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Hi @LOGI_Rich,
Isn't it possible to bypass the torque limitation on GT7 with a firmware update like the DriveHub does?
Isn't it possible to bypass the torque limitation on GT7 with a firmware update like the DriveHub does?
I’ve had my wheelbase around 3 months with no problems, but mine started with this twitching at the weekend! Playing ACC on PC, like I normally do - No new game or platform - so I don’t know why it’s started now! I’ll try this zero dampener hack - but we shouldn’t have to be doing that! Did anyone get a response from Logitech on this issue please?Just saying thanks! I tested this for over 4hrs yesterday and I've not had that ticking/twitching issue anymore since I turned off the dampener.
I’ve had my wheelbase around 3 months with no problems, but mine started with this twitching at the weekend! Playing ACC on PC, like I normally do - No new game or platform - so I don’t know why it’s started now! I’ll try this zero dampener hack - but we shouldn’t have to be doing that! Did anyone get a response from Logitech on this issue please?
Your not going to get active pedals on PS5 without running simhub through a PCAs someone who has upgraded the G29 pedals to the TruBrake mod (v2), and then to the 3DRap LogiKit (a true load cell and hall sensors), I can tell you the G Pro pedals are miles better in feel and fidelity.
I prefer a pedal with more travel than less, so the increased travel while still being a load cell is a huge improvement. Of course if you want less brake travel the kit has you covered with stiffer elastomers. Trail braking, threshold braking and heel toe (this is where the increased pedal travel was most important) feel much better to me here.
For me an even bigger improvement came in the gas pedal with its better feel and fidelity. With the old Logi G29 pedals I felt it was too finicky and twitchy. Like the brakes, this pedal also has increased travel over the old G2x/92x set.
As for actual feedback in the pedals, there are none. It doesn't have any active FFB. All of the feedback comes from the wheel base, and there is tons more information over the G29 (and T300). I can feel the suspension loading up or the wheels losing traction. Reaction times are much quicker too. TruForce only amplifies the immersion and kinda feels naked when you turn it off. Best of all, even when set at 11nm (most street-based cars in GT7 seem to max out at 9nm avg with DH amplification on, and GT cars feel noticeably stronger/sharper and seem to hit the higher range) I haven't gotten to the point of overheating... yet.
You can adjust brake travel in game in gt7Got my wheel/pedal set yesterday and when I was setting it up had something weird happen. The wheel would connect to my PS5 fine (GT7) but during game play it would not register me turning the wheel. It does however register everything else. Pedals, button inputs, etc. The other thing was that the FFB seemed to work fine (I'd get resistance) initially but the minute I booted up GT7 the wheel would go "limp". At first I thought it was a busted unit and started the game over as well as the wheel. I had an extender USB that I was using in between the wheels cable and the PS5 and took that off and shortly after it worked fine. Just seemed odd and not sure if anyone's had a similar issue?
Other than that the initial returns are incredible. I do wish the brake travel was a little less but I'm guessing I can fix that with the pieces given to me in the box.
You can adjust the length of travel in game on gt7@TheOneDonJuan
There have been several people reporting that issue, including myself. I guess it's a bug in GT7 since this does not happen in other games on the PS, Xbox or PC. I don't know if anyone has had an issue during sports mode or not but it seems like the issue happens during single player races (could be wrong on this). I've found that I don't need to restart the game, I just need to unplug the wheel from the PS and restart the wheel to resolve the issue. Luckily it only happens on a rare occasion for me, and hopefully it will be rare for you also.
As for reducing the brake travel, definitely change out the elastometers. I can't remember what color I use, but I use the stiffest ones available in the box. I didn't like how much travel they had stock, so changing them for the stiffest ones made a huge improvement to the feel of the brake.
Mine started doing that roughly 3-4 months into my ownership. I don't even use it all that much considering I play for maybe 2-3 hrs per week and sometimes that could be it for a whole month.
