Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

[LOGI_Rich]

There’s nothing artificial about what’s sent through Trueforce Audio 🙂

It’s all about personal preference but I’ll repeat my usual recommendation here: it should be set to a level that subtly informs the experience and doesn’t overwhelm.

G923 mode is recommended for the PS4 version of ACC otherwise the wheel won’t work. For the PC and PS5 version, use Pro mode.

G923 mode still has relevance in some PC titles, such as those from Codemasters where they correctly map the onscreen button prompts to the symbols on the buttons (instead of just saying button 1, 2 etc). If a title doesn’t natively support Pro Wheel but does support G923 (Dirt Rally 2.0, for example) then you might want to put the wheel into G923 mode. There’s usually no loss of FFB quality when you do so.

 

[lechbialek]

@LOGI_Rich

The little joystick on my Logitech Pro Wheel has started to give issues. It always makes a clicking sound but doesn’t register reliably in the down direction. Sometimes it doesn’t register at all or registers two clicks instead of one in menus.

I only play ACC but to rule out a software issue I tried F1 22, but it’s the same. I am running the latest firmware.

If I need to send it for repairs I would be without a wheel and I use it every day… Is there anything I can try to fix the issue? What do you recommend?

 

[Excession]

Hi all,

I have a question regarding your FFB settings if you are using the new Logitech Pro Racing Wheel/Base.

I notice that I only feel a bit of FFB with 11Nm in the base in the game.

In the controller settings, 10/10 is also stored. So the two lower values are set to 10.

By the way, I come from a Fanatec DD1 base, so I know that it works better.

I'm very surprised that I only have just enough FFB with GT3 cars, for example.

When I drive small cars, I hardly feel any FFB with these settings. If I display the current FFB values on the base, I have just about 3Nm with small cars, although everything is set to full stop as far as FFB is concerned.

I have tested the settings from the link and also some from YouTube, but I am not satisfied.

Do you always have enough FFB with the new Logitech Base? I could never go below 11Nm because it's just far too light.

Best Gran Turismo 7 Logitech Pro Racing Wheel Force Feedback Settings

Here are the best Gran Turismo 7 force feedback settings for the Logitech Pro Racing Wheel.

simracingsetup.com

Can you please share your settings with me?

Could you possibly observe something similar, or do you have a tip for me?

Thank you!

Regards Thomas

Something definitely wrong there if you have FFB set to 11nm and don't feel enough force with race cars! I had to dial mine back to 8.5 when driving for more than an hour or so to avoid wrist injury.

I don't think I have the latest firmware, so my current settings are...
G-PRO: FFB 8.5, TFA 25, DAMPNR 1, FFB FILTER 1
GT7: MAX TORQUE 10, SENS 7

For me, these settings make for a pretty wild ride in any car with serious front wheel grip, leaving me with aching arms, sweating and exhausted after an hour of hard racing.

 

[Excession]

There’s nothing artificial about what’s sent through Trueforce Audio 🙂

It’s all about personal preference but I’ll repeat my usual recommendation here: it should be set to a level that subtly informs the experience and doesn’t overwhelm.

Agreed! I have TF Audio set to 25 and it's INCREDIBLE, at least it is when playing in VR on a Playseat Trophy. I didn't realise quite how good TFA is until it randomly stopped working a couple of times. I'm not sure yet if this was due to the USB/Samsung TV compatibility problem, but prior to that happening I played on GT7 in VR for 4 weeks with no issue and when the TFA switched off suddenly, the loss of immersion was completely devastating. I no longer felt that I was physically present in the car, as I did before.

I feel that I can't overstate this enough, and my sincere apologies to all those with expensive sim rigs and screens, but G Pro on GT7 in VR is mind-blowingly realistic, I've been sim racing for years and this last month has been the most amazing sim experience of my life. I could never, ever even contemplate racing outside of VR again. I tried going back to my TV once 'cos I thought I was missing out on those gorgeous 4k TV visuals, but I quickly realised that it really doesn't matter, the total immersion and 3 dimensionality of VR far outweighs the reduced visual quality in the PSVR2, it feels so damn real that you simply don't need the 4K when racing. The TFA translates EVERYTHING the car is feeling into both the wheel AND through the PS Trophy frame; you can feel the engine noise, transmission, road surface and wheel scrub etc in your bones. When you turn TFA off, half the immersion is gone and the car feels like it's almost hovering along, no longer connected to the track. I could never go back to a wheel without this feature.

