Motor City Tunes GT6

[Motor City Hami]

Where'd you get the Lime Rock Green paint?

It is one of the stock '14 Stingray colors.

 

[TVRFanboy83]

It is one of the stock '14 Stingray colors.

Ah ok, I've just been using my 15th Anniversary C7. Thanks. Very cool green.

 

[Voodoovaj]

I linked a page on my site to this thread and gave you credit Hami. Your diff guide is on the money, so why reinvent the wheel? Plus, we great lakes folks should stick together

 

[TurnLeft]

Thank you Hami for your tuning guide , I'm ranking at 3256th position with my XKR-S and 8695th position with my GT86, I couldn't have done it without your help. Also big thanks for the cue to put my Tunings in the Seasonal Forum, will be doing it next time.

I'm presently working on a Oulim-Spira 530PP for Int.B Super Car Fest., and while tuning it I came across something peculiar with using the ballast. The only thing that was changed between the following two setups are weight and ballast.
Tune a) 530PP - Wt.1177kg - Wt.Dist 47/53 - Ballast 67kg at -50 , Wt. reduction stage 1 + window
Tune b) 530PP - Wt.1158kg - Wt.Dist 50/50 - Ballast 144kg at -50, Wt. reduction stage 3 + window
It seems to me that we are better off using the weight reduction fully and then using the ballast to bring back the PP's to where we want it because we make a gain in the Power to Weight ratio and in the way we want to balance our car. I've tried it with my Caterham Seven Fireblade and my Toyota Sprinter Trueno that I'm tuning, and I get the same results, though a little less spectacular. Have you had similar results?

I'm also working on compiling data on the effect of different ride heights, if you ever get a chance, fly over to the moon to check it out and tell me if it's pointless or not doing the tests. ( I didn't want to put a link to my garage on your page because I think it might be unethical to do so) Have a great day.

 

[Motor City Hami]

Nice find on the weight reduction glitch. I had not noticed that. I will try it out on a few cars this week. I'll also stop over and take a look at the ride height effort.

 

[Lionheart2113]

Hey Hami, I was looking to link some tunes to my walkthrough starting with International B events....are you working on anything around the 550-600pp on SS tires...America/Japan/Europe? Thought this would be my first stop! =)

 

[TurnLeft]

Nice find on the weight reduction glitch. I had not noticed that. I will try it out on a few cars this week. I'll also stop over and take a look at the ride height effort.

Just tried my Mustang Mach I and it didn't work, there must be a split point in their algorithm where the weight and balance of the car makes it work. Looks like for now I'll have to try it out on every car I tune to see what works best. Have you noticed that when you add power parts and calculate their HP to PP ratio that after adding the first piece, if you redo the calculations, sometimes what was the 2nd best part to add on is now 3rd or 4th.

 

[Mercury1]

Thanks for the tunes Hemi great as always. I am not good enough to hang around trying to get near the top; I just want a good reliable tune that will get the job done in 1 or 2 laps and btween

 

[Bowtie-muscle]

Loving the C7 Hami:tup:, I also built a 600pp ZR1 with similar setup that works well for me. Made a few adjustments for my driving style and DS3, but WOW!, loving the tune. Thank you and God bless you and your family during this time, little late on my part but still, my condolences and my heart goes out to you and yours.

 

[MrGrado]

GT40 at laguna seca 1:33.410 no ABS, no aids. Great car. Deserving winner of FITT American Classics Shootout

 

[Nomad67]

GT40 at laguna seca 1:33.410 no ABS, no aids. Great car. Deserving winner of FITT American Classics Shootout

Nice run.... I know we all say "No Aids" when we turn off the "driving Aids" however, when we are using the LSD settings, basically we're fine tuning a driving aid....and acts very similar if not the same as TC, ABS, Etc... IMO anyway...

