Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

[Blaze_409]

Greetings fellow sim racers.

I purchased a Logitech pro wheel from the logitech store. I really like the wheel. I play GT7 and ACC. I have a problem however. I noticed a rattling sound coming from the steering wheel. It sounds almost like someone left a loose screw inside the wheel when they assembled it at the factory. I can reproduce the sound by removing the steering wheel from the base, and just gently shaking the wheel. The rattling occurs. It transforms into a more vigorous sound when I have the wheel connected to the base and the wheel is being shaken by the FFB and the true force.

Has anyone had this experience? I feel like I may have to proceed with a warranty replacement but worried that this will be a hassle. Do they send a NEW replacement product for warranty exchange? I read above that it took someone a month to get their replacement. Isn't that absurd?

I know it should not be deciding to live with it, for a $1000 product defect...but I'm dreading the warranty process.

 

[miroshi]

Greetings fellow sim racers.

I purchased a Logitech pro wheel from the logitech store. I really like the wheel. I play GT7 and ACC. I have a problem however. I noticed a rattling sound coming from the steering wheel. It sounds almost like someone left a loose screw inside the wheel when they assembled it at the factory. I can reproduce the sound by removing the steering wheel from the base, and just gently shaking the wheel. The rattling occurs. It transforms into a more vigorous sound when I have the wheel connected to the base and the wheel is being shaken by the FFB and the true force.

Has anyone had this experience? I feel like I may have to proceed with a warranty replacement but worried that this will be a hassle. Do they send a NEW replacement product for warranty exchange? I read above that it took someone a month to get their replacement. Isn't that absurd?

I know it should not be deciding to live with it, for a $1000 product defect...but I'm dreading the warranty process.

Yes you will get a NEW unit. I went through the RMA process twice, first time 17 days, second time 30 days. So brace yourself. The only reason I did not just return it and ask for a refund is the next level experience the wheel offers. I believe there's nothing better currently on the market than this wheel. But I have to admit that for such a high price the wheel does not really meet premium quality requirements. Some units are ripe for RMA right out of the box (loose screws, rattling fans, clicking and creaking hubs), hopefully the majority does not have any issues. I'm dealing with the clicking and creaking hub issue even on my 3rd unit, but it's not as annoying as with the 2nd unit, at least for now, so I'm hoping I won't have to go through a 4th RMA.

 

[RJ83]

Yes you will get a NEW unit. I went through the RMA process twice, first time 17 days, second time 30 days. So brace yourself. The only reason I did not just return it and ask for a refund is the next level experience the wheel offers. I believe there's nothing better currently on the market than this wheel. But I have to admit that for such a high price the wheel does not really meet premium quality requirements. Some units are ripe for RMA right out of the box (loose screws, rattling fans, clicking and creaking hubs), hopefully the majority does not have any issues. I'm dealing with the clicking and creaking hub issue even on my 3rd unit, but it's not as annoying as with the 2nd unit, at least for now, so I'm hoping I won't have to go through a 4th RMA.

What kind of strength are you running the wheel? Of course the wheel is capable of 11nm so it should be able to handle that without issues, but i wonder if the people who have the clicking and creaking are using the wheel with a high torque setting. It might be a harmless consequence of using a plastic housing, but i'm sure it is annoying nevertheless and doesn't scream premium build quality.

 

[Substance79]

Anyone using this with ACC and have an issue with the stick not scrolling on the MFD? It works on the menu but bringing up the MFD it just jumps between the first two lines and won't move down the list..

 

[miroshi]

What kind of strength are you running the wheel? Of course the wheel is capable of 11nm so it should be able to handle that without issues, but i wonder if the people who have the clicking and creaking are using the wheel with a high torque setting. It might be a harmless consequence of using a plastic housing, but i'm sure it is annoying nevertheless and doesn't scream premium build quality.

