Liam's NA Miata - Finally back on the road!!!

As far as I know they are the same thing. A lot of places on the net will confirm this. They distribute power evenly to the wheels when going straight and worked more like and open around bends, but not quite to that extreme.

Matter of fact, GM actually called it a limited slip diff on a lot of order sheets for older cars.

When people say "put a posi in it", they usually mean some kind of limited slip rear end. It's basically a slang word made up by GM for LSD.
 
As far as I know they are the same thing. A lot of places on the net will confirm this. They distribute power evenly to the wheels when going straight and worked more like and open around bends, but not quite to that extreme.

Matter of fact, GM actually called it a limited slip diff on a lot of order sheets for older cars.

When people say "put a posi in it", they usually mean some kind of limited slip rear end. It's basically a slang word made up by GM for LSD.

Hmm.. if that's true then I re-tract my previous statement and apologise - however as far as I was aware they did work in a different way causing both wheels to spin at the exact same rate at all times like a welded/shimmed differential does.
 
A fully locked diff isn't a great idea in a road car anyway. Differentials are there for a reason. A locked one is great when you're going sideways around corners, not so great when you're trying to park at the local Wal-Mart and your car is whining and clanking as the diff tries to make both wheels spin at the same speed. Even some LSDs can be a bit temperamental but as a rule you'll not know most are even there until you're really on it.
 
A fully locked diff isn't a great idea in a road car anyway. Differentials are there for a reason. A locked one is great when you're going sideways around corners, not so great when you're trying to park at the local Wal-Mart and your car is whining and clanking as the diff tries to make both wheels spin at the same speed. Even some LSDs can be a bit temperamental but as a rule you'll not know most are even there until you're really on it.

Ahh.. the signature sound of a KFC drive thru...



0:28 when the fun starts.
 
A fully locked diff isn't a great idea in a road car anyway. Differentials are there for a reason. A locked one is great when you're going sideways around corners, not so great when you're trying to park at the local Wal-Mart and your car is whining and clanking as the diff tries to make both wheels spin at the same speed. Even some LSDs can be a bit temperamental but as a rule you'll not know most are even there until you're really on it.
It's not a fully locked differential though. That would be buying a locker or welding the spider gears (I DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS).
 
There is an LSD with the whole rear subframe for around 600 bucks in my area. I have thought about doing it and would really like to, just concerned about how hard it will be. I would much rather just replace the diff.
 
There is an LSD with the whole rear subframe for around 600 bucks in my area. I have thought about doing it and would really like to, just concerned about how hard it will be. I would much rather just replace the diff.

It's a piece of piss mate, as long as you have a friend to help out :)

Simply swapping the diff is just a handful of bolts and out she pops so that's even easier than a whole rear subframe swap - however doing the full swap will freshen up your rear end and it's not that much harder.
 
Changing a set of differential gears takes a half hour if your know what your doing, if that.


That also if you don't break any bolts. No fun trying to drill them out and tap the hole in the differential housing itself, been there done that.

Not sure what kind of rear ends these have though. I am assuming they are semi float style rears with C clipped axle shafts. If they are, you'd definitely be able to do it. Full float rear ends common on heavy vehicles are a tad more difficult. I'm pretty postitive this has a c clip rear.



Don't worry about a full subframe right now. Your car doesn't need it right yet.
 
Changing a set of differential gears takes a half hour if your know what your doing, if that.


That also if you don't break any bolts. No fun trying to drill them out and tap the hole in the differential housing itself, been there done that.

Not sure what kind of rear ends these have though. I am assuming they are semi float style rears with C clipped axle shafts. If they are, you'd definitely be able to do it. Full float rear ends common on heavy vehicles are a tad more difficult. I'm pretty postitive this has a c clip rear.



Don't worry about a full subframe right now. Your car doesn't need it right yet.
No offense dude, but I'm not sure why you are trying to help when you know nothing about these cars. Old Ford terms and knowhow don't work here.

In a Miata, changing he differential (with carrier) is so simple a caveman can do it. (see what I did there) Make sure you know what car it came from though so you can understand what you are getting ratio wise and LSD wise. Because you have a 1.6L, you will need to find another 1.6L with LSD to do a straight swap. If you want a bigger ring gear for added strength and possibly a better LSD and ratio, you'll need to get a '94-05 setup. That includes the differential and housing, the carrier, the propshaft and both driveshafts (axles, halfshafts, CV axles, whatever). All this bolts right in, no modifications necessary.

