Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

Oshawa-Joe


Good video. And make sure to watch from 11min on. I was doing what Suellio recommends, before I watched the video. Different goals.
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This Video should absolutely and definitely be a must see Video bundled with every Wheelbase sold no matter the Brand.
I uploaded the same Clip in den Fanatec DD+ Discussion Thread the day Suello uploaded it to YT.

The young lad describes it spot on.
Education at its finest 😅
 
Surfaze
I bought the drivehub because I ordered the xbox version of the logitech g pro for my PS5. I have the latest beta installed on the drivehub, but it doesn't detect the g pro wheel and has the spinning 8 figure. I have followed all the steps, set the wheel into xbox mode by default, but it just does not work. To clarify, I use the default PS5 controller. Even more bizzarely, when I switch the wheel and controller places, it recognizes the wheel as the G pro. However, when I try to press the xbox button on the wheel(when there is no controller connected to the ps5, it asks to press ps button to turn on). Due to this, I have to turn on the controller, following which I can't connect the wheel to the console or GT7. I have not downloaded a firmware update for the wheel and do not know if it is necessary.
If somebody else here has the same setup, can you please write me the instructions for how to set up the g pro wheel with my setup, or tell me where exactly I messed up?
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The PS5 controller won't work. You need to buy either a PS4 Hori Mini-Pad, or a PS4 Nacon Compact Controller and plug that into the controller port on the drivehub for it to work.
 
Grumpy-Gamer
@LOGI_Rich I noticed on the website where all the setting are posted that gt7 has the in game vibration to 150 and tf audio 100. Is that correct? It makes the true force extremely powerful almost un drivable for me. Any help would be appreciated
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If it’s too strong, lower the vibration. Do note that if you’re driving a Gr1 car at high speeds the oscillation issue is unrelated.
 
I noticed that Momo’s sites for the wheels no longer go to 404 pages. Seems like each wheel will run 219.99 direct from them. Their racer wheel is listed as 320 in the name/title but all description says 290. The round wheel is listed at 320 (as expected). I’ll hopefully be pulling the trigger on the round one come the 16th.
 
Hello, In the wake of the recent announcement that GeForce Now is officially coming to SteamDeck (incl. 4k HDR 60hz output), it occurred to me whether my Logitech G Pro steering wheel would work with SteamDeck and GeforceNow. Then you could play LeMans Ultimate (and maybe Assetto Corsa Evo in the near future) without having to buy a Windows PC. I know, input lag etc. but it would be worth a try. I think SteamOS and cloud gaming is a big part of the future. Then there's VR, there's also something coming from Valve/Steam.
Can anyone say anything about that?
 
@Grumpy-Gamer This is covered by the intro paragraph at the top of the settings page (key words in bold 😊):
Because game settings are subjective, the following suggestions are to help you determine which settings may improve your game experience. Where relevant, we've included the wheel's settings display, as well as in-game settings. These settings all assume that your wheel is set to 11Nm of strength — you can set the dampener settings lower if you're running the wheel at a lower strength. Feel free to experiment with your own settings to personalize the wheel to your preference.
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@donneratze no one has yet solved the latency issue to a high enough degree to enable force feedback to work with cloud gaming, even with console's slightly lower requirements of a 4/5ms report rate on standard force feedback (it's still 1ms for Trueforce though!). Vibration is fine because you're generally not going to notice if things are slightly out of sync, but the bi-directional nature of force feedback communication means that it will quickly get out of sync, resulting in all kinds of weirdness in what you're feeling. It can not be overstated just how tough a nut this will be to crack!
 
Well then you're looking at Linux and you're going to need to dig into some of the community-written support, such as the lg4ff package. You would probably need to run the wheel in G923 mode to get things working correctly for that.
 
My attempt at purchasing a Pro wheel continues to not go great.

Talked to customer support yesterday and they were absolutely unwilling to help and refused to give me even the roughest of timeframes for shipment.

Meanwhile I got a mail this morning informing me that the G Pro wheel is back in stock with a link to order which would be fine if I hadn't gotten the same mail a week ago and immediately ordered.

Fun fact - the store page still says shipping in 1 to 2 days...

Dare I say there might be something a bit "shady" going on? My guess is they actually don't have any stock.


I'm gonna give it till Monday and if I don't have any information by then I will cancel my order and buy it on eBay.
 
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GlamFM
Hey man, while you’re here - any idea when the pro racing wheel (PS) and pedals are back in stock?
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I ordered the PlayStation wheel base and then the actual wheel itself separately because it's $50 cheaper that way. However, I found out today that Amazon now sells the entire wheel and base for PlayStation and it's on sale right now for $900!
 
@LOGI_Rich I noticed someone in this thread suggested setting the torque on the wheel to 11 and then changing the torque setting in GT7 to your preference (he suggested 5-6 for road cars and 3 for race cars). Just wondering your thoughts on doing it that way vs leaving it at 10 in game and changing it on the wheel.

