Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

[Dankostone]

Hi @LOGI_Rich,
Isn't it possible to bypass the torque limitation on GT7 with a firmware update like the DriveHub does?

 

[LOGI_Rich]

There's ramifications to that which would need to be investigated. I can't comment on whether that's a path that we would take at this time though, I'm afraid.

 

[Dankostone]

This limitation has been there for a long time. And it's very frustrating to have no news from either Polyphony Digital or Logitech.

 

[LOGI_Rich]

It has been a while, but the correct way of addressing this would be from the game title - I think you can understand that, given that it's the only title which does this. We've therefore been focused on that path.

 

[Newcomer]

It’s definitely a legal gray area for PD to do this, at least within the EU, but I understand Logitech not wanting to put a strain on the relationship by bringing up competition laws.

 

[dude0702]

Does anyone know if you can use the clutch pedal as the brake pedal (instead of the load cell)?

I'm seriously considering the Pro wheel and pedals but worry my messed up knee won't be able to handle the load cell (even at the softest setting).

 

[LOGI_Rich]

It depends on the game title. GT7 doesn't allow you to reassign the pedals, so that wouldn't be an option there. However, remember that you can adjust how much force is required to max out the brake, so there's ways to make it so you won't need to push that hard.

 

[PGXVII]

Just saying thanks! I tested this for over 4hrs yesterday and I've not had that ticking/twitching issue anymore since I turned off the dampener.

I’ve had my wheelbase around 3 months with no problems, but mine started with this twitching at the weekend! Playing ACC on PC, like I normally do - No new game or platform - so I don’t know why it’s started now! I’ll try this zero dampener hack - but we shouldn’t have to be doing that! Did anyone get a response from Logitech on this issue please?

 

[AshenGraey]

I’ve had my wheelbase around 3 months with no problems, but mine started with this twitching at the weekend! Playing ACC on PC, like I normally do - No new game or platform - so I don’t know why it’s started now! I’ll try this zero dampener hack - but we shouldn’t have to be doing that! Did anyone get a response from Logitech on this issue please?

Mine started doing that roughly 3-4 months into my ownership. I don't even use it all that much considering I play for maybe 2-3 hrs per week and sometimes that could be it for a whole month.

As for a response from Logitech, I believe @LOGI_Rich said that it was been investigated. Perhaps something that may get fixed with a future update 🤷‍♂️

 

[Tommy moon]

As someone who has upgraded the G29 pedals to the TruBrake mod (v2), and then to the 3DRap LogiKit (a true load cell and hall sensors), I can tell you the G Pro pedals are miles better in feel and fidelity.

I prefer a pedal with more travel than less, so the increased travel while still being a load cell is a huge improvement. Of course if you want less brake travel the kit has you covered with stiffer elastomers. Trail braking, threshold braking and heel toe (this is where the increased pedal travel was most important) feel much better to me here.

For me an even bigger improvement came in the gas pedal with its better feel and fidelity. With the old Logi G29 pedals I felt it was too finicky and twitchy. Like the brakes, this pedal also has increased travel over the old G2x/92x set.

As for actual feedback in the pedals, there are none. It doesn't have any active FFB. All of the feedback comes from the wheel base, and there is tons more information over the G29 (and T300). I can feel the suspension loading up or the wheels losing traction. Reaction times are much quicker too. TruForce only amplifies the immersion and kinda feels naked when you turn it off. Best of all, even when set at 11nm (most street-based cars in GT7 seem to max out at 9nm avg with DH amplification on, and GT cars feel noticeably stronger/sharper and seem to hit the higher range) I haven't gotten to the point of overheating... yet.

