- 1,011
- UK
- the_greeze
@kejbee: Yes it is. Very comfortable 
@Cliffo_83: I'll see what I can do...
@Cliffo_83: I'll see what I can do...
I think I need a cockpit... (7th November 2012)
- Thread starter the_greeze
- 347 comments
- 71,855 views
Do you have to buy anything extra to be able to mount it? Im a bit confused about what I have been reading about it@kejbee: Yes it is. Very comfortable
- 1,011
- UK
- the_greeze
I just bought the side mounts; very easy.
nice cockpit
would you mind to post the measurements? i don't have any experience working with metal.
so i planned i just give the picture in first page and some measurements to someone who have experience working with metal and have it built.
and, can you post how you mount the handbrake? i follow chilicoke's tutorial but it's not finished..
thanks before
would you mind to post the measurements? i don't have any experience working with metal.
so i planned i just give the picture in first page and some measurements to someone who have experience working with metal and have it built.
and, can you post how you mount the handbrake? i follow chilicoke's tutorial but it's not finished..
thanks before
- 1,011
- UK
- the_greeze
I did all the G25 Shifter mods today (increased spring resistance, stiffen up reverse gear selection and soldered the wires on the pcb for the handbrake) and thank god it still works!
I'm not the most confident solderer so I was pretty nervous about doing it. Glad I did though; using the handbrake is a cool addition. I'm not going to post pics. It's all been covered already (see link below).
Thanks to Chilicoke for the info and guides on his website.
I'm not the most confident solderer so I was pretty nervous about doing it. Glad I did though; using the handbrake is a cool addition.
I'm not going to post pics. It's all been covered already (see link below).Thanks to Chilicoke for the info and guides on his website.
CAMAROBOY69
Premium
- 18,567
- Michigan
- CAMAROBOY69
That turned out great!! Some excellent engineering.
You should add the most recent pics to the very first post as an update so they are easier to find.
You should add the most recent pics to the very first post as an update so they are easier to find.
- 1,011
- UK
- the_greeze
Okay Gents, a few more pictures and a little more info on what I've done and how. Pictures first:
Mounting the centre speaker. I was lucky enough to be able to modify the tv's pedestal stand and use one of the parts to hold the speaker. Simple, neat and effective!
Another view of the speaker...
Oops! I forgot to allow for access to the plug on the back of the tv! Nothing a hole-saw and jigsaw couldn't sort out. D'oh...
The G25 Shifter/Handbrake Mod. Exit point for the two handbrake wires.
Connection to the handbrake.
I used quite a thin-gauge wire for the handbrake mod 'cos those solder points on the shifter PCB are very small. The wire I used I stripped from an old computer VGA cable; there's loads of thin strands in those! I 'tinned' the wires before soldering and used a cheap (£10) 30w soldering iron from Maplin (Radioshack in the US, I think). The iron was perfect; good heat and a small, pointed tip (very important). Great care was taken not to over-heat the components on the PCB!
It all works very well. 👍
@Skymeat: I used two rubber o-rings on the gear shaft 'cos I found that one didn't offer quite enough resistance and I also made the 'packer' for the spring slightly longer at 12mm (.5")
Mounting the centre speaker. I was lucky enough to be able to modify the tv's pedestal stand and use one of the parts to hold the speaker. Simple, neat and effective!
Another view of the speaker...
Oops! I forgot to allow for access to the plug on the back of the tv! Nothing a hole-saw and jigsaw couldn't sort out. D'oh...
The G25 Shifter/Handbrake Mod. Exit point for the two handbrake wires.
Connection to the handbrake.
I used quite a thin-gauge wire for the handbrake mod 'cos those solder points on the shifter PCB are very small. The wire I used I stripped from an old computer VGA cable; there's loads of thin strands in those! I 'tinned' the wires before soldering and used a cheap (£10) 30w soldering iron from Maplin (Radioshack in the US, I think). The iron was perfect; good heat and a small, pointed tip (very important). Great care was taken not to over-heat the components on the PCB!
It all works very well. 👍
@Skymeat: I used two rubber o-rings on the gear shaft 'cos I found that one didn't offer quite enough resistance and I also made the 'packer' for the spring slightly longer at 12mm (.5")
- 1,011
- UK
- the_greeze
@Pingwhen: The Buttkicker is very good, especially since I set up the Yamaha amp and tweaked the LFE settings. It adds some great road and engine rumbles (and crashes too of course!) I'm going to get another one and mount it under the foot/floor board for extra effect (I'll probably set this one slightly lower though).
- 1,011
- UK
- the_greeze
Discovered a weird side-effect relating to wiring up the handbrake yesterday: for some reason, having it wired up stopped the G25 from switching on! The setup worked fine the day I did all the work, went to switch on yesterday and the wheel didn't respond. 
After checking the usual things (fuse, plugs all in etc) I decided to remove the handbrake wires and voila, the G25 was back in action I still don't know why the wheel wouldn't power-up; it's just a simple switch after all...
Anyway, after a bit of head-scratching I mounted a micro-switch in place of the original handbrake switch and everything is operating fine again.
Weird... Any ideas why the original switch caused the trouble? I wired the G25 ground to the ground on the handbrake and the G25 'Circle' button to the other side of the switch. It should have worked dammit!