 

[miroshi]

Agreed! I have TF Audio set to 25 and it's INCREDIBLE, at least it is when playing in VR on a Playseat Trophy. I didn't realise quite how good TFA is until it randomly stopped working a couple of times. I'm not sure yet if this was due to the USB/Samsung TV compatibility problem, but prior to that happening I played on GT7 in VR for 4 weeks with no issue and when the TFA switched off suddenly, the loss of immersion was completely devastating. I no longer felt that I was physically present in the car, as I did before.

I feel that I can't overstate this enough, and my sincere apologies to all those with expensive sim rigs and screens, but G Pro on GT7 in VR is mind-blowingly realistic, I've been sim racing for years and this last month has been the most amazing sim experience of my life. I could never, ever even contemplate racing outside of VR again. I tried going back to my TV once 'cos I thought I was missing out on those gorgeous 4k TV visuals, but I quickly realised that it really doesn't matter, the total immersion and 3 dimensionality of VR far outweighs the reduced visual quality in the PSVR2, it feels so damn real that you simply don't need the 4K when racing. The TFA translates EVERYTHING the car is feeling into both the wheel AND through the PS Trophy frame; you can feel the engine noise, transmission, road surface and wheel scrub etc in your bones. When you turn TFA off, half the immersion is gone and the car feels like it's almost hovering along, no longer connected to the track. I could never go back to a wheel without this feature.

Same here. I was checking the new VRR+120Hz update recently, and yes, it was nice, but I already knew nothing would ever convince me to go back to flat screen driving. VR is the way to go, there's no going back once you experience it in the fullest form, with the right gear. The future of VR sim racing is bright, it's going to get even better with PSVR3.

 

[Excession]

Thanks, and yeah, already tried it at different settings up to max, but didn’t change it.

If dampener and filter are set high, will that not surely reduce any feedback to a minimum? I have dampener off and filter on 1 and the wheel tells me everything that the front wheels are doing.

 

[Excession]

Interesting, I suggest reading a related post regarding random wheel disconnects, because that is my issue. I didn't have any issue with the power cable though on any of the units I had.

My wheel worked flawlessly with daily use for over 4 weeks. Then I started getting TFA dropout on random occasions, followed by random disconnects.

Today I connected it to my PC and updated the firmware, now it will not connect to my PS5 at all! I'm using PSVR2 so I don't use the TV, but I have tried it without the TV hdmi connected and it makes no difference.

The wheel boots up, I select PS5, it then starts to centre the wheel as usual but freezes while the 3 'blobs' are still flashing, before reaching the pedal/input display.

Has the firmware update done this?

 

[IfAndOr]

@Excession make sure the wheel is seated properly onto the base. Remove and refit with a good clunk. This can sometimes be a cause of it getting stuck on the 3 blobs.

 

[miroshi]

My wheel worked flawlessly with daily use for over 4 weeks. Then I started getting TFA dropout on random occasions, followed by random disconnects.

Today I connected it to my PC and updated the firmware, now it will not connect to my PS5 at all! I'm using PSVR2 so I don't use the TV, but I have tried it without the TV hdmi connected and it makes no difference.

The wheel boots up, I select PS5, it then starts to centre the wheel as usual but freezes while the 3 'blobs' are still flashing, before reaching the pedal/input display.

Has the firmware update done this?

My wheel stopped working with the front USB port completely (Two different PRO units refused to boot with that port). I can use the wheel with the rear higher speed USB ports only now. No idea what happened, the front USB still works, but definitely below 2.0 USB speed specs, when trying to play movies off of a USB storage movies keep buffering a lot, I don't understand why the USB works in a limp mode now. So maybe try rear ports.

 

[thomasoeli]

There’s nothing artificial about what’s sent through Trueforce Audio 🙂

It’s all about personal preference but I’ll repeat my usual recommendation here: it should be set to a level that subtly informs the experience and doesn’t overwhelm.

G923 mode is recommended for the PS4 version of ACC otherwise the wheel won’t work. For the PC and PS5 version, use Pro mode.

G923 mode still has relevance in some PC titles, such as those from Codemasters where they correctly map the onscreen button prompts to the symbols on the buttons (instead of just saying button 1, 2 etc). If a title doesn’t natively support Pro Wheel but does support G923 (Dirt Rally 2.0, for example) then you might want to put the wheel into G923 mode. There’s usually no loss of FFB quality when you do so.

Thanks for your feedback and interesting to hear that TF Audio is concerned. Opinions differ somewhat on this when you see various YouTube videos.

Automobilista 2 apparently needed the 923 mode, but do I understand correctly that it is only about the buttons here?

