Hypermiling

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1000 km a tank? That would be well impressive!



If the downhill is steep enough and you've got an electronically-controlled engine and are not turning it off, keep it in gear and let the DFCO (deceleration fuel cut-off) do its magic.
Now that you mention it, 6th gear holds speed well, though I actually gain some in neutral which is even better if there is no traffic ahead. Thanks for the tip
 
I seem to catch the hypermiling bug for a few moments after I fill my tank. Coast down hills, ease on the gas, select the highest gear possible, and the trip computer gets me a high score! Then I usually forget all of that the next day, and carry on driving like I usually do; although the move from the stop light-bound grid on massive six-laned arterials to two-lane country roads has increased my fuel economy by about 3-5 mpg. Cooler autumn weather has helped it another 2mpg.

My trip computer is off by about 7%; I drove exactly 300.0 miles between tanks, and both refills were for nearly the exact amount of fuel, which kind of proved the discrepancy I'd thought it had since the beginning. A couple of fellow owners concluded their mpg/trip computers were off about 2mpg.
 
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1000 km a tank? That would be well impressive!



If the downhill is steep enough and you've got an electronically-controlled engine and are not turning it off, keep it in gear and let the DFCO (deceleration fuel cut-off) do its magic.

Got to 1005.:D


Actually about 1035 because the tires are a bit bigger than stock and it does 103 at a gps 100.

Then ran out of gas 200 metres from the gas station.:lol:
Good thing I had a Jerry can with me that trip.
Used 59 litres, not quite as good as I had hoped, I think my gauge just needs some calibration.

Now to find a 1 litre 3 cylinder to stick in it.:P
 
Since starting work, I've actually been a bit fractious with my fuel saving. As of this week I've actually removed the backseats to see if it makes any marginal difference. From what I can tell, it has seemed to have improved it a little, although the route to work has been relatively quiet in comparison, so I'm saving way more fuel than I normally would regardless.
 
Thanks, it's a 2007 Ford Focus hatchback manual. Engine is a bit bigger than what I'd like (2L), but it's a fun car to drive.

Plus it's bright blue.:D
Good car, and the blue is nice if it's the one I'm thinking of. But yes there were smaller engines available for even more economy.
 
Best let @homeforsummer know about this thread, though I forget that's now thrashing cars for a magazine. Sod.

I've just got back into ecomodding having moved from an Alfa to a 2002 1.9 TDI Fabia. 62MPG is my best tank to date, though question of whether that is in any part due to using Shell instead of supermarket diesel (my mate swears by it, forums, briskoda.net in particular, don't agree).

So far I'm at about 75% grill block, but also think the thermostat needs replacing so engine is running cool at the moment. Once that is replaced I'd hope for another 1-2 MPG. Tyre pressures are sensibly raised, and GTechniq G1-4 will be going on over the weekend for that 0.001% gain of using the wiper blades less ;) Underbelly is already pretty well sealed by Skoda (and dimpled), rear could probably do with tidying up.

My current dilemma. Do I get a remap? They start at £175 for a local company, upto ~£300 for a high-end job. While the lower end is more justifiable with (potentially) shorter buy-back period, the higher-end will no doubt offer a better tune.
 
A remap would take a very, very long time to pay for itself in fuel savings.

But it only takes a few blocks to pay for itself in terms of driver satisfaction.
 
I'm uneasy about the term hypermiling as it conjures images of people holding up traffic or doing dangerous things just to save a few pennies.

However, I do drive with economy in mind (while enjoying cars as they're meant to be enjoyed when the mood takes me).

Obviously my car is rather predisposed to economy. I've done about 9500 miles in it since March at an average of around 72mpg imperial, or about 60mpg US. My current tank is over 80mpg imperial, though since my new job started my mpg has gone down due to the commute - high 60s imperial is the norm.

No modifications beyond what the car already offers. Tyres are at 45psi after some experimentation. 35 made the steering feel mushy. 40 was fine, 45 is better without sacrificing how the car grips and handles. 50 is too much - ride and handling deteriorate and the car squirms under hard braking, which isn't pleasant.

