Motor City Tunes GT6

Pete05
As far as I'm concerned, PD have done themselves no favors at all over the last 2 years. My 15 year loyalty to the brand has just about been eroded & a lot is riding on how GT7 is released.
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I know what you mean and I feel the same way, they didn't deliver what they said for GT6, there are still about 10 to 12 VGT Cars that are probably not going to get released and no DLC for new cars or tracks. 👎

I know there's the Track Editor :rolleyes: Whoopee!!! It's a little to little and a little to late. :irked: They really dropped the ball on this one, let's hope GT7 will be better and they learned from there mistakes, because now there are other racing games out and Assetto Corsa is coming to PS4, so they better watch out or they are going to lose alot of people to the other games.

Just my Two Cents.jpg :lol: :D
 
Motor City Hami
RUF CTR "Black Bird" '87

23824900563_0d6d8414c7_z.jpg


PP: 550
HP: 539 HP
TORQUE: 461
WEIGHT:1,110 kg
WEIGHT DIST: 44:56
TIRE(S): Sport Soft Tires

GT Auto:
Improved Body Rigidity Installed
Rims: OZ Racing Ultraleggera painted Panther-Black Metallic
Body paint: Panther-Black Metallic
Brake caliper paint: Sassy Grass Green

SUSPENSION: Full Custom // Brakes: Racing
RIDE HEIGHT - 106/102
SPRINGS - 5.00/7.25
COMP - 3/2
EXT - 7/6
ARB - 4/2
CAMBER - 0.0/0.0
TOE - (-)0.08/(+)0.16
BRAKES - 7/3

TRANS: Full Custom (install all power upgrades first!)
FINAL TO - 5500
TOP SPEED TO - 137 mph
1ST - 2.300
2ND - 1.600
3RD - 1.240
4TH - 1.010
5TH - 0.850
6TH - 0.740
FINAL - 4.150

LSD: Full Custom
INITIAL - 14
ACCEL - 7
DECEL - 35

CLUTCH TYPE: Triple-Plate Clutch Kit
CARBON SHAFT: standard

POWER PARTS:
ENGINE TUNING - Stage 2
COMPUTER - Standard
EXHAUST - Racing Exhaust
MANIFOLD - Standard
CATALYTIC CONVERTER - Standard
INTAKE TUNING - Standard
SUPERCHARGER/TURBO - Normal
POWER LIMITER - 100.0%

WEIGHT REDUCTION - Stage 3
CARBON HOOD - Installed
WINDOW WEIGHT - Standard

DOWNFORCE - 0/0
BALLAST - 46 kg @ (-)48%

DRIVER NOTES:
I got nothin! Just mash the throttle and hope for the best.
Click to expand...


Well my best (At The Moment) at Trail Mountain (R) is 1:34.900 and all I can say is :eek: HOLY S***!!! This Thing ROCKS!!! :bowdown: Great Tune as always MCH 👍 :bowdown: It's a Helluva lot of fun to drive. :D

It slides a little in the rear but it's really controllable, I took the curve after exiting the first long tunnel and I was going a bit too fast and just drifted it right into the second tunnel, I was like YESSSS!!! 👍 and I had a big smile on my face after I did it. Smiling Smiley 2.jpg

I'm not testing in the RUF Challenge, but I like to try out some of the tunes to see how they match up against mine.

My time with My tune is 1:34.000, which is not too shabby, but yours handle's better than mine.


Cheers Smiley.gif
 
Last edited:
Brewguy44
I know what you mean and I feel the same way, they didn't deliver what they said for GT6, there are still about 10 to 12 VGT Cars that are probably not going to get released and no DLC for new cars or tracks. 👎

I know there's the Track Editor :rolleyes: Whoopee!!! It's a little to little and a little to late. :irked: They really dropped the ball on this one, let's hope GT7 will be better and they learned from there mistakes, because now there are other racing games out and Assetto Corsa is coming to PS4, so they better watch out or they are going to lose alot of people to the other games.

Just my View attachment 507865 :lol: :D
Click to expand...
Hopefully some serious competition wakes them up at PD.
As far as the VGT cars are concerned, to me they're a giant hands down the pants exercise. The only one I've got is the Peugeot because I won it for doing a seasonal when I was doing a game update at my Brother's place. Given how long it takes me to earn money in the game offline, I'm not interested in spending a cent on fantasy cars.
PD would've ticked a big box with me if they'd spent the time on real cars instead of VGT.
 