With ACC, the force feedback is quite different in 923 Mode. Therefore, I use the PRO Mode here in any case.

Something definitely wrong there if you have FFB set to 11nm and don't feel enough force with race cars! I had to dial mine back to 8.5 when driving for more than an hour or so to avoid wrist injury.

I don't think I have the latest firmware, so my current settings are...
G-PRO: FFB 8.5, TFA 25, DAMPNR 1, FFB FILTER 1
GT7: MAX TORQUE 10, SENS 7

For me, these settings make for a pretty wild ride in any car with serious front wheel grip, leaving me with aching arms, sweating and exhausted after an hour of hard racing.

Thanks also to you for your settings. Can you please give an example of a vehicle with which you had to reduce the FFB to 8.5?

I would like to test it anally. Max Torque and Sens is set to 10 for me. I understand you that in the long run this goes on the health, but on 10 the FFB is not so heavy with me. I could ride it for a long time and I'm not a bodybuilder. 😁

I will try your settings soon.

 

[Mateusz90]

I got so frustrated on Friday that I didn't even turn it on all weekend. I packed it up in a box and I'm not sure what to do with it now.
Does the Logitech RMA procedure work quickly? Do they send new unit immidietely?
I'm considering just returning it and buying once again TGT-2, at least it's a reliable piece of equipment that's been on the market for a long time.
@miroshi, have you had three units already and all of them were defective?

 

[RJ83]

I got so frustrated on Friday that I didn't even turn it on all weekend. I packed it up in a box and I'm not sure what to do with it now.
Does the Logitech RMA procedure work quickly? Do they send new unit immidietely?
I'm considering just returning it and buying once again TGT-2, at least it's a reliable piece of equipment that's been on the market for a long time.
@miroshi, have you had three units already and all of them were defective?

It sucks something is obstructing your fan. My issue was only the delivery. No communation at all after my order. After a while i picked up a TGT2 and tried to cancel my Pro wheel. Then suddenly it arrived and i had two wheels. Quickly found out that the TGT2 is inferior in every way to the Pro. I took my loss: sold the TGT2 (couldnt return it as i already ditched most of the packaging). I highly recommend you to RMA the Pro and get a replacement, no matter if it is quick or takes a while.
Plenty of people like me who have no issues with the Pro wheel.

 

[Monkey Man]

He said pretty clearly that the order makes no difference, so I think that answers the question, doesn't it?

Wrong mate.

He said:
"... changing the order of the two large pieces doesn't seem to make much of a difference."

You said:
"He said pretty clearly that the order makes no difference"

Thanks for trying to help mate.

 

[LOGI_Rich]

@lechbialek Accessing the d-pad switches would require full disassembly of the wheel rim, including removing the QR. You would need to get in touch with support, I'm afraid.

@Mateusz90 Miroshi's first unit wasn't faulty - it just appeared as if it was due to his unique issue that seems to be caused by his specific Samsung TV. His second unit did have an issue and he's awaiting his third. Please get in touch with support to arrange the RMA.

@Monkey Man small foam then softest large elastomer, followed by the harder large elastomer but, like I say, I can't personally tell a difference.

 

[miroshi]

I got so frustrated on Friday that I didn't even turn it on all weekend. I packed it up in a box and I'm not sure what to do with it now.
Does the Logitech RMA procedure work quickly? Do they send new unit immidietely?
I'm considering just returning it and buying once again TGT-2, at least it's a reliable piece of equipment that's been on the market for a long time.
@miroshi, have you had three units already and all of them were defective?

The RMA process is unfortunately not that quick, about 10-14 days if you include days spent chatting with the support. First the problem acknowledgment via support ticket, then you wait for a UPS return label at least 2 days, which you print and tape down onto the box, the UPS picks up the wheel (in 1-3 days, I notified UPS via email that the shipment is ready to pick-up) and returns it (to Logitech QA in Krosno Poland), you inform them that it was picked up and a few days later you'll receive a tracking number of the replacement unit. You don't pay anything so I recommend just going through with it, I think the wheel is worth it.
I've had 2 units so far. The first one was fine but due to the disconnect issue caused by HDMI connection with the Samsung TV I suspected that the unit was malfunctioning, so I RMA'd it, the second unit was working fine when I found out that I had to disconnect the HDMI cable, but a week later I started noticing clicking and creaking noises, but I'm pretty sure that the 2nd unit did the noises right out of the box in the retrospect. So the first unit was totally fine. The second unit had issues. I'm waiting for the 3rd unit now.

