Mad FinnTuners Co. - Finished 081213 - The Final Countdown, 4, 3, 2, 1, OUT!

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I'm a late braking type, hence why I slam on the brakes pretty hard, which caused problems when the brake balance was set to higher values. Also, I intended to make this one a newbie friendly from the beginning, thus, the forgiving character had to be maintained. As you said, it's good for racing and drifting. Soft setup is meant to encourage people to try weight shifting via throttle control instead of braking.
 
Nissan Skyline GT-R V-SpecII Nür '94

360+ bhp, 45.3+ kgfm, 1500 kg
Painted in Black Pearl (M) from Nissan

This is not an indication of what an R32 can do - this is what a stock R32 could have been.

Gotta say, I did not like this tune. It's me, I know - but it needs more front bite, better turn in, and of course, more power. I know where you were going with this, but it just felt boring to drive. Brake early, wallowy turn in, slow body roll, attempt to point to apex when it isn't rotating, and gas it with no oversteer, no drama, not much fun.

Now, again, I say I know what you were going for, but if I were to own an R32, and spend the same money I could get this setup for, it would have to rotate better than this one did.

I know, I know, all the caveats of awd bring understeer, but if it isn't fun to drive, it isn't fun to drive.

I'll take a shot at trying to make this one more to my liking, without adding power (or at least not much - under 400hp is key I think), and post it here, starting with your base.

Keep in mind - I suck like a 12hp vacuum so far at tuning, so I'll likely make something everyone hates, including me.

Pros: Easy to drive, will get beginners into the habit of braking early, power early, looks sex with gold wheels (photo tour for sure).

Cons: Boring, not engaging, impossible to sling about.

Sorry for the harsh, but honest review - I like what I like, and totally TOTALLY appreciate the effort made into making this car. I've never driven an R32 of any sort, so I'm taking your tune for it that this is a better car than stock - it just wasn't my cup :)
 
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I'm a late braking type, hence why I slam on the brakes pretty hard, which caused problems when the brake balance was set to higher values. Also, I intended to make this one a newbie friendly from the beginning, thus, the forgiving character had to be maintained. As you said, it's good for racing and drifting. Soft setup is meant to encourage people to try weight shifting via throttle control instead of braking.

I think this car at Eiger, drifting would be a laugh a minute. 60 laps at Autumn Ring should tell you that I enjoyed the tune - I loved drifting around the outside of backmarkers while passing on burnt tires - would have saved the reply but... no FF as of yet makes it... ghey.
 
"No FF"..? :odd:

edit: Ah, speaking of replays. It's three in the morning here, so I'm not fully awake anymore. Also, missing letters make things bit difficult.. Oh, and don't try to circumvent the swear filter with words like "ghey".. Mods disapprove it.
 
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Thanks, Greycap. Does the review qualify me for a tune request?

It surely does. PM me with the details but be warned, fulfilling the request might take some time.

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And now, a couple of words right from the headquarters. This may not gather me any extra popularity but here goes anyway. I'm a person who usually doesn't ask for much but when I do ask for something I don't like having to do it twice. This is directly from the opening post I expect everyone to have read but it seems my expectations are too high at times.
If you want to quote the setup post, please keep it down to the essentials. Do not quote the entire post. Partly because it doesn't do too much good for the readability of the thread but mainly because the setup may be changed and we don't want people making a review based on the setup they found in the quote when browsing the thread as it may differ quite greatly from the improved version.
Clear? I thought so. Full quoting isn't necessary by any means - we know which car you mean by just the name. We remember how it handles. And if someone else wants to see the car with their own eyes they can go to the opening post and click the link. Or if they can't... well, bad for them in that case.

We value you people high enough to devote our own time to making these cars so you could have a better experience with them. I don't think it's too much asked for you to respect us enough to follow our wishes.

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thechosenwonton - About the R32 review. You say the car should rotate better. You know what? The R32 is one of the most stable (read: understeering when driven hard) cars out of Japan in its class, if not the most stable. It simply can't do what you want it to do unless you give it staggered tyres and at that point the tuning has already failed as such a thing should never be needed. It was built for all-out grip racing and that's exactly what it does. It's barely a second slower around Grand Valley Speedway than an FD RX-7 boosted to 375 bhp and lightened to below 1200 kg so it certainly can perform but it takes skill and understanding to unleash that performance.

