hot rods, muscle cars, customs...

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It's crazy how different it is man. I lived in Ohio for several years and came back here this summer. Each region has its muscle car/rodding uniqueness about it. I love how techy the classic cars and rods are out here, but I also loved how the majority of cars in the Midwest/Northeast were numbers matching originals. Each region is unique, adapting to its surrounding environment. Very cool to be able to see what other gear heads do in other regions!
 
XS
It's crazy how different it is man. I lived in Ohio for several years and came back here this summer. Each region has its muscle car/rodding uniqueness about it. I love how techy the classic cars and rods are out here, but I also loved how the majority of cars in the Midwest/Northeast were numbers matching originals. Each region is unique, adapting to its surrounding environment. Very cool to be able to see what other gear heads do in other regions!
That is true. You wouldn't believe some of the stuff I see up here daily. Rediculous.
 
It looks cool and scream power but there is WAY too much going on there.


I like this better. I like it to look simple and stock, but have all sorts of internal work done and make sleeper stuff out of it.

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I fully agree!!:cheers:
 
XS
It just adds an element of drivability, especially with elevation changes and long distance. It also is a good compensator at altitude. If you make 400hp in Denver, you lose 25% of that power say in Vail. With the on the fly adjustable EFI you can add that power back, whereas standard modern cars the computer doesn't add power back, it just is what it is. I see your point though lol.
How so? Does it advance timing and richen the A/F ratio? I was always under the impression that loss of power due to altitude wasn't reversible except if you went to forced induction.
 
Probably just richens the A/F mixture. The only way I could see it advancing the timing without getting out of the car is with a computer which is pointless on an old engine. The only computer on an old engine should be one after a conversion from points to solid state ignition. I find they run a lot stronger. I noticed this particularly after putting an MSD system on my engine after a failed attempt at a DSII conversion.
 
Base timing is in the block. The only way you advance that is to pull the cover and that's not fun. Plus its controlled by the engine itself with a double roller chain. Not gonna happen. If anything I see t playing with the curve on the distributor. But ignition would need to be converted to solid state to accept an ecu. Otherwise its all mechanical.
 
Base timing is in the block. The only way you advance that is to pull the cover and that's not fun. Plus its controlled by the engine itself with a double roller chain. Not gonna happen. If anything I see t playing with the curve on the distributor. But ignition would need to be converted to solid state to accept an ecu. Otherwise its all mechanical.

That is what I was figuring. On Factory EFI 5.0s we can adjust timing curve via a tune in the ECU but base has to be done the old fashioned way with a timing light and turning the distributor after disconnecting the SPOUT connector.
 
Yeah you have to work with the EEC which is what I don't like on the EFI engines. The only fuel injection I'd use is mechanical just because I like to keep it simple and get rid of as much electronics as I can. Precisly why we ripped out the computer in our truck.

The problem with the EFI engines is if you try to advance the timing by turning the distributor cap, it won't run, or if you're lucky enough to have it run, it will run like crap, BAD. It also depends what Duraspark system you have. I'm pretty sure stock EFI systems are DS-II and DS-III systems. I believe they are points distributors since they don't have the riser cap typical on vacuum advance distributors (like mine). That way they work with the computer.

The old fashioned way doesn't need to be done unless you are working with the chain. All you have to do is turn the cap and listen to the engine. Shouldn't have over 30* advance on these engines, 32 at most.

Also doesn't help we don't know what engine @XS has in their Mustang.
 
Yeah you have to work with the EEC which is what I don't like on the EFI engines. The only fuel injection I'd use is mechanical just because I like to keep it simple and get rid of as much electronics as I can. Precisly why we ripped out the computer in our truck.

The problem with the EFI engines is if you try to advance the timing by turning the distributor cap, it won't run, or if you're lucky enough to have it run, it will run like crap, BAD. It also depends what Duraspark system you have. I'm pretty sure stock EFI systems are DS-II and DS-III systems. I believe they are points distributors since they don't have the riser cap typical on vacuum advance distributors (like mine). That way they work with the computer.

That's where removing the SPOUT connector comes in on EFI 5.0 that disconnects the computer from the timing so you can advance it. Its the oldest 5.0 EFI trick in the book ;). I love my EFI and would never go back to carbs.
 
That's true. I have limited experience on the EFI engines anyways. I see them all the time but have only worked on a few, most of them 351s.

I like carbs for their ease of use (for the most part). When emissions equipment starts to go on the EFI engines it brings all sorts of bullcrap with it. Not fun, especially trying to trouble shoot everything.
 
On static flash "chips" such as a normal cars stock computer or most aftermarket standard EFI computers such as Diablo Sport or Summit, only one tune can be flashed on the "chip". This is the most common setup that we're used to. In these cars, like you guys are discussing, when there's an atmospheric pressure change such as altitude or air temp (cooler air is denser), the computer advances or retards the timing. The QuarterHorse computer the chip is not only re-flashable on the fly, but it can hold several different engine tunes. This requires a setup that can handle variation, i.e. larger fuel rails, larger injectors, higher flow fuel pump, etc. So basically, if you run at maximum horse power at 5,000 ft then at 9,000 ft you cannot get the power back. However, as with the great majority of cars, you intentionally program a less powerful tune than what is actually possible, adding drivability, fuel economy, less wear and tear on engine components. Remember here the point of the EFI is to have drivability and performance optimized, not balls-out performance 100% of the time, although you can do that too. So anyway, if we're choosing an engine tune that's in the performance middle ground the engine will live happy and will run better overall. So say the middle road tune makes 400hp but the max is 500hp. We head to the mountains and lose 20% of our hp. If we run the middle road tune we're down to 320hp, but if we switch to the max tune we're right back to 400hp, but we cannot go anymore as that is the new max. Forced induction adds a little variability in the possible tunes too. Like I said, if you run a max hp tune all the time then no, any power you lose at altitude cannot be regained through an engine tune.
 
I disagree. You don't turbo a boss motor. You just don't. N/A power all the way.

you suck.

That's crazy talk. You TURBO EVERYTHING!

You rule.

It looks cool and scream power but there is WAY too much going on there.
I like this better. I like it to look simple and stock, but have all sorts of internal work done and make sleeper stuff out of it.

You suck again.

also:
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Nice picture!! Loving it. Those cars make that Mustang and Beetle look puny lol. Mustang looks like the only performance car there lol
 
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Restoration progress :)

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Ain't it amazing what some paint will do?

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What's up with the Mustang? I've never seen paint like that ever....photoshop? Super wax and 30 layers of clearcoat?
 
What's up with the Mustang? I've never seen paint like that ever....photoshop? Super wax and 30 layers of clearcoat?
Someone definitely played with the contrast, but I too was wondering how much of the paint is real. I doubt it looks like that IRL.
 
Yeah it's the dark yellow like on the boss 302 cars. I guess it could be taken as a really really really light orange. That car above is definitely orange.
 
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