Your not going to get active pedals on PS5 without running simhub through a PC

Got my wheel/pedal set yesterday and when I was setting it up had something weird happen. The wheel would connect to my PS5 fine (GT7) but during game play it would not register me turning the wheel. It does however register everything else. Pedals, button inputs, etc. The other thing was that the FFB seemed to work fine (I'd get resistance) initially but the minute I booted up GT7 the wheel would go "limp". At first I thought it was a busted unit and started the game over as well as the wheel. I had an extender USB that I was using in between the wheels cable and the PS5 and took that off and shortly after it worked fine. Just seemed odd and not sure if anyone's had a similar issue?

Other than that the initial returns are incredible. I do wish the brake travel was a little less but I'm guessing I can fix that with the pieces given to me in the box.

You can adjust brake travel in game in gt7

@TheOneDonJuan

There have been several people reporting that issue, including myself. I guess it's a bug in GT7 since this does not happen in other games on the PS, Xbox or PC. I don't know if anyone has had an issue during sports mode or not but it seems like the issue happens during single player races (could be wrong on this). I've found that I don't need to restart the game, I just need to unplug the wheel from the PS and restart the wheel to resolve the issue. Luckily it only happens on a rare occasion for me, and hopefully it will be rare for you also.

As for reducing the brake travel, definitely change out the elastometers. I can't remember what color I use, but I use the stiffest ones available in the box. I didn't like how much travel they had stock, so changing them for the stiffest ones made a huge improvement to the feel of the brake.

You can adjust the length of travel in game on gt7

 

[PGXVII]

Mine started doing that roughly 3-4 months into my ownership. I don't even use it all that much considering I play for maybe 2-3 hrs per week and sometimes that could be it for a whole month.

As for a response from Logitech, I believe @LOGI_Rich said that it was been investigated. Perhaps something that may get fixed with a future update 🤷‍♂️

Mine started doing that roughly 3-4 months into my ownership. I don't even use it all that much considering I play for maybe 2-3 hrs per week and sometimes that could be it for a whole month.

As for a response from Logitech, I believe @LOGI_Rich said that it was been investigated. Perhaps something that may get fixed with a future update 🤷‍♂️

Thanks, I only use mine for around 4hrs per week, I wonder if this is why it took so long to show itself! I hope they find a a solution as it is irritating - and gives me concerns for its longevity!

 

[JohnRacer46]

Does anyone know if you can use the clutch pedal as the brake pedal (instead of the load cell)?

I'm seriously considering the Pro wheel and pedals but worry my messed up knee won't be able to handle the load cell (even at the softest setting).

This isn't necessary. If you leave the brake pedal stock right out of the box and take the "Brake Force" slider to it's minimum setting of 1kg in G Hub, the pedal becomes a literal on/off switch. It is that easy to press all the way down. Even at 5kg or 10kg it is very easy to press. You'll easily find a comfortable setting.

Personally, I've never messed with changing out elastomers and just gotten used to the stock pedals. I have the slider set to 30kg because I use them on carpet, pressed against the wall under my desk. These pedals are pretty amazing. I'd easily chose them over my old Fanatec V3's based on comfort and performance. Maybe not so much on looks because of plastic vs metal but that's not to say the Logitech's are weak in any way. They put a lot of thought into these pedals and really kept both rig and desk racers in mind when designing them.

 

[Kruse]

It’s definitely a legal gray area for PD to do this, at least within the EU, but I understand Logitech not wanting to put a strain on the relationship by bringing up competition laws.

Does anyone know if the new GT-branded Fanatec wheel also has similar torque limitations? Because if not that has antitrust lawsuit written all over it.

Edit: almost coming up on two years and no shifter or accesories 🙁

 

[Oshawa-Joe]

Does anyone know if the new GT-branded Fanatec wheel also has similar torque limitations? Because if not that has antitrust lawsuit written all over it.

Edit: almost coming up on two years and no shifter or accesories 🙁

Apparently there is some sort of show or event happening in October and the rumor from a reliable source (logisomething) is that there will be one or two (a few?) Accessories announced.
Don't waste your time or money on anything released third party.

