The BMW M3 E36 goes sideways when braking

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ZEE
I personally havent seen a good improvment, today after testing the update, this update on the physics for me as a controller user has made it harder for me to plant the vehicle compared to before. The cars know behave as if the understeer is king and then you give throttle to correct that and off they go into obilivion.

When I did a Daily race today, I had to put more effort into keeping the car on the straight and narrow at Spa and my lines were mych slower through each corner as I didnt feel confident taking them at speed in the NISMO GT3 car. Took me 3-4 laps in a 5 lap to feel more confident, early days but I dunno. I hope PD listen and dont ignore us players and think everything is hunky dory.

Also I think the BMW M3 '97 is broken in this update the car behaves bizarrely when tuned despite me spending 30mins at RBR trying to fix the damn thing. Under heavey braking, depending on brake baalnce, the car heavily deviates to the left and I enter Barry R!! So odd and should not be happening. I was just shaking the car down and this happened.

I mean I'm no QC game tester.....buttttt....!!


I know im quoting myself but didnt want to repost, so I have the same issue....with my BMW M3.
 
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ZEE
I know im quoting myself but didnt want to repost, so I have the same issue....with my BMW M3.
I've tried several things but driving it is a pain in the ***.

I use the controller as well.
 
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I have my E36s at minimum height. Controller user and default ABS. I just adjusted my threshold braking pressure after a few loose moments around Goodwood. Keeps me on my toes and allows the AI to out brake me at certain corners. Need to be fixed, but I’m working with it.
 
Strange, Haven't had this issue myself with this car when I did my recording here. Default setup, no adjustments.
 
I have noticed it on non race vehicles, especially bad when putting softer tires on, make sure to stop while going in a straight line.
I’ve only ever noticed it with road cars. Braking in a straight line prevents the issue entirely, but easier said than done on some circuits. Fully applying the brakes helps a lot as well. However, there are times where it’s appropriate to only apply the brakes partially and perform subtle steering inputs while doing it. That’s when things can get hairy really fast if you’re not very careful with the inputs.
 
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I found an issue with the new 1997 BMW M3. It doesn't matter if you swap the motor or not. The 97 BMW M3 veers in the direction that you're turning in HARD! I tried to change the settings, and it still has the same problem. Has anybody else ran into the same situation?
 
I found an issue with the new 1997 BMW M3. It doesn't matter if you swap the motor or not. The 97 BMW M3 veers in the direction that you're turning in HARD! I tried to change the settings, and it still has the same problem. Has anybody else ran into the same situation?
Raise the front end by 20mm and try again. increase the natural frequency as well. It sounds like the front wheels are getting trapped inside the arches.
 
I have noticed it on non race vehicles, especially bad when putting softer tires on, make sure to stop while going in a straight line.
So, it actually is physics correctly applied to an abbundance of traction?
If one side of the car is heavier then the other of course it wouldnt go straight. 😱

Just kidding, it shouldnt be to such a degree one can notice and complain about.
 
Anyone else with same problem?

This physics update was a mistake.
It's an old car and a bit twitchy. I managed to tune it so it handles great though.... the only downside is that at 700pp it's very thirsty and I can't manage to do Brands Hatch with only 1 pitstop yet (I haven't fine tuned the gear ratios yet so might get some improvement).

But I managed to totally tune out the catastrophic oversteer that I was getting early on
 
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It's an old car and a bit twitchy. I managed to tune it so it handles great though.... the only downside is that at 700pp it's very thirsty and I can't manage to do Brands Hatch with only 1 pitstop yet (I haven't fine tuned the gear ratios yet so might get some improvement).

But I managed to totally tune out the catastrophic oversteer that I was getting early on
Can you share your car setup?Thanks.
 
Can you share your car setup?Thanks.
Gran Turismo™ 7_20240727114318.jpgGran Turismo™ 7_20240727114329.jpgGran Turismo™ 7_20240727114348.jpg

It's widebodied with bbs alloys and full type a bodykit

Edit: Since I took these pics I've changed the brake balance to 0 (actually removed the brake controller), and the diff to:
initial torque 15
acceleration sensitivity 9
braking sensitivity 22
 
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I found an issue with the new 1997 BMW M3. It doesn't matter if you swap the motor or not. The 97 BMW M3 veers in the direction that you're turning in HARD! I tried to change the settings, and it still has the same problem. Has anybody else ran into the same situation?
Im having the exact same issue. Mine occurred after applying the fully adjustable suspension and tire upgrade to SS. It would all of a sudden veer sharply to either side without steering input 🤣. Im also on a controller and was wondering if the rig users are experiencing the same thing??

Is it only the m3 that’s been affected?
 
