Need a SuperGT tune that doesn't oversteer when exiting corners

  • Thread starter pentaxfun
  • 35 comments
  • 2,700 views
129
United States
Los Angeles
QuasarFun1142
Hey guys, I'm pretty new here, so I apologize if I do anything that is a faux paux, and I will not be offended at all if this thread needs to be deleted if this is the wrong forum for it, or I formatted it wrong or something or other.

Okay, now that that's out of the way, basically:

Right now, there is a 600pp Time Trial event in the seasonal events that is restricted to Racing Hard tires, 600pp, and it must be a "race car".

The fastest car for the event by a wide margin is the 2J, but I don't have one, don't know how to get one, and just for whatever reason would prefer to try this event with a GT car instead, for a variety of reasons.

The problem is, I have tried a variety of different tunes on the two GT cars I have (an '05 yellowhat supra and an '00 raybrig nsx), and I have yet to find a setup that doesn't have this problem:

When I am accelerating as I exit a turn, the car oversteers into a spin after I lift the joystick upright.

As in, it handles normally during the turn-in, normally during the middle part of the turn, but then, when I'm finished with the turn, and let the joystick pop back upright as I'm exiting the turn while accelerating, the car continues to sharply turn oversteer-style (which it didn't have during the beginning/middle of the turn btw), as if I am still holding the joystick all the way to the side, turning the car, even though I'm not.

And I know this isn't just some unavoidable symptom of RWD cars, even powerful ones for that matter, because, for example, I was using Praiano's tune of the Audi R8 Race Car '01, for the Spa TT, which is a 700pp event, and he managed to get that car to NOT do that at all (even though in its stock form, it did this very thing that I am complaining about in the paragraph above), so, I know there must be a way of making cars not do that, but, I don't know how, and all of the tunes I have tried so far, specifically on the Yellowhat Supra '05, have this oversteer-on-exit-of-turn characteristic to them, which I find to be the most annoying of handling chaaracteristics. I don't even mind a large amount of oversteer when it presents itself during the first half of the turn, in a "drift" car type of way, for example, in the previous TT for the 560pp Deep Forest event that everyone was using an Audi r8 4.2 for, I used Yinato's tune, which had a much looser more oversteer/drifty type of feel to it than, say, the stock tune of the car which was a much more stable, understeery, riding on rails-mixed-with-mashed-potatoes type of feel by comparison, yet, I actually preferred Yinato's tune, because i was able to easily harness that oversteer, and drift seamlessly around various corners in a very fast but controlled manner, and it didn't get all twitchy and out of control or anything.

This type of "exit oversteer" or whatever the official term for it, on the other hand, annoys the crap out of me, cuz I never know exactly how severely it is going to do it, it varies immensely from incident to incident, and it forces me to always be scared, getting ready to slam the joystick the opposite direction of it to counter-steer it to try to hold the car from going into a full spin-out, so I just feel totally "on-edge" for the whole lap every time, and I just don't enjoy it.

Basically, I don't care which of the GT cars it is, since all of them are allowed for the 600pp Nurburgring event, so, if any of you know of any GT car tune of any of the GT cars that DOESN'T do the thing that I described above, please tell me the car/tune, I would appreciate it immensely!!!

As of right now, the only car I've found so far that is allowed to enter the event (they restricted the event to "race cars only") that doesn't exhibit that unwanted handling characteristic despite being RWD and being legal for the event is the Spoon S2000, which handles beautifully in stock form and doesn't do that thing I described, at all. Unfortunately that car is only like 500pp, so, it's just way too underpowered and slow to be at all competitive against the 600pp competition, thus my wanting to go for a GT car that will be more competitive time-wise.

So yea, if anyone knows of a good GT tune that doesn't do that bad stuff, please tell me!
 
Last edited:
LSD Accel 5

I'm confused. I thought the stronger the setting, the less oversteer and more understeer?

Unless, is it one of those things where "stronger" means a lower number and "weaker" means a higher number?