 

[Tommy moon]

It depends on the game title. GT7 doesn't allow you to reassign the pedals, so that wouldn't be an option there. However, remember that you can adjust how much force is required to max out the brake, so there's ways to make it so you won't need to push that har

Apparently there is some sort of show or event happening in October and the rumor from a reliable source (logisomething) is that there will be one or two (a few?) Accessories announced.
Don't waste your time or money on anything released third party.

Yes...Logitech is a main sponsor. LogiRich will you be there?

 

[LOGI_Rich]

Yes, I’ll be there.

 

[whannel]

Cheers for the Dampener off solution, thought it was in need of repair.

On the brake front I just realised I made every other game except ACC about 20% easier to brake but missed the one I play most, now set it and it's so much easier. Had been getting a lot of pain in my left foot and realised just how much I'm on the clutch in my real car. Been dabbling with right foot braking in games too now, but the brake setting has definitely helped here, was why I found it, might not need to try the softer fittings now.

Still might need a visit to a doctor, are foot injuries common for sim racers or people who drive too much?

 

[IfAndOr]

are foot injuries common for sim racers or people who drive too much?

Not sure about them being common but they can occur. My left knee and ankle had been hurting a little, I think because I was pressing on the brake a little offset. Now after moving the pedal positions around a bit I'm now pressing straight down on them. Seems much better so far.
Since I don't use it that much (at the moment) my clutch pedal is in the middle, allows me to set the position of the throttle and brake into more comfortable positions.

 

[LOGI_Rich]

@notarjy I finally managed to find some time to look at AMS2 again (yes, I know, better late than never) and here's the settings that we'll be updating on the settings page:

 

[CKU_87]

Hi, my wheel started to make the cracking noise when in use. @LOGI_Rich I know this was discussed in the past as some others had the same issue. Was there an easy solution or fix? Thanks

 

[LOGI_Rich]

It’s hard to say without video showing the context and confirming that it is doing it in all titles (and what they are). Also worth sharing your serial number (you can PM me if you don’t want it in public domain).

 

[Tommy moon]

Well that's good, same thing happened for Charlie, but you should really be able to set the dampener.


@LOGI_Rich do you think the slight ticking and twitching that can occur after a period of use* is related to the oscillation that used to happen when the wheel came out. The first firmware update cured the oscillation but this twitching still remains at times. Setting the dampener to zero stops it, anything higher (even at 1) sets it off again. It's nice to use some dampener though to give a more realistic feel.
I notice that if I let my wheel rest and cool, it tends to stop. I believe it's on console and PC.
Maybe a future update could fix it entirely?

*I've had it on both my bases too, although so slightly it's never really concerned me

It’s hard to say without video showing the context and confirming that it is doing it in all titles (and what they are). Also worth sharing your serial number (you can PM me if you don’t want it in public domain).

It's really hard to show some of this via video. Ive done a ton of testing and think I've connected some dots with common issues.

For me (on GT7) overheating isn't an issue. However, I find that if I'm running force feedback sensitivity at 1 (recommended) I experience clipping under trail/heavy turn and brake situations.

Clicking noises/Feedback irregularities are usually triggered by a heavy snap correction. The spring in the quick release will make a ping. I've looked at the spring a bunch, a little lubricant really helped.

 

[LOGI_Rich]

I can assure you that you’re not getting clipping in GT7, because there’s no way you’re getting anywhere near the maximum torque output of the wheel as things stand when running in Pro mode. If you’re in G923 mode then you’ll be getting clipping everywhere, even if you just turn into a corner, but definitely not in Pro mode.

Maybe it would help if you describe exactly what you mean by clipping?

 

[IfAndOr]

@Tommy moon
The twitching I mentioned only happens when the wheel is stationary with no hands on it. It's only a very small oscillation around the center point that's accompanied by a slight ticking. Almost as if the wheel is keen to continue for a few more laps. 🙂
It's barely noticeable for me, a little more so for others.