11 Nm wheel, 7 Nm GT7. The noises are not coming from the plastic housing, but the hub assembly.

This was my 2nd unit, filmed right before I sent it back:

 

[RJ83]

11 Nm wheel, 7 Nm GT7. The noises are not coming from the plastic housing, but the hub assembly.

This was my 2nd unit, filmed right before I sent it back:

And you can reproduce that noise with the new one in the same way as in the video?

I am running the same amount of torque by the way since about 6 months (no issues and i can't reproduce that noise).

 

[JodyyyHiiiRol]

Anyone using this with ACC and have an issue with the stick not scrolling on the MFD? It works on the menu but bringing up the MFD it just jumps between the first two lines and won't move down the list..

I haven’t been able to get my steering input to detect since the last update, I’ve searched EVERYWHERE, asked rich multiple times.. but all I get is delete the controls.json file. I’ve done that, I’ve reinstalled ghub, reinstalled acc all multiple times, no matter what my steering will not register in game. When I go to the options to bind it, everything works as it should, it even registers me moving the wheel in the options, but upon going back into the game I feel two quick nudges in the wheel and then nothing. I’m at my wits end with finding a solution, works great in every other game. Just acc it won’t work

 

[LOGI_Rich]

Yes, I can't replicate this at all so I've no idea what's going wrong with it for you. If you open up your controls.json file do you have the same as this under the section for the wheel?

"raceCommandAxisList": [
                {
                    "axisIndex": 0,
                    "axisCode": "Steer",
                    "minRange": -1,
                    "maxRange": 1,
                    "isCombined": false
                },
                {
                    "axisIndex": 3,
                    "axisCode": "Gas",
                    "minRange": -1,
                    "maxRange": 1,
                    "isCombined": false
                },
                {
                    "axisIndex": 4,
                    "axisCode": "Brake",
                    "minRange": -1,
                    "maxRange": 1,
                    "isCombined": false
                },
                {
                    "axisIndex": 5,
                    "axisCode": "Clutch",
                    "minRange": -1,
                    "maxRange": 1,
                    "isCombined": false
                }

The final thing to try (assuming you haven't already) is to completely uninstall the game, make sure no folders are left behind and then re-download it.

@Substance79 Which controls do you have the d-pad assigned to in ACC's options?

 

[miroshi]

And you can reproduce that noise with the new one in the same way as in the video?

I am running the same amount of torque by the way since about 6 months (no issues and i can't reproduce that noise).

No I haven't done that test on my 3rd wheel, because the creaking/clicking noise level is not as bad, but it's definitely there, so don't bother with it (yet). But I'm fairly positive that every unit is affected by this problem to some extent, the users may not be able to hear it while wearing headphones or not be able to actually recognize it as a mechanical noise coming from the wheel and rather think of it as a noise related to the Trueforce effects. I've been preconditioned with my 2nd unit and now I know exactly what noise the wheel should and should not be emitting, once you hear it you won't unhear it.

 

[Met Entso]

Hello, i have a problem with the joystick to the left of the wheel, below the L2 button. When I press it down, it often registers 2 clicks instead of one. Is there anything that I could do to fix this, not voiding the warrant. Like using an air spray if there would be some dust there or someting else?

Or sending the wheel would be my only option? It's a bit annoying when using the menus but not a problem when racing.

 

[Magoo00]

Does anyone know when Logitech will have wheels back in stock for the U.S.? I bought the wheel and pedal bundle and I'm just learning now about how Logitech lets you order first before telling you they're out of stock, making you wait. I opened a ticket days ago asking for an estimate on when the wheel will ship and I haven't heard back. How long is the wait usually before hearing back?

 

[miroshi]

Does anyone know when Logitech will have wheels back in stock for the U.S.? I bought the wheel and pedal bundle and I'm just learning now about how Logitech lets you order first before telling you they're out of stock, making you wait. I opened a ticket days ago asking for an estimate on when the wheel will ship and I haven't heard back. How long is the wait usually before hearing back?