Cuz in the little question-mark info box it makes it difficult to know for sure since it doesn't says "higher number" or "lower number", rather, it says "stronger setting" or "weaker setting", so, if for example I was supposed to have known that the lower the actual number the "stronger" that means the setting is, then, that would have made me interpret it backwards basically.

Can someone please clarify about this? thanks
 
I'm confused. I thought the stronger the setting, the less oversteer and more understeer?

Unless, is it one of those things where "stronger" means a lower number and "weaker" means a higher number?

Cuz in the little question-mark info box it makes it difficult to know for sure since it doesn't says "higher number" or "lower number", rather, it says "stronger setting" or "weaker setting", so, if for example I was supposed to have known that the lower the actual number the "stronger" that means the setting is, then, that would have made me interpret it backwards basically.

Can someone please clarify about this? thanks
Higher = more lock
 
LSD Accel 5

I am squarely on the other side of this coin from the Dr. Sorry Doc. LSD at 5 is going to make things worse for him.

Pentaxfun - Is one of the rear tires turning red first? Which one, inside or outside. If you can't tell with Racing tires on, put sports hards on and find out which one turns red first.
- If inside rear tire, raise LSD Accel
- If outside rear tire, lower LSD Accel
Work at this until you get both tires to turn red as close to the same time as you can. Then put your racing tires back on.

Next, play with LSD Initial Torque. Start at 10 and try going up by increments of 5. If you get above 35 on a GT500 car, it's probably not the LSD that is going to fix the condition.

I have a tune for the Raybrig and Takata NSX in my garage. I use the Takata more often, so take a look at that tune. It's pretty planted for seasonal events and just a touch on the loose side online.
 
As of right now, the only car I've found so far that is allowed to enter the event (they restricted the event to "race cars only") that doesn't exhibit that unwanted handling characteristic despite being RWD and being legal for the event is the Spoon S2000, which handles beautifully in stock form and doesn't do that thing I described, at all. Unfortunately that car is only like 500pp, so, it's just way too underpowered and slow to be at all competitive against the 600pp competition, thus my wanting to go for a GT car that will be more competitive time-wise.
What competition? It's a time trial that's only between you and the clock.

A stock Spoon S2000 is more than capable of beating the gold time of 7'48.000 even though it's 100pp down on the limit. I got 7'16.xxx on my 2nd lap using the Spoon.

If you want to get to the top of the online leaderboard, you need a 2J which you don't have, so why not use something else and have fun while beating the gold time?

Now for the possibly nasty bit. If you cannot beat the time using a stock SuperGT car then perhaps you need to practise more. A tune won't really help if you're struggling that much.
 
Is it just me or does it sound like he's simply spinning the tires exiting corners?

LSD doesn't actually add grip, just redistributes it, so no amount will stop wheel spin from occurring.
There's just no possible way someone can drive "in a style" that makes all SuperGT cars uncontrollable exiting corners, unless that driver is just disregarding wheel spin completely.
Most SuperGT tunes (most tunes) under steer exiting corners, it's much easier to control.
 

LSD 5/5/5 will rotate very well on entry and mid corner. It will give him even more oversteer on exit and he's trying to reduce that. LSD accel is so crutial for corner exit. The right/left balance needs to produce equal grip.

Is it just me or does it sound like he's simply spinning the tires exiting corners?

LSD doesn't actually add grip, just redistributes it, so no amount will stop wheel spin from occurring.
There's just no possible way someone can drive "in a style" that makes all SuperGT cars uncontrollable exiting corners, unless that driver is just disregarding wheel spin completely.
Most SuperGT tunes (most tunes) under steer exiting corners, it's much easier to control.

See above. True that the LSD cannot add grip, but it can maximize it by keeping both wheels doing the same amount of the lifting. I recommended to the OP to optimize right/left traction, then optimize LSD initial. If he's still getting "BOTH" red tires spinning at the same time, the LSD is not going to fully solve his issue. He'll have to try some transmission tricks then onto other suspension areas.
 
