Need some tips for my Zr1 RM for Nurb

  • Thread starter MrPainCake
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Australia
Victoria
Mr_Paincake
hey all, just want some pointers on where to go with my tune, i use a DS3. so its a pain to drive the nurb 24hr track with some pointers/tips would be really handy, also what percentage of water on the track to change from say Race meds to intermediates then to rains at please, but for now heres my tune feedback and tips very welcome and needed:


Parts
sports Ecu
engine 1
converter sports
supercharger
full Trans
clutch twin plate
Fly wheel
LSD
prop shaft

Suspension
RH) 1/3
SR) 15.6/14.6
EXT) 4/5
COM) 6/7
ARB) 4/2
Camber) 2.4/0.8
toe) -0.12/-0.15

LSD
10
25
26
Downforce 35/55
Brakes 6/4
Power limiter 50.3% (404 hp)
trans
1) 3.691
2) 2.532
3) 1.870
4) 1.446
5) 1.137
6) 0.940
Final) 3.550
Max 300

tires Race mediums
 
hey all, just want some pointers on where to go with my tune, i use a DS3. so its a pain to drive the nurb 24hr track with some pointers/tips would be really handy, also what percentage of water on the track to change from say Race meds to intermediates then to rains at please, but for now heres my tune feedback and tips very welcome and needed:


Parts
sports Ecu
engine 1
converter sports
supercharger
full Trans
clutch twin plate
Fly wheel
LSD
prop shaft

Suspension
RH) 1/3 Minimum is 0/0, consider this slammed, raise at least 15clicks each. Make rear higher than front for cornering speed, front higher than rear for straight line speed.
SR) 15.6/14.6 Possibly soften a bit
EXT) 4/5 should be higher than com
COM) 6/7 should be lower than ext
ARB) 4/2should probably be even, no more than 1 off, maybe 3/2 or 2/2
Camber) 2.4/0.8
toe) -0.12/-0.15 I'd bring the rear toe back to 0.00 because it has more grip and toe doesn't help turning anymore anyway imo

LSD
10
25
26
Downforce 35/55 max if you can and it's not pp restricted. If it's pp restricted more like 35/50 or even 35/45
Brakes 6/4
Power limiter 50.3% (404 hp) OMG)
trans
1) 3.691
2) 2.532
3) 1.870
4) 1.446
5) 1.137
6) 0.940
Final) 3.550
Max 300

tires Race mediums
Nurburgring 24H rain/dry tire switching:
Switch to intermediate tires as soon as you know it's getting wet. 1 lap could mean 50% or more water here.
Switch to rain tires around 50-60%
Switch back to intermediate tires at 70-65% (on decline in wetness)
Switch back to slicks at 30-25%



Standard track rain/dry tires switching
Switch to intermediate tires at 20-30%
Switch to rain tires at 55-65%
Switch back to intermediate tires at 65-60% (on decline in wetness)
Switch back to slicks at 25-20%

In my opinion, of course. ;)
 
Nurburgring 24H rain/dry tire switching:
Switch to intermediate tires as soon as you know it's getting wet. 1 lap could mean 50% or more water here.
Switch to rain tires around 50-60%
Switch back to intermediate tires at 70-65% (on decline in wetness)
Switch back to slicks at 30-25%





In my opinion, of course. ;)

Ok thanks :) as for my tuning got any tips?
 
Ok
Test 1
Changed RH to 15/30
SR to 10.6/13.6
EXT to 4/7
Comp to 3/5
ARB to 2/2
Camber to 3.4/1.5
Toe to -0.12/0/00
Downforce is now maxed

RESULTS!
Rear of car on exit would step-out and spin alot
noticed the car bouncing alot more than before, (possibly from ride hight)
Car also seemed alot sharper in turns and i could take the Schumacher S at around 230 kms no problem now
 
And for the sake of making sure, make 1st and 2nd gear longer, since I assume by tight turns you mean slow hairpins and the such.
 
Another option would be to drop Accel down to 20 on the LSD, or just get on the power a little bit later.
 
Another option would be to drop Accel down to 20 on the LSD, or just get on the power a little bit later.

I think he's getting on the power too soon. My RM ZR1 is hovering at around 850 hp and still doesn't spin coming out of the carousel. He's is only 450, he's hitting the accelerator too hard too soon.
 
I think he's getting on the power too soon. My RM ZR1 is hovering at around 850 hp and still doesn't spin coming out of the carousel. He's is only 450, he's hitting the accelerator too hard too soon.

It's not even 450, it's barely 400hp, but I think he's also running with tyre wear on, which does have an effect on that…but with perfect conditions, lead feet/fingers are the only times when the back of the car tried to overtake the front when I was testing.
 
It's not even 450, it's barely 400hp, but I think he's also running with tyre wear on, which does have an effect on that…but with perfect conditions, lead feet/fingers are the only times when the back of the car tried to overtake the front when I was testing.

I honestly can see how you could spin that car at that power. I will try this tune tonight when I get in, with my wheel and my DS3.

To the OP, I would suggest adapting your driving style. I used to be the same, until immortal pilot took me through some steps to get better when I first got my wheel.
 
I honestly can see how you could spin that car at that power. I will try this tune tonight when I get in, with my wheel and my DS3.

To the OP, I would suggest adapting your driving style. I used to be the same, until immortal pilot took me through some steps to get better when I first got my wheel.

hmm i guess i am very late on the brakes and do like to push it alot, but thats the only way i seem to gain time on these guys im racing
 
hmm i guess i am very late on the brakes and do like to push it alot, but thats the only way i seem to gain time on these guys im racing

If you apply power in a smooth and consistent way you will be faster. It will seem slower to you, it did to me, but I promise you, if you are smooth with your braking and power you will gain time. This is one if the reasons wheel users have an advantage over DS3, because we have more control over our inputs.

Also, I would consider maybe changing your car, I don't think you will get the best out of it at that HP. Do you have to use the RM?
 
If you apply power in a smooth and consistent way you will be faster. It will seem slower to you, it did to me, but I promise you, if you are smooth with your braking and power you will gain time. This is one if the reasons wheel users have an advantage over DS3, because we have more control over our inputs.

Also, I would consider maybe changing your car, I don't think you will get the best out of it at that HP. Do you have to use the RM?

yeah has to be an RM or TC
 
yeah so would i, but for requirements it needs to be 1100kgs and its 900 kgs, so thats 200 kg ballist so it becomes slugish

Not really actually, because no matter how you look at it, 1100kg is still really quite light. And you also have the advantage of being able to adjusting the ballast positioning to suit your driving style.
 
Yeah I would say use the RX7 and put 200kgs of ballast towards the rear, not all the way back, but a little.

hmmm ive got friends who always say 50/50 weight is best, but when i tried the rx7 at 404 hp with 1100kgs. it felt sluggish, very slow off the mark but ill have to try again,
 
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