Penso's Garage - NEW Toyota 86 GT Seasonal Tune - 1:34.261

Think I have it all sorted out now. The Weight Reduction is WR3 now. Transmission is custom and the ratios are correct for the custom.

EDIT: Please note, the Ford Focus has been completely reworked and is now very aggressive thoughout the corners. A must have for any FF fan!!
Thanks Johnny! I can match your tune now (except that I have a few extra horses due to oil change).

Are you up for some feedback? I like where the tune is going, but had problems with understeer at low speeds and hard braking (compared with stock form not with other cars). I provide some additional details in my review here if you are interested.

Once again, thank you very much for the tune!
 
Hi JohnnyPenso,
thank you for the setup DINO good old car, I love 👍
putting weight reduction level 3, I can not get a 1115 KG
I am a 454 PP, I do not understand ?? :rolleyes:

EDIT: I just tested the new version of the Ford Focus and is much more aggressive, I love this version !!! congratulations :)
 
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these tunes are putting me on the podium time and time again when racing online. Thank you. In regards to the Ford weight reduction, you say use level 3. If i use level 3 the weight does not match. i did not use any weight reduction and i hit your number. ??
 
Thanks Johnny! I can match your tune now (except that I have a few extra horses due to oil change).

Are you up for some feedback? I like where the tune is going, but had problems with understeer at low speeds and hard braking (compared with stock form not with other cars). I provide some additional details in my review here if you are interested.

Once again, thank you very much for the tune!

I am always up for feedback. I will check your review in a minute. I could not get the RCZ to do what I wanted it to do that's for sure, which was to feel like the Focus. I'll come back and revisit it at some point. That stock downforce on the rear really bites, literally!!! I'll try and read your review before I head out thanks.
Hi JohnnyPenso,
thank you for the setup DINO good old car, I love 👍
putting weight reduction level 3, I can not get a 1115 KG
I am a 454 PP, I do not understand ?? :rolleyes:

EDIT: I just tested the new version of the Ford Focus and is much more aggressive, I love this version !!! congratulations :)

Mistake on my part, corrected now. Dino has no weight reduction. The Focus is the bomb, should surprise some people online with how quick it is. Can't wait to try it myself.

Which side is which? I thought Front would be on the left and Rear would be on the right like the game.
Again, dumb mistake on my part overwriting another tune and not correcting that. Sorry. Fixed now and yes, left is front and right is rear.
 
Johnny awesome revisions to the Ford ST. That car is now a beast. I have not found any weakness on it running on Rome. I have not run it on any other track yet but will report back on that later.

The Clio RS is another brilliant tune. Very solid and extremely fast at Brands. After running it on the 10 minute race at Brands it starts to over cook the front tires in the latter laps. I don't think it is due to the ballast addition to the front of the car. I don't believe for any fwd car this can get tuned out.
 
Johnny awesome revisions to the Ford ST. That car is now a beast. I have not found any weakness on it running on Rome. I have not run it on any other track yet but will report back on that later.

The Clio RS is another brilliant tune. Very solid and extremely fast at Brands. After running it on the 10 minute race at Brands it starts to over cook the front tires in the latter laps. I don't think it is due to the ballast addition to the front of the car. I don't believe for any fwd car this can get tuned out.

I had the same problem with the Clio and it seems to be worse than on the Focus and RCZ. The front end feels light with the G27 and I've tried several things but nothing seems to change the "cooking" problem. I'll probably do a few FR and MR's now but I'll keep the Clio in mind for revision.
 
Are damper extension and compression meant to be the way they're listed in the spreadsheet? I ask because they're listed in the opposite order in game
 
Are damper extension and compression meant to be the way they're listed in the spreadsheet? I ask because they're listed in the opposite order in game
I hope so or I'm going to believe that Johnny's genius is a simple fact a great science blunder ;)
 
Are damper extension and compression meant to be the way they're listed in the spreadsheet? I ask because they're listed in the opposite order in game
I hope so or I'm going to believe that Johnny's genius is a simple fact a great science blunder ;)
Well this is embarassing..:ill:. The items are indeed backwards as they are presented here which would explain a lot. However the tunes themselves were done correctly. I shall make corrections right away.
 