Probably best if you post your whole tune OP. While the Accel LSD can sometimes help correct over/under steer, it's also true that the base tune of the car can be so "oversteery" in nature that no amount of fiddling with the LSD will help. Also post your settings for the event as in TC, ABS, Steering sensitivity...etc.

A more detailed description of the events would help too. Is the outside or inside tire going red first or can you see it on the replay which one is spinning first? Does it happen only on certain corners? Are you turning at the same time or does it happen even while going straight? Enquiring minds want to know....
 
LSD doesn't actually add grip, just redistributes it, so no amount will stop wheel spin from occurring.

Not necessarily true.

I agree, the LSD accel just 'distributes' power, but by distributing it properly, you can prevent wheel spin that's occuring at a single tire, without forcing both to spin. Maybe not entirely rid of it, but if you're burning up the outside rear on every exit, redistribution power to the inside wheel, will help overall grip and stability.

I disagree that 5/5/5 is the loosest setting, I believe 5/60/x or 60/60/x will. This is because if the tire burns the inside wheel up, it doesn't seem to make the car spin. The outside tire maintains grip, and the car continues it's path. But if the outside wheel is spinning, the car gets difficult to drive.
But Hami's Accel setting description mirrors mine exactly. Inside(5) Outside(60).


As for the OP; The simple answer, without seeing your settings, is to do (one or two)the following:

Raise rear ride height by 10.
Add rear toe (positive)
Stiffen the rear springs
Add rear camber.

The ride height should cover most of what you're looking at.
For GT500 cars that are stable, grab any 08 GTR of your choice that IS NOT the blue/silver one. Woodone Clarion I believe. Avoid that one.
The Xanavi seems to be slightly tighter, the Calsonic seems to be slightly looser, with the Yellowhat the Nuetral of the 3. (No proof, just personal experience)

Take one of those, raise rear ride height, and put your LSD to 9/11/5 and you should be fine.
 
What competition? It's a time trial that's only between you and the clock.

A stock Spoon S2000 is more than capable of beating the gold time of 7'48.000 even though it's 100pp down on the limit. I got 7'16.xxx on my 2nd lap using the Spoon.

If you want to get to the top of the online leaderboard, you need a 2J which you don't have, so why not use something else and have fun while beating the gold time?

Now for the possibly nasty bit. If you cannot beat the time using a stock SuperGT car then perhaps you need to practise more. A tune won't really help if you're struggling that much.

Lol. Obviously I wasn't referring to the Gold Award time of 7:48, that was ridiculously easy and can do that in any car allowed into the event even with just 500pp or less. I was referring to the top-256 leaderboards.

I know my post probably makes it come across like I am just terrible at driving, but, although I'm not great or anything, I'm not horrible. For example, in the previous TT, the one at Deep Forest Raceway (TT33), which was a 560pp event where everyone was using the Audi R8 4.2, the top times at the end of the event were 1:16.1, and 256th place was 1:17.9. I ended up with a top time of 1:18.4, so, half a second off the leaderboard, and came pretty close to making it since my first sector split on my 1:18.4 run was more than half a second slower than my best first sector split, so I know I theoretically had it in me. Even if not, finishing about 500th place by event end (which had about 200,000 entrants isn't terrible, so, it's not my driving that is the problem here). Plus, I actually was completely unfamiliar with the Deep Forest track, literally didn't know a single corner of the track until I first attempted it several days after the event had begun, and basically only had the track fully memorizes by the time there was only a week to go, so, I finished with that result from learning it from scratch. If I had already known that track intimately from the start, I almost certainly would've been well into the top-256.

The only reason I wrote the paragraph above, was not to brag (personally I would only have considered a top-256 finish a success), rather, I'm just trying to give you an idea of my skill level, that although I'm not some great racer or anything, I'm far from being some guy who doesn't understand how to drive/accelerate out of corners etc, as I would not have been able to get anywhere near that type of time if I was a complete driving novice obviously.

