One Make Races - Italy, Korea, UK & USA

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Dear Uncle Harry and others of the Hyundai Club 156,

I'm disgruntled to report that B-spec lap time variation of the other cars is not to be found at Tsukuba like it is at Hong Kong.:grumpy:

However, continuing A-spec work at the Tsukuba circuit with my black Tiburon has achieved the important step to N1/N2 tires. A fairly straightforward race yields an incremental 4 point improvement in A-spec score at Tuskuba, up to 160 with a light ballast load of 46 kg. Naturally I hope to increase the points further towards the goal of 176 as proficiency improves and the setup is refined. :D

The setup is different than for Hong Kong:
http://www.gtvault.com/gt4/setup-view/s_sid::8036/Tiburon-GT-Dotini2001/
Any feedback on the setup will be respectfully appreciated and gratefully received.
 
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I'm ecstatic to report the taking of 176 A-spec points at the Tsukuba round of the Hyundai events. My black car defeated a lineup consisting of red, teal, silver, blue and white Tiburons, the first grid after a Sarthe II Preview.

The engine had black oil for 159 hp. Manual shifting is used. The main tuning problem here is controlling wheelspin, which in the end was virtually eliminated with maximum forward weight bias, carefully selected ratios and plenty of TCS. Such was the ability of my car to maintain traction, that I found a totally new way to win. :D

http://www.gtvault.com/gt4/setup-view/s_sid::8036/Tiburon-GT-Dotini2001/

In the race, 5th place (blue) was taken by riding inside at turn 1. 4th place (white) was taken by riding inside at turn 3. 3rd place (silver) was taken with strong acceleration and riding inside at turn 4. Then the key trick: instead of exiting the turn on the pavement, I forced the silver car to the fence on the outside, which left me on the grass outside of turn 5. By continuing to motor on the grass as if it were the most normal thing in the world, I bypassed turns 5, 6 and 7 and cut easily in front of the lead car (red) while he was accelerating out of the hairpin. He piled into me, coming to a complete stop and getting rammed by the teal car who bumped and wriggled past both of us into the lead. Even so, I easily caught him (teal) in turn 8, riding him inside and taking the lead well before start/finish with a laptime of 1:17.821. I blocked and occasionally used nitrous on lap 2, with a time of 1:16.020. Lap 3 saw more blocking, but was finished with plenty of nitrous to spare with a lap time of 1:14.500. MOV was ~1.1 second.

The only events in the game I have not completed for maximum points are the Autumn Ring round of the Tiburon events and the Roadster 4 Hr. I have a dynamite new setup for the Miata, but that AR event may be a bridge too far for this old racer.

I'd like to add that recently I completed the NY Mini race for maximum points. I used a combination of GTsail290's excellent setup (post #111) and SirBerra's superb gear ratios (post #24) to make the job as easy as it's ever likely to get. Thanks!
 
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Great job Dotini 👍

The Hyundai events are IMO amoung the top 3 toughest series in the game for max pts., especially Hong Kong.

Slowly but surely I see your closing in on the Max pt. total.

I'm sure you will have it before long.
 
SCJ, I thought honkers was actually the easier of the lot, especially with the hair pin ride. Me I found AR and Tsikuba the hardest.
 
Open Addict
SCJ, I thought honkers was actually the easier of the lot, especially with the hair pin ride. Me I found AR and Tsikuba the hardest.
Click to expand...

They were all hard, but for whatever reason it took me more attempts to complete Hong Kong than the others. I may not have had the best lineup or setup maybe. Collectively they are among the top hardest races.
 
Is there a thread or a poll that establishes the "Top Ten" hardest races in the game of GT4?

I would nominate Tiburons at AR, Tsukuba and Hong Kong, Concepts at Seattle and Tsukuba, GTi at Opera Paris, Crossfire at MSS, Copens at Motorland and AR, Saleens at Suzuka and Roadster 4 Hr. But that's eleven!

Honorable Mentions, from me, must go to Mini's at NY, Aston Martins at AR and BMW "M"s at Apricot Hill.

This may not be the thread to ask such a question, although many of these makes do reside in this particular thread for Korea, UK, USA and Italy.
 
Dotini
Is there a thread or a poll that establishes the "Top Ten" hardest races in the game of GT4?

