Logitech G923 rattle fix

[hawkeyez]

hi thanks I did notice the bar moved up and down to, it's obviously designed to do that.

Yep.all people have the rattle of plastic on plastic from new to.

You only have to lose traction a little bit when cornering at high speed and that's normally when it starts to rattle like crazy.. my guess is that could be fixed by a software fix.

But I reckon the only thing that would fix it really is a metal cog on to metal cog and not the gold.metal cog onto a plastic one.

People.have tried all sorts even buying a new aluminium housing and it don't work.

Re-greasing doesn't fix this issue.either..

Nothing works to get rid of all the of the annoying rattle you will get from the slightest bit of loss of traction .

But there are other issues you can fix like mine. Mine was just rattling the moment you turned right.

The old G27 I think had straight cut gears, they don’t have axial thrust but they’re louder so you can hear a whirring when it turns or spins. Helical gears by design thrust axially so I think they designed there to be some float. Problem is, their spring contraption isn’t sufficient. The O-Ring behind the helical gears act as rubber bumpers, so it’s a good fix as they’re only bumping into the O-Rings, not continually rubbing on them. Obviously grease them still. You definitely do want to take out too much movement from the shafts as you want them to still move because it’s using helical gears. They should float somewhat. I believe it’s a built in design, if you just lock em down, you might shred up the big plastic gear sooner.

Long story short, either way, the G29/G923 has a design flaw imo. My guess is they did it the way they did it because it’s cheaper and thus equals more profit.

 

[mr-ramsbottom]

The old G27 I think had straight cut gears, they don’t have axial thrust but they’re louder so you can hear a whirring when it turns or spins. Helical gears by design thrust axially so I think they designed there to be some float. Problem is, their spring contraption isn’t sufficient. The O-Ring behind the helical gears act as rubber bumpers, so it’s a good fix as they’re only bumping into the O-Rings, not continually rubbing on them. Obviously grease them still. You definitely do want to take out too much movement from the shafts as you want them to still move because it’s using helical gears. They should float somewhat. I believe it’s a built in design, if you just lock em down, you might shred up the big plastic gear sooner.

Long story short, either way, the G29/G923 has a design flaw imo. My guess is they did it the way they did it because it’s cheaper and thus equals more profit.

Hi thanks,. I can now confirm that I'm hardly getting any rattles at all since I did what I did.

I did the fix four days ago first two days there was still to many rattles, .my guess is I hadn't pushed the white housing down far enough or one was sitting up.

The play you mentioned in the bar with gold cog is something that would no longer be there when its being pushed by the the spring behind the white circle housing it sits in.

Conclusion is the rattle would happen because the spring is pushing the bar up either not enough or too much from new, and gets worse as the white circular housing wares.

So when you take those gears out to put an oh ring on to cushion the play, that's what the white little circular housing should be doing, as it should be pushing it up to stop the play.

Trouble is it pushes it up to far, and probably not just causing the metal tap but also the biggest plastic cog to hit the white circular housing .

Probably the issue from new to some may have not enough tension from new

I've removed the springs behind the white little housings, no plastic tapping and no more metal tapping. Metal tapping has probably gone.dew.to the fact the gold cog is floating but floating more away from the metal.

I've played for two days and now only get a rattle when I really start to lose traction which is a good thing, but that's more like because I'm not turning in or out with the wheels as good, 😊

 

[hawkeyez]

Hi thanks,. I can now confirm that I'm hardly getting any rattles at all since I did what I did.

I did the fix four days ago first two days there was still to many rattles, .my guess is I hadn't pushed the white housing down far enough or one was sitting up.

The play you mentioned in the bar with gold cog is something that would no longer be there when its being pushed by the the spring behind the white circle housing it sits in.

Conclusion is the rattle would happen because the spring is pushing the bar up either not enough or too much from new, and gets worse as the white circular housing wares.

So when you take those gears out to put an oh ring on to cushion the play, that's what the white little circular housing should be doing, as it should be pushing it up to stop the play.

Trouble is it pushes it up to far, and probably not just causing the metal tap but also the biggest plastic cog to hit the white circular housing .

Probably the issue from new to some may have not enough tension from new

I've removed the springs behind the white little housings, no plastic tapping and no more metal tapping. Metal tapping has probably gone.dew.to the fact the gold cog is floating but floating more away from the metal.