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View attachment 1375965
It's widebodied with bbs alloys and full type a bodykit

Edit: Since I took these pics I've changed the brake balance to 0, and the diff to:
initial torque 15
acceleration sensitivity 9
braking sensitivity 14
A few things that may help;
Your rear downforce is very low compared to front downforce. This will make the car more unstable at high speed. Generally rear downforce on road cars needs to be closer to 100 points higher (you can get 300 rear downforce with an ugly GT wing). It's basically causing the car to sit nose-down while at speed, so your wheels may tuck into the arches. I would remove the ballast weight and increase rear downforce, or decrese front. I personally would increase natural frequency, too.

Something else worth mentioning is the wheels. Have you got the wide rim option with the stretched tyres? This may make the wheels more likely to rub the arches.
 
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A few things that may help;
Your rear downforce is very low compared to front downforce. This will make the car more unstable at high speed. Generally rear downforce on road cars needs to be closer to 100 points higher (you can get 300 rear downforce with an ugly GT wing). It's basically causing the car to sit nose-down while at speed, so your wheels may tuck into the arches. I would remove the ballast weight and increase rear downforce, or decrese front. I personally would increase natural frequency, too.

Something else worth mentioning is the wheels. Have you got the wide rim option with the stretched tyres? This may make the wheels more likely to rub the arches.
Hi... That's pretty much all the wing you can put on it without going for one of the GT wings.... I know what you mean about balancing the aero but I was purely going for stats on this one... i.e. it's hard to get to 700pp so I put all the front wing on, and left the rear one like this for looks.

Although it's widebodied you can't alter the offset of the wheels, and I left the rims at standard width.... mainly because it's one of those that stretches the tyres so far the rims protrude, which I don't like.

It handles well like this though. i took it for a spin on the Saint Croix schwarzwald 700pp and won by twenty odd seconds
 
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It's an old car and a bit twitchy. I managed to tune it so it handles great though.... the only downside is that at 700pp it's very thirsty and I can't manage to do Brands Hatch with only 1 pitstop yet (I haven't fine tuned the gear ratios yet so might get some improvement).

But I managed to totally tune out the catastrophic oversteer that I was getting early on
Problem is, that is now how the E36 handles at all. The stock car is anything but twitchy. PD has made an absolute mess of this car sadly
 
The car is not broken or undrivable, it's simply not got a good set-up. Here's a shameless plug for my video that explains what can cause the car to drive like it has a personality disorder and shows some set-up sheets that give it more stable handling, including with 1200hp.

 
The car is not broken or undrivable, it's simply not got a good set-up. Here's a shameless plug for my video that explains what can cause the car to drive like it has a personality disorder and shows some set-up sheets that give it more stable handling, including with 1200hp.


The car is borderline undrivable in stock form in some instances (e.g. high speed at the Nordschleife).
 
The car is borderline undrivable in stock form in some instances (e.g. high speed at the Nordschleife).
I haven't driven it at Nordschleife but I was happily lapping a stock version at Brands Hatch yesterday and did not notice any issues 🤷‍♂️

My guess is that any issues with the stock version at Nordschleife are still covered by @lbpomg95's excellent video. The stock suspension is pretty soft and Nord has some quite extreme bumps and elevation changes; perhaps this is causing the tyres to occasionally hit the wheel arches?
 
I haven't driven it at Nordschleife but I was happily lapping a stock version at Brands Hatch yesterday and did not notice any issues 🤷‍♂️

My guess is that any issues with the stock version at Nordschleife are still covered by @lbpomg95's excellent video. The stock suspension is pretty soft and Nord has some quite extreme bumps and elevation changes; perhaps this is causing the tyres to occasionally hit the wheel arches?
It's not possible for the tyres to hit the wheel arches in stock form. The suspension (as with any car) is designed to prevent that from happening.

The fact that is does in GT7 means they have gotten something wrong with the physics modelling.
 
It's not possible for the tyres to hit the wheel arches in stock form. The suspension (as with any car) is designed to prevent that from happening.

The fact that is does in GT7 means they have gotten something wrong with the physics modelling.
I don't pretend to understand how these things work but could it not be a problem with the stock suspension settings, rather than the underlying model?

Edit: and I think we should be clear that this is not unique to the latest update. There were cars in the previous model that exhibited some very strange behaviour with stock settings.
 
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I don't pretend to understand how these things work but could it not be a problem with the stock suspension settings, rather than the underlying model?
No. There are no "settings". Stock suspension is stock suspension. It's the way that suspension is modelled dynamically which is the issue (ie the model has it doing things it is not physically capable of doing)
 
No. There are no "settings". Stock suspension is stock suspension. It's the way that suspension is modelled dynamically which is the issue (ie the model has it doing things it is not physically capable of doing)
I see. Presumably they still have to plug some numbers into the model for this specific car?
 

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