And to further prove my point, like I said before: in the current 700pp spa event, a lot of people are using the R8 Race Car '01, which is rwd and has much more horsepower than the GT cars I was discussing, and, althouhg the first time I drove the R8 Race Car '01, it had the same problem I discussed about that exit-oversteer while lifting the joystick from sideways to upright while accelerating out of low to moderate speed turns, once I used Priano's tune for the R8 Race Car, it COMPLETELY VANISHED, and doesn't do that at all anymore. So, I know it is possible to get rid of that handling characteristic by tuning the car, and still using identical driving style. So, it isn't simply something where I just need to drive differently, rather, it really is a handling characteristic, and that basically proves it.
 
Not necessarily true.

I agree, the LSD accel just 'distributes' power, but by distributing it properly, you can prevent wheel spin that's occuring at a single tire, without forcing both to spin. Maybe not entirely rid of it, but if you're burning up the outside rear on every exit, redistribution power to the inside wheel, will help overall grip and stability.

I disagree that 5/5/5 is the loosest setting, I believe 5/60/x or 60/60/x will. This is because if the tire burns the inside wheel up, it doesn't seem to make the car spin. The outside tire maintains grip, and the car continues it's path. But if the outside wheel is spinning, the car gets difficult to drive.
But Hami's Accel setting description mirrors mine exactly. Inside(5) Outside(60).


As for the OP; The simple answer, without seeing your settings, is to do (one or two)the following:

Raise rear ride height by 10.
Add rear toe (positive)
Stiffen the rear springs
Add rear camber.

The ride height should cover most of what you're looking at.
For GT500 cars that are stable, grab any 08 GTR of your choice that IS NOT the blue/silver one. Woodone Clarion I believe. Avoid that one.
The Xanavi seems to be slightly tighter, the Calsonic seems to be slightly looser, with the Yellowhat the Nuetral of the 3. (No proof, just personal experience)

Take one of those, raise rear ride height, and put your LSD to 9/11/5 and you should be fine.

Thanks, I will give this a try!
 
My fav JGTC are the Clarion GT-R, Raybrig NSX and YMS Yellowhat Supra. At 600PP even on racing softs you can spin your tires. You need throttle control on your exit. I doubt any changes you make will help until you have good throttle control. Also Racing Hards have even less grip.
 
pentaxfun
As in, it handles normally during the turn-in, normally during the middle part of the turn, but then, when I'm finished with the turn, and let the joystick pop back upright as I'm exiting the turn while accelerating, !

I would be a bit concerned at this point. I am neither a tuning or driving expert but if you are just letting go of the stick that would be the first thing to correct. The DS3 is nice and clunky to drive with but being as smooth as possible will help. I believe there are only two buttons on it that are not pressure sensitive so training yourself not to mash them or in thus case just let the stick "pop" back will pay big dividends. Of course, disregard if you were simply exaggerating. :embarrassed:

I am also in agreement with Hami as far as where and how to start. It sounds like you might be trying to tweak someone else's setup, which is fine, but putting everything back to default and starting from base would help you to understand what all these numbers are actually doing to the car. Check some of the stickies at the top of the forum here. A lot of smart guys, including the guys already posting in this thread, have put in a lot if time to research and explain how each change can affect the way a car drives.

Best of luck figuring it out and keep coming back with questions!
 
Sorry for double post, try reducing front downforce, the less you have the more the car will push out in the corner, this understeer will help keep the rear planted but there is a sweetspot. Likewise after better throttle control you can slowly add more downforce. Remember, there is such thing as too much or not enough downforce.
 
Lol, I don't literally let the stick slip off my finger and "pop" back up. I actually carefully raise it back up right with my finger, just like everyone else does, I was simply phrasing it that way to try to get people to understand the portion of the turn where the characteristic I was trying to describe was happening. I assume there is probably some official term for what I'm describing, but since I don't know what it's called "terminal exit" or some weird term, I dunno what the actual name for it is, but, I was trying to find a way to explain what I'm referring to by describing what part of the turn it happens during, and how it exhibits itself in terms of it "continuing the turn after I now longer physically am turning the stick to the side anymore". That ever-sharpening front nose curl-in type of effect is what I'm referring to on the accel exit out of a corner.