By all means, put in more power and you'll find more power understeer acccompanied by even longer braking distances from higher speeds. Increase braking power and you'll get ABS kicking in and lengthening the braking distances a bit more still. Try to make it stiffer and you'll find more understeer. It'll never do what you want it to do because you're expecting it to be something completely different to what it is. It's a 17 years old AWD car that weighs a ton and a half. Just something to be taken into account when comparing it to lightweight RWD cars of the 21st century.

So yes, you're right - it's you. You've managed to entirely miss the point of a GT-R.
 
Guys, I'm little bit confuse. Are you taking the same car or different from Chevrolet Corvette c6.R GT1? Thanks.
 
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Bloody :censored:ing hell. Did you read the post #157 right above yours? If you didn't, now would be a great time to do it and edit the quotes. Nobody wants to see me getting angry, believe me. And no, we didn't - the opening post has a link in it that says "The origins of all the cars" and from there you'll learn that Leonidae's GT1+ is an Z06 and my GT2+ is a ZR1.
 
Bloody :censored:ing hell. Did you read the post #157 right above yours? If you didn't, now would be a great time to do it and edit the quotes. And no, we didn't - the opening post has a link in it that says "The origins of all the cars" and from there you'll learn that Leonidae's GT1+ is an Z06 and my GT2+ is a ZR1.

Wow, I used the Z06 setting for my corvette ZR1 and the result is good. :)
 
I would love to see what you could do with an Audi Lemans Quattro '03. 834hp but I cannot get a setup that saves me tires and is still planted. This tune would be for racing softs at tuned for the ring. The second lap is where the problem is. Tune would also be for expert ABS1, nothing else.
 
...You have got to be kidding me... biggest bunch of FAIL is happening right now. This is why you stay in school kids..

*Runs from Axe-wielding, Volvo drive-by.* :scared:
 
Car Of Tomorrow '10

After every single other tune on these forums getting me nowhere, this tune got me to first place on the first attempt. I have to say, the first few corners were a bit grassy making the change from other tunes that turned into corners much more efficiently but once i made the change in driving style I found that I was traveling much faster in and out of corners. Thank you for helping me get the gold on the last day before the seasonal expires it is an excellent tune, now lets see if it can get bob the gold in B-Spec.
 
I would love to see what you could do with an Audi Lemans Quattro '03. 834hp but I cannot get a setup that saves me tires and is still planted. This tune would be for racing softs at tuned for the ring. The second lap is where the problem is. Tune would also be for expert ABS1, nothing else.

facepalm.jpg


*Points to post 1* Read it. Carefully.


...You have got to be kidding me... biggest bunch of FAIL is happening right now. This is why you stay in school kids..

*Runs from Axe-wielding, Volvo drive-by.* :scared:

Too tired to do so. I've spent whole week plowing snow... but the next one might feel my verbal wrath. :irked:
 
To my two Finnish tuner masters: The 1970 Challenger RM tune was awesome. The car felt great in the corners and it delivered me a 1st at Deep Forest Raceway and a 2nd at Cote D' Azur in Historic Classic Race Car Series. Thanks again guys!
 
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thechosenwonton - About the R32 review. You say the car should rotate better. You know what? The R32 is one of the most stable (read: understeering when driven hard) cars out of Japan in its class, if not the most stable. It simply can't do what you want it to do unless you give it staggered tyres and at that point the tuning has already failed as such a thing should never be needed. It was built for all-out grip racing and that's exactly what it does. It's barely a second slower around Grand Valley Speedway than an FD RX-7 boosted to 375 bhp and lightened to below 1200 kg so it certainly can perform but it takes skill and understanding to unleash that performance.

By all means, put in more power and you'll find more power understeer acccompanied by even longer braking distances from higher speeds. Increase braking power and you'll get ABS kicking in and lengthening the braking distances a bit more still. Try to make it stiffer and you'll find more understeer. It'll never do what you want it to do because you're expecting it to be something completely different to what it is. It's a 17 years old AWD car that weighs a ton and a half. Just something to be taken into account when comparing it to lightweight RWD cars of the 21st century.

So yes, you're right - it's you. You've managed to entirely miss the point of a GT-R.

Just expecting a bit more turn in - but thanks for the cheery response. Next time, I'll know not to be so honest.