I've played for two days and now only get a rattle when I really start to lose traction which is a good thing, but that's more like because I'm not turning in or out with the wheels as good, 😊

Good job. It sounds like you got it sorted. Funny how they put in a bunch of parts for no reason at all…

 

[mr-ramsbottom]

Good job. It sounds like you got it sorted. Funny how they put in a bunch of parts for no reason at all…

Upon request I can post a detailed video on exactly how to do all this.

There is something else that people may overlook to, and it is for some strange reason when vibration is disabled on the controler settings a lot of other vibrations disappears on the wheel too,

But I wondered if that turns the true force of ? Or just turns the vibration level right down,

 

[hawkeyez]

Upon request I can post a detailed video on exactly how to do all this.

There is something else that people may overlook to, and it is for some strange reason when vibration is disabled on the controler settings a lot of other vibrations disappears on the wheel too,

But I wondered if that turns the true force of ? Or just turns the vibration level right down,

I have no need for a detailed video. The O-Rings fixed mine. Controller vibration is trueforce. If you turn that down, you lose trueforce. Speaking from experience, it’s not all what it’s made out to be on the G923. On the G Pro, yes it is.

I’ve moved on from the G923. Good wheel (little expensive for what it is, good deal on sale), but does feel like a toy compared to say the T300RS, TGT2 and the G Pro. Anybody on a budget, I’d say skip the G923 and just get a T300RS.

 

[mr-ramsbottom]

I have no need for a detailed video. The O-Rings fixed mine. Controller vibration is trueforce. If you turn that down, you lose trueforce. Speaking from experience, it’s not all what it’s made out to be on the G923. On the G Pro, yes it is.

I’ve moved on from the G923. Good wheel (little expensive for what it is, good deal on sale), but does feel like a toy compared to say the T300RS, TGT2 and the G Pro. Anybody on a budget, I’d say skip the G923 and just get a T300RS

Hi, I should say thankyou personally as I would never of got to bottom of this without your very helpful thread 😊.

A video is there on request for others if they want one.

I know you've moved on, I also have a t300rs and whilst the force feed back is stronger I find the steering inputs more accurate on the G923.

I also prefer the g923 pedals to thrusts own standard pedals and there load cell pedals, besides this I know some drivers who get just as fast of laps on gpro or a g29 or a fana,

I've yet to have any wheel or pedals that has improved my lap times either, and I've tried loads. I always get to the same level after time regardless of wheel.

I've even had time with direct drive wheels, and whilst the force feed back is more realistic that's really only the major difference,

 

[hawkeyez]

Hi, I should say thankyou personally as I would never of got to bottom of this without your very helpful thread 😊.

A video is there on request for others if they want one.

I know you've moved on, I also have a t300rs and whilst the force feed back is stronger I find the steering inputs more accurate on the G923.

I also prefer the g923 pedals to thrusts own standard pedals and there load cell pedals, besides this I know some drivers who get just as fast of laps on gpro or a g29 or a fana,

I've yet to have any wheel or pedals that has improved my lap times either, and I've tried loads. I always get to the same level after time regardless of wheel.

I've even had time with direct drive wheels, and whilst the force feed back is more realistic that's really only the major difference,

There’s getting faster laps times and then there’s how immersive it is. Direct Drive wheels brings that to the table over other wheels such as the G923. Nothing wrong with the G923 pedals besides the crappy potentiometers in them. The pedal feel is fine.

You seem to have had to take it one step further to fix your rattle so all the power to you. Thankfully all I needed was o rings and minimal tear down.

 

[mr-ramsbottom]

There’s getting faster laps times and then there’s how immersive it is. Direct Drive wheels brings that to the table over other wheels such as the G923. Nothing wrong with the G923 pedals besides the crappy potentiometers in them. The pedal feel is fine.

You seem to have had to take it one step further to fix your rattle so all the power to you. Thankfully all I needed was o rings and minimal tear down

Not really most of the .tare down is to get to stage you where at, after your stage it's literally a 3 minute Job at most.

But crappy pedals ?, I can't say they are, as for me they work well.

Maybe for you,.you just simply never jelled with them, or You've Gelled well with your load cell G pro load cells pedals and thought those other pedals are crap.

But you've simply Gelled better,. It doesn't make g923 pedal crap as a result, it just means your more suited to those particular pedals.

But a bad workman always blames his tools anyhow.

 

[hawkeyez]

Not really most of the .tare down is to get to stage you where at, after your stage it's literally a 3 minute Job at most.

But crappy pedals ?, I can't say they are, as for me they work well.

Maybe for you,.you just simply never jelled with them, or You've Gelled well with your load cell G pro load cells pedals and thought those other pedals are crap.

