Logitech Driving Force GT Annoying Pedal Problem.

Gejost
I got my DFGT today, my first wheel, and I find it to noisy. I'm not sure if there is something wrong with mine, cause if I compare it with the DFGT in this video (at 3:00) it seems like it:



You can barely hear it, not so with mine. Mine sounds more like that DFG in that video.
Click to expand...


I also thought my DFGT was a bit noisey when i first got it, but as its the first wheel i have used/owned i thought it maybe normal, after watching the video you posted the guy actually says something along the lines of 'its still quite noisey' at about 7:45 so this has now put my mind at rest, had my wheel for over a year now and no pedal problems touch wood!
 
red_five_racer
:grumpy:

Right, I'm sick of this. I bought the Driving Force GT last week and the first time i used it it was fine.

Then, second time i used it i realized the brake pedal doesn't fully disengage. Sometimes it flickeres on and off. Not a lot but just enough to slow me down on the straight. It has continued to be an intermittent problem ever since.

I now have to prop the brake up with my left foot as i drive and it is affecting my times - especially on the twisty tracks!

It is also making me incredibly angry!!!!!

Has anyone else had this problem, it is driving me mad?!!?!?!?
Click to expand...

I have that problem on rfactor. I managed to solve it however by changing some settings (sorry can't remember which) I now have the problem however where I can't get full throttle or brake only about 95%.
 
I have the same problem with the breaks.

I opened mine up, and found what is causing it.


Because there is so much "play" in the mechanics of how it works, it causes the little gear to move just slightly. The sensor has to be in the perfect position, and mine sits about 1/16'' too high. The bracket that holds the sensor in place, has only 1 screw, and its on the opposite side of where the force is applied.

If anyone else has opened up the pedal section, you can see what im talking about.

ps, mine is past the return policy.
 
F.Y.I. I was able to fix my break this afternoon.

Here is what I did.

There is a metal bracket that holds the Potentiometer (little thing that looks like a small electrical motor with three wires coming out of it) in place is a bit too big.

http://oi52.tinypic.com/mju2k8.jpg (side view)

http://oi53.tinypic.com/149p276.jpg (top view)

What I did was cut a very small piece of plastic where the bracket touches. This lowers the potentiometer just enough that the break is no longer being triggered.


The problem is the return spring for the actual pedal causes it to slightly move out of the recess that it hinges on. I tried cutting out some tin to fit, but it just wouldnt work. So I decided to modify the Potentiometer bracket, and it worked.

Good luck.
 
droogkast
Wow,
yet another person with the pedal problem.
Is there actually someone with a DFGT who has had the wheel for like a year and who hasn't had the "brake" problem?
Click to expand...

FTR, I've had my DFGT for over a year with no problems ever. Got me through GT5P.
 
Hey guys hopefully you will be able to help me out.

I bought GT5 today along with a PS3. I also have had a driving force GT for about 1 year. The problem is, and i've gotten this problem before but i can't remember how i fixed it or if i did. There is strange occurances.

For instance when i load GT in, it will sometimes auto move the menu around and auto select e.g. the main mode or settings. The weird thing is that i also have my dualshock 3 charging and when i press the home button on the dualshock and then press it again, whatever i was on in the menu it would act as if i selected it. So its like rpessing the home button the 2nd time acts as an X button.

Any ideas?
 
Hey guys,

It seems to work when i remove any extra controllers, so really I can only have the GT plugged in and it works fine.

Thanks
 
crapp..... my dfgt just got this stupid pedal problem.... just after 400m break test in license a......

and the sponge doesn't help..... i should bought g25....
 
got the pedal and had this problem out of the box. thinking of returning it. however i did try the calibration trick someone mentionned earlier and this seems to have worked! only tested it once last night, but it certainly worked. i tried holdin the pedal to when you can feel something click ( about an inch or two of pressing) hold it like this as the system powers up and goes through the self test calibration, then hold again when the GT5 game starts and the wheel calibrates ( spins around).

it worked for me, played a level i was constantly having problems with and it worked perfectly!

i'll post back if it starts to fail again. but if the deadzone is thr issue, GT5 should be able o patch this problem no?

anyway, good luck!
 
okay it happened again. it seems that if at the start of a race, the break pedal meter shows it's engaged a bit, problem will occur, if pedal shows no usage at the start, then the problem doesn't occur. i want to confirm this, but it also seems that if i exit game and re-enter it seems to work.
 