This shows all you need for a 1.8 diff swap:

97Miatarear.jpg
 
Knowing about one car and knowing how to repair cars basic principles are 2 different things. Just because I don't know a design of what part or what one specific vehicle uses doesn't mean I havne't worked on something like that off a different vehicle before :lol:


Pretty neat that the differential and the carrier are all one piece though, or least that way to swap it out. That's a neat touch.


I'm sort of confsued as to why it matters what engine a car had the new parts are coming from though. Is there a difference as to how it bolts in or?
 
This shows all you need for a 1.8 diff swap:

97Miatarear.jpg

This would be my recommendation as you can get a newer item and pre-emptively change your driveshaft and axles before age and general wear and tear get to them in any way - rubber perishes after all and it appears your car was sitting for some time!

Pretty neat that the differential and the carrier are all one piece though, or least that way to swap it out. That's a neat touch.

I.. how exactly are Ford's designed? even with Nissans there are just 6 bolts holding a differential in bar removing the shaft and axles..

I'm sort of confsued as to why it matters what engine a car had the new parts are coming from though. Is there a difference as to how it bolts in or?

Yes.
 
Depends on the axle really. Most of Fords solid axles are quite simple. GM, Mopar, Dana, Rockwell, Strange and plenty of other companies are the same. Some are semi float with c clip installed shafts...basically the shafts run in 2 long axle housings to the wheel asembly and then the differential in the center. The gear set is in there, The driveshaft connects to the yolk protruding from the carrier, and the yolk inside latches to the gearset by the pinion which is a shaft with a small gear on it. This attaches to the ring gear. On an open rear end there is a set of spider gears held in with a pin. The ring gear is connected to the yolk by a smaller gear; the pinion. The pinion shaft on that that goes into the yolk held together by splines which are little groves in the shaft. The ring gear is attached to the spider gears held together by a larger pin in the center. The axle shaft splines line up with the spider gears rotating around driven by the ring gear and are held in from sliding out by 2 c clips, one per shaft, that pull up next to the spider gear housings and somethings locked into place by a pin. When the pin slides out taking it apart (there's a nice bolt that holds it in from sliding out on its own and destroying the gears), hope that spdier gears don't fall apart because that's a PITA to put back together haha.

In the case of a 9" that whole pinion/yolk assembly comes right off the back. On most other axles you can access the gears by taking off the front cover.

Full floaters are different as they don't use c clips to hold the shafts in, they use a set of bolts on the wheel/tire end of the shaft to hold the shaft in place. This is actually better because if a clip breaks on a semi float you run the risk of the entire shaft coming right of of the axle housing. They hold a lot more weight because of this.

This is a diagram of a Dana 60 axle. With the exception of the Ford 9" rear, just about all American solid axles of the semi-float design are set up like this. You can find this in trucks and muscle cars of all times, across all brands.

225681-1000-0.jpg





Looking at R16's image again it appears to me that it it has an IRS system, which I knew but figured you should easily be able to pull the cover and pull the gears out, which I guess isn't so.

Kinda max the whole process a tad more complex I suppose, but not too bad. I think Liam will get it :D
 
You can swap the gears, but the question is why? Doing a complete swap with carrier, etc is so much easier. I said what I said before because even though you are determined to help it seems like it's almost always the wrong answer. I know these cars down to their last nuts and bolts, and it seems I have to keep correcting you on things.
 
So it super easy eh? Thats a relief, honestly having the open diff is quite annoying, I hate one wheel peels.

So I am going to hold off on the wheel for now, main reason is to save some money, I hardly have any money saved since I bought my Miata (she needs a name).

I get paid this Friday, so I will be making smaller purchases, and finally getting a wheel alignment. I was thinking about doing a custom wheel alignment with FMs setup, miata owner at my local car meet said he has, and it has made the car so much fun to drive in stock form!

Also really want to start on my rust problem, I have been procrastination actually lol, I know I shouldn't, just the idea of cutting pieces off my car is daunting. I have know no idea what I am doing. It has rained here recently, so once we get a dry patch of weather I will get cracking on it.
 
Let me actually list this out so you know what you need for the diff, my last post didn't cover it 100%:

1.6L open diff to 1.6L LSD you need:
  • LSD differential with case (you can re-use the aluminum carrier)
  • LSD cv axles
1.6L cars came with 4.30 final drives.