 

[Abelardo]

@LOGI_Rich So if when I turn my wheel left and right in the Ps5 menu, without running any game, like in @miroshi's video and I have no noise. Does it mean my steering wheel is ok and has no problems?

 

[hawkeyez]

I may have read something wrong, but I thought the latest GT7 update, the G Pro no longer needed that 0.1 adjustment on strength anymore?

I still have to make the one decimal change or I’m full strength. Starting to wonder if my wheel actually updated correctly the day I got it.

 

[LOGI_Rich]

@Abelardo Yes your wheel is fine.

@hawkeyez that’s not what we see here. I forget though - are you on PS4 or PS5?

 

[hawkeyez]

@Abelardo Yes your wheel is fine.

@hawkeyez that’s not what we see here. I forget though - are you on PS4 or PS5?

PS5. I’m fine if I have to keep making the small change was just wondering.

I did have issues updating firmware when I got it to get the pedals working, I’m wondering if maybe I only managed to update the adapter back then.

 

[Monkey Man]

@Monkey Man small foam then softest large elastomer, followed by the harder large elastomer but, like I say, I can't personally tell a difference.

Thank you so much Rich, and again, for your patience too mate.

 

[Mateusz90]

I want to return the whole order. Who should I contact? Is there any Email for support? How can I contact with support?
Noone answers on chat... I've tried since Friday.

 

[LOGI_Rich]

What were the details of the rest of the conversation that you initially had? Were you told that you would be passed on to someone in level 2 support? What's your ticket number?

 

[Mateusz90]

The problem was that I had one window open all the time and it seems that instead of creating a new ticket, I was writing in the old one. Eventually, I managed to submit the refund request. I am waiting for further instructions via email.

 

[Igano]

The problem was that I had one window open all the time and it seems that instead of creating a new ticket, I was writing in the old one. Eventually, I managed to submit the refund request. I am waiting for further instructions via email.

I find it extremely difficult and confusing to create a ticket. The site is very flawed.

 

[miroshi]

I find it extremely difficult and confusing to create a ticket. The site is very flawed.

Absolutely. The Logitech support system has major flaws, the system does not allow me to create any new tickets and just keeps throwing me back into old support chat threads. I was forced to make a new request by re-opening an old closed ticket. Super annoying. Not even going to mention their response time. You will get ghosted a lot. The request for 3rd wheel was accepted 20 days ago and to this day I'm still waiting just to get a tracking number of the replacement unit. Most of the 20 days were just waiting for their response. I have no idea why they operate at a snail pace. The bigger the company the slower and cumbersome the support seems to get. Probably due to mismanagement of human resources or disgruntled workers.

 

[hawkeyez]

Only had to deal with it once or twice and it went about as smooth as it could. Yeah I had to kind of jump through some hoops making videos of the problem, which was difficult on my own but in the end it wasn’t really too bad at all. Feel bad for you guys experiencing this stuff. Maybe I hit somebody in a good mood who knows.

 

[Met Entso]

Hello, i recently got the PS5 and still having the issue where in the first lap after starting the game, the wheel is at the maximum STRENGTH (not in the panel, just the feeling). To fix it I have to go to the menu and change strength for instance from 8 to 8.1 or 7.9. After that the wheel will be ok in any lobby or race until closing and starting the game again.
Anyone having this?

 

[LOGI_Rich]

@Met Entso Is it the PS5 version of GT7 or are you still running the PS4 version on the PS5?

 

[hawkeyez]

Hello, i recently got the PS5 and still having the issue where in the first lap after starting the game, the wheel is at the maximum STRENGTH (not in the panel, just the feeling). To fix it I have to go to the menu and change strength for instance from 8 to 8.1 or 7.9. After that the wheel will be ok in any lobby or race until closing and starting the game again.
Anyone having this?

Yeah that’s my issue. Only if I forget to change that strength parameter by .1.

PS5. Not sure which firmware update or whatever I’m running on my wheel. My laptop is down right now so I have no way to update or check for updates… yet.

 

[Met Entso]

Yeah that’s my issue. Only if I forget to change that strength parameter by .1.

PS5. Not sure which firmware update or whatever I’m running on my wheel. My laptop is down right now so I have no way to update or check for updates… yet.

I have the update before the last one, might try updating, I forgot.

@Met Entso Is it the PS5 version of GT7 or are you still running the PS4 version on the PS5?

It's the PS5 version of GT7. Other issues like the wheel disconnecting have disappeared.


EDIT: i just updated the firmware and no changes.