Yeah you may be right. I tested the RSR and that felt pretty good.
Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel
- Thread starter timekiller001
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Has anyone tried any brake mod for the pro pedals? I’ve seen one available for the pro pedals on Etsy as well as 3Drap’s mod. After digits review of the pedals I’m convinced the short foam piece may be my issue. I have a tendency to drop the brakes from 100-50% (not a smooth release) but from 50-0% I’m able to release smoothly. @LOGI_Rich are we able to purchase additional elastomers from Logitech? Or perhaps any recommendations on brake pedal set up? Currently running Green, Yellow, stiff short foam piece. Thanks!
- 1,209
- Surrey, United
- Marky264
@LOGI_Rich Any Update on when us 🇬🇧 UK Folk can get hold of the Momo Rims please? Still been checking Amazon daily & Logi Website and still nothing. 😔
My brakes were the opposite. I needed to smooth out the lower half. Adjusting the "sensitivity" in G Hub worked. I believe I raised it, so there was more sampling of the travel on the lower half.
Important to note: You have to plug the brakes straight into your PC, not brakes-to-wheel-to-PC in order to get the option. Unless there's some other way to do it.
This can't be done, unfortunately. If I try to use the wheel first, I turn it on, then hit the "PS" button to start the console, but the PS won't play nice like that. It wants the dualsense first.
The wheel will just say "plug in to USB".
So, I use the dualsense to start the console, then get in to my profile, turn on the wheel, use it for my profile, and then go ahead and shut off the dualsense like you said, from the wheel as a controller. (Thank you for that, i forgot that was an option.)
Then I launch GT7 with the wheel.
The wheel is then recognized only as a G923. Double-verified, the wheel was always in G Pro mode.
The only way through this is to quit GT7, and make sure the dualsense is active and available. Restart the wheel. Restart GT7.
Convoluted, I know. But this is what's going on. Hopefully the details are of some use to you Rich!
Thanks!
Oh the one thing I didn't try was turning the PS on from the front-panel button first and then seeing if I could go straight to the wheel.
- 78
- United States
Yep, just tested it and that worked OK. Console power on (with the front-panel button), then use the wheel only, as the controller.
Thanks tinyman.
But then tested the second method again, and the wheel was recognized as a 923 if I shut the dualsense off before launching the game with the wheel. That's wild.
- 14
- Netherlands
Tip: when turning on your PS5 with the controller, you can turn the controller off in the profile selection screen by pressing O. By the time it's there, I've had time to sit in my rig, put my PSVR in my lap, and turn on both PSVR and GPro after turning off the controller. I actually don't turn on my TV at all. I know the controller is at the profile selection screen when its light turns white (though that may be setting-specific).
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- 174
- United States
Here's how I do it, has always worked for me and my setup. No dualsense required.
Set monitor to HDMI input. Wake PS5 with physical button. Wheel is already connected to ps5.
My PS5 logs me in automatically, no profile selection. Not sure if its a setting or because rest mode but it's always worked that way for me. So brings me right to the XMB home page.
Turn on G pro, select PS5 mode, and GT7 wheel profile. The wheel centers. Hit the PS button on the wheel to establish connection to the PS5. Wheel now works as my primary controller and I am able to fully navigate the PS5 home screen to adjust any settings, and boot the game + navigate the game menus.
I have used a dualsense to turn on the PS5 remotely and then turned off the dualsense once the wheel is connected, but the rest of the process remains the same either way. It also worked leaving the dualsense on, but since the wheel works as a controller for me I do not bother with the dualsense anymore.
Set monitor to HDMI input. Wake PS5 with physical button. Wheel is already connected to ps5.
My PS5 logs me in automatically, no profile selection. Not sure if its a setting or because rest mode but it's always worked that way for me. So brings me right to the XMB home page.
Turn on G pro, select PS5 mode, and GT7 wheel profile. The wheel centers. Hit the PS button on the wheel to establish connection to the PS5. Wheel now works as my primary controller and I am able to fully navigate the PS5 home screen to adjust any settings, and boot the game + navigate the game menus.
I have used a dualsense to turn on the PS5 remotely and then turned off the dualsense once the wheel is connected, but the rest of the process remains the same either way. It also worked leaving the dualsense on, but since the wheel works as a controller for me I do not bother with the dualsense anymore.
- 141
- United States
Im sorry I would do the spoiler option thingy to condense , but I literally have no idea how to do that. Sorry if someone knows how then I think I can edit it.
I’m honestly not being a jerk here, but I feel the need to share the other side so others aren’t concerned in investing in a Gpro. I feel awful for the issues some of you are having. Just going to share my exact sequence.
I never ever turn ps5 pro off, just rest mode. And I always leave gt7 running and on the home map all of the time. Wake it with the controller and get to the daily race matchmaking screen and list of drivers.
I also always pregame before I race. By the time that’s done, rolling start has begun, I run to the rig and fire up the wheel while we are moving in rolling start.
Then I put on the vr2, sometimes it asks for area reset and by the time I’m done with that I have 2 rolling start seconds left to pause and check the eye distance thingy and then we reach the start line. I don’t use hud or info, so sometimes I slack a few seconds. Grid starts I have been caught numerous times not being ready and just rumble to last lol. I try to start grid starts in the matchmaking.
