how much weight to the back is that vcd set at? I'm thinking that's what's keeping you from drifting
i think you mean ballast, not VCD, because you're referring to weight..,
The III should be fairly hard to drift, those first couple Evos were pretty understeery. It should be easy to drift the VIII though, that'll drift right out of the box. You didn't mention ballast though, put about 200 lbs. to the back (-50) and make sure the suspension is quite stiff. Maybe it's your driving style, you have to flick it in hard and let the tail slide out.
that's 200 kilos, not pounds..,
what is it, stiff or soft rear?? I want the rear end to break loose..,
I've been driving a stock R34, and it's very easy to drift even on S2's.
WHAAAA...??
what the? how come I can't??
I noticed the 8's not at full power, it goes up to about 550 hp. Maybe those extra 80 horsies would help. Same for the III.
d24/7, go for roj's Evo 8 from TCv3 to fix your Evo 8 problem. That had some wicked drift going when we were driving it around Citta Di Aria.
Kurei's Evo 4 tune (Evo X) from TCv4 was also a dream to drive and wonderful for getting double apex drifts around GVS (the double left hander and the double right hander after the tight hairpin) but I noticed with both of those tunes that the AYC was used to more effect than the VCD ever could be. They were both set fairly hard (between 85-130) so that could provide a different avenue for you to go down.
Apart from that, it's the usual case of soft front, hard rear with the spring rate, dampers and stabilisers.
I thought it was hard front, soft rear..,
Okay, I'll check out Roj's setup..,
*edit* I can't see the thread..,
P.S. Should this be here or in drift forum??
either. this thread is focused on both a car setup and drifting..,
It'll be a lot easier if you use N2 / N1 instead of N3 / N2. Also, AWD cars have tendencies like front-drive cars, so using low front LSD accel as well as unusually low spring rates in the rear will usually work well for provoking oversteer upon turn-in. You may want to compensate for these spring rates (and balance the suspension) by reducing the front ride height compared to the rear. The increased front spring rate also works to prevent decambering, offering more front end grip. Just remember to keep the front bound low.
This is based off of what I know from drifting the Mitsu Galant '89, so the same principles should apply. If it doesn't though, keep this in mind.
If this isn't enough, use a selective amount of toe-out to reduce rear-end grip. For drifting you don't necessarily need to use VCD settings of 10 / 90; using a decent amount of front-end works just fine. Of course, if you fit a AYC, it becomes a lot easier.
I'll try the rear toe out and the AYC.., I prefer making the rear end lose grip on AWD's..,
N2 tires in front..... N1 in the rear. Decent power to weight ratio (usually around 350hp to 500hp or so) and that's it. Any AWD in the game is drift worthy with these small changes.
No need for fancy settings. Although, Tandem makes a good point about changing suspension, toe settings to reduce rear end grip, if need be. Only if need be.
Furthermore, if you need a tutorial, I did a video tutorial a few years back that should help you out. Send me a PM and I'll see if I can get it to you.
i want the setup to be usable in multiplayer.., that means it has to have only 1 tire compound.., yeah, harder compounds at the rear work, but they won't be usable in multiplayer..,
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