1.6 open diff to 1.8L LSD you need:
  • LSD 1.8L differential with case and carrier
  • LSD 1.8L cv axles
  • 1.8L driveshaft (propshaft) for manual transmission car (AT is different)
1.8L cars came with 4.30, 4.10 and 3.90 final drives.

Be careful buying the 1.8L stuff separately, the Mazdaspeed CV axles will not work in a regular 1.8L diff. (they are larger)
 
The OEM LSD on these cars are pretty weak anyway. I don't have an issue with mine in the rain at all even on R Compound tires. It certainly does make the car more fun in the dry however. Rotates easier.
 
You can swap the gears, but the question is why? Doing a complete swap with carrier, etc is so much easier.
See it's not the case on half of the other cars out there, at least in my experience.
 
The OEM LSD on these cars are pretty weak anyway. I don't have an issue with mine in the rain at all even on R Compound tires. It certainly does make the car more fun in the dry however. Rotates easier.
I never had an issue with my open diff in the mountains, but during track days and/or autocross I would actually disconnect the rear sway bar to help keep the inside tire planted for tight turns.
 
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You should call her April, because that's the month you bought her. ;)

I guess that's her name then, thanks haha.

Let me actually list this out so you know what you need for the diff, my last post didn't cover it 100%:

1.6L open diff to 1.6L LSD you need:
  • LSD differential with case (you can re-use the aluminum carrier)
  • LSD cv axles
1.6L cars came with 4.30 final drives.

1.6 open diff to 1.8L LSD you need:
  • LSD 1.8L differential with case and carrier
  • LSD 1.8L cv axles
  • 1.8L driveshaft (propshaft) for manual transmission car (AT is different)
1.8L cars came with 4.30, 4.10 and 3.90 final drives.

Be careful buying the 1.8L stuff separately, the Mazdaspeed CV axles will not work in a regular 1.8L diff. (they are larger)

Thanks. I'll probably just switch to a 1.6 LSD diff. Where can I find a 1.6 LSD and LSD axles?
 
Sorry for the lack of updates and pictures. My computer is waiting for a new battery, and if I upload photos they just turn sideways. Not many updates, other than I filled up with gas a couple times. Saving some money as well, so not spending a lot on car parts right now.

I did get a DSLR, so the photos will be much better.
 
Sorry for the lack of updates and pictures. My computer is waiting for a new battery, and if I upload photos they just turn sideways. Not many updates, other than I filled up with gas a couple times. Saving some money as well, so not spending a lot on car parts right now.

I did get a DSLR, so the photos will be much better.

Why do people think buying a DSLR magically makes a pro photographer? :lol:

What'd you get?
 
Why do people think buying a DSLR magically makes a pro photographer? :lol:

What'd you get?

DSLR cameras allow for adjustments such as depth of field and more delicate focus control, allowing more creative photography.

However you're correct, much like buying a Ferrari having a better camera doesn't automatically make you better - however it does allow for more creative and objectively better quality photos.
 
DSLR cameras allow for adjustments such as depth of field and more delicate focus control, allowing more creative photography.

However you're correct, much like buying a Ferrari having a better camera doesn't automatically make you better - however it does allow for more creative and objectively better quality photos.

I know, I sell the things for a living. :lol:

I have a DSLM (Sony NEX-F3) myself but theres no point in having one if you don't know how to run it and a lot of people who do buy them tend not to have any form of photography knowledge. Its better to start with a point-and-shoot and learn about composition and other basics before moving up to a more fully featured camera.
 
I know, I sell the things for a living. :lol:

I have a DSLM (Sony NEX-F3) myself but theres no point in having one if you don't know how to run it and a lot of people who do buy them tend not to have any form of photography knowledge. Its better to start with a point-and-shoot and learn about composition and other basics before moving up to a more fully featured camera.

Fair enough 👍 I'm still figuring out the basics with a point and shoot myself and my photos still look rubbish - but I'm of the opinion that they'd at least look a bit nicer with the features offered by DSLRs.

But what would I know I'm an barely even an amature photographer :lol: it's just something I'm enthusiastic and ambitious about but rubbish at.
 
You should see what I can do with an iphone 4, check out my Instagram, @liamkrpage.
I got a Canon Rebel T2i.

All of those are on an iPhone 4? They're better than what I can get on my bridge camera! Followed because awesome photos. :P
 
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