Post the tune

I have tried a whole bunch of different tunes, and ALL of them had this corner exit characteristic that I am trying to get rid of.

I went to the "every tune on this site is in this thread" thread in the stickied threads at the top of the forum and clicked on the picture in the OP that takes you to the "Gran Turismo 5 Tuning Database" page, and then for the Yellowhat Supra, I tried the RKM Motorsports tune for the yellowhat supra, and then after that I tried the Photo Finish Racing tune for the yellowhat supra, and then after that I tried Praiano's tune for the yellowhat supra. All 3 of those tunes had the same exact exit characteristic that I was trying to get rid of. And then I also tried just randomly sliding the sliders all sorts of different ways about 50 different times just to see if I could randomly accidentally get it to stop doing that thing by using dramatic weird settings, lol, but obviously none of that worked at all either :guilty: lol

edit: by the way, although it should go without saying, I just wanted to make sure everyone understands I was in no way trying to bash any of those 3 tunes that I tried. I have actually used tunes from those people's tuning garages on some other cars, and their tunes have been WONDERFUL. Particularly Praiano's for example, who's R8 Race Car '01 tune managed to get my 700pp R8 Race Car '01 to no longer exhibit that exit oversteer characteristic AT ALLL (even on a full accel exit out of a low speed corner!), even though in stock form it initially had that exit oversteer characteristic. So, I am very thankful to these turners and respect them immensely, I am just having trouble specifically with these GT cars with this corner exit handling characteristic that I can't seem to get rid of basically.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
RKM and Praino are well known tuners, i've never had any issues with there tunes. I use them to compare vs my tunes, mayb your pushing up too quickly but I would def try reducing front downforce, i'm on a controller aswell and was just online at 600PP running RC and streetcars and won. I had no issues. This is of course my setup and on the ring I did notice a few uphill elevation changes I had to throttle more carefully.
 
If you want, I can post my Raybrig tune. I'm not sure how much use it will be as its tune for Racing Softs but it may give you an insight as ti how to fox the problem with your own Raybrig.
 
I lost my long story that had a lot of detailed info.
Long story short, I've tested every Yellowhat setup and a handfull of the others.
For your specific issue...

Avoid These Tunes:
bucha22
Baby_Dave
Team Shmo
AdrenaTune
Photo Finish Racing

These will probably suit you best: (In order I feel you'll like)
Past4man
Blitz149
WRE(Xanavi)

For Nurb specifically, I'd add 10 to both ride heights (5/10 for Past4man)
And use an LSD of 9/11/5
I'd personallt stiffen the springs, but not sure how that tranfers to Nurb, so maybe keep them the same. (16.9 / 18.5)

Let me know.
 
RKM and Praino are well known tuners, i've never had any issues with there tunes. I use them to compare vs my tunes, mayb your pushing up too quickly but I would def try reducing front downforce, i'm on a controller aswell and was just online at 600PP running RC and streetcars and won. I had no issues. This is of course my setup and on the ring I did notice a few uphill elevation changes I had to throttle more carefully.

Yea I have tried a bunch of their other tunes of other vehicles and have loved all of them very much and never experienced that characteristic before on any of the other vehicles tunes I've tried. It is strictly just these GT cars that keep doing this. All the other cars I don't have any of that issue with at all, ever.
 
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=224513 My tune if you would like to try, Just did it in about 30 mins so if it works, cool. If not..I only spent 30 mins lol. i ran racing softs around the Nurburg And with 1 mistake pulled a 6'17. So for 600PP RC thats not to bad. i also tried Racing Hards and it wasan't too bad until the tires started to warm up. But the wheelspin is still there if throttle is applied too fast. I lowered the DF too where it feels right too me. Try it and let me know what you think.It'll be the 3rd tune down, listed as Toyota Yellowhat YMS Supra 600PP
 
I lost my long story that had a lot of detailed info.
Long story short, I've tested every Yellowhat setup and a handfull of the others.
For your specific issue...