 

[Nomad67]

Toyota 86 GT '12
450PP, 264hp, 1150kg
Tuned with G27 with Nixim Brake Pedal Mod and ABS 1

Tune built for the Toyota 86 GT Super Lap Seasonal Event @ Trail Mountain - January 29, 2014

I am in love with this tune. If you know anything about real world tuning, this setup will drive your mind crazy. I had to ignore my own real world tenancies and just listen to what the 86 GT wanted in game. This car has massive understeer in stock form. I pulled out all of the tricks to get this to rotate correctly. I simply followed my newly published GT6 tuning guide and it lead me to this wonderfully handling machine. Only three of my friends currently faster than me (@GTP_CargoRatt who is a master at time trials, @praiano63 a tuning phenom who is usually half-a-second faster than me and @Johnnypenso who puts done amazing times without SRF). I am happy with placing a top 500 ranking and being close behind these three friends. I can run this tune on top of my ghost all day long.

One really odd thing about this tune. Look at the picture above. I did not think that this tune was super low or super soft so I was really surprised when I went to photo mode. After this, I did go back, raise ride height and increased spring rates to around the middle. The car was worse. So I returned the springs to slightly higher than I had them and raised ride height around ten numbers. Went a bit faster with a more predictable car <-- win. Tune below. Feel free to comment on whether it worked for you or not.

Pit Service
No Oil Change
Front Aero A
Stock rims
Paint: Sterling Silver Metallic

Installed Parts
Sport Hard Tires
Fully Customizable Suspension
Racing Brakes
Fully Customizable Transmission
Fully Customizable LSD
Triple-Plate Clutch Kit
Carbon Drive Shaft
Engine Tuning Stage 2
Sports Computer
Sports Exhaust
Sports Catalytic Converter
Weight Reduction Stage 1
Carbon Hood
Window Weight Reduction

Tune
Ride Height 110/120 (100/110 in photo above)
Springs 5.15/6.25 (5.10/6.00 in photo above)
Dampers Compression 2/5
Dampers Extension 5/3
Anti-Roll Bars 2/5
Camber 0.0/0.0
Toe -0.11/-0.05
Brake balance 5/5 (barely used the brakes with this tune)

Transmission
Final Gear to 5.500
Top Speed to 112
1st gear 3.300
2nd gear 2.300
3rd gear 1.775
4th gear 1.450
5th gear 1.225
6th gear 1.075
Final gear 4.100

LSD 10/14/5
Power Limiter 98.4%
Ballast 22
Ballast Position 15%
Weight Distribution 52:48

I love this car....for the money...I think its one of the best in here.....however there is one thing I noticed about using aero parts on this car that I really didn't notice on any other car...but after my experiences I will now be watching it a little more closely.

I did some more testing, I had "bought" my son one of these cars and we thought it would be fun to to do some laps at Daytona... by chance I discovered by adding areo "upgrades" (no wing) you're actually slowing down the car significantly. For example. Stock power, with racing exhaust no oil change on Daytona...roughly 59.5's...then, added the aero options as a well as adding power; computer sport, engine tune 1st stage, clutch upgrades etc...power now at around 280hp, you would think the lap times would go down significantly...was having a hard time breaking a minute....remove the aero upgrades (which provides no adjustable down force) and I am now mod 54's....and producing some 20 mph difference in the back stretch.

Anyway...just some food for thought...

 

[Mercury1]

Don't know what happened to my last post. Long winded way of saying how reliable your tunes are to get the job done first time - thank you muchly.

Very sorry to hear about your Nanna; you have my condolences.

 

[Nomad67]

Mustang Boss 302 '13
500PP, 434hp, 1647kg
Paint: Gotta Have It Green Metallic Tri Coat/Black Stripes

Tuned with G27 with Nixim Brake Pedal Mod

Pit Service
Oil Change

Installed Parts
Sport Hard to Sport Soft Tires
Fully Customizable Suspension
Racing Brakes
Fully Customizable Transmission
Fully Customizable LSD
Triple-Plate Clutch Kit
Carbon Drive Shaft

Tune
RH 100/95
Springs 9.0/7.0
Dampers Compression 4/2
Dampers Extension 5/4
Anti-Roll Bars 4/3
Camber 2.2/1.5
Toe -0.05/0.05
Brake balance 4/4
LSD 10/14/7
Ballast 0
Ballast Position 0
Weight Distribution 54/46
Power Level 93.5%

Transmission
Final Gear to 5.500
Top Speed to 124
1st gear 3.150
2nd gear 2.100
3rd gear 1.600
4th gear 1.300
5th gear 1.095
6th gear 0.950
Final gear 4.000

Amazing tune! The car handles like its on rails

 

[Tazz69]

Nomad what "aero options" did you add.. Flat floors will kill top speed of a car. But if you added just front aero upgrade and it did that then thats a cool find....