Motor City Hami
RUF CTR "Black Bird" '87

23824900563_0d6d8414c7_z.jpg


PP: 550
HP: 539 HP
TORQUE: 461
WEIGHT:1,110 kg
WEIGHT DIST: 44:56
TIRE(S): Sport Soft Tires

GT Auto:
Improved Body Rigidity Installed
Rims: OZ Racing Ultraleggera painted Panther-Black Metallic
Body paint: Panther-Black Metallic
Brake caliper paint: Sassy Grass Green

SUSPENSION: Full Custom // Brakes: Racing
RIDE HEIGHT - 106/102
SPRINGS - 5.00/7.25
COMP - 3/2
EXT - 7/6
ARB - 4/2
CAMBER - 0.0/0.0
TOE - (-)0.08/(+)0.16
BRAKES - 7/3

TRANS: Full Custom (install all power upgrades first!)
FINAL TO - 5500
TOP SPEED TO - 137 mph
1ST - 2.300
2ND - 1.600
3RD - 1.240
4TH - 1.010
5TH - 0.850
6TH - 0.740
FINAL - 4.150

LSD: Full Custom
INITIAL - 14
ACCEL - 7
DECEL - 35

CLUTCH TYPE: Triple-Plate Clutch Kit
CARBON SHAFT: standard

POWER PARTS:
ENGINE TUNING - Stage 2
COMPUTER - Standard
EXHAUST - Racing Exhaust
MANIFOLD - Standard
CATALYTIC CONVERTER - Standard
INTAKE TUNING - Standard
SUPERCHARGER/TURBO - Normal
POWER LIMITER - 100.0%

WEIGHT REDUCTION - Stage 3
CARBON HOOD - Installed
WINDOW WEIGHT - Standard

DOWNFORCE - 0/0
BALLAST - 46 kg @ (-)48%

DRIVER NOTES:
I got nothin! Just mash the throttle and hope for the best.
Click to expand...

Hi Mitch,

I've been following the FITT RUf thread on and off to see if anyone could come up with a good set up for the YB - saw @shaunm80 had given this a top marks so thought I'd give it a try.

This really is a very good tune... you have to manage entry speed carefully as there's still a bit of understeer, but has a great mid corner balance on and off the throttle and endless exit traction... it's a transformation vs the standard car 👍

High 29's at TM reverse on SS, with a few tenths left after c.30 mins.

I also tried it on less grippy tyres at the 'Ring. On comfort softs (running c.7'30 lap times), it could do with a bit more entry rotation (I think there would be room for more without making it snappy), but it's fantastic fun... once it's in to the corner the natural balance makes it so easy to slide the rear on the exits... including some fairly big drifts in 5th gear :D

Great job :cheers:

Edit... lap time at TM reverse was 1'28.902.
 
Last edited:
Stotty
Hi Mitch,

I've been following the FITT RUf thread on and off to see if anyone could come up with a good set up for the YB - saw @shaunm80 had given this a top marks so thought I'd give it a try.

This really is a very good tune... you have to manage entry speed carefully as there's still a bit of understeer, but has a great mid corner balance on and off the throttle and endless exit traction... it's a transformation vs the standard car 👍

High 29's at TM reverse on SS, with a few tenths left after c.30 mins.

I also tried it on less grippy tyres at the 'Ring. On comfort softs (running c.7'30 lap times), it could do with a bit more entry rotation (I think there would be room for more without making it snappy), but it's fantastic fun... once it's in to the corner the natural balance makes it so easy to slide the rear on the exits... including some fairly big drifts in 5th gear :D

Great job :cheers:

Edit... lap time at TM reverse was 1'28.902.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the review @Stotty . I tuned this car about a dozen times between GT5 and GT6 but never liked it so didn't post them. With this one Was at least fun to drive.

Hearing your feedback, I might try lowering the rear damper extension a click or two for that bit more rotation on entry.
 
Motor City Hami
Thank you for the review @Stotty . I tuned this car about a dozen times between GT5 and GT6 but never liked it so didn't post them. With this one Was at least fun to drive.

Hearing your feedback, I might try lowering the rear damper extension a click or two for that bit more rotation on entry.
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👍

For TM reverse, on SS, I thought it was spot on - if I was chasing lap times for a TT I would try more rotation for the slow/mid speed corners, but then it would be much trickier on the fast direction changes at the end of the lap. And you're tuning for people of mixed abilities and different controllers, so personally, I think you hit the nail right on the head... the car is super stable, and has incredible exit grip, even on less sticky tyres.