Avoid These Tunes:
bucha22
Baby_Dave
Team Shmo
AdrenaTune
Photo Finish Racing

These will probably suit you best: (In order I feel you'll like)
Past4man
Blitz149
WRE(Xanavi)

For Nurb specifically, I'd add 10 to both ride heights (5/10 for Past4man)
And use an LSD of 9/11/5
I'd personallt stiffen the springs, but not sure how that tranfers to Nurb, so maybe keep them the same. (16.9 / 18.5)

Let me know.

Hey, sorry for taking so long to respond, but I basically blew my entire 4.2 million credits on the Audi R8 Race Car '01 that I bought from the used car dealership the other day for the Spa TT, so, I had to go run some races to get money to buy the gt-r 08 yellowhat lol.

Anyways, so I just tried out the Past4man tune on it, except, I didn't do the oil change or the stage 3 engine tuning, so that it remains under 600pp, but I did everything else it says to do in his tune, and, well, it doesn't have that exiting-oversteer characteristic quite as bad as the previous tunes I've tried on the supra or the raybrig, but, it still does have it, it's just I have to only be mildly careful not to floor it with the joystick held maxxed to the side while exiting low or medium speed corners pretty much, and if I am at least semi careful then it doesn't really do it much for the most part. It still isn't completely GONE though the way it just magically went away like *POOF* the way it did for Praiano's R8 Race Car '01 tune, which seemed to just completely magically entirely 100% erase that effect from the R8 Race Car '01 (which initially had that same problem in its stock form), so, it still isn't "perfect" for me the way that R8 Race Car '01 tune was, but, at this point I might be being a little bit nit picky/asking for a bit too much lol, since that was like the best tune I've everrrrrr used lol, so, obviously it's gonna be tough to match that level of stability like that one had.

Oh, also I need to try raising the ride height, cuz I just used the settings from his tune, I didn't try raising it yet the way you mentioned for the Nurb, so I'll try that right now after I click the post button. And then after that I'll try the other two tunes you mentioned, and also am gonna try the tune that the guy below you posted as well that he did for the supra.

Oh, that reminds me btw, for the third tune you posted, it says (Xanavi) in parentheses, so, did you mean that I should try that tune on the xanavi car, or, did you mean that I should try that tune except use it on the yellowhat gt-r? I assume the former, but just making sure
 
I'm pretty sure he meant the Xanavi GT-R, Most tunes even same car, Clarion GT-R vs. Yellowhat GT-R will behave differently. So you gotta buy the Xanavi GT-R, if you havent allready. I personally believe the Woodone Clarion GT-R to be my fav. Actually it won me 3 of the 7 races (JGTC League) I competed in before switching over to the Raybrig NSX. Eventually I switched again to the Yellowhat Supra which i'm still trying to find a JGTC League to compete in which hasant started yet but still no luck.
 
Oh, that reminds me btw, for the third tune you posted, it says (Xanavi) in parentheses, so, did you mean that I should try that tune on the xanavi car, or, did you mean that I should try that tune except use it on the yellowhat gt-r? I assume the former, but just making sure
I'd still try on the Yellowhat anyway and see what you think.
I just bought it to try and it doesn't feel too different, but I haven't played GT5 for a few months so it could just be me.

Edit: Just drove the Xanavi again, it seems to have better mid corner steering(using the same setup on both). Not a huge difference though
 
Last edited:
Ah, yea that's what I thought.

Alright, so I tried the raised ride height of the past4man tune, and I also tried blitz's tune and also tried your supra tune (mastergamer), and all of them still had it to some extent. Mastergamer's supra tune had it the most severe, but, when it wasn't doing it it kind of felt like it had the "fastest" type of potential to it if a really skilled driver who didn't mind the exit-oversteer was using it I could see them being able to go faster on that tune than on those GT-R tunes, by comparison

Anyways, I think I'll probably just end up going with the Past4man yellowhat GT-R tune, since it seems to be the most stable/safe of any of the SuperGT car tunes I've tried so far, so, that'll have to do for now.

