The laws of physics, along with brake and tyre manufactures and race engineers and designers the world over disagree with you. So personally I like the company I am in.
As long as your current braking system is capable of locking up your tyres then increasing rotor size and/or fitting more powerful calipers will not stop you quicker. As long as your tyres are locking then they are your limiting factor not your tyres...
Source -
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_brakebiasandperformance.shtml
and
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/The Physics of Braking Systems.pdf
...read the above two and then come back.
BTW - You may also want to know that I have taught the fundamentals of vehicle dynamics within the motor industry for over a decade. This a subject I know a bit about.
Scaff
There are about 6 direct factors to stoppong distances. I won't re-mention tires. They are: Surface conditions (snow, rain, dirt etc.,) vehicle mass (weight transfer, distribution and cornering load,) tire grip (size, profile, compound,) braking efficiency (are you braking too late? Are you braking, but your brake pads and rotors are worn and no longer create friction? Are your brakes overheating?) and corner entry speed. A Formula 1 car stops well, because of downforce creating lots of grip. Think back to Spa 2010, when it started to rain, while the cars were on dry tires-they didn't stop in time. It all comes down to available grip. Even in heavy cars, the load affects grip. A Land Rover takes longer to stop because the tires have SO MUCH to stop. Your Buick might be the same, thread poster. It may not have sufficient grip to compare to the other cars, which are lighter and have downforce. DON'T QUESTION SCAFF. The man is smart. Formula 1 cars run their carbon ceramic brakes to reduce brake fade and unsprung weight. Consider the weight of street brakes against carbon ceramic.
EDIT* To further clarify my reasoning, I'll include some simple steps to explain an integral idea:
1.Buy a bicycle with V-brakes. These clamp directly onto the sides of the rims.
2. Hold bike off the ground.
3. Spin front tire.
4. Apply front brake.
5. Notice that tire stopped turning immediately.
6. Ride bicycle.
7. Fully engage rear brake, to avoid going over the handlebars.
8. With rider on bicycle, there is greater forward inertia. This means the force acting against the brakes is greater.
9. If rear tire does not lock, get better brakes.
9.5. Re-run step 7 with better brakes, strong enough to lock the tire.
Observations: Inertia will increase braking distances: Newtonic physics "An object in motion..."
Grip is the deciding factor, given that the brakes are powerful enough to come JUST short of locking up. The best braking distances on dry pavement use ABS to modulate the brakes UNTIL THE THRESHOLD just before loss of grip.