I would nominate Tiburons at AR, Tsukuba and Hong Kong, Concepts at Seattle and Tsukuba, GTi at Opera Paris, Crossfire at MSS, Copens at Motorland and AR, Saleens at Suzuka and Roadster 4 Hr. But that's eleven!

Honorable Mentions, from me, must go to Mini's at NY, Aston Martins at AR and BMW "M"s at Apricot Hill.

This may not be the thread to ask such a question, although many of these makes do reside in this particular thread for Korea, UK, USA and Italy.
Click to expand...


With a add of 1000 miles, I think you've nailed it pretty well.
 
New Member here, so I hope this is posted in the proper place. I did a search but didn't find this Ride listed. Some time ago I ran this series for 1,000 Points but don't remember adding ballast. Perhaps I used R2s but did NOT do an Oil Change? Will use one of the Prize Cars without an Oil Change soon & see if that yields a similar result. At any rate, the following illustrates how I did it this time. Full Mods everywhere but the Engine (except for Oil Change). Hope the format is OK.

Shelby Cobra Cup / Shelby Mustang GT 350R (65)

Race #1: LAGUNA SECA RACEWAY: 3'18.689 / 306HP (Replay Screen) RH/RM / +20kgs Ballast

Race #2: SEATTLE: 3'37.271 / 306HP (Replay Screen) RSH/RH / +??kgs Ballast (Probably NONE - Poor notes!)

Race #3: HIGH SPEED RING: 2'43.260 / 306HP (Replay Screen) RH/RS / +12kgs Ballast

Race #4: NEW YORK CITY: 3'40.049 / 306HP (Replay Screen) RH/RS / +12kgs Ballast

Race #5: TRIAL MOUNTAIN: 3'28.038 / 306HP (Replay Screen) RH/RM / +20kgs Ballast

I noticed somewhere (in a post from Famine I think) that only the front tires affect points so I tried different combos of Ballast & Tires to obtain 200 points per race. I hope someone else is inspired to give this series a try. I had a couple of close finishes & really enjoyed it even if the 427 Cobras drive like a bunch of Hooligans at the New York venue.
 
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@ Blues Deluxe, Welcome to the hunt.

But, What series did you run in and what actual car did you use, as this would be helpful. :)

I assume because you mention the 427 Cobra, it is the Shelby Cobra Cup? and you probably used the Shelby Series 1?
But i should not assume because i will make an ass out of u and me.

Again Welcome to the hunt and hope to see you around a lot more 👍
 
Open Addict
All good Blues 👍. Did you do any set-up changes or did you just add the other parts and go with the default?
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I'm NOT a very good tuner, so I just Lower most of my rides to about 5pts above the minimum & Max out the Sway Bars, usually works well for me. Then I picked a "Real World" differential ratio (3.70 I think) & just adjusted the slider for each venue. Never mess with the differential but sometimes adjust the Brake bias more towards the front. Also, probably wouldn't have needed to add ballast if I hadn't done the final weight reduction. PS2 not on ATM but I'd be happy to share my settings if you need them. It's quite an easy ride to drive & I used the same settings with Max HP to post times on a database, (not sure if it's OK to mention the name here), only ride to beat my times was the Series 1 with lots more Horsepower.
 
Welcome aboard Blues Deluxe!

A very nice recommendation for the Shelby One Make Race Series:tup:

Can you go back and locate your settings? Like Open Addict says, this would be a great addition for others trying for points in this race series.

Just for fun, I took my heavily modified Shelby Mustang GT 350R to this series and took down the Shelby Cobra 427's at Trial Mountain (the Mustang is a little under-powered going up the mountain, but every where else the 427's had no chance). I was on R2 tires all around, and had 323HP (at the garage screen), and was awarded 200 A-spec points.

Happy A-spec hunting!

GTsail290
 
THANKS for the Welcome. I'm 99% sure these are the settings mentioned above (I have a bunch of these rides). I'll check next time I have a chance but I really think a PRE-Oil Change ride with R-2s would work at all five venues. Tuning Shop HP shows 311HP before Oil Change & 326HP after.

SHELBY MUSTANG G.T. 350R

4.4....Spring Rate...4.0
97.....Ride Height...97
3......Bound..........3
9......Rebound.......9
2.5...Camber.........1.5
0......Toe..............0
7......Stabs...........6

ASM/O...0
ASM/U...0
TCS......1

Hope this helps someone. Let me know if you give it a shot.
 