 

[BuzzDryver]

About me:

I was introduced to racing at a very young age. Many of my earliest memories are from the race track with my father.

I too, was introduced to racing at a young age! Every Wed and Friday we were at Checker Flag Raceway in Windsor to watch my uncle, Leroy Couvillon race. He had an old yellow coupe no. 73. Take a look at this link from 1965-66, scroll down to the 23rd row.

http://checkerflagraceway.piczo.com/checker65,66?cr=1&linkvar=000044

 

[Motor City Hami]

I too, was introduced to racing at a young age! Every Wed and Friday we were at Checker Flag Raceway in Windsor to watch my uncle, Leroy Couvillon race. He had an old yellow coupe no. 73. Take a look at this link from 1965-66, scroll down to the 23rd row.

http://checkerflagraceway.piczo.com/checker65,66?cr=1&linkvar=000044

My dad starting his racing career in 1965 in those very same cars. He raced at Butler Motor Speedway in Michigan.

Thanks for sharing.

 

[Motor City Hami]

Mazda Roadster RS (NC) '07
450PP, 235hp, 950kg
Tuned with G27 with Nixim Brake Pedal Mod and ABS 1

Tune built for the FITT Miata Tuning Challenge "Street Touring Class" - March 2, 2014

This tune was purpose built for the 2.2 mile Matterhorn Rotenboden mountain circuit. I kept adding stability for the downhill sections, then found that the car would understeer on corner exit. The tune below is intended to balance right in between these two conditions; good corner exit and good downhill stability. This will either be the easiest car to test drive in this competition or it will be good everywhere and great nowhere. Here is a link to the FITT Miata Tuner Challenge thread. https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/fitt-miata-tuning-challenge-by-mch.303511/

Pit Service
No Oil Change
Improve Body Rigidity
Front Aero A
Rims: OZ Racing Superforgiata painted GT6 Metallic 022
Paint: Spirited Green Metallic

Installed Parts
Sport Medium Tires
Fully Customizable Suspension
Racing Brakes
Fully Customizable Transmission
Fully Customizable LSD
Triple-Plate Clutch Kit
Carbon Drive Shaft
Engine Tuning Stage 3
Standard Computer
Racing Exhaust
Standard Exhaust Manifold
Standard Catalytic Converter
Standard Intake
No or Normal Turbo
No or Standard Super Charger
Weight Reduction Stage 3
Carbon Hood
Window Weight Reduction

Tune
Ride Height 116/118
Springs 4.75/5.00
Dampers Compression 3/4
Dampers Extension 5/4
Anti-Roll Bars 3/4
Camber 0.0/0.0
Toe -0.12/+0.02
Brake balance 5/4

Transmission
Final Gear to 4.100
Top Speed to 112
1st gear 3.775
2nd gear 2.710
3rd gear 2.145
4th gear 1.775
5th gear 1.515
6th gear 1.325
Final gear 3.150

LSD 12/14/26
Power Limiter 98.3%
Ballast 30
Ballast Position 0%
Weight Distribution 52:48

 

[Motor City Hami]

Mazda Roadster Touring Car
500PP, 276hp, 816kg
Tuned with G27 with Nixim Brake Pedal Mod and ABS 1

Tune built for the FITT Miata Tuning Challenge "Roadster Touring Car Class" - March 2, 2014

This tune was purpose built for the 3.66 mile Silverstone Grand Prix circuit. This is one of those cars that starts out already quick in stock form, improves a bit with your first few changes, then seems to plateau. There is a point during tuning this car where ten different types of settings can all produce the exact same quickness of lap time. I could not get this car to break the rear tires loose. I do find it one of my new favorite cars in the game, but with properly programmed camber settings, I think it can be even faster. Here is a link to the FITT Miata Tuner Challenge thread. https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/fitt-miata-tuning-challenge-by-mch.303511/

