where they have said use Italian Red so I was wondering if its just them trying to have less paints or if it does match up pretty well.

I have seen examples of people painting Alfa kits with that red but I really don't even know how different the real life Ferrari and Alfa reds are! I was hoping someone here had done one or could show the two different reds.

Robin.

 

[Heldenzeit]

Im getting going on my Tamiya Tyrrell P34 model. The engine and gearbox are completed and its looking great.

Will post pics as I go along.

 

[Cano]

Thank you guys!👍

Here's some more:

amazing pics

crap, some of those could have fooled me. Amazing.

 

[Shaun]

I've got a question,

Would you guys say that Tamiya TS-8 Italian Red is a reasonably correct match to Alfa Romeo red? Because I'm going to be painting an Alfa kit.

Thanks,

Robin.

Robin here's a couple of pics of a kit i'm currently building, it's painted Italian Red mixed as per Tamiya instructions. 5 parts X7 (red) to 1 part X6 (orange).

The red in this kit is just X7 (red)

Although the pics aren't the best Italian Red is a little bit brighter hence the orange in it. Hope that helps a little bit. The thing is both Ferrari and Alfa have many different shades of red depending on the model.

Cheers Shaun.

 

[Robin]

Robin here's a couple of pics of a kit i'm currently building, it's painted Italian Red mixed as per Tamiya instructions. 5 parts X7 (red) to 1 part X6 (orange).

Although the pics aren't the best Italian Red is a little bit brighter hence the orange in it. Hope that helps a little bit. The thing is both Ferrari and Alfa have many different shades of red depending on the model.

Cheers Shaun.

Thanks for the reply and the pics, the finish you have done on those models is really impressive 👍

I read that all early competition Alfa's where painted in the same Red as the Ferrari's, Lancia's etc of the same era. Basically Rosso Corsa. I would say from your pics Tamiya Italian Red is the best match to that colour and its the one Ferrari has been using recently.

This is the Alfa colour I'm after,

In certain light it looks darker,

Robin.

 

[LSX]

That looks incredible. Really great paint work.

Two new models for me. Although I just buy them

2011 Tony Stewart Mobil1/Office Depot Impala.
New model Labeled as Lionel. I'll say the quality and detail are up a good bit. IMO it's on par with an Action Elite, missing only the hood, trunk and roof flap tethers. I'm very surprised and very happy with it.

2000 Dale Earnhardt 76th (and final) Win. Also done in the Winston No-Bull Hi-Vis orange accents, as it was a million dollar bonus race, which he won.
Wish I could have gotten the raced win version, but I don't like bidding wars that the car seems to ignite every time. 350+ dollars most of the time... Anyway, this is the remake which was released in 2010 to honor dales inception into the Nascar Hall of Fame.

I've also just put a preorder in for Trevor Bayne's 2011 Daytona 500 Raced win Ford Fusion. Won't ship until July, but comes with display case and card, with free shipping.

And GMB has the AutoArt 1:18th James Gue / Gunnar Jeanette Mustang FR-500C Grand-Am Cup car (now Continental Tire series.) Someone in this thread got the white one, but this is the yellow one I've been wanting. Only 39.99 . It's going to sell out, so if anyone wants one, go to the get it now section and pick one up, there is also a Yokohama/ADVAN 911, I think it's from the Nurb 24hrs.

 

[Shaun]

Thanks for the reply and the pics, the finish you have done on those models is really impressive 👍

I read that all early competition Alfa's where painted in the same Red as the Ferrari's, Lancia's etc of the same era. Basically Rosso Corsa. I would say from your pics Tamiya Italian Red is the best match to that colour and its the one Ferrari has been using recently.

It looks like the Italian Red will be a pretty good match for what you are after.👍

Thanks for the comments on the paint finish. My standard method is normally about a 4 very light coats. Let dry properly then rub with about 3200 grit wet and dry, clean and repeat that process about another 3 times or until i'm happy with the finish. Once painted I apply the decals and then repeat the paint process with clearcoat. Finally i'll give it a polish with a good quality auto polish.

I normally always airbrush even if the paint I buy is a spray can I'll decant it and use my airbrush, I find I can control the flow better this way. Having said that Tamiya spray paints are excellent and I've got some results using them that I'm very happy with. A little trick someone taught me years ago when using spray cans is to warm then up in a bowl of warm water prior to using. It helps with the flow especially if painting on a cool day.

Good luck with your Alfa model.

Cheers Shaun.

