- 7,588
- Whateversville
- Flerbizky
TurboJ
That is quite annoying.. If only you could buy an adjustable gearbox WITHOUT adding the annoying 6th gear...
That's an interesting crash
HELP....RUF yellow bird handling
- Thread starter driftking1212
- 66 comments
- 14,955 views
That is quite annoying.. If only you could buy an adjustable gearbox WITHOUT adding the annoying 6th gear...
That's an interesting crash
FlerbizkyThat is quite annoying.. If only you could buy an adjustable gearbox WITHOUT adding the annoying 6th gear...
That's an interesting crash
I have tuned the transmission in some cars so that the sixth gear is useless (way too long to drive) so you can't use it -> you basically have a 5 speed box with adjustable ratios.
- 7,588
- Whateversville
- Flerbizky
Yearh.. I've thought about doing just that..TurboJ
I have tuned the transmission in some cars so that the sixth gear is useless (way too long to drive) so you can't use it -> you basically have a 5 speed box with adjustable ratios.
Same problem with the Benz Evo II..
- 1,151
Look ; *sighs* w/ the Yellowbird or RGT there's a few simple points you've got to remember .
Firstly , it steers w/ it's arse , therefore there are several things you DON'T need on there like Camber , zero that rear camber it will only get in the way and attempt to correct mevement that needs no correction , the rear tyres should be flat on the tarmac giving all of their contact , rear toe is a no no for precisely the same reason it'll color the power transfer and do weird things with the weight that's there . My preference for an 'active' powered rear axle is also to not overdo it on the bound damping , this is another thing that lessens the transfer of power , so shave that .
You like oversteer don't you ? If not get out of the goddamn RUF and go play w/ure girlfriends . So ; Inrease the front camber by , perhaps 50% , depends on personal taste & twistiness of track but layer some on there , so you've got the front wheels sniffing , now add a little more kgm to the rear shocks to complement it and youre in a RUF with some nice , but not fidgety oversteer . Find it hard to right yourself after a drift or that you can't find the point of exits drift/spin break ? My recommend ToeIn the front one or two notches (+) . That's about it , the rest is mostly personal but if you really want to drift w/ this thing then kill the asm and only add 1 traction if you have a ton of extra off the line . . . Ramen
Firstly , it steers w/ it's arse , therefore there are several things you DON'T need on there like Camber , zero that rear camber it will only get in the way and attempt to correct mevement that needs no correction , the rear tyres should be flat on the tarmac giving all of their contact , rear toe is a no no for precisely the same reason it'll color the power transfer and do weird things with the weight that's there . My preference for an 'active' powered rear axle is also to not overdo it on the bound damping , this is another thing that lessens the transfer of power , so shave that .
You like oversteer don't you ? If not get out of the goddamn RUF and go play w/ure girlfriends . So ; Inrease the front camber by , perhaps 50% , depends on personal taste & twistiness of track but layer some on there , so you've got the front wheels sniffing , now add a little more kgm to the rear shocks to complement it and youre in a RUF with some nice , but not fidgety oversteer . Find it hard to right yourself after a drift or that you can't find the point of exits drift/spin break ? My recommend ToeIn the front one or two notches (+) . That's about it , the rest is mostly personal but if you really want to drift w/ this thing then kill the asm and only add 1 traction if you have a ton of extra off the line . . . Ramen
- 279
I've been driving the BTR and the Yellowbird on Tsukuba, and I was wondering if someone could do a good lap with either of those cars stock on Tsukuba so I have something to aim towards. I spent my afternoon yesterday practicing and I believe I got somewhere between 58 to 59 seconds with the Yellowbird, and between 1 minute to 1 minute and 1 second with the BTR.
- 563
Well I read this thread and can say that there are two basic ways for making this car drive like a dream. All this talk about don't tune it man is like saying "don't bend the spoon, realize there in no spoon". This car is NOT that hard to tune, people just have this crazy idea that this thing can't be tuned.
Quite simply... in 7 steps
1. Break Balance: Leave the front alone, use a 3/5 ratio. This will keep the rear in place and offer a lot more stability to the ride in general. It'll also balance the car alot, improoving the ****ty breaking tons.
2. Toe Angles: Tire wear is not that big of a deal as long as you keep the numbers low. Use a 1 in the front and a -1 in the rear. This, when combined with the next step. Will greatly increase your turning ability.
3. Stabilizers: Lower these a bit, leaving more in the front then the back. 4/3 should be perfect.
4. Ride Height: Five from the bottom in the front, seven at the back.
5. Spring Rates: 8.0 and 9.5
6. Limited Slip: 5/10/5 front, and 8/22/5 rear.
7. Camper Angles: 2.8 front, 1.4 rear
That's about it... I swear this will solve about 90% of your problems with this car. And for Pete's sake, don't over power this car just because you can. You can't add a wing so 600 or so HP is plenty. You'll get way better times with it if you can control it properly... move along. This is actuely the first car that people actuely have to tune from scratch and they freak out all the time. You can get away with other cars, but not this one... Try these little tips and you'll drop time like a fat chick in a sauna on meth drops weight.
Quite simply... in 7 steps
1. Break Balance: Leave the front alone, use a 3/5 ratio. This will keep the rear in place and offer a lot more stability to the ride in general. It'll also balance the car alot, improoving the ****ty breaking tons.
2. Toe Angles: Tire wear is not that big of a deal as long as you keep the numbers low. Use a 1 in the front and a -1 in the rear. This, when combined with the next step. Will greatly increase your turning ability.
3. Stabilizers: Lower these a bit, leaving more in the front then the back. 4/3 should be perfect.
4. Ride Height: Five from the bottom in the front, seven at the back.
5. Spring Rates: 8.0 and 9.5
6. Limited Slip: 5/10/5 front, and 8/22/5 rear.
7. Camper Angles: 2.8 front, 1.4 rear
That's about it... I swear this will solve about 90% of your problems with this car. And for Pete's sake, don't over power this car just because you can. You can't add a wing so 600 or so HP is plenty. You'll get way better times with it if you can control it properly... move along. This is actuely the first car that people actuely have to tune from scratch and they freak out all the time. You can get away with other cars, but not this one... Try these little tips and you'll drop time like a fat chick in a sauna on meth drops weight.
wow different opinions...
actualy this is my favorite one
http://www.badongo.com/vid.php?file=gt4+videos__2005-12-19_GT4+Yellow+bird.wmv&s=black
actualy this is my favorite one
http://www.badongo.com/vid.php?file=gt4+videos__2005-12-19_GT4+Yellow+bird.wmv&s=black