Hey man new member here. I've just been applying the 450pp tunes you've made for the focus, RCZ, Dino and Clio but when it comes to the transmission I'm not sure what max speed to set to nail the transmission?
 
Hey man new member here. I've just been applying the 450pp tunes you've made for the focus, RCZ, Dino and Clio but when it comes to the transmission I'm not sure what max speed to set to nail the transmission?
For those tunes I didn't use the transmission flip. Just buy custom transmission and tune the FGR to what's in the tune, then the individual ratios. I will update them soon with the transmission flip settings.
Coming Soon:

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Which side is which? I thought Front would be on the left and Rear would be on the right like the game.
Hiya Johnny, thank you for the tune. Is this meant just for online - and are the dynamics different? I never race on-line so don't know. I have just taken this car for a spin around Suzuka against some 500pp's and won. However, it understeered like crazy and was way, way loose to the point of basically tip toeing through spoon and could hardly keep it on track at the top of the straight. Almost like a cart it was so touchy. Is this how its meant to handle in-game? Also I wasn't sure from your tune sheet whether it was the intake tuning or the isometric manifold, so I got the intake. I don't think HP is the problem though as I was still able to reset the bottom and top of the Trannie and calibrate your gear settings correctly. I do however have to take it down to 89 on the limiter to get to 450pp (my bad, probably should not have changed the oil unless specified). Don't get me wrong, its a great car - but not the easiest drive, is that right? Cheers.:)

Sorry, just realised I have replied to someone's comment - mine is just a general question. Thanks.
 
Hiya Johnny, thank you for the tune. Is this meant just for online - and are the dynamics different? I never race on-line so don't know. I have just taken this car for a spin around Suzuka against some 500pp's and won. However, it understeered like crazy and was way, way loose to the point of basically tip toeing through spoon and could hardly keep it on track at the top of the straight. Almost like a cart it was so touchy. Is this how its meant to handle in-game? Also I wasn't sure from your tune sheet whether it was the intake tuning or the isometric manifold, so I got the intake. I don't think HP is the problem though as I was still able to reset the bottom and top of the Trannie and calibrate your gear settings correctly. I do however have to take it down to 89 on the limiter to get to 450pp (my bad, probably should not have changed the oil unless specified). Don't get me wrong, its a great car - but not the easiest drive, is that right? Cheers.:)

Sorry, just realised I have replied to someone's comment - mine is just a general question. Thanks.

I assume you're talking about the Dino? It is a great car and also not easy to drive at all. Weight shift forward and back is something you have to pay attention to. Braking and turning is difficult and likely to cause you to lose the back end. You have to go from track to track and figure out the corner entry speeds and braking points and work with what you get, but once you work it out it will be extremely fast. Took it to Deep Forest last night and it was 1 second faster than my BRZ and 2 seconds faster than the Focus but it took me several laps to figure out how to get it around.

Your approach has to be to get the car set up for the right entry speed and then keep it balanced around the corner. Making big corrections big corner will cause you to lose control. Braking mid-corner will cause spins. Riding inside curbs will cause a loss of control quite often. It may not be suited to all tracks you'll have to experiment and see what works for you. If the car was a couple of seconds off the pace it wouldn't be quite so rewarding, but it's so fast you just have to master it.

I am finding the MR's much more difficult to drive and tune this time around. In GT5 you could easily tune out the worst tendencies and make them easy to drive, in GT6 using the same methods, most of those tendencies remain. I have a feeling it will stay that way and so we're left with adjusting our driving style to accomodate them, while trying to tune in some consistency.

Where exactly was it understeering? I can't get it to understeer at all.:lol: I'd like to try that for myself and see what happens. And yes, everything I tune is tuned online.
 