GT-R is one of my favorite cars in the game, all vintages, and while understeer is always present, I've been able to get around it by driving aggressively, i.e. brake early, flick the car to the apex, car rotates, you gas for exit.

Wasn't able to do that with this one. Again, sorry for the honest review. :rolleyes:
 
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Believe me, he tried his best with that car. I've tried my best as well with another R32, but the understeer is stronger with the GT-R than ever before. It is difficult to overcome it without extreme measures, and we're not willing to flaw it in order to overcome a natural trait. Not to mention that it was amongst his first GT5 tunes..
 
Again, sorry for the honest review. :rolleyes:
Well, sorry for being honest when telling why it handles like it does and why you can't make it do what you want. On the tune post it says:
This is not an indication of what an R32 can do - this is what a stock R32 could have been.
And indeed, an R32 can handle better than this. A lot better. When fully lightened and running on soft racing slicks... but that wasn't the point here. The point was to improve the car while retaining the R32's basic feel. That's also exactly what happened, it's unmistakeably an R32 but quite a bit faster than what it was before. Can you find a stock R32 GT-R that handles better than this and runs faster laps than this? If you can't the improvement was a success and I'm willing to bet you can't. R33's and R34's are a different story altogether with their far superior starting points.
 
Just going for constructive criticism here, that's all - I see you're not a fan, so that's the last bit of it you'll get from me. Thanks for taking the time to do this, it is still appreciated.

~V~
 
Will the setup for the Ford GT work with the Spec II Test Car that is available in the New Dealership?

They look like the same car to me just with a different name and colour.
 
I am not sure. I haven't tried it on it, but if you're willing to take a shot at it, be my guest.
 
MFT Dodge Challenger Hemi T-A #18 '70

Once again you get the bonus of a RM’d-Car virgin having a go at a MFT creation, I’ll have to start charging if this keeps up. :sly:

In stock form, this car appears to just be another nice classic, but after sending it in for the Race Modification I have to say, the revised suspension and fat tires make this sucker look mean, and the front end, to me, just becomes so much more definitive of that classic muscle car look.

First place I headed for testing was Nurburgring, no reason really, was just looking through the track selection, happened upon it and went with it. In Greycap’s mini-description, he claimed that it was still an old American muscle at heart, understeer at entry, oversteer out of corners, washy in the middle, but by the time I was hitting the T2 marker, I was actually smiling during the drive. I found it very responsive in my hands, an all-around great car, with a wonderful engine and little argument from the chassis, suspension, brakes, etc, although the tires weren’t too fun while cold, but once warm they felt fine.

So after a few laps there, I left and decided to head to the track the vehicle is pictured at in the tune post. Autumn Ring.

“Wait a minute” I thought as I made my way through the course, “this isn’t how it drove at Nurb”. Out at Autumn Ring, the car felt like it had made a change of character, not as predictive as before, it drove as though the front end was heavier and struggled to maintain the line I desired as it presented a understeer-like nature. I kept with it hoping that it’d come back in-line once the tires warmed up and I had altered my driving line to put less strain on the front end’s suspension. I wasn’t able to gain anything back after the tires had warmed, the only noticeable change was that my alternate line was making the car easier to drive through the course with more of a “straight-line” bias.

Confused (and hungry), I pitted and went back to the garage.

Looking for a third track to test, I noticed the difference between the layout of Nurb and that of Autumn Ring, The ‘Ring is, really, more like a straight-forward track with ‘curves’, where-as Autumn Ring had more angled corners, sharper and not as flowing as Nurb. I started to realize at that point what kind of character this car has.

It looks like the old SCCA racers of yester-year, and it is… what it is, an old muscle racer as Greycap had mentioned, something that would accept moderate curves with some throttle, but never liked a turn that was sharp or abrupt, and that the key to driving these older racers, was the origin of the “steer with the rear” driving approach – something that needed a bit of man-handling here and there. The same behavior the first true racers of the era had to contend with, this car has. Now understanding what I was working with, I decided to enter the Historic cup and see how I could do with a new approach.

With a low-mileage engine break-in, I was able to pull 2nd place at each race first time out, each loss to that box-body Chaparral racer that is naturally just too fast for the Challenger, but a great finish considering the cars behavior towards sharper corners and it was the first time I had personally attempted the cup. As I had thought, my different driving approach had coaxed the cars understeer bias, It requires some common sense along with the skill to perform this, but if your able to time the cars forward-facing direction matching with a usable line around the corner before you see it, and plant the throttle before exiting, you can get the car to almost “jump” and rotate out of a corner in more of a straight line, sometimes even faster than if you had followed the traditional line, It seemed to have more of an effect at Deep Forest’s uphill sections, but overall it was fun to drive the car like a madman.