Pit Service
No Oil Change
Improve Body Rigidity
Rims: OZ Racing Superforgiata painted Spirited Green Metallic
Paint: Steel Silver Metallic

Installed Parts
Racing Hard Tires
Fully Customizable Suspension
Racing Brakes
Fully Customizable Transmission
Fully Customizable LSD
Standard Clutch Kit
Carbon Drive Shaft
Engine Tuning Stage 3
Standard Computer
Racing Exhaust
Standard Exhaust Manifold
Standard Catalytic Converter
Standard Intake
High RPM Turbo
No or Standard Super Charger
Weight Reduction Standard
Standard Hood
Standard Windows

Tune
Ride Height 85/90
Springs 9.75/10.00
Dampers Compression 2/6
Dampers Extension 6/3
Anti-Roll Bars 3/4
Camber 0.0/0.3
Toe -0.15/-0.12
Brake balance 6/6

Transmission
Final Gear to 5.500
Top Speed to 112
1st gear 3.235
2nd gear 2.200
3rd gear 1.695
4th gear 1.380
5th gear 1.170
Final gear 3.800

LSD 9/14/5
Power Limiter 100%
Downforce 200/200
Ballast 21
Ballast Position 0%
Weight Distribution 54:46

 

[greenhill]

Mazda Roadster RS (NC) '07
450PP, 235hp, 950kg
Tuned with G27 with Nixim Brake Pedal Mod and ABS 1

Tune built for the FITT Miata Tuning Challenge "Street Touring Class" - March 2, 2014

This tune was purpose built for the 2.2 mile Matterhorn Rotenboden mountain circuit. I kept adding stability for the downhill sections, then found that the car would understeer on corner exit. The tune below is intended to balance right in between these two conditions; good corner exit and good downhill stability. This will either be the easiest car to test drive in this competition or it will be good everywhere and great nowhere. Here is a link to the FITT Miata Tuner Challenge thread. https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/fitt-miata-tuning-challenge-by-mch.303511/

Pit Service
No Oil Change
Front Aero A
Rims: OZ Racing Superforgiata painted GT6 Metallic 022
Paint: Spirited Green Metallic

Installed Parts
Sport Medium Tires
Fully Customizable Suspension
Racing Brakes
Fully Customizable Transmission
Fully Customizable LSD
Triple-Plate Clutch Kit
Carbon Drive Shaft
Engine Tuning Stage 3
Standard Computer
Racing Exhaust
Standard Exhaust Manifold
Standard Catalytic Converter
Standard Intake
No or Normal Turbo
No or Standard Super Charger
Weight Reduction Stage 3
Carbon Hood
Window Weight Reduction

Tune
Ride Height 116/118
Springs 4.75/5.00
Dampers Compression 3/4
Dampers Extension 5/4
Anti-Roll Bars 3/4
Camber 0.0/0.0
Toe -0.12/+0.02
Brake balance 5/4

Transmission
Final Gear to 4.100
Top Speed to 112
1st gear 3.775
2nd gear 2.710
3rd gear 2.145
4th gear 1.775
5th gear 1.515
6th gear 1.325
Final gear 3.150

LSD 12/14/26
Power Limiter 98.3%
Ballast 30
Ballast Position 0%
Weight Distribution 52:48

Ahhhh, my favorite car.
Thanks Hami!!

 

[Xiamoto]

Post Deleted

 

[Xiamoto]

Post Deleted

 

[bread82]

I'm not certain, but think the effect of weight distribution on PP is dependent on drivetrain. I'm not at my PS3 at the moment, but I think a couple of months back I noticed something with an MR car where biasing the weight rearwards was considered an advantage and raised PP. I think I tried this on an FF and it was the opposite way around, I'm not sure if it as simple as "more weight on the driven wheels = higher PP" or whether there are secondary effects.

This opposes the "more weight is a disadvantage" effect, so I think what @TurnLeft has hit on is that GT6 considers the setup in a) (47:53) more favourable, thus to get back down to the same PP as setup b) you need to add more weight.