I tried it with 10 in game and 6 on the wheel and it was still ridiculously hard to turn the wheel. Changing it to 11 on the wheel and then 5 in game felt so much better but not too light. I'm coming from the G923 and I've got 663 hours in GT7 but I've never raced anything in real life so I don't have a clue how much FFB there should even be. 11nm or 6nm on the wheel and 10 torque in game felt like I was steering a brick though 😂
 
ChuckDizzle04
@LOGI_Rich I noticed someone in this thread suggested setting the torque on the wheel to 11 and then changing the torque setting in GT7 to your preference (he suggested 5-6 for road cars and 3 for race cars). Just wondering your thoughts on doing it that way vs leaving it at 10 in game and changing it on the wheel.

I tried it with 10 in game and 6 on the wheel and it was still ridiculously hard to turn the wheel. Changing it to 11 on the wheel and then 5 in game felt so much better but not too light. I'm coming from the G923 and I've got 663 hours in GT7 but I've never raced anything in real life so I don't have a clue how much FFB there should even be. 11nm or 6nm on the wheel and 10 torque in game felt like I was steering a brick though 😂
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Regarding 10 for race cars and 5 for street cars. There are some exceptions to this, but for the most part GT7 scales the feedback of the wheel already based on available traction the car’s front tires have. So stickier tire = more torque, more downforce = more torque, more weight on the front axle = more torque. Street cars tend to have have more weight over the front wheels but are equipped with less sticky tires. However, the major difference is lack of downforce. This should already naturally lower the holding torque of the wheel for street cars compared to race cars.

You can test this yourself, go put racing softs on a Gr3 car and run some laps on a medium or low speed track. Then go do the same with a street car. It should be less of a workout. Now, put some street tires onto the street car and do it again. You’ll have even less holding torque. If you want to take it a step further, slap some comfort tires and see how the feedback changes. There is a possibility they also take the power steering a car has into consideration too.

I will admit that there are exceptions to this. They tend to involve wildly high downforce cars like the Super Formula, X2019, and Dodge VGT (the VGT might have some super electronic power steering or something, who knows).

Edit: it’s likely that the increase in feedback in GT7 (5 or 6 to 10) is non-linear while the change in the wheel is very much linear. This might help explain the differences you’re feeling. But do note a couple things. There is a bug with the game reading the G Pro as a G29 and creating very heavy feedback if you power on the console with the wheel. You’re moving from a wheel that provides roughly 3 Nm of feedback to something that provides 11.
 
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tinyman392
Regarding 10 for race cars and 5 for street cars. There are some exceptions to this, but for the most part GT7 scales the feedback of the wheel already based on available traction the car’s front tires have. So stickier tire = more torque, more downforce = more torque, more weight on the front axle = more torque. Street cars tend to have have more weight over the front wheels but are equipped with less sticky tires. However, the major difference is lack of downforce. This should already naturally lower the holding torque of the wheel for street cars compared to race cars.

You can test this yourself, go put racing softs on a Gr3 car and run some laps on a medium or low speed track. Then go do the same with a street car. It should be less of a workout. Now, put some street tires onto the street car and do it again. You’ll have even less holding torque. If you want to take it a step further, slap some comfort tires and see how the feedback changes. There is a possibility they also take the power steering a car has into consideration too.

I will admit that there are exceptions to this. They tend to involve wildly high downforce cars like the Super Formula, X2019, and Dodge VGT (the VGT might have some super electronic power steering or something, who knows).

Edit: it’s likely that the increase in feedback in GT7 (5 or 6 to 10) is non-linear while the change in the wheel is very much linear. This might help explain the differences you’re feeling. But do note a couple things. There is a bug with the game reading the G Pro as a G29 and creating very heavy feedback if you power on the console with the wheel. You’re moving from a wheel that provides roughly 3 Nm of feedback to something that provides 11.
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That doesn't make sense to me, if a car has more grip because of downforce or stickier tires, why would it be harder to turn the wheel? Shouldn't the car handle better and thus it should be easier to turn the wheel? If I set the torque higher, it becomes waaaay harder to actually make turns. I set my wheel to 11nm and then did laps on Spa with the Greddy Fugu Z with the torque set to 10, 6, and then 5. I was faster as the torque lowered because I could actually feel the feedback from the tires and I wasn't just trying to force a wheel that was fighting me with all of its power. Unless I'm completely misunderstanding what you're saying, I'd think that a race car that has better handling would have way less resistance when turning than a car that has way less grip (and thus would want to continue going straight instead of turning)
 
ChuckDizzle04
That doesn't make sense to me, if a car has more grip because of downforce or stickier tires, why would it be harder to turn the wheel? Shouldn't the car handle better and thus it should be easier to turn the wheel? If I set the torque higher, it becomes waaaay harder to actually make turns. I set my wheel to 11nm and then did laps on Spa with the Greddy Fugu Z with the torque set to 10, 6, and then 5. I was faster as the torque lowered because I could actually feel the feedback from the tires and I wasn't just trying to force a wheel that was fighting me with all of its power. Unless I'm completely misunderstanding what you're saying, I'd think that a race car that has better handling would have way less resistance when turning than a car that has way less grip (and thus would want to continue going straight instead of turning)
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A street car provides roughly 3-6 Nm while a GT3 race car can provide 10-15 Nm in real life. You should absolutely take a GR3 race car around the track in GT7 to see for yourself. It will be much heavier and more or less be a workout if you do a long race.

