One make race- what is wrong with Opel Speedster race?

  • Thread starter Penarin
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Penarin

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I bought an Opel Speedster Turbo, put a few "normal" mods on it, and went in to race. Oddly enough, it said "200 A Spec points," and I got smoked.

So I modded the car some more, even stepping up to medium racing tires, and went back. It still said 200 points. I gave it a go, and lost. Bad.

I then modified the car WAY beyond what I consider practical, and got a 187 point race. Finally got 1st place that way, but it was STILL UGLY RACING.

What gives? Some sort of programming error or bug?

Other than this mess, I am still enjoying the heck out of this game :)
 
If I have racing tyres on and I get 200 A-spec points it's one hard race, mind you I did have the aids turned off.
 
Try the Normal Speedster rather than the Turbo.

The Powr may be less so the A Spec score will be higher, but the power curve is fatter and less peaky than the Turbo.
 
There is indeed some sort of bug in the race.

The AI cars are about 20% superior than the highest your car can go, so that's why it's a difficult race. But not impossible.

What I did was buy the NA Speedster (not turbo, as Mayuri Ootsuka suggested); although it achieves less hp when fully tuned, its power band is much wider. Then tune it to the maximum, including spoiler, and race it. After you've won it all, sell said Speedster and buy a new one, to tune to your liking.
 
Diego has the right approach. The NA car has a distinct advantage in this race, over the Turbo car.

The standard non-masochistic approach is to Tune the NA car to the hilt and prepare for some close racing.
 
Wow. Okaaaay. I'm not looking forward to this one.

So I'll get the regular NA car, put everything on it, spoiler too, but...

What should I do to the settings?

Should I B-Spec it?
 
Dracwolley
Wow. Okaaaay. I'm not looking forward to this one.

So I'll get the regular NA car, put everything on it, spoiler too, but...

What should I do to the settings?

Should I B-Spec it?
Click to expand...

I don't think B-spec'ing it will improve your chances, unless your b-spec driver is exceptionally good. (i.e above 9000 points)

To be honest, doing the race with the NA car, fully tuned + spoiler isn't that hard. I won all races by over 5 seconds. Granted, you have to know the tracks and learn a bit about the car, but once you've mastered that, you're all set. I'm almost sure you're allowed to use racing tyres; if so, I used R3s, so not even the stickiest variety is necessary.

the settings should be left alone... just leave it like it is once you've done all the mods. Depending on the track you might want to lengthen or shorten the auto set in the gearbox, and if need be, maybe stiffen a bit the suspension. Maybe Duck has a tuning for it that makes it better.

take a look at the tuning & settings thread to see if something's been done to it.
 
Dracwolley
Wow. Okaaaay. I'm not looking forward to this one.
So I'll get the regular NA car, put everything on it, spoiler too, but...
What should I do to the settings?
Should I B-Spec it?
Click to expand...
Oh, hell no!. I'm 60% done with the game and I have zero B-spec miles.

As DA and Diego have mentioned, I used the NA Speedster and thoroughly enjoyed this entire series. The only race I won by less than 2 seconds was the Suzuka East race, and that's only because I really don't like Suzuka. Autmn Ring I was up by 6 seconds, Grand Valley by 3.mid", and Sears Point and Seattle were both 2.low" margins, and a hoot to run for 200 A-spec. Here's my build sheet:
  • Turbo 3
  • chip
  • race intake/exhaust
  • 3x clutch and racing flywheel
  • race brakes
  • race suspension
  • lightweight 3
  • R3 (race medium) tires
In this trim the car was pushing 314hp/265tq and weighed 773kg. I did NOT add the wing, and I left all other settings unadjusted except to turn TCS and ASM to all zeroes.

I also didn't qualify for any races (if there are any you even can qualify for). My fast laps for each track are as follows:
  • Suzuka East - 0':51.536" (getting used to car and AI tactics)
  • Autumn Ring - 1':19.848"
  • Sears Point Sports Car - 1':35.282"
  • Seattle - 1':36.400"
  • Grand Valley - 1':56.657"
Really, this was one of the series I've enjoyed most. Without a real 'rabbit' AI that takes off and leaves the rest of the field, meaning you have to duel mano a mano with one car, this series allows for some real racing feel because the AI stays a little closer together.

Don't fear it! Enjoy it!
 
I had set mine up like Duke's except I also added port & polish and engine balancing, R4 tires (only time I've ever used anything stickier than R3's, on any car) and a wing. The first time I A-specced it I barely squeaked out a win. Later on, after getting a little more experience with the game, I went back and won easily. Since I only got 124 A-spec points, I should revisit it some day with a setup more like Duke's and get the 200 pts per race.

It's a single race series, not a championship, so you always have to start sixth. It would have been a lot easier if you could qualify.

It could be a bug, but I'm not convinced it is. It's possible they made it difficult just to keep people on their toes. After all, a lot of people get in the habit of buying a car for a manufacturers' race, toss on a couple cheap parts and have at it, then move on to the next series. When you get to the Speedster race and a few others you sit up and take notice.
 
BobK
It's a single race series, not a championship, so you always have to start sixth.
Click to expand...
I learn something new every day. I never knew that was how it was set up.
It could be a bug, but I'm not convinced it is. It's possible they made it difficult just to keep people on their toes. After all, a lot of people get in the habit of buying a car for a manufacturers' race, toss on a couple cheap parts and have at it, then move on to the next series. When you get to the Speedster race and a few others you sit up and take notice.
Click to expand...
I don't think it's a bug at all! I think PD did it on purpose to catch out all the impatient people who use power instead of skill to bludgeon the rest of the game. I find it's a lot like the Pro Vitz/Yaris series was in GT3. All the maxxxed out Skyline/Supra/Evo jockeys who had gamesharked their license tests all complained that the Vitz series was 'impossible', whereas those of us who catually enjoy driving and learned how to do it properly found it to be some of the best racing in the game.
 