Thanks for all the help guys, I appreciate it very much.
 
Yup, NP. The Yellowhat for me I balanced 50/50 weight distribution. It sure is incredibly quick, the lower gears, 1st through 3rd seem to do what you call exit oversteer, but onli if I apply to much throttle to quickly I see it happen. None the less the less aero you use the higher top speed, while more DF for quicker cornering but sloer top speed. I'm far from a skilled driver btw but i'll take the "faster compliment" for only spending 30 mins on it. lol :P

Another double post, I know. Looking at pasts setup. The +0.10 rear toe helps keep rear in check, where my -0.05 is for better tire wear (JGTC League). I also saw he had TCS on 3! If thats the case TCS is why your not slipping on exit. If you are running TCS try the Supra again at 1. It limits the amount of power being delivered to wheels, so instead of half throttle through corners it does this for you. Most GTP members dont run it so we dont use it. But if you used that on the GTR and not Supra that would explain mine having the worst exit oversteer, well that and my LSD stock. If you dont use driving aids then forget this post.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Lol. Obviously I wasn't referring to the Gold Award time of 7:48, that was ridiculously easy and can do that in any car allowed into the event even with just 500pp or less. I was referring to the top-256 leaderboards.
Yeah, I realise you never said and I just assumed. Sorry.

I usually don't even try to get my name high up onto the leaderboards as I know I'm not good enough to. I just usually pick something a bit oddball and unusual in order to beat the time, or if I'm going for a fast time, I'm happy if I put up a good show against the folk on my friends list. Last night i was up to 1470-ish, and fastest of my friends, in the Spa 700pp TT using a 787B and that's the highest I've been in a long time...
 
Anyways, so I just tried out the Past4man tune...and, well, it doesn't have that exiting-oversteer characteristic quite as bad as the previous tunes I've tried on the supra or the raybrig, but, it still does have it.

Oh, that reminds me btw, for the third tune you posted, it says (Xanavi) in parentheses, so, did you mean that I should try that tune on the xanavi car, or, did you mean that I should try that tune except use it on the yellowhat gt-r? I assume the former, but just making sure

1: Try the LSD, Ride Height and Springs I mentioned as a variation of his tune.
If you still feel the issue exists, then you have a few options.
The first one I would recommend, is making the Rear Camber 1.5, instead of 0.5 as he has listed.
Since you're running with a PP limit, I wouldn't adjust the aero, but personally I prefer Max/Front+10, but his tune is +20. But if that still feels loose to you, then you won't like my way.
If the camber doesn't fix it, you can add rake. (Rear ride height, higher than the front) His tune has 5, you can go to 7 or 9.
If that's not enough you can increase rear toe to +.15 or +.20.
If that's not enough you can soften the front spring, or stiffen the read spring. 1.0 should be enough.
If you think you can notice a difference via shocks, I would up the Front Extension to 8.

Make sure you use the LSD I mentioned, or something close.
10/10/5 would probably suit you more than the 9/11/5 I previously mentioned.

As for the Xanavi Tune, I meant to just try it on your Yellowhat.
But like I mentioned previously, the Xanavi seems to have the most natural understeer of the 3 '08 GT-R's, so maybe you would benefit from buying that one.

Also, 2 afterthoughts.
1: If all of these tunes still seem to be having issues, I'm quite curious what type of transmission settings you're using. Maybe you're simply in the wrong RPM, Gear, Powerband etc for said corner. Even possibly a poor turbo choice creating the condition.

2: Chassis reinforcement, and freshening. I won't take a firm stand on the matter for either side of the argument. But it has been expressed that Installing the Chassis Reinforcement, will inherently induce a small amount of understeer. I can neither claim this to be true nor false(mainly because I feel it differs car to car) but it's something you can try and see if it helps you. Do you have it installed?
 
Back