But you've simply Gelled better,. It doesn't make g923 pedal crap as a result, it just means your more suited to those particular pedals.

But a bad workman always blames his tools anyhow.

I use G923 pedals. After awhile the potentiometers crap out. Either keep spraying contact cleaner at them and blow them out with compressed air or replace them with the AXC mods which are good. The pedal feel is fine on the g923 though.

Post your video for people, not gonna hurt anything and it’s better than a description. 👍

 

[mr-ramsbottom]

I use G923 pedals. After awhile the potentiometers crap out. Either keep spraying contact cleaner at them and blow them out with compressed air or replace them with the AXC mods which are good. The pedal feel is fine on the g923 though.

Post your video for people, not gonna hurt anything and it’s better than a description. 👍

Hi thanks 😊 That's interesting, I do have a t150 wheel also where by only half the potentiometer is registering on input, what would you recommend ?.

When you say blow them out can you open up a potentiometer. They look sealed to me.

What's an axc mod. Ty

 

[hawkeyez]

Hi thanks 😊 That's interesting, I do have a t150 wheel also where by only half the potentiometer is registering on input, what would you recommend ?.

When you say blow them out can you open up a potentiometer. They look sealed to me.

What's an axc mod. Ty

Can’t say for that set, but mine I just use a high quality contact cleaner, use my air compressor, point it in beside the pedal at the potentiometer, you can see in there and see right where it is, blow it out, then I spray the contact cleaner in and work the pedal, sometimes I used compressed air a bit more in hopes to work the cleaner further into the potentiometer. Most pots have little holes in them, also the contact cleaner works its way in through the shaft. Usually keeps me good for half a year but it’s been only a few months lately, sometimes less. So I’ll be replacing them.

AXC mod is sold in the UK, it’s a good design and gets rid of the problem entirely. I’m just lazy and don’t feel like unbolting my pedals from my rig since I have some shakers below them too. But I really should at this point.

Potentiometer Upgrade Kit for Logitech G Series Pedals (v1.1) - G25/G27/G29/G920/G923

This kit replaces the standard Logitech pedal potentiometer with a high quality linear position sensor.

www.axc-sim.com

That’s what I bought, one for gas, one for brake. I didn’t get the truebrake mod but I know someone that has it and they like it. I’m fine with the feel of the G923 pedals stock spring.

 

[mr-ramsbottom]

Can’t say for that set, but mine I just use a high quality contact cleaner, use my air compressor, point it in beside the pedal at the potentiometer, you can see in there and see right where it is, blow it out, then I spray the contact cleaner in and work the pedal, sometimes I used compressed air a bit more in hopes to work the cleaner further into the potentiometer. Most pots have little holes in them, also the contact cleaner works its way in through the shaft. Usually keeps me good for half a year but it’s been only a few months lately, sometimes less. So I’ll be replacing them.

AXC mod is sold in the UK, it’s a good design and gets rid of the problem entirely. I’m just lazy and don’t feel like unbolting my pedals from my rig since I have some shakers below them too. But I really should at this point.

Potentiometer Upgrade Kit for Logitech G Series Pedals (v1.1) - G25/G27/G29/G920/G923

This kit replaces the standard Logitech pedal potentiometer with a high quality linear position sensor.

www.axc-sim.com

That’s what I bought, one for gas, one for brake. I didn’t get the truebrake mod but I know someone that has it and they like it. I’m fine with the feel of the G923 pedals stock spring.

It looks a good kit that, it's seem the inputs is recognised via a piece of metal sliding up and down that contact on the circuit board, I just wonder how reliable it is and durability and long lasting, I would imagine that after long term use the contact on the circuit board would or could ware down. But I just wonder if there was any stutters at all in acceleration over time for you ?.

Or whether your performance in lap times altered in comparison to a fully working potentiometer.

 

[hawkeyez]

It looks a good kit that, it's seem the inputs is recognised via a piece of metal sliding up and down that contact on the circuit board, I just wonder how reliable it is and durability and long lasting, I would imagine that after long term use the contact on the circuit board would or could ware down. But I just wonder if there was any stutters at all in acceleration over time for you ?.

Or whether your performance in lap times altered in comparison to a fully working potentiometer.

I haven’t installed it. Be used pedals with them installed. The throttle meter in gt7 is smooth and does not flicker at all. They’ve had theirs in for over a year and no issues. You can press to 3/4 throttle and hold it completely still. The pots usually bounce around some. The AXC mod is steady as can be. Besides it’s not like the Logitech pots last long themselves.

Good luck.