New to iRacing

  • Thread starter Vosegus
  • 59 comments
  • 7,563 views
iceman25
Hi there just wanted some info I joined iracing a week ago I've got a Dfgt wheel and I was just wondering how much the Dfgt pedals would lose you on a lap compared to some better ones at the moment I'm getting a average 1.01.300 to a 1.02.300 at lime rock park in the maza mx5 thanks
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It's mostly a matter of practice. I have a DFGT wheel and pedal combo as well, and they sure miss some precision as a result of their lack of resistance. I'm sure that I could be a little quicker with a proper brake pedal, but it wouldn't be an entire second I think. Maybe not even half. My PB on Lime Rock with the MX5 is 1.00.xxx , and I know that there is more to get if I can my braking zones in the first sector right.
 
Fryto
It's mostly a matter of practice. I have a DFGT wheel and pedal combo as well, and they sure miss some precision as a result of their lack of resistance. I'm sure that I could be a little quicker with a proper brake pedal, but it wouldn't be an entire second I think. Maybe not even half. My PB on Lime Rock with the MX5 is 1.00.xxx , and I know that there is more to get if I can my braking zones in the first sector right.
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Still using my DFGT and it does require a bit of dialing in. More fine adjustments than GranT could possibly ever have with the Logitech Software running in the back ground. There's a post on how to set it up.
The shifter/pedals is what is the limiting factor, at times, but not by much.
The Fanatec GT3 w/ CSR Elite pedals is on the way.
I didn't do to bad for my first season (3 weeks counted) in the Mustang Challenge: Div 5, 32nd. 279 overall. Div 7 TT w/ a 3rd place Certificate.
TEST TEST TEST & TEST AGAIN!
 
left888
Ya, that's the best way to do it, they also offer the buy 1 year get a 2nd year for free, although I'm not sure of the exact date.
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Its usually around July 23rd or so when they do the 2 for 1 deals. Only reason I know is that last time my sub was running out 2 years ago this special popped up right before I had to renew on Aug. 16th and since its going to run out this Aug. I checked my iracing transactions the other day just to see. If you can wait that's the best deal as its $100 for 2 years or $200 for 4 years. I really hope it comes back around this year cause if not Ill have to bite the bullet and pay full price since my sub runs out a couple weeks later.
 
I've just upgraded to a fanatic csw and csps which were expensive but the dfgt wheel was fine before that. I just recommend you get better pedals. either the elite pedals or clubsports v2s as they have a loadcell. The dfgt wheel is ace, pedals = crap!

Times aren't bad for your first week on the service but I wouldn't worry about lap times at the moment. Winning races isnt that important at first and there will be a lot of rookies doing some dodgy driving! So just practice doing race length stints staying on track. Keep out of trouble. Rookie licence is almost counter intuitive, its better not to race for position, let people pass, stay on track, get clean races and get your SR up to get out of rookies!

Best of luck!
 
Vosegus
I don't quite understand, I MUST play the NASCAR series in order to progeress to the GT3 league?
Taht's a huge disappointment for me...
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Vosegus
If you're a clean driver I'd be willing to extend an invite to you to check out a league that will let you drive the BMW, McLaren, or Ruf without needing to work up to the B class license. We have all skill levels driving now and its incredibly clean racing. We've had positions separated by hundredths of a second and lead changes within car lengths of the finish line. We just ask that you drive respectfully and have a good attitude.
PM me if interested or check out Rumblestrip Road Racing in the iRacing league section (assuming you have the membership now).
 
Vosegus
I don't quite understand, I MUST play the NASCAR series in order to progeress to the GT3 league?
Taht's a huge disappointment for me...
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Actually the invite to the GT3 league extends to anyone here who'd be willing to race cleanly. We took a season off and we're looking to rebuild the participation.
 
Silver-Sylph
No, you wouldnt be able to meet your MPR. Highest you can get without buying anything is C class.
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Huh? What is MPR? What is needed to meet that? I was planning to run in the MX5 till I could race in the GT3 series. I cant?

I've been racing for about a week now, got my iRating to 2200 in between dips caused by being taken out by idiots (seriously iRacing has horrible driving standards, I'll take GT public lobbies thanks). I want to get to GT3 cars where I won't (hopefully) be penalized for not using a clutch (because GT3 cars don't have a manual clutch).

