Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

Good news for anyone wondering the latest g hub update seems to have fixed the shift lights working in automobilista 2. Drove for a while tonight feeling generally good but noticing a lot of oscillation on straights in cars like the formula usa gen1/2. I turned up dampener on the wheel which helped some, but I remember @LOGI_Rich mentioned the recommended settings for ams2 needed to be updated on the page, it doesnt look like that has happened yet since it still shows g923 mode as recommended and using default instead of default+. Any chance that will be updated or you can post the changes here?
 
super_gt
12.3Nm, but Fanatec has setting called FOR(force effect strength modifier) which if increased from 100 to 120 returns the torque to 14.76Nm(I haven't measured it, but I felt that the steering wheel is heavier in the middle of the corner).
Maybe Logitech also should implement such setting instead of waiting.
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Only potential issue I can foresee with that would be that when peeps switch games, the wheelbase could be asked to output way-more torque than it's capable of.

It might be something that could be addressed in the firmware - if instructions for >x amount of torque are received, nerf the output back to "normal" 'cause it's obviously being used with a game other than GT7.

The FW would then have to be changed again if or when PD de-nerfs the situation.

Sounds like a whole lot more hassle than simply engaging with PD, which AFAIK is something Logi's attempting to do.
 
Monkey Man
Only potential issue I can foresee with that would be that when peeps switch games, the wheelbase could be asked to output way-more torque than it's capable of.

It might be something that could be addressed in the firmware - if instructions for >x amount of torque are received, nerf the output back to "normal" 'cause it's obviously being used with a game other than GT7.

The FW would then have to be changed again if or when PD de-nerfs the situation.

Sounds like a whole lot more hassle than simply engaging with PD, which AFAIK is something Logi's attempting to do.
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It can be made as a new additional setting in the tuning menu with a default value of 100, which will be recommended for all games except GT7, for which the recommended value will be, for example, 130.
If some day GT7 starts using the full torque of 11Nm, the recommended value will become 100 for it as well and the user will have to reduce it from 130. There will be no need for a new base firmware update.
 
Got my wheel/pedal set yesterday and when I was setting it up had something weird happen. The wheel would connect to my PS5 fine (GT7) but during game play it would not register me turning the wheel. It does however register everything else. Pedals, button inputs, etc. The other thing was that the FFB seemed to work fine (I'd get resistance) initially but the minute I booted up GT7 the wheel would go "limp". At first I thought it was a busted unit and started the game over as well as the wheel. I had an extender USB that I was using in between the wheels cable and the PS5 and took that off and shortly after it worked fine. Just seemed odd and not sure if anyone's had a similar issue?

Other than that the initial returns are incredible. I do wish the brake travel was a little less but I'm guessing I can fix that with the pieces given to me in the box.
 
@TheOneDonJuan

There have been several people reporting that issue, including myself. I guess it's a bug in GT7 since this does not happen in other games on the PS, Xbox or PC. I don't know if anyone has had an issue during sports mode or not but it seems like the issue happens during single player races (could be wrong on this). I've found that I don't need to restart the game, I just need to unplug the wheel from the PS and restart the wheel to resolve the issue. Luckily it only happens on a rare occasion for me, and hopefully it will be rare for you also.

As for reducing the brake travel, definitely change out the elastometers. I can't remember what color I use, but I use the stiffest ones available in the box. I didn't like how much travel they had stock, so changing them for the stiffest ones made a huge improvement to the feel of the brake.
 
Monkey Man
How can an additional setting be added to the tuning menu without a FW update?
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Sorry, I meant that after "fixing" the GT7 FFB there will be no need for a second firmware update.
Of course, implementing this new setting will require a firmware update.:)
 
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Dankostone
Hello, to use the drivehub with the G Pro wheel, do you need the Hori controller?
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Depends on the version of the wheel that you have and what platform you are going to use.

If you have a PS wheel and plan on playing on PS, you don't need a hori controller. You will plug the wheel into the controller port instead of the wheel port.

