Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

Yes, it’s not intended for this use case, because you already have the brake force setting on the wheel base. It’s only there for people connecting pro pedals into the G-series wheels where there would otherwise be no way to adjust it.
 
Hi @LOGI_Rich or anyone who can possibly help

My G Racing adapter is finally here - whoohoo! :D

All I want to use it for is to adjust the brake pedal force on the fly. I am using the G pro wheel and pedals, and the RS shifter/handbrake.

I thought all I had to do was unplug the pedals from the usb in the base and plug them into the usb on the adapter, then plug the adapter into the usb on the base?

I've done this but nothing happens, as if the pedals are not plugged in. I have checked that the adapter firmware is up to date. When I plug the adapter into the base it clicks once and that is all it does.

I have tried unplugging the pedals and plugging them back in, re booted the wheelbase etc etc but still nothing.

What am I doing wrong here? :confused::confused::confused:
I made this same mistake when it was released hoping I can adjust on the fly with the Pro. I’m really sorry you went through this just to find it doesn’t work. My adapter is just sitting on shelf here. I can’t remember if I read the website incorrectly, or didn’t see anything and assumed it worked Pro on the fly.
 
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I made this same mistake when it was released hoping I can adjust on the fly with the Pro. I’m really sorry you went through this just to find it doesn’t work. My adapter is just sitting on shelf here. I can’t remember if I read the website incorrectly, or didn’t see anything and assumed it worked Pro on the fly.
Yes, it’s not intended for this use case, because you already have the brake force setting on the wheel base. It’s only there for people connecting pro pedals into the G-series wheels where there would otherwise be no way to adjust it.
Great, so all that hassle for nothing! 🤪🙈😂

That is so retarded though, you'd have though it would be a great idea to make it work with the pro wheel and pedals as well, yeah yeah you can adjust brake force via the wheelbase, but have you ever tried that in the middle of a race?, it's almost impossible to do without incident!

@LOGI_Rich do you think it's something that could be made possible with a firmware update?
 
Its a shame that the dial cannot be mapped to control something on the fly (G Pro wheel torque, brake force etc)

My adapter is just sitting on shelf here.

Then sell it. I recently re-sold mine for exactly what I paid originally. Thanks Logitech for being out of stock and creating a seller's market! :lol:
 
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I recently bought a G Pro wheel and pedals and have it set up on my Playseat Challenge. Looking to get a wheel plate reinforcement mod from either Indigo Lime or Lowdown shifter. Any recommendations between these two?

Also just to add, I bought mine direct from logitech after all their issues with payment. Super smooth process, ordered late Friday, came next Friday within their estimated time.
 
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Its a shame that the dial cannot be mapped to control something on the fly (G Pro wheel torque, brake force etc)



Then sell it. I recently re-sold mine for exactly what I paid originally. Thanks Logitech for being out of stock and creating a seller's market! :lol:
Oh no, that’s ok. It was only like $35 I think, that is not something that is worth the hassle and effort.
 
I recently bought a G Pro wheel and pedals and have it set up on my Playseat Challenge. Looking to get a wheel plate reinforcement mod from either Indigo Lime or Lowdown shifter. Any recommendations between these two?

Also just to add, I bought mine direct from logitech after all their issues with payment. Super smooth process, ordered late Friday, came next Friday within their estimated time.
I had the Indigo Lime Pro braces when I used a Playseat and they worked really well tbh.
 
I prefer the size of the D wheel to the size of Logitech's round wheel. However, the button layout and mapping is different when playing on the Playstation. The Momo wheel is the best round-ish wheel, IMO, for the Pro wheel currently. I don't think I could comfortably go any larger with its 320mm without sacrificing the usability of the paddles which are already stretching it far.
I agree the Momo 320 is the best overall wheel and the best round wheel for sure. There is nothing wrong with the D wheel, good quality wheels. Out of all the Logi wheels, Mpi, and acelith(don’t buy) I have, the 320 feels best. Momo suede is top notch, wear gloves. The 290 is great but the grips are small diameter and there are no contours on the grips and my fingers touch when wrapped around.

The 320 has nice thick substantial grips that fit my clunky hands. I like the contours on the inside edge that you see above your thumb as well as contours on the back that you don’t see both below your hand and above. You can hold your hands lightly on the wheel and still be locked in from the contour. 320 works well for any car and is easily the best overall wheel. For me at least. MOMO/logitech did a great job on this RS hub/wheel upgrade. It’s worth it!!!
 
YouTuber he does a lot of sim racing and GT7 videos.
Hey....if there are any questions.... Like don't expect him to deep dive into random cars.

However typically what's going to happen is he's going to run this thing for several hours in top split lobbies driving amongst the top tier of gt7 drivers. He's very interactive for questions etc.