Building SR is a pain, the fastest way around many tracks kills SR. There are two places at summit where going off track gains significant time, guess I'll have to forgo these shortcuts to get my A license :(
 
nasanu
Huh? What is MPR? What is needed to meet that? I was planning to run in the MX5 till I could race in the GT3 series. I cant?

I've been racing for about a week now, got my iRating to 2200 in between dips caused by being taken out by idiots (seriously iRacing has horrible driving standards, I'll take GT public lobbies thanks). I want to get to GT3 cars where I won't (hopefully) be penalized for not using a clutch (because GT3 cars don't have a manual clutch).

Building SR is a pain, the fastest way around many tracks kills SR. There are two places at summit where going off track gains significant time, guess I'll have to forgo these shortcuts to get my A license :(
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No, you can only get to C-Class with the free Caddy, you gotta atleast buy the ruf to get to gt3. MPR is minimum participation requirement. You have to do atleast 4 races/time trails in that license class before your allowed to be promoted. There is no free road car that is C-Class so you wouldnt be able to be promoted till you buy a C-Class car to meet MPR. Rookie series mx5s dont have very good standards because well..its rookies. Driving standards rise exponentially in the higher classes. Although GT3 can have some pretty bad people to, with 35 cars on the grid someone is bound to make a mistake but the higher the split the better the standard of racing.
 
Silver-Sylph
No, you can only get to C-Class with the free Caddy, you gotta atleast buy the ruf to get to gt3. MPR is minimum participation requirement. You have to do atleast 4 races/time trails in that license class before your allowed to be promoted. There is no free road car that is C-Class so you wouldnt be able to be promoted till you buy a C-Class car to meet MPR. Rookie series mx5s dont have very good standards because well..its rookies. Driving standards rise exponentially in the higher classes. Although GT3 can have some pretty bad people to, with 35 cars on the grid someone is bound to make a mistake but the higher the split the better the standard of racing.
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Actually I don't have an issue with the rookies. They spin off the track and out of my way, they only harm themselves. Its the A and B class drivers that annoy me. Actually had one spin me on the straight the other night, just got beside my rear wheel and turned in. But most of the time they think passing is sticking the nose of the car up to the inside rear wheel of the car in front, spinning him to take the place.

Its cleaver the way the rules are setup to make you buy DLC (and by far the most expensive DLC in racing game history). Its structured like a free to play game, but its not free to play, its actually more expensive than normal titles. So absurd. But what can you do when the competition is so poor?

EDIT: Just had my first D class race in the.. Something haha, the other series with the MX5. So much easier than the rookie Mazda cup. I bought the track only minutes before the race, stuck to the back at the start, then proceeded to reel everyone else in winning by 20 seconds... I didn't even know the track.
 
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nasanu
Actually I don't have an issue with the rookies. They spin off the track and out of my way, they only harm themselves. Its the A and B class drivers that annoy me. Actually had one spin me on the straight the other night, just got beside my rear wheel and turned in. But most of the time they think passing is sticking the nose of the car up to the inside rear wheel of the car in front, spinning him to take the place.

Its cleaver the way the rules are setup to make you buy DLC (and by far the most expensive DLC in racing game history). Its structured like a free to play game, but its not free to play, its actually more expensive than normal titles. So absurd. But what can you do when the competition is so poor?

EDIT: Just had my first D class race in the.. Something haha, the other series with the MX5. So much easier than the rookie Mazda cup. I bought the track only minutes before the race, stuck to the back at the start, then proceeded to reel everyone else in winning by 20 seconds... I didn't even know the track.
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Most people will tell you this isnt just a "game". While there is no doubt it is very expensive, i have had better races on iRacing than i have on any other racing game released, there is always someone faster than you and when you finally win against a strong field it is so much more rewarding.
 
Anyone know what the deal with the transmission on the Cadillac CTS is? From what I understand this car has no manual clutch and has seamless up shifts requiring no lift from its sequential gearbox. That is all well and good, but how do you down shift? What is the condition for getting a down shift? With auto blip I can downshift fine most of the time, but 90% of the time I can't shift down at all with auto clutch or no assists. I can understand it not letting me shift if I rev too high, but if I try to rev mach.. nothing. If the revs are very low.. nothing. Even on idle it won't let me down shift. What is the trick?
 