I've just purchased a DFGT wheel and pedals, and after a few hours of playing, the brake pedal feels like it's broken. It now travels about 1cm with hardly any resistance, then something kicks in. It also seems to "stick" on sometimes, so I have to slam it down and up, or pull it up to unstick it.

I might well try a DIY repair job this evening, as it seems from these forums like this is a design fault which is probably better fixed yourself than just sending for a replacement.

Edit: It seems this sticky break problem is only aparent on GT5, due to it being a bit over sensitive, and not giving enough dead zone for the brake pot. Other forums seem to suggest just holding down the brake pedal slightly during calibration to "work around" the problem. So, is it worth me taking this thing to bits? I am confortable with tools in my hand, but if glitching the calibration works, then I guess I could live with that.
 
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I, too, had the same problem with my DFGT break pedal. I did what subpop posted and it works like a charm. Be careful not to lose any screws or spring, though, otherwise it is a very simple fix.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
noob616
Stick a sponge underneath it, trust me, it works, and makes the brake feel more realistic!
Click to expand...
Did this totally cure the problem for anybody else? I'm testing my Momo pedal in dxtweak with a bath sponge in it. The original problem is gone, but now I can only use 65% of the brake. Then again I only use 50 or 60% pressure with abs off in GT5, so this will have to do for now.
 
I had exactly the same problem on my day old DFGT: brake pedal would slightly stick with my foot completely off it. :(

I couldn't face returning the thing to Amazon for a replacement so I took the back off and had a look to see what the issue was. What became obvious is that the large silver springs that push the pedals up when no weight is on them was not strong enough to push the bake pedal as far as it needed to go.

To solve the problem I gently pulled out the spring from the bake pedal, took a couple of spare bits of small cable insulation and slipped them onto each end of the brake spring (one end of the spring pushes against the base, the other pushes against the pedal).

photo2jl.jpg


This insulation forces the spring a little wider and therefore stops the brake sticking. After putting on the insulation I pushed the spring back into place in the pedal and screwed the back on again.

A couple of days on and the problem now seems to be fixed; I've had no sticking at all with the brake pedal since. I hope this helps anybody else with the same issue.
 
Mr. Boy
Did this totally cure the problem for anybody else? I'm testing my Momo pedal in dxtweak with a bath sponge in it. The original problem is gone, but now I can only use 65% of the brake. Then again I only use 50 or 60% pressure with abs off in GT5, so this will have to do for now.
Click to expand...
I added sponge to my dfgt and I can brake 100% of the brake it feels more realictic.

And yep Logitech will send me new wheel. So now i have 2 DFGT. And the first one i bought for 50e :sly:
 
Hi, I'm new here...
I didn't have the pedal problem on DFGT, it actually works pretty well...
But I'm obsessed by the pedals of G25/27.
And I read someone in the forum used the DFGT cable on G25 pedal, I liked that idea alot.
DFGT Wheel with G25 Pedal, just sounds really cool....
So I bought the G25 pedal from the auction website for a cheap price, and start the modification...
(A recycle shop accidently bought it without wheel inside the box, they were pissed and sold it very cheap..)

I opened the case on both pedal, and putted tag on each wire for memorize purpose, and tried different combination for 3 hours, it wasn't easy.
A little complaint though, the pedal of DFGT is really cheaply made, a little annoying when re-seal the case.
Below is how I managed to got it work, from my memory only..
DFGT Pedal: PCB board> 2,_,H (red wire, white wire, black wire) , 4,_,H (red wire, green wire, black wire)
G25 Pedal: PCB board listed 2a,_,Q, 4a,_,Q.
Clutch is 6a,_,Q, but DFGT cable only support gas, and brake, no clutch...
When I plug DFGT pedal cable on G25 pedal, plug the wires 2,_,H (DFGT) to 2a,_,Q (G25), that is, 2 to 2a, _ to _, H to Q...
In game, you can see the gas, and brake works on the meter, but gas doesn't actually move your car.
Plus,with mal-function in PS3 XMB, by automatical move up, or down continously..