Regarding faster lap times with lower feedback. This is something that is absolutely true. If you’re fighting the wheel (and car) less you’ll absolutely drive faster laps. Realistically, to drive fast in any sim, you want the feedback to be strong enough for you to feel the minute details but not overly strong where you’re fighting the wheel the entire time. A 5 Nm GT4 car might not be the most realistic, but it can definitely provide faster lap times in the sim. Depends on what you’re chasing.

Regarding less grip = more resistance. If you live in a cold climate. Get into your car and turn your wheel at a stop on asphalt. Then do the same when on ice or on snow. The asphalt (which has more grip) will be harder to turn.
 
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tinyman392
A street car provides roughly 3-6 Nm while a GT3 race car can provide 10-15 Nm in real life. You should absolutely take a GR3 race car around the track in GT7 to see for yourself. It will be much heavier and more or less be a workout if you do a long race.

Regarding faster lap times with lower feedback. This is something that is absolutely true. If you’re fighting the wheel (and car) less you’ll absolutely drive faster laps. Realistically, to drive fast in any sim, you want the feedback to be strong enough for you to feel the minute details but not overly strong where you’re fighting the wheel the entire time. A 5 Nm GT4 car might not be the most realistic, but it can definitely provide faster lap times in the sim. Depends on what you’re chasing.

Regarding less grip = more resistance. If you live in a cold climate. Get into your car and turn your wheel at a stop on asphalt. Then do the same when on ice or on snow. The asphalt (which has more grip) will be harder to turn.
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Ok so I should set the wheel to 11nm and then do some laps in a Gr3 car and then a street car both at the same in game torque setting to see the difference? So the guy in here that said set it to 3 for race cars and 5-6 for road cars was wrong because it should be already different in game and just to leave it at the same setting for all cars?
 
ChuckDizzle04
Ok so I should set the wheel to 11nm and then do some laps in a Gr3 car and then a street car both at the same in game torque setting to see the difference? So the guy in here that said set it to 3 for race cars and 5-6 for road cars was wrong because it should be already different in game and just to leave it at the same setting for all cars?
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He wasn't "wrong", he just wants less torque on the wheel than the higher grip cars will provide.

Force feedback levels are commensurate with the level of mechanical grip any car has. Whether that grip is enhanced with tires, suspension, chassis and steering geometry, kinetic and/or aerodymamic weight, material technology or not, the force feedback is still a result of all of those things effects on mechanical grip, felt through all those aforementioned properties and all are variable at any given time while driving.

I'm currently running these settings;
1736669408013.png


I keep these settings for all the cars. I've been slowly ramping up the Brake Force at the pedal, as my left foot gets used to the increased pressure required. That started out at 15.

Like I said in an earlier post, pick a car as close to something you drive IRL, change the in game settings to as closely match what you remember from that and leave it there. Or, just keep fiddling with settings until you like what you feel. That's why all those settings are available.

I've gone through 8 iterations of changes now. Not sure where I might settle on things. Then, there's PD's penchant for changing the game's FFB capabilities.
 
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ChuckDizzle04
Ok so I should set the wheel to 11nm and then do some laps in a Gr3 car and then a street car both at the same in game torque setting to see the difference? So the guy in here that said set it to 3 for race cars and 5-6 for road cars was wrong because it should be already different in game and just to leave it at the same setting for all cars?
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If you set the setting lower for race cars than street cars, it essentially tries to set the peak torque of all cars to be the same. If that’s what you’re looking for, follow that advice.
 
ChuckDizzle04
I ordered the PlayStation wheel base and then the actual wheel itself separately because it's $50 cheaper that way. However, I found out today that Amazon now sells the entire wheel and base for PlayStation and it's on sale right now for $900!
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Had me all excited for a bit there because I never even thought about ordering from Amazon.
Unfortunately the pedals are sold out there right now.

That leaves me with the Logitech store.

I will make one last attempt to reach customer support on Monday (they haven’t gotten back to me in almost a week) and if I don’t get any information I won’t become a customer.
 
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GlamFM
Had me all excited for a bit there because I never even thought about ordering Amazon.
Unfortunately the pedals are sold out there right now.

That leaves me with the Logitech store.

I will make one last attempt to reach customer support on Monday (they haven’t gotten back to me in almost a week) and if I don’t get any information I won’t become a customer.
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I was able to order the pedals just last week from Logitech. I got the wheel and base as well. They'll be back in stock soon I'm sure. Just keep checking and if Amazon has the wheel and base for cheaper then order one from Amazon and the other from Logitech. It'll be worth it
 
ChuckDizzle04
I was able to order the pedals just last week from Logitech. I got the wheel and base as well. They'll be back in stock soon I'm sure. Just keep checking and if Amazon has the wheel and base for cheaper then order one from Amazon and the other from Logitech. It'll be worth it
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How long did it take Logitech to deliver to you after you ordered?
 

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