If you have a Xbox or PC only version of the wheel and plan on playing on PS, yes you will need a hori controller. The wheel will plug into the wheel port and the hori will plug into the controller port. The hori is needed for it's security chip and the hori controller will not be usable when plugged into the drivehub.

If you plan on playing on Xbox, you will need a Xbox controller.
 
Yes No
Depends on the version of the wheel that you have and what platform you are going to use.

If you have a PS wheel and plan on playing on PS, you don't need a hori controller. You will plug the wheel into the controller port instead of the wheel port.

If you have a Xbox or PC only version of the wheel and plan on playing on PS, yes you will need a hori controller. The wheel will plug into the wheel port and the hori will plug into the controller port. The hori is needed for it's security chip and the hori controller will not be usable when plugged into the drivehub.

If you plan on playing on Xbox, you will need a Xbox controller.
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I have the PS wheel and I play on PS5. It's to bypass the limitation on GT7. Thanks for your response!
 
Yes No
@Tommy moon I'm wondering if you are experiencing these issues due to the way that GT7 changes several settings directly related to the G Pro. Have you tried playing ACC or other racing games that do not put so many limitations on our wheel? I'm also curious if you are possibly changing the max rotation on this wheel... If I recall correctly, it is not recommended to change the rotation to anything other than 1080 degrees for GT7.

I will see if I can try and recreate your issue with going past the friction plate when I get home from work tonight. I know the wheel feels way too light at the capped 72% of the max FFB in GT7... One of the many reasons I use a drivehub. At the full 11nm torque, I find that it has a decent enough amount of FFB torque to keep me from accidently over powering the wheel ... I'm guessing it would be possible to turn past the rotation limit if I was only using the capped 72%, I'll try it out tonight and let you know.

@chandrizzle I have tried maxing out every setting both on the wheel and in GT7, along with using the drivehub for the full 11nm torque and have yet to feel any distortion or clipping with my setup. I'm curious if others have experienced clipping or distortion.
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First I want to thank you. For all your help. I agree clipping is a weird thing with this wheel...but I believe I have figure out my issue.

I think the Genesis of my issues is with the quick release. For example, I had to do a quick correction to avoid snap over stear. When that happens I get a little pinging noise from the spring which then cause the wheel to feel different.

Just happened to me again in a race. The shaft and base and are fine if there's an issue it's with the wheel. Any advice?
 
I have a pre-purchase support question that despite many hours of searching I have been unable to find an answer to. I would be using the G Pro Wheel and Pedals exclusively with a PS5. The software would be GT7 and ACC. My primary purpose for upgrading to this setup would be ABS sensing. I am mostly aware of the benefits of upgrading from G29 with TruBrake mod to this setup. What if any feedback about tire/wheel lockup could I expect to have with the G Pro setup?
Thanks for your time/feedback.
 
Not exactly sure what your specific question is but the load cell brakes are a HUGE improvement over the spring pedals from earlier logitech wheels. If anything you should upgrade the pedals which you can do with the adapter they sell
 
feral and bad
I have a pre-purchase support question that despite many hours of searching I have been unable to find an answer to. I would be using the G Pro Wheel and Pedals exclusively with a PS5. The software would be GT7 and ACC. My primary purpose for upgrading to this setup would be ABS sensing. I am mostly aware of the benefits of upgrading from G29 with TruBrake mod to this setup. What if any feedback about tire/wheel lockup could I expect to have with the G Pro setup?
Thanks for your time/feedback.
Click to expand...
You would need an active brake to get a true(for the most part) feeling of ABS. I think there are currently 2 companies that make them but I do not believe they are compatible with the PS.

I do think that trueforce does a pretty darn good job of haptic feedback so you will (in my opinion) feel the ABS through the wheel. I'd be curious to see what others say about this.
 
feral and bad
I am mostly aware of the benefits of upgrading from G29 with TruBrake mod to this setup. What if any feedback about tire/wheel lockup could I expect to have with the G Pro setup?
Thanks for your time/feedback.
Click to expand...