I have never turned the controller off a single time. It’s always on. But everything just works, fire it all up as the race is beginning. I’ve never had any wheel issue with that sequence. Oh I turn the power to usb ports off option when in rest mode.
I’m not fast but I get clean races often. No hud or any info is so liberating. Mirrors and sometimes cars have a rear view cam. It’s a blast. I literally power everything as the race is starting.
Never had to reset anything unless like system update closes the game. Again, I’m not fast comparatively to the posters on here. But gd it’s nice to have some escapism for an hour or two. Everything just works.
Just my experience, just over 400 daily races with this same compact sequence while cars are already moving. Exactly how it goes except If I run multiple races same deal but wheel is still ready and so is vr2. Which gives me an extra 2-3 seconds to complete pregame
I have never had the wheel not turn on, and I’ve never lost any connection or true force. Just my experience. G Pro for the win!
I’m honestly not being a jerk here, but I feel the need to share the other side so others aren’t concerned in investing in a Gpro. I feel awful for the issues some of you are having. Just going to share my exact sequence.
I never ever turn ps5 pro off, just rest mode. And I always leave gt7 running and on the home map all of the time. Wake it with the controller and get to the daily race matchmaking screen and list of drivers.
I also always pregame before I race. By the time that’s done, rolling start has begun, I run to the rig and fire up the wheel while we are moving in rolling start.
Then I put on the vr2, sometimes it asks for area reset and by the time I’m done with that I have 2 rolling start seconds left to pause and check the eye distance thingy and then we reach the start line. I don’t use hud or info, so sometimes I slack a few seconds. Grid starts I have been caught numerous times not being ready and just rumble to last lol. I try to start grid starts in the matchmaking.
I have never turned the controller off a single time. It’s always on. But everything just works, fire it all up as the race is beginning. I’ve never had any wheel issue with that sequence. Oh I turn the power to usb ports off option when in rest mode.
I’m not fast but I get clean races often. No hud or any info is so liberating. Mirrors and sometimes cars have a rear view cam. It’s a blast. I literally power everything as the race is starting.
Never had to reset anything unless like system update closes the game. Again, I’m not fast comparatively to the posters on here. But gd it’s nice to have some escapism for an hour or two. Everything just works.
Just my experience, just over 400 daily races with this same compact sequence while cars are already moving. Exactly how it goes except If I run multiple races same deal but wheel is still ready and so is vr2. Which gives me an extra 2-3 seconds to complete pregame
I have never had the wheel not turn on, and I’ve never lost any connection or true force. Just my experience. G Pro for the win!
- 141
- United States
I take that back, the first 150 daily races were on a g29. Oh and on the G Pro I’ve always used usb extension without issue. vr2 as well
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Dragonwhisky
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- 7,171
- the land of green, hills, rocks & whiskey
- Dragonwhisky
Along the lines of @EricTheActor 's post.
I've only had my GPro since December last and I always use this sequence
I always, (excepting the once mentioned later) use this sequence and only had 1 drop of True Force, I'm pretty sure came from disregarding this sequence and powering up the wheel and pressing the PS button after launching GT7. Definitely notice when True Force is not active. The wheel is set to always be PS5 and G-Pro modes.
The only time I place the PS in "Rest Mode" is when I'm expecting a GT7 update to drop while I'm sleeping or at work. All other times it gets shut down.
If I have GT7 launched without powering up the wheel beforehand, and decide I'm going to drive, I return to PS home screen, close the game, reboot the PS and do the above sequence in order.
For those having issues with G-Hub. Make sure the application is set to save settings to the wheel and everything you set on G-Hub will stay on the wheel, regardless of whether it's plugged in to a PC or console. You can save up to, I think, 5 profiles using G-Hub to the wheel and be able to switch between them at the wheel.
I've only had my GPro since December last and I always use this sequence
- Dual Sense, either connected hard line or not, to boot up the PS5 and now PS5 Pro.
- If I plan to actually use the wheel, at the main PS home screen I power up the wheel, before launching GT7
- After wheel is done booting I press the PS button then X, to get past the who's using this controller prompt.
- Power up VR2 scope
- Launch GT7
- Play with both wheel and DS active, sometimes, late at night, with a headset plugged into DS audio port.
I always, (excepting the once mentioned later) use this sequence and only had 1 drop of True Force, I'm pretty sure came from disregarding this sequence and powering up the wheel and pressing the PS button after launching GT7. Definitely notice when True Force is not active. The wheel is set to always be PS5 and G-Pro modes.
The only time I place the PS in "Rest Mode" is when I'm expecting a GT7 update to drop while I'm sleeping or at work. All other times it gets shut down.
If I have GT7 launched without powering up the wheel beforehand, and decide I'm going to drive, I return to PS home screen, close the game, reboot the PS and do the above sequence in order.
For those having issues with G-Hub. Make sure the application is set to save settings to the wheel and everything you set on G-Hub will stay on the wheel, regardless of whether it's plugged in to a PC or console. You can save up to, I think, 5 profiles using G-Hub to the wheel and be able to switch between them at the wheel.
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