Edit: Thanks for the comments LSX 👍

 

[motortrend]

I'm not that good a photographer but here we go
The favorite car in my collection, the 250 GTO:

 

[rsh]

Very nice!

Is it the Kyosho Ferrari 250 GTO?
The 250 GTO is one of the most legendary cars ever and it is almost a must have for Ferrari, Le Mans enthousiasts to have. 👍

 

[motortrend]

Very nice!

Is it the Kyosho Ferrari 250 GTO?
The 250 GTO is one of the most legendary cars ever and it is almost a must have for Ferrari, Le Mans enthousiasts to have. 👍

It is the kyosho one. It was a must have for me since that is pretty much my favorite car. At least in my small 5 car 1/18 collection it is my favorite. I think kyosho makes this red model in 2 versions, one being more expensive than mine and having a few small details like an opening gas cap. it also makes a le mans version, which I am thinking of getting

 

[Venom800tt]

My most recent additions:


1/18 Minichamps 1991 Audi V8 Quattro DTM, Walter Rohl
1/43 Spark 2009 Pagani Zonda R (previously posted)
1/43 AUTOart 2005 Dodge Viper Competition Coupe
1/43 AUTOart 1999 Aston Martin DB7 Vantage

 

[LSX]

I'd like that Audi. Thanks. Very cool.

 

[Prince.M5]

I've just received this 1/18 Minichamps BMW Sauber F1.08 (Driver Nick Heidfeld) from my dad's friend. This is my first 1/18 scale car and also my favourite F1 car of all time.

 

[LSX]

M5, that Sauber is great looking. I want an F1 diecast, I've been searching for a BGP-001, either driver. Anyhow, that Petronas livery is one of my favorites, such and nice blue, and with the white looks so clean. 👍

So, I received my FR500-C car today. Here she is. Very weighty model, I was surprised.

With my full AA collection. The red Saleen SCCA touring Mustang is GMP.

Here are a few Nascar Nationwide Raced Win diecast.

Dale Jr. Subway Jalapeno 250 Daytona Raced Win.

Dale Jr. Bristol Raced Win. From the weekend he swept the Bristol races in Cup and Nationwide.

Kevin Harvick Hersey Kisses 300 Daytona Raced Win.

Probably off on the race names, as they are sponsored by different companies now. I love the raced win cars, with the scrub marks from tires, rubber build up on the windows, and nose. Even under the hood, there is rubber slung from the tires, Down to the grease pencil and tape designating the tire location on the car. Very fun stuff, I'll go out of my way to find a raced win car over the clean regular diecast. More often than not, the raced cars are far more rare. For instance, the Bristol car is 1/6XX and the other two, less than 1,500 each. Sure beats the 10-15K that are normally made. That however does not stand for my 2010 Jr. Wrangler raced with number 3 car, which they made 18K of in raced and more in clean.

Another thing. Is it just me, or do these stock cars get no love from anyone on here?

I'm trying to improve my pictures, I use my Blackberry, my girlfriend is giving me her point and shoot, maybe I should hi-jack her DSLR as well!

 

[Venom800tt]

Wee, got some pics of the Audi:

 

[Sting]

Grats on the 08 BMW Sauber, InvincibleM5. It's a great model to start off with, beautiful detail and looks great with the devil horns. One of my favourites also, I just need a 2006 and 2009 BMW Sauber.

 

[NISM0_SKYLINE]

Finally got Mr. Gasket, my favorite drag car of all time.

 

[SRV2LOW4ME]

Nice. I actually just read about it in one of my books, not a whole lot of info, just a couple of pictures and quick stats about the driver/car.

 

[LSX]

Got some mail this week. Very happy about my new additions.

2010 Mark Martin Carquest Impala

2008 Jeff Burton Bristol Raced Win Impala SS

Covered in tire marks and debris like any car after a good Bristol race.

I'm not a big fan, but the confetti from victory lane is growing on me.

I'm very happy with the Burton car, one of 730, and some of the best marking I've seen on a raced win car.

 

[Prince.M5]

Good stuff there LSX! I love those details on Burton's car

 

[MarcoM]

I looked for the Auto Art or the Kyosho GTR. I decided to go for the later. I love Kyosho from now on. Great details and working suspension.

 

[Venom800tt]

Tax return hit so now I ordered a few models...
1/43 HPI 1993 Alfa Romeo 155V6 TI DTM, Nannini
1/18 AUTOart 2001 Lamborghini Diablo 6.0, yellow
1/18 AUTOart 2011 Lexus LFA, matt black (pre-order)

Pics when they arrive...