A few days, depending on their mood. This is very typical, this must've happened to everyone, including me. I've waited for my pedals a week before they could ship it to me. The support sale agent on the chat refused to tell me when it will ship, I asked for a rough estimate only. And no, it's not a typo, they literally refused to tell me.

 

[miroshi]

Hello, i have a problem with the joystick to the left of the wheel, below the L2 button. When I press it down, it often registers 2 clicks instead of one. Is there anything that I could do to fix this, not voiding the warrant. Like using an air spray if there would be some dust there or someting else?

Or sending the wheel would be my only option? It's a bit annoying when using the menus but not a problem when racing.

Sounds like a bad microswitch, having intermittent contact when pressed. I'm afraid a warranty repair is due, or RMA if you're still in 30 days return window. Try to reach the Logi support to see what your options are.

 

[Met Entso]

Sounds like a bad microswitch, having intermittent contact when pressed. I'm afraid a warranty repair is due, or RMA if you're still in 30 days return window. Try to reach the Logi support to see what your options are.

Thank you miroshi, guess I will do that contacting Logitech see what they say.

I bought the wheel around october last year if I remember well, so still under guarantee I guess.

 

[hawkeyez]

Any more news on the clicking while steering past center? Mine seems to do it mostly if not always when turning left, not right. I can turn right, then left and I feel the click going just past centre. Kind of annoying it messed with my head while driving because it’s a distinctly different feel than force feedback. I don’t feel it when it’s off. I’ve gotta try ACC, PC2 or Wreckfest next time it’s doing it. The weird thing is, it was there awhile ago, then disappeared, now it’s back. So frustrating. $1500 you’d hope it would just be pristine and top dog right out the gates.


*****UPDATE: I raced tonight, before starting my system, I took the wheel off and turned the black quick release collar, it made a scrapping sound, could hear something binding. I kept turning it one way and then another until it felt like it freed up didn’t feel as grabby. put wheel back on and booted up the game. No clicking. But throughout the night near the end, I felt a little tick turning left but that was it.

Pretty sure it’s the spring, it’s loading up, must have an edge on the one end, causing it to grab and that makes perfect sense it only clicks when turning left not right. I’m not sure I’m happy that I will have to do that every so often on a $1500 wheel, kind of cheapens the experience. I’m also not convinced if Logitech were to send me a new steering wheel if that’ll solve the problem, as another wheel could just end up doing the same unless the spring in my just has an issue. On the other hand, they could take this one apart and look into the issue.

I’m convinced it’s the spring for the release collar catching. I’m a mechanic, I have pretty good feel for things such as turning a shaft on a an electric motor and telling if the bearings are shot, and even identifying which bearing in the motor is worse before pulling it apart. I’d put money on it that it’s the spring in the detachable wheel… if it’s not that then it’s the little ball bearings in the hub. I’m not taking mine apart to find out for sure, Logitech can do that.

 

[miroshi]

Any more news on the clicking while steering past center? Mine seems to do it mostly if not always when turning left, not right. I can turn right, then left and I feel the click going just past centre. Kind of annoying it messed with my head while driving because it’s a distinctly different feel than force feedback. I don’t feel it when it’s off. I’ve gotta try ACC, PC2 or Wreckfest next time it’s doing it. The weird thing is, it was there awhile ago, then disappeared, now it’s back. So frustrating. $1500 you’d hope it would just be pristine and top dog right out the gates.


*****UPDATE: I raced tonight, before starting my system, I took the wheel off and turned the black quick release collar, it made a scrapping sound, could hear something binding. I kept turning it one way and then another until it felt like it freed up didn’t feel as grabby. put wheel back on and booted up the game. No clicking. But throughout the night near the end, I felt a little tick turning left but that was it.

Pretty sure it’s the spring, it’s loading up, must have an edge on the one end, causing it to grab and that makes perfect sense it only clicks when turning left not right. I’m not sure I’m happy that I will have to do that every so often on a $1500 wheel, kind of cheapens the experience. I’m also not convinced if Logitech were to send me a new steering wheel if that’ll solve the problem, as another wheel could just end up doing the same unless the spring in my just has an issue. On the other hand, they could take this one apart and look into the issue.