As someone who has upgraded the G29 pedals to the TruBrake mod (v2), and then to the 3DRap LogiKit (a true load cell and hall sensors), I can tell you the G Pro pedals are miles better in feel and fidelity.

I prefer a pedal with more travel than less, so the increased travel while still being a load cell is a huge improvement. Of course if you want less brake travel the kit has you covered with stiffer elastomers. Trail braking, threshold braking and heel toe (this is where the increased pedal travel was most important) feel much better to me here.

For me an even bigger improvement came in the gas pedal with its better feel and fidelity. With the old Logi G29 pedals I felt it was too finicky and twitchy. Like the brakes, this pedal also has increased travel over the old G2x/92x set.

As for actual feedback in the pedals, there are none. It doesn't have any active FFB. All of the feedback comes from the wheel base, and there is tons more information over the G29 (and T300). I can feel the suspension loading up or the wheels losing traction. Reaction times are much quicker too. TruForce only amplifies the immersion and kinda feels naked when you turn it off. Best of all, even when set at 11nm (most street-based cars in GT7 seem to max out at 9nm avg with DH amplification on, and GT cars feel noticeably stronger/sharper and seem to hit the higher range) I haven't gotten to the point of overheating... yet.
 
tyoungbl
Not exactly sure what your specific question is but the load cell brakes are a HUGE improvement over the spring pedals from earlier logitech wheels. If anything you should upgrade the pedals which you can do with the adapter they sell
Click to expand...
I can't remember how much it adjusts, but I'm pretty sure that the Logitech racing adapter will give you the capability to adjust the load cell pressure on the fly. If I remember correctly, the adapter has a dial on it that goes from 0 to 5 and this used to adjust the load cell pressure.... But again, I'm going off (faulty at times) memory so I could be wrong. You can also adjust the brake pressure by plugging the pedals into a computer via USB and make the adjustment in GHub.

The racing adapter is also needed if you plan on using the current Logitech shifter. The shifter uses a db9 connector but it does not work as a serial cable, so a serial to USB cable will not work. Hopefully Logitech will release a better shifter that is USB at the sim racing expo in October.

I believe the racing adapter sells for around $40 USD on the Logitech website.

Another option is to get a drivehub for about $100 USD and use it to connect the G29 with the G Pro pedals. I have tested it and it works quite well but you will not have any ability to adjust the load cell pressure on the fly (at least at the moment).
 
Yes No
I can't remember how much it adjusts, but I'm pretty sure that the Logitech racing adapter will give you the capability to adjust the load cell pressure on the fly. If I remember correctly, the adapter has a dial on it that goes from 0 to 5 and this used to adjust the load cell pressure.... But again, I'm going off (faulty at times) memory so I could be wrong. You can also adjust the brake pressure by plugging the pedals into a computer via USB and make the adjustment in GHub.

The racing adapter is also needed if you plan on using the current Logitech shifter. The shifter uses a db9 connector but it does not work as a serial cable, so a serial to USB cable will not work. Hopefully Logitech will release a better shifter that is USB at the sim racing expo in October.

I believe the racing adapter sells for around $40 USD on the Logitech website.

Another option is to get a drivehub for about $100 USD and use it to connect the G29 with the G Pro pedals. I have tested it and it works quite well but you will not have any ability to adjust the load cell pressure on the fly (at least at the moment).
Click to expand...
The racing adapter doesn't allow you to adjust brake pressure on the fly with the g pro base/wheel but does on the older logi brakes since they don't have an on board hud like the gpro does. I did pick it up so I can use the shifter but otherwise it serves no function for me
 
tyoungbl
The racing adapter doesn't allow you to adjust brake pressure on the fly with the g pro base/wheel but does on the older logi brakes since they don't have an on board hud like the gpro does. I did pick it up so I can use the shifter but otherwise it serves no function for me
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Oh I thought you can use the dial on the adapter to adjust the brake if you were using something like the G29 wheel with the pro pedals?
 
