- 2,706
- Knoxville, Tennessee
GTPlanet Scale model thread
- Thread starter bondy_1625
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10 months later:
Woot, it's back again. I've only glued the one piece of styrene to the bumper I meant to do many months ago. I did end up trimming off the sides, but I'm looking into adding a Rocket Bunny panel on the back quarter.....
which I'm doing right meow:
Kinda "tall". It is flush with the side skirt on both the top and bottom edges...
maybe I'll trim off 1mm from the bottom just so the back end isn't sitting as low.
This is how the relationship between the wing plays out so far:
Spent some days deciding how the heck I'm going to fit a diffuser in the tight amount of space there is under the car... That exhaust pipe causes all sorts of troubles in this regard, so I took to the web to see what diffusers people are installing on their real FDs....
Unfortunately due to the exhaust pipe's location it would seem the trending options are:
Super squarish contour which doesn't match the curves of the tail light and bumper.
Would've went for this but I did shave the lower section of the rear bumper making this ver difficult to work around the exhaust pipe.
So since I already started with the two flaps on the side, I figured I may as well use something like Rocket Bunny's:
Just need to add the rest of it.
Glued the styrene to the undercarriage rather than the flaps that are glued to the body. This is to give me a flat surface to attach the blades later. One of the biggest challenges here is that it's easier to attach the diffuser to the flaps on the side, but that means I can never take out the base afterwards.
#rx7street
- 910
- Italy
any tips for making a nice finish line like this one?
I don't have an airbrush so I must rely on spay cans If needed.
Tamiya spray colours are mostly for plastics so I probably can't use them...
This is a Tamiya weathering effect for cars but will it be suitable for diecasts?
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No man, you're not going to use aerosol paint to do fine weathering detailing... All that's going to do is create globs of liquid which in scale would be the equivalent to golf-ball size droplets on real cars, marble-size if you're really skilled. 
Use that weathering kit, and only the brush. The foam will get chunkier bits on, but you may or may not want to go with that until you got a good feel of applying chunky bits of mud while keeping it to a 1/18 scale (aka making it look believable).
The brush may not apply much at first especially if you're working on smooth surfaces, but just be patient with it.
I on the other hand don't have that level of patience. When I do weathering jobs, I have the weathering stick (essentially what you have in that pic you provided in the shape of lipstick) that I whack on and then brush it around to spread it out. To get the stuff going, I dab the brush in a tiny amount of water to get the mud slightly runny. This obviously gets you wet finishes, so you won't have that dry "sprayed-on" look. Here are some of my work at 1/64 scale:
Just remember this: Dry dirt; dry brush application. Soaked in mud; add water.
If you want black stuff though, I was taught about using oil paint thinned out until it's a runny liquid, and then doing dry-brush on the surface. I find that this looks great and arguably accurate because what you're putting on is the same thing that you'd find on real cars: oil. So what you'll need to head to some art store, get a small tube of black oil paint, brand doesn't matter (get the cheapest if you want). Get some kind of oil paint thinner. Thin that paint. Dab your brush in there, and then pat dry the brush on paper towel or something until it's not longer soaking wet. Start dabbing your grease onto the car. By no means will it be as fine as airbrushing, but it will have a more naturally uneven coating:
The Chevroleter had the Tamiya weathering as well as the oil paint brushed on. It looks like it's been through a brutal race, don't it?
Use that weathering kit, and only the brush. The foam will get chunkier bits on, but you may or may not want to go with that until you got a good feel of applying chunky bits of mud while keeping it to a 1/18 scale (aka making it look believable).
The brush may not apply much at first especially if you're working on smooth surfaces, but just be patient with it.
I on the other hand don't have that level of patience. When I do weathering jobs, I have the weathering stick (essentially what you have in that pic you provided in the shape of lipstick) that I whack on and then brush it around to spread it out. To get the stuff going, I dab the brush in a tiny amount of water to get the mud slightly runny. This obviously gets you wet finishes, so you won't have that dry "sprayed-on" look. Here are some of my work at 1/64 scale:
Just remember this: Dry dirt; dry brush application. Soaked in mud; add water.
If you want black stuff though, I was taught about using oil paint thinned out until it's a runny liquid, and then doing dry-brush on the surface. I find that this looks great and arguably accurate because what you're putting on is the same thing that you'd find on real cars: oil. So what you'll need to head to some art store, get a small tube of black oil paint, brand doesn't matter (get the cheapest if you want). Get some kind of oil paint thinner. Thin that paint. Dab your brush in there, and then pat dry the brush on paper towel or something until it's not longer soaking wet. Start dabbing your grease onto the car. By no means will it be as fine as airbrushing, but it will have a more naturally uneven coating:
The Chevroleter had the Tamiya weathering as well as the oil paint brushed on. It looks like it's been through a brutal race, don't it?