I’m convinced it’s the spring for the release collar catching. I’m a mechanic, I have pretty good feel for things such as turning a shaft on a an electric motor and telling if the bearings are shot, and even identifying which bearing in the motor is worse before pulling it apart. I’d put money on it that it’s the spring in the detachable wheel… if it’s not that then it’s the little ball bearings in the hub. I’m not taking mine apart to find out for sure, Logitech can do that.

I'm pretty sure the whole wheel hub assembly + QR design is not up to the task, all wheels will inevitably exhibit strange clicks and noises. They should've come up with an alternative design of Fanatec QR, using large threaded sleeve, which takes out any slack when tightening. I'm not fan of the "ball bearing" design. What's the point of that. Pure engineering vanity. It requires stupidly high machining precision and in the long term the tear and wear through normal use will make the balls in the machined pockets move more and more, albeit hundredths of a millimeter, making noises, ticks and clicks. The Fanatec QR design is the winner here.
My 3rd replacement, a week old now, definitely has these strange clicks and also a small but noticeable slack when going through the neutral position from left to right, or right to left, basically when the load on the wheel changes direction, I can feel a small slack, probably thanks to the "ball bearings" design. What the hell was their goal with that? Sacrificing reliability for wheel swapping speed. These are definitely not manufacturing defects or bad assembly, bad questionable design decisions and shallow product testing. I'm waiting now for the 2 year warranty to run out so I can disassemble the thing and take a better look at it. DIY mods here we go.

 

[IfAndOr]

But throughout the night near the end, I felt a little tick turning left but that was it.

I sometimes also get a very slight "tick" sound, and also strangely just turning left but, like you note, it's only after the wheel has been in use for sometime. I think it originates from the rear of the base, there's probably the mounting for the shaft or an encoder in that area. Therefore I think it's heat related, just something internal warming up a little. If I leave the wheel alone with its fan running my tick will diminish and eventually disappear. Start from cold and it won't be there.

It doesn't bother me at all. You probably wouldn't normally hear it, it's just that the wheel is generally quiet in use you tend to pick it up. After having (and enjoying) a G29 for years with it's various rattles, a slight tick every now and then isn't a problem. If it was a clonk it would be.

As per the recommendation, I always let my wheel idle for a while to cool before switching it off at the mains.

The Fanatec QR design is the winner here.

Is that the one where some have to stick tape into the grove or fashion shims out of aluminium cans to reduce play on the shaft? 😉

My wheel mount is solid, no play at all. And I remove it most days since it makes it easier to get into the seat.

 

[thomasoeli]

Hello all,

you're certainly talking about those cracking noises here, right? I recorded the video myself.

You can easily adjust/reproduce it if you turn the wheel 90 degrees to the left or right and then pull the steering wheel lightly with your hand at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock.

Then it comes to these cracking noises. It is also definitely due to the plastic cover on the back, which sits in front of the QR. If I press this plastic cover against the steering wheel while pulling, no cracking noises are heard.

Please watch my video and turn up the volume. By the way, I am a former Fanatec DD1 user and do not know these problems so.



@LOGI_Rich

what do you say? I almost don't think that replacing the wheel will help, because it's plastic. You also can not easily get to the screws to check the tightness. For this, the QR would have to be removed.

In my opinion, there is too much tension on the plastic.

Can you possibly pass on the problem internally?

Many thanks and kind regards, Thomas

 

[LOGI_Rich]

Some creak from the assembly is expected, yes, especially when you're applying force in the direction you demonstrate there, which is outside of normal usage. This is what I was saying previously where we take this kind of thing on a case by case basis. Clearly in Miroshi's earlier case there was an issue with the QR adapter, so have you tried his method of removing the wheel rim and pushing on the QR adapter on the base, to make sure the sound isn't coming from there?

 

[Sturdy]

Hello all,

you're certainly talking about those cracking noises here, right? I recorded the video myself.