I assume you're talking about the Dino? It is a great car and also not easy to drive at all. Weight shift forward and back is something you have to pay attention to. Braking and turning is difficult and likely to cause you to lose the back end. You have to go from track to track and figure out the corner entry speeds and braking points and work with what you get, but once you work it out it will be extremely fast. Took it to Deep Forest last night and it was 1 second faster than my BRZ and 2 seconds faster than the Focus but it took me several laps to figure out how to get it around.

Your approach has to be to get the car set up for the right entry speed and then keep it balanced around the corner. Making big corrections big corner will cause you to lose control. Braking mid-corner will cause spins. Riding inside curbs will cause a loss of control quite often. It may not be suited to all tracks you'll have to experiment and see what works for you. If the car was a couple of seconds off the pace it wouldn't be quite so rewarding, but it's so fast you just have to master it.

I am finding the MR's much more difficult to drive and tune this time around. In GT5 you could easily tune out the worst tendencies and make them easy to drive, in GT6 using the same methods, most of those tendencies remain. I have a feeling it will stay that way and so we're left with adjusting our driving style to accomodate them, while trying to tune in some consistency.

Where exactly was it understeering? I can't get it to understeer at all.:lol: I'd like to try that for myself and see what happens. And yes, everything I tune is tuned online.
Thank you for the prompt and comprehensive response. You are right, like most MR cars it takes a little getting used to. The right entry speed into the corner is the key thing and resist meshing it at any time. I really should not try out new tunes after 11.00pm with the flu! Great tune, look forward to more. BTW in reference to my OP, is there a difference in the way the cars perform/react in normal gameplay if they have been tuned for online? Thanks again for all your help, guys like you are a definite asset! :)
 
JP,I went to Motegi oval last night to see if the camber was screwed up and found it is.Type S-Zero '97 that I had tuned with 2.5-.8 camber understeered like a bus.Setting it to 0-0 and the entire balance changed from RF to RR.The car would roll over like a dirt car onto the RR tire and I could drift turn 4 with ease.I then added 1.0 (0 front) to rear and it turned into the skidpad control car and turn 1 was now easy to drift.Next run was 1.0 F 0 R and it was back to snow plow mode.

Swapping the toe from +.20 to -.20 seems to work like it should so atleast they got that part right.I dont think the game is translating that the cars pitch is changing and the tires are never rolling under so adding any camber is reducing the contact patch everywhere.

You might want to test some of your FF cars on the short oval and add some rear camber to help them rotate.
 
Johnny, do you take requests? A new, old school car I'm having a very hard time controlling is the 1970 Plymouth AAR Cuda. Can't get it to turn, nor exit the corners, even with 1/2 throttle.
Any help would be great.
 
JP,I went to Motegi oval last night to see if the camber was screwed up and found it is.Type S-Zero '97 that I had tuned with 2.5-.8 camber understeered like a bus.Setting it to 0-0 and the entire balance changed from RF to RR.The car would roll over like a dirt car onto the RR tire and I could drift turn 4 with ease.I then added 1.0 (0 front) to rear and it turned into the skidpad control car and turn 1 was now easy to drift.Next run was 1.0 F 0 R and it was back to snow plow mode.

Swapping the toe from +.20 to -.20 seems to work like it should so atleast they got that part right.I dont think the game is translating that the cars pitch is changing and the tires are never rolling under so adding any camber is reducing the contact patch everywhere.

You might want to test some of your FF cars on the short oval and add some rear camber to help them rotate.

Thanks a lot for the info. I'll revisit all of this when I get back after this week is over. My dilemma is, do I start tuning around the mistakes and risk them getting patched, making all the tunes obsolete when the fix camber? What else will they fix/adjust in the mean time. PD certainly doesn't make things easy..👎

hi johnny , about your Dino , don t understand DF 25 . In Body section . The car had a wing ? Thanks for your tunes .

Sorry Vince, there is no downforce. I've been running on fumes here the last week and making mistakes left right and centre with my tunes. Time to slow it down a bit I think until things calm down at work. Sorry for the inconvenience.