Interesting how people use different settings to get to the outcome they want... you would use dampers, I would start by reducing LSD decel... but then I'm rubbish at tuning dampers so I tend to focus on LSD and ride height.

This will definitely be a car that gets some miles put on it when I have more time :cheers:
 
Stotty
👍

For TM reverse, on SS, I thought it was spot on - if I was chasing lap times for a TT I would try more rotation for the slow/mid speed corners, but then it would be much trickier on the fast direction changes at the end of the lap. And you're tuning for people of mixed abilities and different controllers, so personally, I think you hit the nail right on the head... the car is super stable, and has incredible exit grip, even on less sticky tyres.

Interesting how people use different settings to get to the outcome they want... you would use dampers, I would start by reducing LSD decel... but then I'm rubbish at tuning dampers so I tend to focus on LSD and ride height.

This will definitely be a car that gets some miles put on it when I have more time :cheers:
Click to expand...

LSD decel is a great suggestion too.
 
Lionheart2113
:bowdown: You know I've driven a lot of your cars, loads are worth mentioning, but this "Black Bird" is one for the record books. If I could have scored it higher than a 10.0 for DC in the FITT challenge, I would have!:cheers:
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Thank you. And I almost didn't enter it. I said before that I had build about a dozen Yellow Bird tunes in GT5 and GT6 but never liked them enough to post them. I didn't fully like the "Black Bird" because I just couldn't solve all of its problems, so I almost didn't enter. That's the perfectionist in me.

I am going through the same thing with Forza and Project Cars right now. I haven't been posting much yet because I am not sure what I don't know yet in those games. Last night I tested a few of my Forza6 tunes against the best tuner in the game and was like, wait, my tune might be good.
 
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In order to join the group, follow the link above, or go to the game front page and click on the "Sign Up" button to create a team. After completing registration, or if you already have a team, click the "Create or Join Group" button and follow the path to join an existing private group. Then, when prompted, enter the following information...

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Motor City Hami
Pontiac Firebird Trans Am '78
Trans Am Racing Edition
500 PP, 368 hp, 1350 kg
Weight Distribution 55:45

16880116459_d4225e3a31_z.jpg


Tuned with G27 with Nixim Brake Pedal Mod

Tuning & Maintenance
Front Aero Kit Type A
Rims: 2 inch up American Racing Vintage Torq Thrust
Body Paint: New Formula Red

Installed Parts
Sport Hard Tires
Fully Customizable Suspension
Racing Brakes
Fully Customizable Transmission
Fully Customizable LSD
Triple-Plate Clutch Kit
Carbon Drive Shaft
Engine Tuning Stage 1
Sports Computer
Racing Exhaust
Sports Catalytic Converter
Weight Reduction Stage 3
Carbon Hood
Window Weight Reduction

Tune Game Version 1.17
Ride Height 95/95
Springs 7.00/5.50
Dampers Compression 3/3
Dampers Extension 6/4
Anti-Roll Bars 5/4
Camber 0.5/2.0
Toe -0.05/0.05
Brake balance 6/5
LSD 10/8/12
Power Level 98.8%
Ballast 37
Ballast Position +50

Transmission
Final Gear 3.230 (do not adjust)
Max Speed 137
1st gear 3.715
2nd gear 2.521
3rd gear 1.833
4th gear 1.407
5th gear 1.140
Final gear 3.230(do not adjust)
Click to expand...

I put this tune on the Special Black Edition and it runs real good. Thanks for all you do and all you share.
 
Hami, when driving a real car, is it a good idea to free wheel on longish motorway downhill gradients by putting the car into neutral? When I do this and put the car back into gear does that harm the clutch and gearbox? Does it really save much fuel?
 
MCFerocious
Hami, when driving a real car, is it a good idea to free wheel on longish motorway downhill gradients by putting the car into neutral? When I do this and put the car back into gear does that harm the clutch and gearbox? Does it really save much fuel?
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So a non-race track question, correct. Because on the race track, my foot is mashing the throttle to the floor everywhere I can.

As for on the street, I don't have any science to back this up, so I guess that makes this just my opinion. In theory, coasting down hills on the motorway will save gas. How much? Probably only a little. If you are an engineer or engineer minded, the joyful thoughts swimming around inside your brain, knowing that you are making your machine a tiny bit more efficient is probably worth more than the small amount of money back in your pocket.