The car definitely earned its Advanced ranking, as it could cleary be mean to someone who was unprepared for the driving ability needed to tame it, and that behavior can change dependent on the course, but offers a unique experience to those willing to step back in time and place themselves in the shoes and mindset of road-racing’s fore-fathers.

(Sidenote, driving this racer at the Indy Road Course gave me a feeling of nostalgia to some extent, definitely recommend doing so to those interested in the drive, rather than a race 👍)
 
It's my first review here (or at all), so I hope it is at least somewhat helpful (and that I get a gentle chiding, rather that a savage attack, if it is not). :)

Before I get to it, just for perspective, I did not really play GT4, tuning is not something I am handy with, and while I manage to keep things on track without driver aids (excepting ABS on 1, or the Peugeot 908HDI), I cannot describe myself as a GT5 driving prodigy (you will see it from the times, too). The only deviation from your settings that I had was the use of an automatic transmission and I used the controller, rather than a wheel and pedal set-up.

I will start in the order I tried your settings - with the Mazda RX7 first. The intention, from your description, was to provide a very safe beginner's car, which does not bite. I think in that resepect the settings are a resounding success. I tried the car (no tuning of any sorts) for the online bonus race a couple of weeks back, and while I managed to win it after a couple of tries, it certainly wasn't the friendliest of beginner's cars, with oversteer being pretty easy to provoke (seemed like the rear axle grip was completely insufficient for the 197bhp). You needed to be somewhat careful with the throttle and at least in corner exits apply it gradually (I think the race was at the Deep Forrest track).

Using your settings I tried the car out at Tsukuba first (Japanese 90' challenge) and in spite of almost 70bhp over stock it was tamed completely. Try as I might, getting the rear to step out - as long as I kept all four wheels on the track - was impossible. Given that beginners tend to be a bit more hamfisted with the controls (or maybe it was just the way I was when I started playing), I think this is a very good thing. I could provoke some very limited, and easy to control oversteer, if I applied full throttle while going over the kerbs, otherwise it was possibly the most straightforward and easy car to drive.

I tried it on the Grand Valley Speedway next (the level 18 Japanese championship) to see how well it would do there. I came second in all three races I did, the last one with less than a second to the car in front. Overall I managed a time of ~3 seconds above your posted one (for a perspective of my skills), tending to gain time in the first sector and to loose it in the second one (the third one I usually stayed on par with the leading Scooby).

As for comments, there was quite some wheelspin at launch but the car was rock steady and did not step out in any way. Braking into the first (U shaped) corner on subsequent rounds was also a doddle - had I released the steering wheel (figuratively - I use the normal controller) the car would have gotten onto the grass but there was no twitchiness when braking. Again very beginner friendly. The only place on the track, where I could see a beginner having some problems with the car is the right hand corner afterwards (the second one from the U) - namely if you clip the inside kerbs there the car tends to skip across the road and more often than not touch the barriers on the other side. It's not a general problem - you just take the corner a bit more on the outside and the car carries speed through it well (as long as you do not touch the kerb). In the third tunnel you can produce a wobble between the release of the brake and reapplying the throttle - something a more expert driver would probably avoid. It looses a bit of speed but it is completely controllable, so not a problem.

So far so great. I have two comments I would like to point out in terms of the car's suitability for a novice driver. The first is braking. It is rock stable under braking, as stated but brake too late and the fact that it's safely understeery is likely to have you plow off the road. The reason I mention it is that beginners are more likely to brake too late in my opinion. Not sure whether there is anything to be done about it - I suppose it is just a natural consequence of a car with limited tyre size and a foolproof understeering handling. If you think you could coax something out to allow a bit of the back stepping out for such situations without making the car twitchy otherwise, I think it would improve it (again, my very amateurish opinion).

The second comment is that the car isn't at all throttle sensitive in a corner - so releasing the throttle a bit will not improve the turn in of the front (like you often get with FF cars that understeer). In essence if you brake in time, it is a wonderfully stable and nice machine, you brake a bit too late and there is understeer throughout (cannot be reduced by letting go of the throttle, or corrected by stepping on in a bit, either). As already said, I find that beginners are more likely to miss a braking point, hence the comment. Otherwise it is very stable, easy to learn on RWD car.