Clipping is a different beast. That's the wheel not having enough headroom to perform instructions that a game is sending to it. For instance, trying to simulate both suspension movement, tyre slippage and braking while under a heavy cornering situation. If you're at the 11Nm limit something will have to be lost - clipped.
As Rich says, if you're running GT7 in it's current default nerfed state you shouldn't be hitting that limit. Which could be a benefit of PD's restriction, I'd think you should be getting full FFB fidelity!

Are you sure you're not experiencing the lack of grip, understeer effects that GT uses where the wheels go lighter and judder? With a responsive DD wheel this, I'd assume, would be more pronounced. Other games simulate this differently so I don't have the problem under braking you mentioned.

 

[Tommy moon]

It's really hard to show some of this via video. Ive done a ton of testing and think I've connected some dots with common issues.

For me (on GT7) overheating isn't an issue. However, I find that if I'm running force feedback sensitivity at 1 (recommended) I experience clipping under trail/heavy turn and brake situations.

Clicking noises/Feedback irregularities are usually triggered by a heavy snap correction. The spring in the quick release will make a ping. I've looked at the spring a bunch, a little lubricant really helped.

It's really hard to show some of this via video. Ive done a ton of testing and think I've connected some dots with common issues.

For me (on GT7) overheating isn't an issue. However, I find that if I'm running force feedback sensitivity at 1 (recommended) I experience clipping under trail/heavy turn and brake situations.

Clicking noises/Feedback irregularities are usually triggered by a heavy snap correction. The spring in the quick release will make a ping. I've looked at the spring a bunch, a little lubricant really helped.

I can assure you that you’re not getting clipping in GT7, because there’s no way you’re getting anywhere near the maximum torque output of the wheel as things stand when running in Pro mode. If you’re in G923 mode then you’ll be getting clipping everywhere, even if you just turn into a corner, but definitely not in Pro mode.

Maybe it would help if you describe exactly what you mean by clipping?

So If I take such a turn with ffb sensitivity at 1 It feels like I can out turn the friction circle. I will turn in while trailbreaking and everything goes away as far as first feedback.

If I take that same turn the exact same way with force feedback sensitivity at 10 it does not happen

 

[LOGI_Rich]

Okay, this isn't clipping. What you're feeling is the result of what the sensitivity setting does in GT7 - it alters how reactive the force feedback is to changes. The easiest way to see this is to turn the wheel up to full torque, run the game at 10 for torque and increase sensitivity to 10, then drive down a straight and let go of the wheel; it'll soon start oscillating, especially in a high downforce car. Do the same with the sensitivity down at 1 and it won't (or... less so in a high downforce car).

Apply that to the info the game is sending to the wheel when you're under heavy/trail braking and entering a corner and with sensitivity at 1 the steering will feel more "floaty" because the weight shift that is applied to the steering isn't as aggressive. Turn it up to 10 and you'll feel that much more prominently and quickly.

Always remember that the settings we put on the support page are merely a suggestion, not a requirement. If you like the sensitivity at 10 then go for it.

 

[Abelardor]

@LOGI_Rich I have the Logitech recommended steering wheel settings on GT7. ¿ So what is the best value to set the sensitivity 1 or 10 ?

Thank you !

 

[LOGI_Rich]

The best value is whatever feels best for you. That’s not me being evasive, it’s just the truth.

 

[chandrizzle]

The best value is whatever feels best for you. That’s not me being evasive, it’s just the truth.

Out of curiosity, how are the baseline suggested settings generated? Is it a different person assigned to evaluate each game? Or is there a pool of people who team up on a title and agree that a certain feel is "best", and then apply that feel to another title? I'm curious to know how consistent the feel is across titles, using the suggested settings.

Like, with the G29 there are no settings to adjust (at least on console... not sure if Ghub plays a role on PC), so any variation in feel across titles is due to the game alone. Contrast that with the DD11 which has it's own on-board settings and now there are more variables at play.

 

[Monkey Man]

IIRC they're Rich's settings and he updates them every now and then.