After checking the usual things (fuse, plugs all in etc) I decided to remove the handbrake wires and voila, the G25 was back in action
I still don't know why the wheel wouldn't power-up; it's just a simple switch after all...Anyway, after a bit of head-scratching I mounted a micro-switch in place of the original handbrake switch and everything is operating fine again.
Weird... Any ideas why the original switch caused the trouble? I wired the G25 ground to the ground on the handbrake and the G25 'Circle' button to the other side of the switch. It should have worked dammit!
- 1,011
- UK
- the_greeze
Time for another update. I got the MDF panels back from the upholsterer today and jeez, they look good!
Anti-scuff aluminium plate fitted.
Mounting point for another (2nd) Buttkicker
This is to mount the PS-Eye (for head-tracking in GT5)
Anti-scuff aluminium plate fitted.
Mounting point for another (2nd) Buttkicker
This is to mount the PS-Eye (for head-tracking in GT5)
- 1,011
- UK
- the_greeze
Really great finish!! 👍 👍 Is it ready now?
lol. Yeah, it's ready (been playable for a while now 👍) Just some minor mods to do:
Handbrake Gaiter.
Add 2nd Buttkicker
Add 'Perfect Pedal'.
Get the PS-Eye mount powder-coated.
...and, er, I think that's it
- 160
- spatulaorama
- emperor of ammo
That is absolute brilliant work my friend. I haven't a clue of how to wire or solder anything to save my life. Right now for the E brake I unfortunately have to resort to using one of the red side buttons on the G25; naturally a very arcade-y feel still.
- 1,011
- UK
- the_greeze
A minor update. Got the PS-Eye camera support powder-coated and fitted to the cockpit and I also (finally) finished off the handbrake!
or at least better focusing. But the rig looks fabulous! 👍
- 1,011
- UK
- the_greeze
- 1,011
- UK
- the_greeze
Mr Latte
Premium
- 5,044
- N Ireland
I really like this and sorry Ive missed most of it.
Particulry easy to see the pride and desire gone into this to make it look good.
Cockpits like yours not only inspire others but they help us all raise our game and own ideas.
Pleasure to read over and see.
One point I would raise and its because I liked your inspiration used for the speaker under the TV and attention to detail including powder coating.
Now it seems almost everyone does the same type of G25 inverted pedals. I ask why do the same, why not go a bit further to improve them.
What about if you spruced up the the bare look from the back with maybe either paint or a back panel for the pedals?
Having the handbrake helps create that professional car type finish but personally for me with the standard G25 it looks a little outta place. What made Chillis stand out was the proper wheel. Id say eventually consider getting a nice real Momo/Sparco steering wheel but also get matching pedal plates and a handle for the gearstick. It would really add that extra level of coolness and Id say better Chillis original design.
Well done...
Particulry easy to see the pride and desire gone into this to make it look good.
Cockpits like yours not only inspire others but they help us all raise our game and own ideas.
Pleasure to read over and see.
One point I would raise and its because I liked your inspiration used for the speaker under the TV and attention to detail including powder coating.
Now it seems almost everyone does the same type of G25 inverted pedals. I ask why do the same, why not go a bit further to improve them.
What about if you spruced up the the bare look from the back with maybe either paint or a back panel for the pedals?
Having the handbrake helps create that professional car type finish but personally for me with the standard G25 it looks a little outta place. What made Chillis stand out was the proper wheel. Id say eventually consider getting a nice real Momo/Sparco steering wheel but also get matching pedal plates and a handle for the gearstick. It would really add that extra level of coolness and Id say better Chillis original design.
Well done...
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- 1,011
- UK
- the_greeze
Thanks for the comments Mr. Latte
You're right about the inverted pedals; I do need to do something with them. I guess I could strip them down and have the metal chassis's powder-coated. In fact, I think I'll do just that! As for the wheel, well, I did get a Momo wheel but I found it to be too big (350mm) for my taste. I may have a look at what 300mm wheels are available at a later date but I'm happy with the G25 if I'm honest.
I'm having all sorts of fun messing about with 2 Buttkickers and a pair of Aura tactile units at the moment. More to follow soon(ish)...
You're right about the inverted pedals; I do need to do something with them. I guess I could strip them down and have the metal chassis's powder-coated. In fact, I think I'll do just that! As for the wheel, well, I did get a Momo wheel but I found it to be too big (350mm) for my taste. I may have a look at what 300mm wheels are available at a later date but I'm happy with the G25 if I'm honest.
I'm having all sorts of fun messing about with 2 Buttkickers and a pair of Aura tactile units at the moment. More to follow soon(ish)...
Mr Latte
Premium
- 5,044
- N Ireland
Thats great to hear.
Maybe try one of the Aura having it mounted to the pedal section and feed it with the CENTRE channel output not LFE. Has worked great for me. You should find engine revs will have a nice tactile response from the throttle and combined with the units at the left/right this will help create an enjoyable added bonus to the cockpit.
The ones at the side are you sending them the LFE or L/R audio?
Whaty all have you been trying?
Look forward to see how you get on and enjoy it mate....
Maybe try one of the Aura having it mounted to the pedal section and feed it with the CENTRE channel output not LFE. Has worked great for me. You should find engine revs will have a nice tactile response from the throttle and combined with the units at the left/right this will help create an enjoyable added bonus to the cockpit.
The ones at the side are you sending them the LFE or L/R audio?
Whaty all have you been trying?
Look forward to see how you get on and enjoy it mate....
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