To be honest, I didn't think the Yaris race was hard in GT3... it was a bit of a challenge, yes... but I never thought it was hard... or at least not harder

Gamesharks suck
 
-Diego-
To be honest, I didn't think the Yaris race was hard in GT3... it was a bit of a challenge, yes... but I never thought it was hard... or at least not harder

Gamesharks suck
Click to expand...
My point exactly. Thank you.
 
Why no one notices that the regular speedster has more HP fully modded and weights less than the turbo one fully modded? It would make the races much easier, also installing a hideous wing can help big time when you increase the downforce. Bob loves this car too.
 
TuneRVisioN
Why no one notices that the regular speedster has more HP fully modded and weights less than the turbo one fully modded?
Click to expand...
Cause it doesn't - the N/A is lighter, but the turbo has more hp. Apart from that, I also recommend the N/A, but despite the turbo being more difficult to drive, it is still faster on the track.

Regards
the Interceptor
 
The turbo one has less HP fully modded, but making the NA one have turbo and fully modding it makes it faster than the turbo one fully modded. Yes I have checked. Too bad they can't get 6 gears... :ouch:
 
TuneRVisioN
The turbo one has less HP fully modded, but making the NA one have turbo and fully modding it makes it faster than the turbo one fully modded. Yes I have checked. Too bad they can't get 6 gears... :ouch:
Click to expand...

You might want to check again then. My fully modded Speedster: 339 hp. Fully modded Turbo Speedster: 367 hp.
 
Either way, with the car lightened fully, 300hp is enough to win the series.
 
I've used the following:-

Opel Speedster Turbo '00 49,550 fitted with:-

Racing Medium Tyres (R3) 22,250Cr
Stage 1 Weight Reduction 1,100Cr
Stage 2 Weight Reduction 5,300Cr
Stage 3 Turbo Kit 41,500Cr
Racing Intercooler 2,700Cr
Racing Chip 1,250Cr
Wing 1,200Cr
Oil change 50Cr

All driving aids off.

Gives 308HP (312HP on garage screen) and easy 200pt wins for a total of 124,900Cr spent.

Opel Speedster '00 44,690Cr fitted with:-

Racing Medium Tyres (R3) 22,000Cr
Stage 3 Turbo Kit 40,000
Racing Chip 1,000Cr
Wing 1,200Cr
Oil change 50Cr

All driving aids off.

Gives 299HP (303HP on garage screen) and easy 200pt wins for a miserly 108,940Cr spent.

The non-turbo Speedster is definitely the cheaper option, as there's no need to spend money on weight reduction, and contrary to what you may have heard elsewhere, it's not necessary to spend money on brake, transmission or suspension upgrades either.

Hope that helps. :D
 
The NA one has a better power to weight ratio, but they are pretty similar, so either one can win fully modified if you are an OKAY driver, in other words better than the AI. :)
 
I wonder how many drivers struggled with the Turbo before they discovered the Normal car was more drivable?

Quite alot looking at other GT4 Forums! Nice to see the "Try the Normal Speedster" advice was backed up with some actual numbers.

It did make for a memorable part of the game, with your tongue still inside your mouth!
 
Yeah, the NA is easier to drive... the Turbo feels more inclined to understeer.

And the NA can have a better PWR... I feel its the better car, from enjoyment and performance (aside from top speed).

I did a near full power tune and I think I put it on R3 tires, maybe R2. Was a great race in being close and fun.

And what Diego said about the GT3 Yaris/Vitz race, I fully agree. Was a fun and challanging race, and made the Vitz one of my favorite cars in the game (Actually beat like half of GT3 with the pink Vitz).

PD needs more races like this where their is an actual challenge to them that can't just be overcome with raw power and racing tires.
 
BobK
You might want to check again then. My fully modded Speedster: 339 hp. Fully modded Turbo Speedster: 367 hp.
Click to expand...

Well, I have one of each now (turbo and NA) and that's the same numbers I got, when you throw in all of the power mods (even P&P, balance, etc).

NA Speedster w/ stage 3 turbo, all other power mods, 3x weight reduc 773kg

Turbo speedster w /stage 3 turbo, all other power mods, 3x weight red 914kg

So I am going to hop in the Turbo'ed version of the NA Speedster... at 773kg that is probably one of my lightest cars.

We'll see how it goes. So far I just have the first race won, and that was in the 914kg machine. It was ugly, hopefull I can turn in a cleaner race in the other car. Going to check now...

And hey, thanks for the advice. Nice to know I'm not the only one struggling with this race.
 
Um, yeah. The NA Speedster with the big turbo is the way to go. That config got me 177 points, the lowest I've seen yet. On the second race (Autumn Ring), I was in 1st for a while- largely due to the front car practically wiping out right in front of me, giving me an easy pass.

So there I was in 1st, on the last lap (of course), when I hit a rumble strip, and oddly enought caught HUGE air. I lost it when I landed, but who cares. It was funny.

With more patience and less Miller Light, I will get this one done :)
 
Penarin
With more patience and less Miller Light, I will get this one done :)
Click to expand...

Ah, now I see where you're stumbling with this one!
Throw patience out of the window, along with the rest of your Miller Light. :yuck:
Get some real beer in, and you should be all set! :cheers:
 

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