Manufacturer's Hall- USA: Vette! Vette! Vette! (all races)

Car: '54 Chevrolet Corvette equipped with the following for 200 A-spec pts.:

S3 tires
racing transmission
triple plate clutch
racing flywheel
1.5 way LSD
carbon driveshaft
semi-racing suspension
NA stage 1
semi-racing muffler
Nitrous (only for NY Reverse)

This setup gives you 185 hp. That sounds grossly underpowered compared to the 300+ hp of the AI Vettes, but they are very slow through corners. Even so, it is required to equip the car with nitrous at New York Reverse due to the very long straights. After that however, the rest of the series can swept cleanly without the nitrous. 👍
 
First off, thanks to Dotini for yeoman's work on tuning the cars for N tires and posting the setups.

However, not seeing a setup for the MGF 180 point race at Motorland, I tried Dotini's posted Paris setup for the MGF. Gave it probably a dozen attempts, even managed to lose one race by only 0.03 seconds -- but I always seemed to run out of nitrous sometime near the end of the 3rd lap, and even if I was in the lead, I had a tough time defending my position.

Tried tweaking his setup with some of my own suspension and diff ideas, and promptly won the race on the first attempt, and even had 1 bar of nitrous left at the finish. The dozen races of practice with Dotini's setup certainly helped, and it was a very good starting point, just not quite perfect for my driving style.

Not proud of how I won it, but this is a max point Motorland race on N1 front tires; you know going in that it's not going to be pretty. :)

Anyway for posterity, and for anyone else who might still be going after the MGF Motorland race for 180 points, here's my setup...

Worn out MGF, old oil (obviously)
N1/N3 tires
Nitrous: 100
Racing brakes, controller: 1/8
Springs: 6.0/7.0
Ride Height: 104/104
Bound: 3/8
Rebound: 3/8
Camber: 3.5/2.5
Toe: 0/4
Stabilizers: 3/6
Transmission: Final 5.500, Auto 1
Triple clutch, racing flywheel
Driving aids: 0/0/1
Full custom LSD: 40/60/5
Ballast: 200 @ -50


EDIT: Also found that you can get 180 points while only carrying 196 ballast. The 4 units of ballast might not seem like much, but might have changed my 0.03 second loss into a win, you never know...

EDIT 2: Besides the dozen attempts at Motorland, I also did the Grand Valley, Suzuka, and Hong Kong races basically with Dotini's posted Paris setup (just lengthened the gearing a little bit for GV and Suzuka), so there was a bit more experience with the setup than just those dozen attempts...

EDIT 3 (last I hope :) ): Mine is a Motorland setup, NOT a Paris setup. Dotini's settings work great at Paris; just scored the 180 pointer at Paris using Dotini's setup (minus 4 units of ballast).
 
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jbrennen, many thanks for your generous remarks regarding my work. And kudos for advancing the ball further downfield!👍

The spirit of cooperation and sportsmanship in this forum is truly awesome, and makes me proud to be a member.


With highest regards,
Dotini
 
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Dotini
jbrennen, you are one of the few folks to have ever conquered the Hyundai's for maximum A-spec. I have studied your setup and race reports carefully. At the present time I lack either the basic skill, the best equipment or game version to win the event at Autumn Ring. Should you ever be motivated to revisit this event, you can rest assured I will be paying very close attention.
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Are you actually referring to the Copen races? I don't think I've ever tried the Hyundai races for max points, at least not yet...
 
Sometimes this feels like cheating using Dotini's settings. :)

Aston Martin Race at Autumn Ring goes down for 200 points with Dotini's unmodified settings.

It says at the GTVault tuning page to start with a V8 Vanquish on the pole. I suspect that should be a V8 Vantage, not a Vanquish. The Vanquish is a V12.
 
jbrennen
Sometimes this feels like cheating using Dotini's settings. :)

Aston Martin Race at Autumn Ring goes down for 200 points with Dotini's unmodified settings.

It says at the GTVault tuning page to start with a V8 Vanquish on the pole. I suspect that should be a V8 Vantage, not a Vanquish. The Vanquish is a V12.
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I can confirm that :) Thank you Dotini for the setup and jbrennen for the video. Both helped me to finally collect the 200 points at this race. In my first tries I always finished second or third. A change of tactics helped me to get it. I crash-turned corner #8, referring to AMG´s track map, in the first lap. With that I managed to be in second place after the first lap. By that time you usually are almost out of Nos and its difficult to catch more than one car in the second lap.
 
