II-zOoLoGy-II
(Banned)
- 2,713
- F YOU
Video build walkthrough from the guys at ISR featuring the rig originally designed and built by "SIMUL8R."
Inside Sim Racing DIY PVC Rig sub $200
- Thread starter II-zOoLoGy-II
- 7 comments
- 8,562 views
- 856
- Chesterfield, MI
Thanks!
I've been looking for better plans to this. Good review, answers alot of questions I had about this setup.
I've been looking for better plans to this. Good review, answers alot of questions I had about this setup.
Last edited:
- 3,446
- GTP_Coxis
- Coxis
Not trying to be a basher here but they made some choices I disagree with...
I'm not a PVC cockpit expert but I did build my own out of this material. You can see it in my signature link.
1- They're using C-Clamps for the wheel mount, pedal plate and seat plate. In my opinion, the C-Clamps are good for the wheel mount and seat plate only. Depending on the angle you want your pedal plate in, which in my personal preference shouldn't be too steep, U-Clamps are better, as it allows the pedal plate to hang down from the front PVC assembly, rather than sit up on it, like the guys at ISR chose to do. See a pic of my C-Clamped pedal plate here to compare with ISR's.
2- They're using self-tapping screws on their C-Clamps, rather than bolts. Doing so brings up a few concerns... You won't be able to assemble and reassemble everything many times or you'll risk ruining the hole threads to a point where you won't be able to tap the screws back in. It's also a no-no since you won't be able to fully paint the PVC frame. I used bolts and nuts for mine, since that means I get to assemble it and disassemble it as many times as I want. My rig is on the 2nd floor, and it may not look it, but these rigs can get quite heavy!
3- The wheel mount plate doesn't have any support other than a single PVC pipe. This is good because it allows you to actually change your wheel mount's angle (which mine does not) but, when using C-Clamps with self-tapping screws the board will not be as tight compared to using bolts, so I imagine a heavy wheel like the T500RS and a heated racing session might get the plate to come loose by accident mid-race.
4- Why on earth did they get Jessica to host this? I mean I don't complain, I get to look at her butt throughout the show
but she just isn't the right choice for this kind of show. The one piece she glued didn't fit the frame correctly and she was more worried about getting glue on her nails than anything else.
All in all I've really enjoyed these past 2 DIY shows. It encourages people to build their own rigs and go for it, especially for less-DIY oriented people like I myself once was. 👍
I'm not a PVC cockpit expert but I did build my own out of this material. You can see it in my signature link.
1- They're using C-Clamps for the wheel mount, pedal plate and seat plate. In my opinion, the C-Clamps are good for the wheel mount and seat plate only. Depending on the angle you want your pedal plate in, which in my personal preference shouldn't be too steep, U-Clamps are better, as it allows the pedal plate to hang down from the front PVC assembly, rather than sit up on it, like the guys at ISR chose to do. See a pic of my C-Clamped pedal plate here to compare with ISR's.
2- They're using self-tapping screws on their C-Clamps, rather than bolts. Doing so brings up a few concerns... You won't be able to assemble and reassemble everything many times or you'll risk ruining the hole threads to a point where you won't be able to tap the screws back in. It's also a no-no since you won't be able to fully paint the PVC frame. I used bolts and nuts for mine, since that means I get to assemble it and disassemble it as many times as I want. My rig is on the 2nd floor, and it may not look it, but these rigs can get quite heavy!
3- The wheel mount plate doesn't have any support other than a single PVC pipe. This is good because it allows you to actually change your wheel mount's angle (which mine does not) but, when using C-Clamps with self-tapping screws the board will not be as tight compared to using bolts, so I imagine a heavy wheel like the T500RS and a heated racing session might get the plate to come loose by accident mid-race.
4- Why on earth did they get Jessica to host this? I mean I don't complain, I get to look at her butt throughout the show
but she just isn't the right choice for this kind of show. The one piece she glued didn't fit the frame correctly and she was more worried about getting glue on her nails than anything else.All in all I've really enjoyed these past 2 DIY shows. It encourages people to build their own rigs and go for it, especially for less-DIY oriented people like I myself once was. 👍
- 3,195
- tribolik
Not trying to be a basher here but they made some choices I disagree with...
I'm not a PVC cockpit expert but I did build my own out of this material. You can see it in my signature link.
1- They're using C-Clamps for the wheel mount, pedal plate and seat plate. In my opinion, the C-Clamps are good for the wheel mount and seat plate only. Depending on the angle you want your pedal plate in, which in my personal preference shouldn't be too steep, U-Clamps are better, as it allows the pedal plate to hang down from the front PVC assembly, rather than sit up on it, like the guys at ISR chose to do. See a pic of my C-Clamped pedal plate here to compare with ISR's.
2- They're using self-tapping screws on their C-Clamps, rather than bolts. Doing so brings up a few concerns... You won't be able to assemble and reassemble everything many times or you'll risk ruining the hole threads to a point where you won't be able to tap the screws back in. It's also a no-no since you won't be able to fully paint the PVC frame. I used bolts and nuts for mine, since that means I get to assemble it and disassemble it as many times as I want. My rig is on the 2nd floor, and it may not look it, but these rigs can get quite heavy!
3- The wheel mount plate doesn't have any support other than a single PVC pipe. This is good because it allows you to actually change your wheel mount's angle (which mine does not) but, when using C-Clamps with self-tapping screws the board will not be as tight compared to using bolts, so I imagine a heavy wheel like the T500RS and a heated racing session might get the plate to come loose by accident mid-race.
4- Why on earth did they get Jessica to host this? I mean I don't complain, I get to look at her butt throughout the show
All in all I've really enjoyed these past 2 DIY shows. It encourages people to build their own rigs and go for it, especially for less-DIY oriented people like I myself once was. 👍
I agree with most of what you say except for the pedal plate part... dont forget you have the seat higher than theirs wich sits almost on the ground tubes... the less high the seat has the more the pedal should be steep IMO (even in your seat they dont seem steep enough for my personal taste)
- 3,446
- GTP_Coxis
- Coxis
Good point about the low seat and the pedal rake, I hadn't considered that. 👍
If you look at my cockpit topic, you'll see I don't need a higher angle for my pedals as they're ECCIs and they pivot from above, rather than from below. If I had Clubsports or G27 pedals, I'd increase the pedal plate angle by cutting the pedal plate board to make it shorter, thus increasing the angle a little bit.
If you look at my cockpit topic, you'll see I don't need a higher angle for my pedals as they're ECCIs and they pivot from above, rather than from below. If I had Clubsports or G27 pedals, I'd increase the pedal plate angle by cutting the pedal plate board to make it shorter, thus increasing the angle a little bit.
they need little plate angle indeed.
Similar threads