So if there are any quality questions out there... I know I still have my struggles dialing things in at times. Feel free to put them here...this isnt a sponsor deal just honest opinion from top GT7 driver.

@LOGI_Rich has earned a little community support, it would be great our little community had a baseline video for this info.
 
Since we're on the subject of DG, there also this going on. 1 week to get in on it.

 
@LOGI_Rich is it posible to downgrade the Ghub to a previous version?
The latest version of Ghub messed up all my racing game setting - iRacing, ACC, Race Room, AMS2....., but in RF2 the FFB is complitely gone.
I few days back on the old GHub version everything was fine.

Here is a forum tread with another users having exact same problem

 
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Hey guys! Have any of you had issues with the directional joystick on the standard G Pro wheel rim? Yesterday, mine started failing to register going "down". Other directions work fine at the moment. But going down is super flaky... for every 5 clicks it registers once or twice.
 
Hey guys! Have any of you had issues with the directional joystick on the standard G Pro wheel rim? Yesterday, mine started failing to register going "down". Other directions work fine at the moment. But going down is super flaky... for every 5 clicks it registers once or twice.
Yes. Had the same. It resolved itself after more use again. Probably dust. It's defiantly a lesser part of the product in terms of quality.
A Mk2 deserves a part that is $2 per part more.
 
Since we're on the subject of DG, there also this going on. 1 week to get in on it.

Hey mate,

Are you on Logitech DD?
 
Yes. Had the same. It resolved itself after more use again. Probably dust. It's defiantly a lesser part of the product in terms of quality.
A Mk2 deserves a part that is $2 per part more.
Thanks for sharing man! I'll try hitting it with some compressed air if the issue doesn't resolve itself in a few days...
 
Hey mate,

Are you on Logitech DD?
Yup. Since this past December. Upgraded from a G29 I'd been rolling with since Dec. '22.

@LOGI_Rich Can you think of any circumstance where True Force would drop out completely while driving? I was "having a moment" last night and was one fingering the wheel around while having that moment, True Force was in full effect prior and dropped out at some point during that moment. I'm pretty sure some buttons got mashed that were not intended and probably shouldn't have been getting mashed. Turn 1 lap 5 on replay shared with tags trueforce, logitech & gpro. I ran the rest of that race without True Force and the general force feedback was, less.

It's curious how a person can get so used to something and not be impressed with its existence. When True Force dropped out, I noticed its lack almost immediately. After the complete reboot/reset of everything brought it back into play, I was once again impressed with how much it adds to the sensations of driving. Disappointingly, it took less than 3 laps around Le Mans for that "feeling" to attenuate to its previous level. Of course, tooling around 'Sarthe, at night, in VR, at 150MPH, definitely gives a bit to distract while driving an open top car. 3D Audio is certainly impressive and hearing the motors synchronizing in choral glory is, well, glorious. The setup I currently have can only be described as what I interpret to be the way this game was intended to be played. I took off VR while I was fiddling around trying to get True Force back, so I could see the wheel display screen, and discovered the truth of something I'd already decided. Driving with the pancake display is a no go now. It just sucks a bag of rutabagas.
 
Thanks for sharing man! I'll try hitting it with some compressed air if the issue doesn't resolve itself in a few days...
I had the same issue. Try twisting the knob slightly back and forth, very gently, it will turn a few degrees. Do that a bit and also be sure to move up and down and left and right sometimes. After a while, if there’s dust, it should work its way out. Be very gentle/delicate with the very slight twisting though.
 
Yup. Since this past December. Upgraded from a G29 I'd been rolling with since Dec. '22.

@LOGI_Rich Can you think of any circumstance where True Force would drop out completely while driving? I was "having a moment" last night and was one fingering the wheel around while having that moment, True Force was in full effect prior and dropped out at some point during that moment. I'm pretty sure some buttons got mashed that were not intended and probably shouldn't have been getting mashed. Turn 1 lap 5 on replay shared with tags trueforce, logitech & gpro. I ran the rest of that race without True Force and the general force feedback was, less.

It's curious how a person can get so used to something and not be impressed with its existence. When True Force dropped out, I noticed its lack almost immediately. After the complete reboot/reset of everything brought it back into play, I was once again impressed with how much it adds to the sensations of driving. Disappointingly, it took less than 3 laps around Le Mans for that "feeling" to attenuate to its previous level. Of course, tooling around 'Sarthe, at night, in VR, at 150MPH, definitely gives a bit to distract while driving an open top car. 3D Audio is certainly impressive and hearing the motors synchronizing in choral glory is, well, glorious. The setup I currently have can only be described as what I interpret to be the way this game was intended to be played. I took off VR while I was fiddling around trying to get True Force back, so I could see the wheel display screen, and discovered the truth of something I'd already decided. Driving with the pancake display is a no go now. It just sucks a bag of rutabagas.
I’ve had my TrueForce randomly cut out completely while racing in GT. It happens very rarely. I assume it’s a bug of some sort. If I remember correctly putting the PS5 to rest mode, then shutting off the wheel and restarting everything fixes it. It is an odd bug though. One which I’ve only experienced 3-5 times in the last 10 months.
 