Just did my first max point Spitfire race, worn out Spitfire on N1s all around with max ballast... (At El Capitan, piece of cake race.)

Man, that Spitfire handles well on N1 tires. Then I got to thinking about it, and I realized that when the Spitfire was sold as a new car, it almost certainly came with N1 tires. Makes a lot of sense now. :)


EDIT: Yeah, went and looked it up. The Spitfire 1500 generally came with 155SRx13 tires, either Dunlop SP68 or Goodyear G800, fabric-belted radials. In road tests in 1970 and 1971 by Auto Motor und Sport Magazine and by Auto Zeitung Magazine, those tire models came in dead last in road tests... :ouch:
 
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I've redone some series for maximum points in these countries' manufacturers' races, too.


All three races in the Alfa Romeo GTA Cup were fairly easy to complete immaculately in the Giulia with no modifications except S1 tires, 200 ballast, and nitrous against four 147s. Unfortunately, nitrous is absolutely necessary here, because the 147s out-accelerate the Giulia even with it set at 100!


I attacked the Aston Martin series with its usual 200-point-earning car, the worn DB7 on N3s with 95 ballast against fields with two DB9s.

Fuji: I completed this race immaculately with drivetrain modifications and nitrous, and OLR cleanly with only the nitrous. With a better field - mine had a DB9 on pole - an immaculate race with only the nitrous is probably attainable.
Hong Kong: This race was winnable immaculately in a completely stock car, but I didn't have the patience to retry the race until I was able to slot in perfectly between the first and second place cars at the hairpin. As it was, I settled for a run in which I accidentally barged side-to-side into the leader at the hairpin, but was otherwise completely clean. Adding only nitrous made an immaculate race very easy.
Autumn Ring: The best that I could do here was a somewhat clean race with drivetrain parts and nitrous. The only "dirty" part was when one of the DB9s shoved into my side exiting a corner when I had already passed it, so an OLR clean race is possible, but I didn't have the patience.


I knew that the Hyundai races could be done more cleanly than I completed them the first time, so I retried them, this time without TCS. I kept all of the modifications that it had the first time through, and turning off the TCS showed just how good RJV's settings were - with N1/N2 tires, the car was truly lovely to drive at the slower tracks, and was as good as an FF with N1s can be at the faster courses.

Autumn Ring: I really wasn't able to improve this race's cleanliness, but I did find that it was quite easy to win - I did so within only a few attempts. I've become faster since I completed it the first time, but I think that deactivating the TCS helped, too.
Hong Kong: I loved driving the car around here with its expertly crafted setup, but cornering speeds and acceleration were simply too poor, so I couldn't improve on the cleanliness of my first attempt here, either.
Grand Valley East: I was able to do this somewhat cleanly, with the only blemish being a tap from behind in one corner, so an OLR clean race is probably possible. The task is made easier by the fact that the leader goes into the sand in the final turn of the last lap.
Tsukuba: Once again, I was unable to improve on the cleanliness of this race, as long-range ramming of the AI at the last hairpin on multiple laps remained the only way I could find to win. However, I found this race easier than before, as well.
Seoul: Finally, I made a definite improvement on my first 176-point sweep, as this race was immaculate. The leader's hard crash into a barrier made it easy.


Some time ago, I did several series fairly cleanly and I don't believe that I will redo them:

Having all nonpoint modifications, including nitrous, on the Elan made the Lotus Classics series an easy OLR clean sweep with qualifying.

A stock V8S on S2 tires with an oil change made the TVR series doable, but only somewhat cleanly; the car lacked the handling and I lacked the patience to avoid the AI cars entirely when passing, and I suffered some enormous impacts from behind from the Speed 12 at Fuji. Nitrous might or might not make OLR clean or immaculate races possible.

I won Trial Mountain and Seattle immaculately in the Crossfire, but I didn't remove any of the modifications, including the nitrous; Super Speedway remains impossible without riding AI cars or walls.

In the Saleen series, I retained the nonpoint modifications and was able to do Infineon immaculately with nitrous and El Capitan without it; also with nitrous, Special Stage Route 5 required wallriding at the first corner on every lap but was otherwise clean, La Sarthe required some first-lap shortcuts but was otherwise clean, and Suzuka was clean except for cutting the chicane on every lap.

