Greyout
Extreme values WILL throw off the car, and they do in the game - but not as they should!
Once again, the "extreme" values at each end of the spring rate slider ARE NO WHERE NEAR a rate that is "extreme" in real life. The softest setting is still stiffer then a stock spring, and the stiffest setting is a fraction of what many production cars run. Its one of only TWO sliders that have actual values associated with it, (the other is camber) so you'd think that the values listed had SOME attempt at accuracy.
plenty of people have run 8F / 12R, then 12F / 8R, and noted that the car behaves backwards. those are not extreme settings.
People are looking for way to have the car setup "just right" in order to prove that PD is correct. They are taking the stiff rear / soft front, and messing with EVERYTHING else (sway bars, shocks, driving method, or saying "you've gone too far") in an attempt to FORCE the car to behave the way the spring rates dictate it should.
Well all thats BS. If you've got 1200lb/in springs in the rear, 350lb/in springs in the front, assuming that your damping is SOMEWHERE in the same ballpark as it should be (and its apparent that the scale adjusts automatically, so thats not an issue), then you're going to get MORE OVERSTEER. It does not matter if you drive smoothly or not, it does not matter if you've got a degree of toe in or out, or if you've got 50lbs of ballast on one end or the other, or if your camber is dialed in just right. Those spring rates will cause the car to exibit relatively much more oversteer, compared to the reversed spring setup.
The "make small adjustments" argument is BS also. You want to add 0.3 kg/mm to the spring rate? WTF is that? They don't even manufactuer spring rates with such a small difference! If you add 0.3kg/mm and notice a small difference, adding 3.0 kg/mm will make a bigger difference! And more importantly, adding 6kg/mm will make an even bigger difference, not send the car into the 4th demention where logic & physics do not apply, and suddenly the FWD car with the iron-solid front suspension and the wet noodle rear suspension is drifting through the corners at full throttle.
I still think driving style has a LOT to do with it. If I go drive any car around like an arse, it pushes the entire time. Do you drive around in your real life car at full throttle, full brake and full steering around each corner you come to?
If you finesse the game controller a bit, stay ONLINE and drive as you would in a REAL car the cars handle remarkably realistic for a game. I'm hoping this is even better with the DFP (I'm using DS2).
Not clear on your "adjusting automatically" comment for the dampeners, could you please elaborate more on this for me?
Your .3 vs 3.0 vs 6.0 comment was a typical if more is good, too much is better.
Why not just put the largest cam in your motor you can possibly fit inside the valve cover/block or where ever it is on your paticular car? Do you also believe those "racing" stickers make your car go faster? (Not directly aimed at you, just trying to make a point.)
What are the values EXACTLY. Only PD knows for sure at this point. You said it yourself, "It has values associated with it...". That doesn't necessarily mean they are comparable to a real life spring rate (obviously they are not). So why would you think that each smallest increment couldn't be a normal (I use normal loosely) spring rate change? They have obviously done whatever they wanted to with little regard to actual real life settings. They have given the cars settings to make them handle realisticly for the game/simulation. Do you think the Pescarolo C60 really has 12.0kgt/mm front springs and 13.5kgt/mm rear springs in real life?
For instance...
Maybe PD's default setting is a basic average spring rate for that type of vehicle and drivetrain lay-out and each click is like 50lbs + or - if you tried to compare it to a real life car. That would make a 1.0 spring rate change on the game of 500lbs on a real life car. Anyone here ever add 500lb stiffer springs to their car? There will be an "extreme" difference in handling I can
ASSURE you. I am not saying this IS what PD did, I'm just trying to provide an example to show
a possibility of what
might be going on.
Maturin
Try playing the game first. Then talk.
You have a serious attitude problem. 👎
I have 80 golds, 34 completed missions, 424 cars in my garage, submissions on several different OLR spot races and 2250+ days under my belt.
What have you got?
Maturin
Er....ONE click does the trick on the settings. It's progressive from the CENTER of the settings on out, for every car, in every situation. Extreme tuning doesn't affect it anymore than any other setting.
I'm sorry to have point this out to you directly, but I think it comes down to driving ability or your lack of it. I have no problems until I get way off of the default settings. Small increments work fine for me the way they are supposed to. (I'm using a DS2 with default settings and the NTSC-NA version for reference)
Bad760
Saying all that I have found GT4 a lot more fun than GT3 because the cars react in a far more realistic way to my steering and throttle inputs, and I have been able to tune my cars quite effectively
This is definitely how cars are in the real world, some cars are infinitely tunable and some cars are not.
Take for example the 911 Porsche, it has taken Porsche 30-40 odd years to get the car to a point where most normal people (ie. not racecar drivers) can drive the car fast on the road and not be scared ****less that it will bite them in the ass if they make one small mistake
I couldn't agree more. 👍
My 1965 911 (1st production year) would swap ends if you blinked an eye during a "spirited" turn. My 1978 911 was MUCH more driver friendly, but would still seriously bite you if you let it. My 2000 911 I drove at Thunderhill Raceway was a pure tossable delight. I had to double check to see if it was actually still RR.
Greyout
so your experience with your remoted controlled car negates decades of published findings from hundreds of professional automotive sources?
When was the last time you read about them changing the spring rates by 500-1000ft/lbs in any given car to "adjust" it? They generally start with a "close" spring rate from their years of experience for that paticular vehicle and application and adjust it from there because they already know that "extreme" tuning is usually pointless.
Greyout
Start with both spring rates in the upper regions of the slider (not full...) and each lap, remove 0.5 kg from the rear. Progressively, as you get softer and softer, the rear loosens up more and more, until you EVENTUALLY get to the extreme ends of the slider, and the soft rear is hanging out like a dorifto champion!
Why would you change to "the upper regions of the slider" from the start?
Do you think their default settings are so terrible that you must instantly drastically change their settings? (I may be reading/interpreting this wrong, if so I apologize and will comment again when I do.)
Bad760
I will note tho that it would settle down if I used a small amount of brake, I don't know if this is true to life as I haven't driven a 911 myself, so maybe someone who has had the balls to try that in their real 911 could tell me
In a 911 of that era.... Lifting + Braking (while cornering hard) = SURE DEATH!