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- 910
- Italy
Perfect, many many thanks for the explanation, I will make some practice on a model I don't want to ruin.No man, you're not going to use aerosol paint to do fine weathering detailing... All that's going to do is create globs of liquid which in scale would be the equivalent to golf-ball size droplets on real cars, marble-size if you're really skilled.
Use that weathering kit, and only the brush. The foam will get chunkier bits on, but you may or may not want to go with that until you got a good feel of applying chunky bits of mud while keeping it to a 1/18 scale (aka making it look believable).
The brush may not apply much at first especially if you're working on smooth surfaces, but just be patient with it.
I on the other hand don't have that level of patience. When I do weathering jobs, I have the weathering stick (essentially what you have in that pic you provided in the shape of lipstick) that I whack on and then brush it around to spread it out. To get the stuff going, I dab the brush in a tiny amount of water to get the mud slightly runny. This obviously gets you wet finishes, so you won't have that dry "sprayed-on" look. Here are some of my work at 1/64 scale:
Just remember this: Dry dirt; dry brush application. Soaked in mud; add water.
If you want black stuff though, I was taught about using oil paint thinned out until it's a runny liquid, and then doing dry-brush on the surface. I find that this looks great and arguably accurate because what you're putting on is the same thing that you'd find on real cars: oil. So what you'll need to head to some art store, get a small tube of black oil paint, brand doesn't matter (get the cheapest if you want). Get some kind of oil paint thinner. Thin that paint. Dab your brush in there, and then pat dry the brush on paper towel or something until it's not longer soaking wet. Start dabbing your grease onto the car. By no means will it be as fine as airbrushing, but it will have a more naturally uneven coating:
The Chevroleter had the Tamiya weathering as well as the oil paint brushed on. It looks like it's been through a brutal race, don't it?
Anyway...do you recommend to spray a matt topcoat after the oil paint and/or the tamiya weathering set?
Topcoat is acylic, while mr super clear is laquer...which one should I use?
Or the application of this extra coat is unnecessary?
- 5,835
- Manila, PH
- TakuKanonji22
I revived my blogspot account. You may now view my review of the Audi R8 V10 Plus.
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Oh word. Thanks for bringing that up. Go with acrylic. I'm unsure if lacquer reacts with the stuff. Probably doesn't; do some research if you care to know. And yes a matte coat is what you want, unless glossy dirt makes any sense to you.
Coating it will at the very least mean you can handle the thing without rubbing any of it off and getting it on your fingers. So I'd definitely do it.
- 910
- Italy
Coating is essential when using the weathering kit since it's basically powder, I've heard that laquer may have a better finish than acrylic but it's more toxic and it may react with the model (I'm not even sure what paint is used on the die cast I will modify) and/or the oil paint, I can try it but I will need some testing on old die casts and maybe a gas mask
Some say laquer reacts with certain types of paint, some say don't, I've seen a video of a guy using a laquer coat (he said that it was laquer for real cars) on an acrylic coat of paint.
The paint got completely ruined and cracked, but when using mrhobby super clear 3 (laquer as well) the result was absolutely perfect.
- 170
- Ontario
- alstigy
If you're into 1/43 porsche models this seller has some sick deals. Just now I ordered a HPI porsche 956 as a gift for someone.
http://www.ebay.ca/sch/andreyporscheracecars/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=
http://www.ebay.ca/sch/andreyporscheracecars/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=
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- 2,706
- Knoxville, Tennessee
Couple more Supra pics and a new addition (that I should have got a long time ago):
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- 16,635
- Melbourne
- ScottPuss20
- CheetahsMeow
- 5,835
- Manila, PH
- TakuKanonji22
Thank god I made the right decision to buy this instead of the Tarmac 1:43 scale Evo VI TME:
- 2,706
- Knoxville, Tennessee
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250 USD + 5% discount
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For that amount, that's a pretty good price for only 99 pieces.
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- 3,174
- Pinckney, MI
- NISMO_S13
- If I had the money
Found this 1/16 Polistil Mercedes RW 196 today. Broken windscreen, but whatever.
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Literally found? I ask if that is the reason for the absence of the window.
In either case, a broken windscreen opens up the opportunity to add some weathering to make it all the more appropriate to the existing damage.
- 3,174
- Pinckney, MI
- NISMO_S13
- If I had the money
- 2,706
- Knoxville, Tennessee
While I just received this wheel swapped AA NSX-R...
I need an NA2 NSX-R now, along with a 2017 NSX...
I need an NA2 NSX-R now, along with a 2017 NSX...
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- 2,706
- Knoxville, Tennessee
- 1,330
- NRW
- Vinylshark
- 1,330
- NRW
- Vinylshark
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The Civics are 1/18 Ignition, but they're not out yet. You can more than likely place preorders at carmodelz or amiami.