You can easily adjust/reproduce it if you turn the wheel 90 degrees to the left or right and then pull the steering wheel lightly with your hand at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock.

Then it comes to these cracking noises. It is also definitely due to the plastic cover on the back, which sits in front of the QR. If I press this plastic cover against the steering wheel while pulling, no cracking noises are heard.

Please watch my video and turn up the volume. By the way, I am a former Fanatec DD1 user and do not know these problems so.



@LOGI_Rich

what do you say? I almost don't think that replacing the wheel will help, because it's plastic. You also can not easily get to the screws to check the tightness. For this, the QR would have to be removed.

In my opinion, there is too much tension on the plastic.

Can you possibly pass on the problem internally?

Many thanks and kind regards, Thomas

2 things, firstly, those RB wheel stickers are cool

Secondly, I think you could be right in terms of that plastic cover, I noticed previously that by prodding around at that cover I could recreate the same 'click' sound. Quite possibly there are other sources of clicks and so on, but mine I think is because of that cover, there is no physical sensation, it's just the audible click.

 

[thomasoeli]

Some creak from the assembly is expected, yes, especially when you're applying force in the direction you demonstrate there, which is outside of normal usage. This is what I was saying previously where we take this kind of thing on a case by case basis. Clearly in Miroshi's earlier case there was an issue with the QR adapter, so have you tried his method of removing the wheel rim and pushing on the QR adapter on the base, to make sure the sound isn't coming from there?

In principle, I understand that a slight clack is normal. But in the video, I pull very slightly on the steering wheel. Here, I can provoke this click with one finger, so to speak.

And yes, I have also removed the wheel, but it can only be provoked by pressing lightly on 3 and 9 o'clock on the base when the wheel is rotated 90 degrees. I just can't twist the Wheel in my hand enough to make crackling noises here.

But you can easily minimize the problem with some tape, if you stick some TESA between the plastic cover and wheel and press the plastic cover. See photo attached.

I will get myself black, narrow tape and close this gap. I don't think Logitech can make any improvements here.

2 things, firstly, those RB wheel stickers are cool

Secondly, I think you could be right in terms of that plastic cover, I noticed previously that by prodding around at that cover I could recreate the same 'click' sound. Quite possibly there are other sources of clicks and so on, but mine I think is because of that cover, there is no physical sensation, it's just the audible click.

You can order the stickers for Wheel and Base here. The stickers are really very high quality. I already had them on the Fanatec Base. 😎

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You can attach some tape as you can see in my photo. Make sure that you press the plastic cover firmly and then attach the TESA. Then the cracking should be less.

For me, at least, it's a simple solution that you can hardly see. Therefore, I will soon switch to black tape.

 

[hawkeyez]

I sometimes also get a very slight "tick" sound, and also strangely just turning left but, like you note, it's only after the wheel has been in use for sometime. I think it originates from the rear of the base, there's probably the mounting for the shaft or an encoder in that area. Therefore I think it's heat related, just something internal warming up a little. If I leave the wheel alone with its fan running my tick will diminish and eventually disappear. Start from cold and it won't be there.

It doesn't bother me at all. You probably wouldn't normally hear it, it's just that the wheel is generally quiet in use you tend to pick it up. After having (and enjoying) a G29 for years with it's various rattles, a slight tick every now and then isn't a problem. If it was a clonk it would be.

As per the recommendation, I always let my wheel idle for a while to cool before switching it off at the mains.



Is that the one where some have to stick tape into the grove or fashion shims out of aluminium cans to reduce play on the shaft? 😉

My wheel mount is solid, no play at all. And I remove it most days since it makes it easier to get into the seat.

Next time it’s doing it, pop the wheel off, turn that black collar clockwise and counterclockwise until the scraping noise diminishes then pop it back on. See what you find. You may have a different problem but mine is clearly that spring end has an edge, it hooks and starts binding or loading up. It’s not heat related because if it did it the night before it’ll do it again on boot up on first race. The “click” progressively gets worse and worse over time until you really notice it. And come to think of it, I’m pretty sure I solved it before and forgot I posted my findings or my findings were slightly different.