Finally, I did the Cobra races in a stock Shelby Series 1 on S2 tires, and (if I recall correctly) Seattle, High-Speed Ring, and Trial Mountain were all OLR clean, while the short race lengths meant that I couldn't wait for an opportunity to pass the AI completely without contact at New York and Laguna Seca.


As I complete more of the British and American series, I will edit this post.

Edit: The Lotus Elise races were all easy to win immaculately (with qualifying) in a nitrous-equipped but otherwise stock Elise Type 72 with N3 tires and 200 ballast against a lineup without another Type 72.

Edit 2: The first four Mini races were fairly easy to win immaculately, and even at New York, I only suffered three very small taps to the rear bumper of my car; the race was otherwise clean. I used SirBerra's settings, except that I used S1/S1 tires (not S1/S2), a semi-racing exhaust, 150 ballast, and no driving aids.
 
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Austin343
I knew that the Hyundai races could be done more cleanly than I completed them the first time, so I retried them, this time without TCS. I kept all of the modifications that it had the first time through, and turning off the TCS showed just how good RJV's settings were - with N1/N2 tires, the car was truly lovely to drive at the slower tracks, and was as good as an FF with N1s can be at the faster courses.

Autumn Ring: I really wasn't able to improve this race's cleanliness, but I did find that it was quite easy to win - I did so within only a few attempts. I've become faster since I completed it the first time, but I think that deactivating the TCS helped, too.
Click to expand...
Austin, I'm very interested in your race here with the Hyundai at Autumn Ring. For me, it's the hardest in the game and I haven't been able to win it for maximum points. First, could I ask what equipment you are using for this, i.e., are you using a wheel, or a controller? Are you using NA NTSC, or PAL? Finally, could I ask you to re-publish the settings you used? I was a little puzzled by the format in which RJV originally published his setup. I'd be very grateful for any assistance you could provide, as I've run out of my own skill and imagination on this particular event.

With highest respect and admiration,
Dotini
 
I'm using a controller and the NTSC-NA version; since you use a wheel, it's quite understandable that this race is more difficult for you, because the nitrous is hard to use without interfering with steering, and trying to guess where to turn the steering wheel when you bounce off of other cars is far more difficult than with the "quick" lock-to-lock steering of the DS2.

RJV gave me most of my setup, but I did make a couple of alterations (in bold). Also, I, too, had to guess what some of his abbreviations meant, since they aren't what the game uses.

All nonpoint modifications
N1/N2 front/rear tires
Brake controller 1/8 front/rear
Nitrous at 70 (maximum)
ASM 0/0
TCS 0
Spring rates 10.5/8.5 front/rear
Ride height 83/83 front/rear
Damper bound 1/10 front/rear
Damper rebound 1/9 front/rear
Camber 2.9/1.8 front/rear
Toe 0/-4 front/rear
Stabilizers 7/3 front/rear
Transmission: I never bother using exact posted transmission settings; instead, I find the lowest autoset that does not hit the rev limiter in the highest gear. I have since adjusted what I originally had, so I can't provide numbers, but you should be able to test a bit to find that autoset.
Limited-slip differential 7/42/5 initial/acceleration/deceleration
198 ballast at +50 at all tracks

You can see that all three changes that I made work to combat understeer. I don't think that N3 rear tires are worth using because they fight any attempt to turn, but N1 rear tires would probably make the car too unstable when hit from behind or after visiting the grass. The ballast weight at the rear really aids turning, which outweighs the increased wheelspin that it causes. But I really do think that turning off the TCS makes the biggest difference of all; the handling is noticeably sharper, and cornering speeds increase correspondingly. Of course, you have to be careful with the nitrous, but when using it in a given gear causes wheelspin, "tapping" it will still give you the increased acceleration that it is supposed to provide because the tires can regain grip in between taps.

I hope all of that helps. Believe me that you can do this race - you just need to practice, and you should also find a lineup with a relatively slow lead car. Good luck. 👍
 
Thanks greatly for that information, Austin. My GT4 apparatus is currently disconnected and my time is currently devoted to racing kart preparation. But now that I'm armed with new information (and dangerous again), I'll set up and begin practicing again this weekend.

Respectfully yours,
Dotini
 

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