Hey I'm new to iracing.com. is it any good? because I'm plan on downloading the game with my parents permission of course, but needing a little advice. and one more thing will my Logitech gt driving force work for the game?
 
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trevor24
Hey I'm new to iracing.com. is it any good? because I'm plan on downloading the game with my parents permission of course, but needing a little advice.
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If you look at sim racing as more of a hobby than just a game then ... Yep !
You'll get the most out of it if you're set up with at least a wheel and pedals. If you set out a plan of what racing series you want to get into, then only purchase what you need (and in bulk) you can save yourself some money too.
If you want to take your sim racing seriously then you cant go wrong with iRacing.

I think there is a 3 month free trial code floating around here somewhere too.
 
noshog
If you look at sim racing as more of a hobby than just a game then ... Yep !
You'll get the most out of it if you're set up with at least a wheel and pedals. If you set out a plan of what racing series you want to get into, then only purchase what you need (and in bulk) you can save yourself some money too.
If you want to take your sim racing seriously then you cant go wrong with iRacing.

I think there is a 3 month free trial code floating around here somewhere too.
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say will my Logitech driving force gt work for the game?
 
hey do i have to give credit card information just because they said 3 months for free? because i was told that you have to watch for those people.
 
trevor24
If they charge me when 4th month comes what do I do then?
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You can turn autorenew off so they dont charge you when your time is up and you'll just lose access to the members site. I currently have mine setup with autorenew off and i renew it in 3 month chunks until the black friday 1 year deal goes up.
 
Pretty sure your user / account name is taken from the credit card too. Don't worry , iRacing are legit , but if you use your parents credit card , you will have to contact iRacing once the account is established and get them to edit it to your name..... or race under your mums name :D
 
trevor24
hey do i have to give credit card information just because they said 3 months for free? because i was told that you have to watch for those people.
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Just for any future new members information, I never gave iRacing my Credit card details, I paid/pay with PayPal, and have the AutoRenewal set to off, so iRacing don't have any of my payment details.
 
trevor24
Hey I'm new to iracing.com. is it any good? because I'm plan on downloading the game with my parents permission of course, but needing a little advice. and one more thing will my Logitech gt driving force work for the game?
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DFGT will work for a while...then it'll be lacking in performance. If you still like iRacing after the 3 month's, but still not a daily racer, you'll want to move to the G27(if Logitech is your thing). Unless you're one of the fabled "Aliens" with a DFGT that everybody likes to speak of!? Just sayin'...everybody has to practice to be the best they can be!
 
YouichiHophop
Just for any future new members information, I never gave iRacing my Credit card details, I paid/pay with PayPal, and have the AutoRenewal set to off, so iRacing don't have any of my payment details.
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I use to use single debit cards and load my account...until it became just a pain in the rear.
 
I have all the SIMs : GT6, Assetto Corsa, GSC,RF...but I keep coming back to iRacing. I only do few races that I feel comfortable
- Spec Racer Ford
- Skip Barber
- Global Challenge
- RUF Cup
- GT3
- Mazda Cup

My advice, get out from Mazda Cup ASAP and try Global Challenge with Caddy V8. This week they will be at Mount Panorama and tell you, I will test you ability to the fullest. Just keep you SR and you'll ended up top 10 , because of the wrecks by other racer.

I always record my iRacing race on GoPro, so check it out : https://www.youtube.com/user/bazet
 
Why iRacing is expensive ?

1) Laser scanned track
2) Very very great NetCode ( i always race in 300ms ping and no problem at all )
3) there's always a race every hour ( multiplayer )
4) they pay you for participation in iRacing Credit, so you can buy tracks or car

I race on decent midrange PC hardware
- 8GB Ram
- G27
- 42" monitor
- Radeon R9 270X 2GB Card ( 150 minimum fps all day long )

10922538_10153031373792145_575022845370827487_n.jpg
 
Also if you want to get to class C without buying anything and then not using it. Get promoted to class D, level up your SR to 4.0 then buy whatever class C car and track you want to run. Then run 4 races and maintain 4.0 and you will be promoted. This will stop you from "Wasting" money on a car you do not want to use.
 

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