Please anybody with the click when turning left give this a try. It makes sense it’s that spring because the spring would only catch one way, hence the reason it only clicks one way when turning.

 

[Blaze_409]

A few days, depending on their mood. This is very typical, this must've happened to everyone, including me. I've waited for my pedals a week before they could ship it to me. The support sale agent on the chat refused to tell me when it will ship, I asked for a rough estimate only. And no, it's not a typo, they literally refused to tell me.

It's because they don't know. That's the reality of supply chain.

Yes you will get a NEW unit. I went through the RMA process twice, first time 17 days, second time 30 days. So brace yourself. The only reason I did not just return it and ask for a refund is the next level experience the wheel offers. I believe there's nothing better currently on the market than this wheel. But I have to admit that for such a high price the wheel does not really meet premium quality requirements. Some units are ripe for RMA right out of the box (loose screws, rattling fans, clicking and creaking hubs), hopefully the majority does not have any issues. I'm dealing with the clicking and creaking hub issue even on my 3rd unit, but it's not as annoying as with the 2nd unit, at least for now, so I'm hoping I won't have to go through a 4th RMA.

Thank you. I got in touch with Logitech but I'm afraid to send them the wheel and get something worse in return (creaking wheel base). My wheel base is fine.

 

[IfAndOr]

The stickers are really very high quality.

Those are quite neat aren't they. I'm tempted with the Porsche one. 🙂
Are they easily removed if needed?

I can reproduce your creak/click but only if pressing on that plastic cover, not when in use. It seems to be a plastic on plastic tolerance thing. Your fix is probably all it needs.

You may have a different problem

Maybe, because there's certainly isn't any scraping noises, just the smallest of ticks.

 

[hawkeyez]

Those are quite neat aren't they. I'm tempted with the Porsche one. 🙂
Are they easily removed if needed?

I can reproduce your creak/click but only if pressing on that plastic cover, not when in use. It seems to be a plastic on plastic tolerance thing. Your fix is probably all it needs.

Maybe, because there's certainly isn't any scraping noises, just the smallest of ticks.

The scraping noise isn’t while using the wheel, while using the wheel it only clicks. The scraping noise is pulling the wheel off and giving the black release collar some spins.

 

[thomasoeli]

Those are quite neat aren't they. I'm tempted with the Porsche one. 🙂
Are they easily removed if needed?

I can reproduce your creak/click but only if pressing on that plastic cover, not when in use. It seems to be a plastic on plastic tolerance thing. Your fix is probably all it needs.

Hi,

then you should order the Porsche sticker. 😁😉

I can assure you that the stickers can be removed cleanly and without any problems. It can be removed in one piece and does not tear. It also doesn't leave any residue that has to be laboriously removed, as you might know from other stickers.

I had the stickers on my CSL Base + Wheel at the time and was able to remove them cleanly and without any problems before selling it.

So you don't need to hesitate before buying. 😉

Kind regards, Thomas

 

[MrCrossy]

Looking for some information guys, can anyone tell me if the Pro wheel can be used to control gas and brakes via the clutch paddles on PS5 GT7?

 

[LOGI_Rich]

Yes, that’s something you can configure on the OLED settings screen on the wheel base.

 

[MrCrossy]

Yes, that’s something you can configure on the OLED settings screen on the wheel base.

Thanks for the rapid reply, I ask because when I looked at the Wheel option in GT7 all the buttons are configurable but the 2 clutch paddles are greyed out, like they aren't mappable in GT7. So as you have said I would need to do this via the wheelbase.

 

[LOGI_Rich]

Yes, they’re not configurable within the game. If you look on the wheel’s OLED settings you’ll see the left and right clutch paddle options. In each of those you’ll see you can assign gas, brake, clutch, handbrake and two other axes (although GT7 doesn’t support those at this time).