To fix this,
First, switch the red wire around, now 2 to 4a, 4 to 2a...
Now you see the gas works perfectly in game, but no brake...

2nd, why the brake doesn't work?
Easy solution, just reverse the plugs on brake...
From *red wire, green wire, black wire* to the reverse direction on PCB : *black, green, red*....
Now the brake works in game...
Also this fixed the malfuction problem on XMB...
it doesn't keep going up or down automatically anymore...

I tried and test last night for 3 hours, almost gave up...
Hope this helps somebody..
 
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lucifez
Hi, I'm new here...
I didn't have the pedal problem on DFGT, it actually works pretty well...
But I'm obsessed by the pedals of G25/27.
So I bought the G25 pedal from the auction website for a cheap price, and start the modification...
(The recycle shop posted it, they bought it, later found no wheel inside the box, they were pissed and sold it very cheap..)
Even though I putted tag on each wire, it was difficult, but it finally worked...affter 3 hours....
A little compaint though, the pedal of DFGT is really cheaply made, the design is bad, and string not even hold properly, and covered with thin oil..
Below is how I managed to got it work, from my memory only..
DFGT Pedal: PCB does list down 2,_,H (red, white, black) , 4,_,H (red, green, black)
G25 Pedal: PCB listed 2a,_,Q, 4a,_,Q.
Clutch is 6a,_,Q, but I'm not gonna use it, DFGT not supported it in it's board..
When I plug wire 2,_,H (DFGT) to 2a,_,Q (G25), that is, 2=2a, _=_, H=Q...
You can see the gas, and brake works on the meter, but gas doesn't move your car.
Plus,mal-function in PS3 XMB, by automatical move up, or down continously..

To fix this,
First, switch the red wire around, now 2 = 4a, 4 = 2a...
Now you see the gas works perfectly in game, but no brake...

2nd, why the brake doesn't work?
Easy solution, just reverse the plugs on brake...
From *red, green, black* to *black, green, red*....
Now the brake works in game...
Also this fixed the malfuction problem on XMB...
it doesn't keep going up or down automatically anymore...

I tried and test last night for 3 hours, almost gave up...
Hope this helps somebody..
Click to expand...

English please! Lol
 
My brake pedal also says im pushing it when im not. If i push it down a little then its says im not pressing it as much but i can never get it to not brake completely. My question is should i contact logitech and get a replacement? Or should i get g25/27 pedals? Do the g25/27 pedals work with the dfgt and does the clutch work too?
 
Viper acr lover

During your wheels self calibration test, apply a little bit of presssure to your brake pedal. This will apply a bit of deadzone to your pedals to help with this problem.

Basically your potientometers in the pedal have become a bit loose and is causing this problem. The way to fix them is to open the pedal and put them back in place. Of course opening the pedal will void your warranty so its up to you whether you want to fix them yourself or contact logitech.
 
Damn it, seems like this brake pedal bug is a pretty common issue with the DFGT, today's no working anymore, I have to email Logitech and the shop where I bought it. How fun 🤬 .

EDIT:
billy323
Hi i too have had this problem from day 1. The problem is caused by the fact there is no dead zone programmed into the pedals and no dead zone programed into GTP. So they are over sensitive.After some searching i found a solution on the logitech web site. Before and during the calibration routine as GTP is Loading up keep the brake pedal depressed sightly. When the calibration routine zeros the brake pedal you will have in fact put a small deadzone in by holding it down slightly . This seems to rectify it. Pain i know but i think its more a design flaw rather than defect. Hopefully PD will program a deadzone into 5 or at least give us some control.
Click to expand...

Well as usual PD didn't hear us and GT5 doesn't have any deadzone either, but your post makes lot of sense and (at least for now) effectively fixed the problem! So thank you and long life to my Logitech bugged (and fixed during calibration) brake pedal. :lol:
 
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I had the same problem with my brake.. I took my pedal base apart and sprayed the pots with tuner cleaner... worked them back and forth and sprayed them again.... reassembled and they work like new... haven't had any problems since....
 
For me the pedals made me return my DFGT and instead going for the T500 simply because I want a wheel that is supported by GT5.
 

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