I have to say I really appreciate the tune - will be a great car to give to the B-Spec drivers as well, when I get around to getting them up to a higher level. I have enjoyed the MX-5 and R32 tunes you did more - more on that a bit later (if you think the review was worthwhile). :)
 
Wow, what a way to start a GTP career! You have earned my warmest welcome to the GTP with that great and very accurate review. Now, onwards to dissecting your post..

I have two comments I would like to point out in terms of the car's suitability for a novice driver. The first is braking. It is rock stable under braking, as stated but brake too late and the fact that it's safely understeery is likely to have you plow off the road. The reason I mention it is that beginners are more likely to brake too late in my opinion. Not sure whether there is anything to be done about it - I suppose it is just a natural consequence of a car with limited tyre size and a foolproof understeering handling. If you think you could coax something out to allow a bit of the back stepping out for such situations without making the car twitchy otherwise, I think it would improve it (again, my very amateurish opinion).

The second comment is that the car isn't at all throttle sensitive in a corner - so releasing the throttle a bit will not improve the turn in of the front (like you often get with FF cars that understeer). In essence if you brake in time, it is a wonderfully stable and nice machine, you brake a bit too late and there is understeer throughout (cannot be reduced by letting go of the throttle, or corrected by stepping on in a bit, either). As already said, I find that beginners are more likely to miss a braking point, hence the comment. Otherwise it is very stable, easy to learn on RWD car.

Oversteer is easier to provoke if you tap the brakes too, but while it would increase oversteer, it most certainly would not increase your speed on track. The fun factor would leap through the clouds though. This car is also meant to teach how to manage shifting the cars weight around in order to enhance the handling.

While the braking is indeed soft and forgiving, it also allows manipulating your line during the braking, without losing traction at either end of the car as long as you start braking somewhat early. Brakes are essential to this cars setup, as i mentioned before, they can be used to force the weight shifting towards the front or side, depending of the situation. The other Mazda has different approach, its meant to divebomb the corners with as late braking as possible to provide one with an opportunity to out-brake your opponent.

Now, if you have any wishes for a personal tune, go ahead and ask. That review has really earned one for you.

EDIT: Send it as a PM, and I'll start working on it.
 
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Another thing I forgot to mention - the tyre wear is extremely uniform - i.e. the tires on both axles tend to wear out very evenly. I have not tried it in the 300km endurance version of the GWS but I think they might have worn out faster than when I did the race with a fully tuned (but not turbo'ed) MX-5 last weekend. Without any concrete evidence (so take with bucketloads of salt) not quite sure they would last the 20 laps I did there.

I suppose this post might teach you not to encourage me too much - the MX-5 tune next. ;) As I already had the car and only needed to add a turbo and your settings, it was an easy one to try out. I already used the car on the track for the 300km endurance race, so was somewhat familiar with it, too. I chose the non-turbo version for the race ebcause I did not want it to be a handful (as I wasn't really on top of setting it up).

I think it is a real pleasure to drive overall, providing sufficient additional thrills over the RX-7 to be really fun (if you do not, or cannot trail brake), while still being docile enough to drive it in an endurance race, without tiring you out too much, forcing mistakes.

It lights up the rears at the start, of course - so much power in a light car and no TCS doesn't provide any surprises there. In the Japanese Championship (lvl 18) race it still outaccelerates all other comers by the first corner and it must be quite a feat not to win it easily with the car.

I found it very stable under braking in the two high speed brake zones (before the two U corners) and as you said, you can easily leave the braking late - it is both stable, as well as throttle adjustable - a prod will bring the tail around nicely. As opposed to the RX-7, touching the kerbs at the inside of the second (right corner) after the first large U, will not slam it into the wall opposite, and the fact that you can slightly miss the braking point and still make it around corners are both benefits for a novice driver. However the rear end will step out if you are too ham-fisted at accelerating out of corners.Easy to catch and good fun - especially useful on the last S section after the third tunnel, where you can get the back around quicker and start gathering speed for the straight a bit sooner than inthe RX-7.

Another benefit is that it does not display the wallowiness between braking and getting back on the throttle in the third tunnel, and you can get through it in a slightly oversteery posture at quite good speed, too.