As for a response from Logitech, I believe @LOGI_Rich said that it was been investigated. Perhaps something that may get fixed with a future update 🤷♂️
Thanks, I only use mine for around 4hrs per week, I wonder if this is why it took so long to show itself! I hope they find a a solution as it is irritating - and gives me concerns for its longevity!Mine started doing that roughly 3-4 months into my ownership. I don't even use it all that much considering I play for maybe 2-3 hrs per week and sometimes that could be it for a whole month.
As for a response from Logitech, I believe @LOGI_Rich said that it was been investigated. Perhaps something that may get fixed with a future update 🤷♂️
Does anyone know if you can use the clutch pedal as the brake pedal (instead of the load cell)?
I'm seriously considering the Pro wheel and pedals but worry my messed up knee won't be able to handle the load cell (even at the softest setting).
Does anyone know if the new GT-branded Fanatec wheel also has similar torque limitations? Because if not that has antitrust lawsuit written all over it.It’s definitely a legal gray area for PD to do this, at least within the EU, but I understand Logitech not wanting to put a strain on the relationship by bringing up competition laws.
Does anyone know if the new GT-branded Fanatec wheel also has similar torque limitations? Because if not that has antitrust lawsuit written all over it.
Edit: almost coming up on two years and no shifter or accesories 🙁
It depends on the game title. GT7 doesn't allow you to reassign the pedals, so that wouldn't be an option there. However, remember that you can adjust how much force is required to max out the brake, so there's ways to make it so you won't need to push that har
Yes...Logitech is a main sponsor. LogiRich will you be there?Apparently there is some sort of show or event happening in October and the rumor from a reliable source (logisomething) is that there will be one or two (a few?) Accessories announced.
Don't waste your time or money on anything released third party.
Not sure about them being common but they can occur. My left knee and ankle had been hurting a little, I think because I was pressing on the brake a little offset. Now after moving the pedal positions around a bit I'm now pressing straight down on them. Seems much better so far.are foot injuries common for sim racers or people who drive too much?
Well that's good, same thing happened for Charlie, but you should really be able to set the dampener.
@LOGI_Rich do you think the slight ticking and twitching that can occur after a period of use* is related to the oscillation that used to happen when the wheel came out. The first firmware update cured the oscillation but this twitching still remains at times. Setting the dampener to zero stops it, anything higher (even at 1) sets it off again. It's nice to use some dampener though to give a more realistic feel.
I notice that if I let my wheel rest and cool, it tends to stop. I believe it's on console and PC.
Maybe a future update could fix it entirely?
*I've had it on both my bases too, although so slightly it's never really concerned me
It's really hard to show some of this via video. Ive done a ton of testing and think I've connected some dots with common issues.It’s hard to say without video showing the context and confirming that it is doing it in all titles (and what they are). Also worth sharing your serial number (you can PM me if you don’t want it in public domain).
It's really hard to show some of this via video. Ive done a ton of testing and think I've connected some dots with common issues.
For me (on GT7) overheating isn't an issue. However, I find that if I'm running force feedback sensitivity at 1 (recommended) I experience clipping under trail/heavy turn and brake situations.
Clicking noises/Feedback irregularities are usually triggered by a heavy snap correction. The spring in the quick release will make a ping. I've looked at the spring a bunch, a little lubricant really helped.
It's really hard to show some of this via video. Ive done a ton of testing and think I've connected some dots with common issues.
For me (on GT7) overheating isn't an issue. However, I find that if I'm running force feedback sensitivity at 1 (recommended) I experience clipping under trail/heavy turn and brake situations.
Clicking noises/Feedback irregularities are usually triggered by a heavy snap correction. The spring in the quick release will make a ping. I've looked at the spring a bunch, a little lubricant really helped.
So If I take such a turn with ffb sensitivity at 1 It feels like I can out turn the friction circle. I will turn in while trailbreaking and everything goes away as far as first feedback.I can assure you that you’re not getting clipping in GT7, because there’s no way you’re getting anywhere near the maximum torque output of the wheel as things stand when running in Pro mode. If you’re in G923 mode then you’ll be getting clipping everywhere, even if you just turn into a corner, but definitely not in Pro mode.
Maybe it would help if you describe exactly what you mean by clipping?
The best value is whatever feels best for you. That’s not me being evasive, it’s just the truth.