Yes No
Oh I thought you can use the dial on the adapter to adjust the brake if you were using something like the G29 wheel with the pro pedals?
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Maybe that's it lol. Yeah there is a dial but it doesn't do anything with the full g pro setup other than let you hook up the shifter
 
@LOGI_Rich :
I have ordered the G Pro Wheel + pedals. To my surprise, there has been no receipt nor any kind of confirmation on email. I have now received the pedals, and did get an email from UPS, so that tells me that Logitech must have my correct email. (I have checked my spam.)
I do have my Sales Order number from the packing list I got with the pedals.
Wouldn’t they normally send the buyer an order confirmation and a receipt on email?

Thanks!
 
feral and bad
I have a pre-purchase support question that despite many hours of searching I have been unable to find an answer to. I would be using the G Pro Wheel and Pedals exclusively with a PS5. The software would be GT7 and ACC. My primary purpose for upgrading to this setup would be ABS sensing. I am mostly aware of the benefits of upgrading from G29 with TruBrake mod to this setup. What if any feedback about tire/wheel lockup could I expect to have with the G Pro setup?
Thanks for your time/feedback.
Click to expand...
I used to have G29 + TrueBrake and for about a year, I'm using G Pro. You will get used to the Load Cell very fast almost instantly and you will get much better feeling of the wheel + True Force in both games.

You won't regret upgrading.
 
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IfAndOr
In ACC the FFB gain slider goes all the way up to 200%. I've tried it, you don't get 22Nm out of the wheel. Thankfully. 🙂

@charlie3322 and @AshenGraey next time you get the ticking/twitching, as a test, try going into the wheelbase settings and set the dampener to off and see if the twitching stops.
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Just saying thanks! I tested this for over 4hrs yesterday and I've not had that ticking/twitching issue anymore since I turned off the dampener.
 
AshenGraey
Just saying thanks! I tested this for over 4hrs yesterday and I've not had that ticking/twitching issue anymore since I turned off the dampener.
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Well that's good, same thing happened for Charlie, but you should really be able to set the dampener.


@LOGI_Rich do you think the slight ticking and twitching that can occur after a period of use* is related to the oscillation that used to happen when the wheel came out. The first firmware update cured the oscillation but this twitching still remains at times. Setting the dampener to zero stops it, anything higher (even at 1) sets it off again. It's nice to use some dampener though to give a more realistic feel.
I notice that if I let my wheel rest and cool, it tends to stop. I believe it's on console and PC.
Maybe a future update could fix it entirely?

*I've had it on both my bases too, although so slightly it's never really concerned me
 
AshenGraey
This is my first DD so I'm not that well versed on the matter, what exactly does the dampener do in this system?
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Dampener

A direct drive wheel can be incredibly responsive which might result in some titles feeling like the wheel is moving too rapidly in response to in-game effects. Adding Dampener will help alleviate this and can also help to recreate the sensations you get in a real car where all of the components that contribute to the feeling you get from the steering wheel (tires, suspension, and so on).

Ideally, you should set the dampener as low as possible in order to get the most response from the wheel. However, in some titles you will notice that if you let go of the wheel while on a straight it will quickly start oscillating left and right. Our recommendation is to make sure you keep hold of the wheel at all times when in use. If you do let go and the wheel starts oscillating, then pause the game title first before attempting to take hold of the wheel in order to prevent injury.
Click to expand...
 
AshenGraey
This is my first DD so I'm not that well versed on the matter, what exactly does the dampener do in this system?
Click to expand...
This above post from @morfei1 explains it well. What it basically does is deadens the response from the wheel and gives it a bit of resistance. This helps with DD wheels since they can be very instantly responsive to feedback from the games, becoming sort of digital in feel. The dampener softens those responses smoothing out the peaks.
 
@Trk-el-son Normally you should receive a confirmation email. I'm assuming you checked all junk folders etc. You should also be able to check your account on Logi.com. If not then support can help.

@IfAndOr it's on the investigation list.

@CKU_87 You can usually bolt through using the horizontal slots that are used for changing the horizontal position of the pedal modules. Otherwise, you'll note this point in their compatibility table on the website:
1717420336579.png
 

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