Will putting the car back into gear harm the clutch and/or gearbox? Assuming highway speeds where you need to put the car back into say 4th or 5th gear, there will be very little torque put back into the gearbox. I also think that it will put very little stress on the clutch. The hardest thing on a clutch and gearbox is the standing start in 1st gear. 90% of your clutch wear will be during the 1st gear start from zero. The second hardest thing on a clutch/gearbox is a downshift that is done into too low of a gear for the speed that the car is traveling. For example, if you are driving highway speeds and drop from 5th gear to 2nd gear, and the tachometer is forced to rev up to red line, you can damage the clutch or a shift fork or a gear syncro. I did this the last time that I raced the Miata. I went from 115 mph in 5th gear and dropped to 2nd too early in the braking zone. I both bent a shift fork and chipped some teeth off a syncro.

So, I think that coasting down hill will save some small amount of fuel, make your brain a tad bit happier and carry very little risk of "damage." Wear, yes. You will be wearing the clutch a very little bit with each shift, but it's tiny at that speed to the proper gear. If you want to minimize the wear even further, you may want to rev match when putting the car back into gear, but also giving a quick blip of the throttle before you release the clutch.
 
To add to what Hami posted above, it's not recommended if your car is fitted with an automatic transmission. The hydraulic fluid pressure drops when you're not in a drive or reverse gear and if you're cruising down a hill in neutral with the transmission still rotating internally, you will be doing some damage.
Every owner's manual I've read advises against it.
 
Pete05
To add to what Hami posted above, it's not recommended if your car is fitted with an automatic transmission. The hydraulic fluid pressure drops when you're not in a drive or reverse gear and if you're cruising down a hill in neutral with the transmission still rotating internally, you will be doing some damage.
Every owner's manual I've read advises against it.
Click to expand...

No matter what the car, going in neutral coasting downhill is dangerous :) and you can save fuel by staying in gear coasting instead. When you are in neutral, your engine actually have to inject fuel to stay in idle, while in gear as the revs dropping slowly ( while you coast/no throttle ), the fuel injector actually do not inject any fuel ( zero pulse ) even as engine still running, this applies to manual and auto cars. As the rev drops near idle, the fuel injector will start adding fuel to prevent engine stall. This happens around 1000rpm ( near idle rpm ), and you can feel it as the engine rev a bit. The saving is the difference when you are off throttle in gear ( dropping rpm slowly downhill ) against staying/holding on certain rpm.

In neutral, the driveline is not connected to the engine, in certain situation, this can be very dangerous ( emergency maneuver, slippery road, rough surface when downhill could cause an accident ) and you won't save fuel.

Damage to / bent shift fork is more likely from rough treatment/ excessive abuse ( banging on the shifter/gorilla arms :lol: or forced it into a gear ), I won't let anyone drive my car that way :P

As a trucker, you would know this already :P
 
Ridox2JZGTE
No matter what the car, going in neutral coasting downhill is dangerous :) and you can save fuel by staying in gear coasting instead. When you are in neutral, your engine actually have to inject fuel to stay in idle, while in gear as the revs dropping slowly ( while you coast/no throttle ), the fuel injector actually do not inject any fuel ( zero pulse ) even as engine still running, this applies to manual and auto cars. As the rev drops near idle, the fuel injector will start adding fuel to prevent engine stall. This happens around 1000rpm ( near idle rpm ), and you can feel it as the engine rev a bit. The saving is the difference when you are off throttle in gear ( dropping rpm slowly downhill ) against staying/holding on certain rpm.

In neutral, the driveline is not connected to the engine, in certain situation, this can be very dangerous ( emergency maneuver, slippery road, rough surface when downhill could cause an accident ) and you won't save fuel.

Damage to / bent shift fork is more likely from rough treatment/ excessive abuse ( banging on the shifter/gorilla arms :lol: or forced it into a gear ), I won't let anyone drive my car that way :P

As a trucker, you would know this already :P
Click to expand...
It's not a practice I employ at anytime personally but I wanted to add my 2 cents about the auto transmission due to my brother doing this & needing a reconditioned transmission despite my warnings not to.
The look on his face when I asked how much fuel had he saved & wether he reckoned it would cover the cost of the transmission :mad:
If I knew a trucker that was doing this, I'd want his licence cut up into itty bitty tiny pieces right in front of him & an idiot hat stitched into his head permanently.
 

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