Everything feels better when the car is warm though. The tyres are better with some heat in them, and the battery offers more assistance after maybe 30 mins of driving.

I don't do neutral coasting, as it's counter-productive in a car that recuperates energy when you coast in gear. However, under certain braking pressure and in neutral (or under 19mph in neutral) the engine turns off entirely, which is even better. Perfectly safe too - the electrical system maintains steering assistance and the brake servo.

No aero mods either - the Insight has its own :D
 
@homeforsummer - Amazing how living with high pressures makes "normal" pressures seem way too soft, eh? :lol:
It's partly a function of the suspension setup too I think. The steering is weird as it is as there's virtually zero toe and camber and only 2deg of caster. It doesn't self-centre, for example. So with lower pressures it feels even more "sticky" and certainly doesn't coast as well.
 
A remap would take a very, very long time to pay for itself in fuel savings.

But it only takes a few blocks to pay for itself in terms of driver satisfaction.
A 5% improvement would take 2 years to pay back.
A 10% improvement would take just a year.

I think it's reasonable to make somewhere above the 5% gain, as presently the car struggles to cruise at 30 mph in 4th, and 40 mph in 5th. Just less than half of my commute is in the 40-50 region so it would help me stay in 5th the entire time. And I'd be able to go through urban areas in a higher gear too.

It's still a consideration, but the thermostat and door leaks are top priorities!
 
It's partly a function of the suspension setup too I think. The steering is weird as it is as there's virtually zero toe and camber and only 2deg of caster. It doesn't self-centre, for example. So with lower pressures it feels even more "sticky" and certainly doesn't coast as well.

Yikes. No way to take a hammer and, like... pound some extra caster into those front struts? :lol:

A 5% improvement would take 2 years to pay back.
A 10% improvement would take just a year.

I think it's reasonable to make somewhere above the 5% gain, as presently the car struggles to cruise at 30 mph in 4th, and 40 mph in 5th. Just less than half of my commute is in the 40-50 region so it would help me stay in 5th the entire time. And I'd be able to go through urban areas in a higher gear too.

It's still a consideration, but the thermostat and door leaks are top priorities!

I'd say 10% is highly optimistic. 3-5% is possible. Best to have realistic expectations of the additional torque you'll be gettting (helps if the tuner has dynos of cars like yours). The Thermostat is definitely a higher priority. Thermo, tires + tire pressures, aero (door leaks count, there are products now to stuff the gaps between doors... should be worth at least a tiny percent on the highway) and habits will do much more.

But if you can afford a tune... do it. They're wonderful.
 
Got some rough calculations from last week:

Full tank = 4ltrs*
Total distance - 124km

Based on a UK gallon being 4 and a half litres I'd say total MPG is 87 (140km).

I expect if I had a manual clutch I could make a bit more distance. Having an auto centrifugal clutch/gearing (would I call it a clutch?) means even when coasting I'm not at idle until under ~15kph although very little fuel is used at that time (that isn't fact, just what I speculate from the sound and behaviour of the engine when coasting).

*I never run the tank dry so probably had .2 of a litre left in there but that's negligible.
 
Should consider adopting a more aerodynamic riding style:

0.jpg


Illegal drag racers here love this. You shift with one hand, and steer, throttle with the other.

Good luck, uh... steering and stuff.

-

Finally put up the Eco-Run article:


volkswagen_fuel_economy_05.jpg


www.topgear.com.ph/features/feature-articles/sweaty-lessons-we-learned-during-the-2014-volkswagen-eco-fun-run

Could have done much better with a more broken-in unit with less tread on the tires. Still, did what I could to adapt.
 
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Should consider adopting a more aerodynamic riding style:

0.jpg


Illegal drag racers here love this. You shift with one hand, and steer, throttle with the other.

Good luck, uh... steering and stuff.

.

I watched a documentary about those guys. It's big in your country, Malaysia and not uncommon in Thailand.

Not sure it's my thing to be honest, I like to see where I'm going. :lol:
 
Okay so my aim for 2015 is a 1000 km tank. That's 622 miles. 45 litres. 9.9 gallons UK. 63 MPG.