I encountered the same problem two times with GT7 and I have the Gpro since December. I would like to know more about this issue. Does it need to be fixed or will it be patched with an update? Is it on Logitechs or Polyphonys side?
 
Yup. Since this past December. Upgraded from a G29 I'd been rolling with since Dec. '22.

@LOGI_Rich Can you think of any circumstance where True Force would drop out completely while driving? I was "having a moment" last night and was one fingering the wheel around while having that moment, True Force was in full effect prior and dropped out at some point during that moment. I'm pretty sure some buttons got mashed that were not intended and probably shouldn't have been getting mashed. Turn 1 lap 5 on replay shared with tags trueforce, logitech & gpro. I ran the rest of that race without True Force and the general force feedback was, less.

It's curious how a person can get so used to something and not be impressed with its existence. When True Force dropped out, I noticed its lack almost immediately. After the complete reboot/reset of everything brought it back into play, I was once again impressed with how much it adds to the sensations of driving. Disappointingly, it took less than 3 laps around Le Mans for that "feeling" to attenuate to its previous level. Of course, tooling around 'Sarthe, at night, in VR, at 150MPH, definitely gives a bit to distract while driving an open top car. 3D Audio is certainly impressive and hearing the motors synchronizing in choral glory is, well, glorious. The setup I currently have can only be described as what I interpret to be the way this game was intended to be played. I took off VR while I was fiddling around trying to get True Force back, so I could see the wheel display screen, and discovered the truth of something I'd already decided. Driving with the pancake display is a no go now. It just sucks a bag of rutabagas.
Same here. It happened twice in one year of use. Last time was 3 weeks ago in daily race c (red bull ring). I left sport mode then went back and everything was ok.
 
It's exceedingly unlikely to be a faulty wheel, but testing in other titles will confirm that. Definitely check that lozenge on the home screen - that's where it really tells you which version you're running.

I forgot one other thing to try - make sure the wheel is only connected to the PS5 once you're at the "Press the PS button" screen.
Just circling back around to this for posterity.

I took the wheel to my house and it worked perfectly.

I told him it was fine and so it had to be something simple he was missing on his end. Turns out it was an aftermarket headset he was using. He unplugged it and the wheel came right to life.

So, thanks for the response. You do well for Logitech here, sir!
 
@Oi Oi JC it's a solid recommendation that you don't adjust Brake Force on the fly - get it set where you like it and leave it. One of the main benefits of a load cell is the muscle memory that you develop - if you keep adjusting the brake force then you're not building up the muscle memory.

@morfei1 we're investigating this issue in rFactor 2. You can roll back to the 2023.1 version and disable auto updates for now.


Regarding Trueforce dropping out, if the console gets to a point where performance can be constrained, it could affect the Trueforce thread. Make sure you always quit the games you run and only use the full power off option (not rest mode) for the console.
 
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Regarding Trueforce dropping out, if the console gets to a point where performance can be constrained, it could affect the Trueforce thread. Make sure you always quit the games you run and only use the full power off option (not rest mode) for the console.

In my case, the only time I put the PS in rest mode is when I know there is an update for GT7 inbound overnight, and/or during the day while I'm at work. I think, after those updates are confirmed installed after resuming from rest mode, I restart the console. So, once a month my PS goes to rest mode, all other times I use the "Turn Off PS5" option and it always gets turned off when I'm sleeping. Also, my boot up routine when I plan to use the wheel is:

  1. Boot PS5 from DS.
  2. "Activate" DS controller at user screen.
  3. At console home screen, power up wheel, let it boot/center and "Activate" (PS button>>X) for current user.
  4. Turn on VR, wait for console to recognize it is on.
  5. Launch GT7

Is the above sequence incorrectly done?

I reckon what I was specifically asking, and not being precise enough with my language, is, can you think of any input scenario, steering, pedals, shifter, buttons, dials and directional stick, that might cause True Force to take a vacation. During my "moment", when it happened, I think it's entirely possible I was operating the left dial, stick, 1-3 buttons while attempting to steer, brake, gas, clutch and shifting, all at the same time. And no, there was no intent to do all that simultaneously, was just trying to stay on the track.

What point would cause the console's performance to be constrained? We talking little men in white coats constraining it? ;)
 
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