I'll dig out a Focus ST and look at FF behaviour if I can get on my PS3 later. In fact something like a MkI Golf might be better as it's lighter, so the max 200 kg ballast should allow more variation in wt. distribution.

Will report back later.

Cheers,

Bread

 

[Austin1]

MRne Problem Solving

PD did not give us many tools to diagnose tuning problems. When a tire turns red in GT6, it means one of two things. Either that tire is overloaded beyond its available grip level or it is sliding or skimming across the pavement. The first thing that I do is to view the car in chase view to determine which condition may be causing the red tire. For example, if my outside front tire is turning red during mid-speed sweeping corners and the weight seems to be leaning more rearward, the car needs more weight pushed onto the front tires. Another example involves a red outside front tire in a slower, 180 degree corner where the car’s weight seems to be leaning forward, over the front axles. In this case, the front tire is being pushed beyond its grip limit and less weight needs to transfer to the nose of the car.

Below is what I have come up with to help me think through what a car is doing at given points in a corner. I have written a few scenarios under each photo and a few hypotheses. This is early work and should be considered still under testing. For anyone looking for how to get more involved in this discussion, feel free to try some of the suggestions from below and report back the results that you achieved. I expect this section of the tuning garage to evolve over time as I have more in-game seat time and as others offer their test results to the conversation.

Here is a graphic indicating a car at rest or in a coasting position. The springs are at their ride height position and the dampers are not moving. This is chassis neutral.

Shock absorbers do nothing in this vehicle state. The four circles in these diagrams are meant to represent the tire contact patch. You will notice below that I have indicated weight transfer by making the tire contact patch grow as well as the color darkens in the following drawings. A large, black colored circle is meant to indicate maximum load from weight transfer. A small, light gray colored circle is meant to indicate minimum load.

I find it useful to think about how weight transfers around the car at different stages of a corner, as shown above. Below are a few handling scenarios and some suggested tuning adjustments to improve the car in that situation. Remember that tuning is full of trade offs so an adjustment to help corner entry may be offset with a negative result for corner exit.

GT6 Handling Tips:

Condition 1: Glowing red front tires under braking

Options: Reduce rear shock extension (lower number) and/or reduce front shock compression (lower number). This should speed up the transfer of weight to the front wheels and provide more front grip under braking. This can be effective to shorten braking distances, up to the point of maximum front tire grip. A second option is to reduce front brake balance or increase rear brake balance. A third option is to reduce LSD decel.

Condition 2: Loose condition under braking

Options: Increase rear shock extension (higher number) or increase front shock compression (higher number). This should slow down the transfer of weight to the front wheels and hold rear wheel grip longer into the braking zone. This can be effective to shorten braking distances, up to the point of maximum rear tire grip. A second option is to increase front brake balance or reduce rear brake balance. A third option is to increase LSD decel.

Late corner entry can be difficult to diagnose while driving in GT6. You may need to watch a replay instead of trying to see what the tire indicators are doing while on a hot lap. There is one condition that I see most often in GT6 at this point in the turn; a red, outside front tire.

GT6 Handling Tips:

Condition 1: Glowing red outside front tire in a medium to low speed corner

Options: Hypothesis is that the front tire is overloaded and past its maximum available grip. To fix this condition, test increasing front compression and increasing rear extension. A second option is to add ballast and move weight to the rear of the car.

Condition 2: Glowing red outside front tire in a medium to high speed corner

Options: Hypothesis is that the front tire does not have enough weight on it and it is just sliding across the pavement. To fix this condition, test decreasing front compression and decreasing rear extension. A second option is to add ballast and move weight to the front of the car.

Mid-corner issues can be difficult to diagnose. Many times the mid-corner problem is actually starting at late corner entry. If trying to diagnose while driving on a hot lap, it can be difficult to see when the problem tire begins to turn yellow, then red. Watching a replay can help to make this determination. I tend to see a few conditions appear in GT6.

GT6 Handling Tips:

Condition 1: Understeer or glowing red outside front tire while off throttle through mid-corner

Options: Hypothesis is that the front tire is overloaded and past its maximum available grip. To fix this condition, test increasing front compression and increasing rear extension. A second option is to add ballast and move weight to the rear of the car.