But wait, I already frequently achieve that between refills. So it appears it become a question of how far I'm willing to go down the fuel gauge :grumpy: Current tank, which should be ~66 MPG is currently at 480 miles with 80 left on the trip computer. Hmmmm.
 
Okay so my aim for 2015 is a 1000 km tank. That's 622 miles. 45 litres. 9.9 gallons UK. 63 MPG.

But wait, I already frequently achieve that between refills. So it appears it become a question of how far I'm willing to go down the fuel gauge :grumpy: Current tank, which should be ~66 MPG is currently at 480 miles with 80 left on the trip computer. Hmmmm.

Carry around a jerry can full of fuel, and a funnel. That's what I did for my 1000km+ run.
 
@Bopop4 - I could. But I think the potential for running out of fuel on the motorway, or a hill, is a pretty big issue. And not one I'm willing to entertain. Yet.
 
@Bopop4 - I could. But I think the potential for running out of fuel on the motorway, or a hill, is a pretty big issue. And not one I'm willing to entertain. Yet.

I ran out on the highway, rolled a kilometer away just a few hundred metres short of a gas station.
 
Would it give you the same effect as coasting in neutral to just leave it in gear and apply the clutch? I'm a noob so I have no idea.

I'm just thinking that even if this means you have to keep your foot pressed down, it would allow you to react faster to situations where you might have to accelerate for whatever reason.

And just for the heck of it, I get 25-ish mpg in my 20 year old A4 <,<. Doesn't help that there probably is some sort of vacuum leak somewhere in the engine.
 
Clutch-in, and neutral are the same thing. Sometimes, there'll be a small difference in the revs but it's not a concern.

You shouldn't really be neutral coasting in a situation where you might need to accelerate quickly. You can coast in gear and in many cases it'll be more effective.
 
Would it give you the same effect as coasting in neutral to just leave it in gear and apply the clutch? I'm a noob so I have no idea.

I'm just thinking that even if this means you have to keep your foot pressed down, it would allow you to react faster to situations where you might have to accelerate for whatever reason.

And just for the heck of it, I get 25-ish mpg in my 20 year old A4 <,<. Doesn't help that there probably is some sort of vacuum leak somewhere in the engine.
What Evan said. Though I'm told that you can achieve better MPG by leaving it in gear and not touching the clutch. I'm assuming you put it in neutral on downhill sections to save fuel, right?

Supposedly (in fuel injected cars), the car constantly feeds fuel into the engine while in neutral to make it tick over, but if you leave it in gear, say top gear, and let it roll down hill, the rotation of the wheels themselves helps turn the engine over, because the Engine is now engaged to the clutch.

What this supposedly means is that if you leave it in gear and don't touch any of the pedals, the engine uses no fuel at all.

Don't quote me on it. I could be entirely wrong, but I've been getting more MPG since trying it. I went from 55.1 to 65.4 miles to the gallon average (averages calculated over a quarter of a 10 gallon tank). My commute has lots of uphill (and thus downhill) sections, though, so it's more noticeable.
 
What Evan said. Though I'm told that you can achieve better MPG by leaving it in gear and not touching the clutch. I'm assuming you put it in neutral on downhill sections to save fuel, right?

The engine braking offsets it.
You'll get better mileage leaving it in neutral.

My car uses less GPH in neutral than in gear as well, so it's a double win.
 
Really? Mid '90s Audi not injected? Fair enough. Even my crap 12 year old 1.0L Corsa is fuel injected xD
Actually, I might be wrong. I just went by what someone else told me some time ago, but looking at wikipedia, it seems like all available engines for my car were fuel injected.

Did I mention I was a complete noob? :P
 
The engine braking offsets it.
You'll get better mileage leaving it in neutral.

My car uses less GPH in neutral than in gear as well, so it's a double win.
Also depends on how much engine braking effects your car.

I'm hoping to get some better economy from my car. 35mpg (UK) is pretty rubbish.

With the cruise set to 60 I'm doing 36mpg, but at 70 it's down to 29mpg. Perhaps I'll do a max of 60 on the way back from London instead of 70.
 
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