The only thing I noticed was that one needs to be quite careful in the last sweeper - if you miss the turn in point a bit you need to brake - which is not ideal for your times. Namely just letting go off the gas will not tuck the nose in at all, so you will still get on the grass at the start of the straight (either touching the wall or not). This is something that works much better in the R32 (next one to review). Again, not a major problem if you know what to do and you do not term the car 'beginner' after all - just something I noticed (not sure there is a fix to it, either).

Overall I found the car a great joy to drive and set-up your way I can easily see myself using the turbo'd version of it for the 300km of GWS or the 200 miles of Laguna Seca. Again, as with the RX-7, the tyre wear is pretty even but my impression is that the car, driven in 'dive-bomber' fashion, as you called it, is a bit heavy on the tyres.

Finally, I got to a time of 2.04.XXX, some 3 seconds behind the one you posted, with a controller, automatic transmission and, as always, my somewhat lacking skills at the helm :) The times were not quite as consistent as with the RX-7 but driving the car was really great fun and I can certainly see myself using it often in the future. Oh, and while I gained on the others in each section, compared to your spec R32, I completely flew in the first section (much better high speed acceleration and higher top speed before the braking point) and lost time in the second one, starting in the second U turn (could carry more speed in the R32) just before the time marker.

Hope this is useful :)
 
Last in this series (will probably take me till the weekend to try any of the others), the R32. I've had a liking for Skylines for a looong time, and while the R34 was always my favourite of the non-current crop (and I actually came pretty close to getting one at some point), I was really interested in giving this one a try, especially after your finely set-up RX-7 and MX-5, as well as after the discussion you've had on it in the thread already.

First of all, I found it so easy to drive the car, I would even put it into the beginner category - it has no vice at all. It is a car I can imagine driving 1.000 km races in in one stint, with consistent times, as it's just so forgiveable.

I tested it only on the Grand Valley Speedway and did two Japanese Championship (lvl 18) races on it, with an automatic transmission and the regular controller. My best time was a 2.05.xxx, so I generally get within 3 seconds of your posted times with all the cars I tried so far.

Traction at the start was not a problem at all, and while it does not accelerate as strongly as the MX-5 (not a surprise, being half a ton heavier), I found it possible to get into first place at the exit of the first U-turn corner. I did not manage to build the same kind of lead with it as with the MX-5 but at no point did I need to worry that others will catch or overtake me.

It is a heavy car and has corresponding braking points but it is very stable under braking, and nicely throttle adjustable, too. If you are close to corner exit at a not stupidly too high speed, full throttle will generally do a great job of tucking the nose in, without producing much oversteer (no need for opposite lock at all), catapulting you out of the corner. On the other hand, if your corner speed is a bit too high in the middle of the turn, a slight letting go of the throttle will turn the nose in nicely as well, getting you back into line without using the brakes. A prod of the throttle in the final S after the third tunnel will also do a good job of bringing the back around so as to accelerate onto the straight sooner and I found it less sensitive to missing the turn-in point for the start-finish straight than the MX-5.

I managed to enter that at about the same speed but my final speed before braking for the first large U-turn was about 25 kmh lower than with the MX-5, explaining why my first sector time could not match the Mazda. From getting out of the second U-turn to getting back on the main straight again, I made up time - relatively speaking - so I finished less than a second off per lap, overall. The third tunnel was also quite good, requiring the least of effort of all three (MX-5, RX-7, this one). As long as you did not forget to brake, you could get through it using different lines and little attention at pretty comparable speeds.

Final point, it is very easy on the tires - most of all three (from the non-scientific, 5 round stints). The rears get used up less than the fronts and the fronts still seem to have more life left than any of the Mazda's after 5 laps. I can easily imagine the tyres lasting for 20 laps, maybe even more of the 300km race here.

It is not a monster Skyline but I find it gives people, who will never experience the real thing a great insight into what a nicely sorted one is like, and why it was such an eye opener, when it arrived - I suppose it was quite a change from what else was on the market at the time, with a similar performance envelope (need to try some alternatives, when I get the time). As you said, not the fastest outright but given the power to weight ratio, quite an amazingly effective, and extremely easy to drive car.
 
Well, you seem to be consistent with your excellent and accurate reviews. Keep up the good work! I'll see what I can do about the car you want.
 
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