Condition 2: Understeer or glowing red outside front tire while coming back to throttle at or before the mid-corner apex

Options: Hypothesis is that the front tire does not have enough weight on it and it is just sliding across the pavement. To fix this condition, test decreasing front compression and decreasing rear extension. A second option is to add ballast and move weight to the front of the car.

Condition 3: Oversteer or glowing red outside rear tire while off throttle through mid-corner

Options: Hypothesis is that the outside rear tire does not have enough weight on it. To fix this condition, test decreasing front extension and decreasing rear compression. A second option is to add ballast and move weight to the rear of the car.

Condition 4: Oversteer or glowing red outside rear tire while on throttle through mid-corner or both rear tires turning red through mid-corner

Options: The first thing that needs to be checked is LSD Accel. If the outside rear tire turns red when getting back to throttle, lower the LSD Accel number, then adjust the dampers. Hypothesis is that the outside rear tire is beyond its grip limit and weight must be transferred forward. To fix this condition, test increasing front extension and increasing rear compression. A second option is to add ballast and move weight to the front of the car.

Very similar to mid-corner… still working through thinking on this corner sector. Just running out of time to type tonight.

Hi, I like to see someone trying to figure out gt6 physics for the general public so thank you, but there is one problem that I experience the most, that no matter what I do I can't fix. That is what you call trail braking with MR cars, I notice this most in my 787B, and fully upgraded Gt40, in mostly high speed corners, if I even so much a tap the brake, the car spins, I was wondering if you had any suggestions?

 

[Woodski_427]

I'm not certain, but think the effect of weight distribution on PP is dependent on drivetrain. I'm not at my PS3 at the moment, but I think a couple of months back I noticed something with an MR car where biasing the weight rearwards was considered an advantage and raised PP. I think I tried this on an FF and it was the opposite way around, I'm not sure if it as simple as "more weight on the driven wheels = higher PP" or whether there are secondary effects.

This opposes the "more weight is a disadvantage" effect, so I think what @TurnLeft has hit on is that GT6 considers the setup in a) (47:53) more favourable, thus to get back down to the same PP as setup b) you need to add more weight.

I'll dig out a Focus ST and look at FF behaviour if I can get on my PS3 later. In fact something like a MkI Golf might be better as it's lighter, so the max 200 kg ballast should allow more variation in wt. distribution.

Will report back later.

Cheers,

Bread

The pp definitely goes up by one point on (some?) cars with a weight moved towards the drive wheels.

It depends on the weight of the car vs the ballast, presumably there is a 'magic' ratio. With ff I usually start with the ballast forward to where the pp goes up, being around 60/40 distribution I think.

Edit: I have seen this on FR too, eg Isuzu 117, when ballast is moved to the rear.

 

[Rocklobster]

Mr Hami,

I've a long-time interest in Corvettes and their place in historic racing - think it's really cool that the SCCA 1963 #614 ZO6 Corvette is in the GT6 lineup. It's a historic car in that it ran successfully in both SCCA and C Modified in 1963 and was clocked at Bonneville at 200 mph, a notable achievement in 1964, especially running a small block!

I'm a novice tuner, very much appreciate your guide - it's helped me a bunch. BUT that Vette has been impossible for me. I can get it to run some fairly fast laps, but it's super slippery and burns the tires on hard turns. Could you put your talents to work on a tune for it? Any help much appreciated!

 

[Motor City Hami]

Could you put your talents to work on a tune for it? Any help much appreciated!

I have spent some time with this car already in the FITT Muscle Car Tuner Challenge. It is a tough car. I would be happy to revisit it. It has such a cool sound.

I am in the middle of testing for the FITT Miata Tuner Challenge. Testing is due in two weeks, but if I get bored with driving 30 Miata, I will take a coffee break and bust out this car.

 

[modesto74]

Worthless

 

[DaBomm4]

Worthless

What is worthless? Can you elaborate some please?

 

[Motor City Hami]

What is worthless? Can you elaborate some please?

He joined in February and has three total posts. Two are about top speed tunes and challenging that others could not be faster than him at top speed. So, from his perspective, this thread is worthless because it does not help him to do faster top speed runs. Everyone is entitled to their opinion.