Hot Wheels and Matchbox Customizing Thread

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is that better than normal painters masking tape? I ask as iam new to this and I just buy what I think would work, trial and error I suppose.

Tamiya masking tape >>> Painters tape. Painter's tape is for your drywall. Tamiya's for hobby stuff.
 
Don't know then. Do know Tamiya's got long-standing rep for model kit (plastic cars, planes, ships, mecha) builders. They also produce their own paint too.

Can't argue with $6 free shipping though.
 
you all inspired me, had to try, always wondered.........................
IMG_20140824_011708.jpg
 
Don't know then. Do know Tamiya's got long-standing rep for model kit (plastic cars, planes, ships, mecha) builders. They also produce their own paint too.

Can't argue with $6 free shipping though.

Yea I know tamiya, I have one of there rc drift cars plus quite a few f1 models from them. $6 is a bloody bargain though, gonna have to pick some up.
 
Here is one I am working on. I apologize for the poor resolution, it was taken on an iPhone. I am currently making graphics and am about to touch up the lines. Then I'll add the lights. But here is an idea of what it will look like. *Note: that "v" shape on the car is a dog hair. I just now realized that it was there :lol:
fiat stage 1.jpg
 
Decided to repair the grill of the Escort i'm working on. About four hours later.. it broke off as i was stupidly drilling recesses for the headlamps.. :banghead: That's the fourth time now. I don't know why i thought it was a good idea, drilling whilst the chassis was fitted to the body was a real stoopid decision.

Another tip when working with putty.. have bags of patience. :lol:

Anyway a couple of pics of the damaged car. Considering doing the front again. *sighs*



BTW, The poorly applied masking tape, is just there to get an idea of what it will look like once primered. There was too much contrast between the zamac and putty, is the reasoning behind it
 
Cumpliment for you, @Nessy: I showed the pic to Ahmed and he thought it was the Corgi casting, albeit severely modified. When I told him it was actually pretty much all hand-made, he was properly blown-away.
 
Cumpliment for you, @Nessy: I showed the pic to Ahmed and he thought it was the Corgi casting, albeit severely modified. When I told him it was actually pretty much all hand-made, he was properly blown-away.
Not sure whether Ahmed still ventures on here, but tell him thanks! from me bud. 👍
I'm aiming to get it close to the Corgi casting (although it's not exactly the same), and to hear Ahmed thought it was the Corgi casting has made my day. :D
 
So since the Facebook group folks in general aren't nice enough to share knowledge, I went and ordered aluminum tubes at sizes 5/16", 8mm, 9mm and 10mm to do custom wheels. Now I just need to find rubber tubes for tires.


I really hope you meant "compliment".

Let us know what rubber you use if you don't mind.
 
So since the Facebook group folks in general aren't nice enough to share knowledge, I went and ordered aluminum tubes at sizes 5/16", 8mm, 9mm and 10mm to do custom wheels. Now I just need to find rubber tubes for tires.

I need to get some of those myself. I've experimented with heated and stretched vinyl power cord, and put them on the HW watanabes. It gives the wats a real stretched look, and takes away the slightly too ballooned standard HW affair (imo), although i find the stretched look doesn't suit every kind of car.

Another solution i'm considering/actually in the process of doing, is to go with a metal tyre..
I plan on just painting the metal with some Tamiya rubber black.

TLV Porsche 911 (early WIP):








For what i plan on doing, it's essential that i use the standard wheel, but i needed to deepen the rim. So iv'e used some polyurethane spools that i came across a while ago. The wheels fit into the rim almost perfectly - and the rim fits almost perfectly into the metal tyre, they don't quite click into place, but there doesn't appear to be any jiggle. Which means the whole assembly is pretty much centered, and it didn't cost me a thing. *Yay*

This ones going to be a real slow burner as i need to finish other projects first though.
 
Iam having trouble getting milliputt to stick to my cars, I can get the shape perfect then I go to sand and it basically falls of. And I've let it set for like 12hrs and it's rock hard when I first start sanding. Any help would be much appreciated.
 
you want to make it rough enough so it can grab onto the rugged surface. Clay sculptors and workers who do road pavement do the same thing.
 
so do painters, if it shines it wont stick, body men use 80 grit, finish with 180, some putty needs longer cure. got to have a mechanical scratch, something to bite onto like AOS said.
 
Yeah I do it in construction when joing to concrete slabs together I Beleive it's called "bevaling" I didnt think it would be needed on cars as the body contures would help, plus it didnt say that on packet, bare in mind it's my first time using it.
 
Beveling.

The contours on the car make up much less than the smooth surfaces of what the putty is being attached to. And no worries, it may be your first time, but you have experienced people giving you tips.
 
Nope still crap and now iam frustrated as sh17. Whole packet of milliput and looks like one car out of like 10 is going to work. How much do you have to sand back? I've sanded back with 80 grit till is scratched up and shiny, how else can I cut grooves or whatever of I don't have a dremel? So pi55ed man, time wasted for nothing.
 
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