Johnny, do you take requests? A new, old school car I'm having a very hard time controlling is the 1970 Plymouth AAR Cuda. Can't get it to turn, nor exit the corners, even with 1/2 throttle.
Any help would be great.

I've been looking at a few muscle cars. I've tuned the TransAm into a decent 450PP racer. I'll look at other muscle cars in the new year this could be on the list.
 
Hi, JP, I saw some post about camber several days ago, and remembered that my J's Racing has some big camber and still handled very well. I also posted this :

I am testing my Wangan Midnight replica - Legendary FC soon to be released on my replica tuning garage, full power at close to 500HP - still WIP and stock weight, I experimented with lowest spring rate front and back, lowest damper compression front and back, slightly higher extension, weakest ARB, more than 3 degree front camber and more than 2 rear camber. Driving at SSR7, surprisingly, it handled very well, it grip so good under braking on the first left turn ( up hill ramp ). This was on comfort soft ( street tire ) and has racing brakes kit. I can't believe how late I can brake on the 1st turn :D Wow, from over 285 kmh to just under 160 kmh in just over a second or maybe 2 :eek: It performed well on the next hairpin, the right down ramp exit, the high speed esses that leads to the 1st tunnel, the hairpin before the 2nd tunnel - all of them was smooth and with no drama. I love my FC3S. I looked at replay, and paused when the car is turning or braking hard into a corner, I can see the soft suspension allows the outside wheel camber to work it's magic :)

If you want to test, simply buy FC3S, fit custom suspension, set weakest spring all around, weakest arb, high camber, upgrade the power, and drive it hard- compare with zero camber all around :) The usual place for me to test car balance is at Big Willow - the 2nd corner long right curve is a great spot for throttle steer and fine tuning handling balance ( LSD, ARB, camber and toe )
 
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PD has made a conscious effort to make the older cars more competitive than ever in my opinion. Given the power to weight of this car it should not be competitive at all and yet it's right in the mix in terms of lap times and handling. Good turn in, solid and stable cornering are hallmarks of this car. Errors are perhaps the least punitive in any car I've tested so far urging you to push and push this car to find it's limits. It's only real weakness is top end, punished in HP by PD's over reliance on torque in the PP calculation. This car is a must have for any 450PP racer that loves American Muscle.
Take note of the early shiftpoint. This car runs out of steam above 5000 rpm pretty quickly so don't be taking it to the redline.
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Fastest 450PP car to date by more than a full second at Bathurst. Both agile and quick in a straight line it'll be tough to beat online. It's still an MR and so you have to be careful to get entry speeds right, brake mostly in a straightline at first etc. but when you get into a rythmn with this car it's something special. Well done PD:tup:👍

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Revised Suspension And LSD Settings 12/28/2013

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Hi Johnny. Trying to run a test on your tune, but can't get to your transmission settings. Is it possible that they got corrupted when you updated the tune? Your help would be greatly appreciated!
 
Hi Johnny. Trying to run a test on your tune, but can't get to your transmission settings. Is it possible that they got corrupted when you updated the tune? Your help would be greatly appreciated!
Did you follow this method?

Transmission Tuning Method
1 - Set Top Speed to Minimum or stated value in tune.
2 - Set Final Gear Ratio.
3 - Set individual gears.

You'll find most of my transmissions will be set up to be long enough for Bathurst and the full Nurb. Most will be set up for first gear launch as well. For shorter tracks you may benefit by having a larger FGR and lower top speed. Unfortunately as of v1.02 we can't copy and paste settings so you'll have to manually re-enter full tunes to take advantage of multiple tuning sheets.

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Try the Trans Am at some point...loving the muscle cars so far!!
 
I thought I did, here is what I am seeing. Left the HP/PP info in the pic so you could see it matches the tune. This is weird, I wonder what I am doing wrong.

Without a reset to stock button nothing seems to work as it did in GT5. If you don't start from scratch and go in the right order, you get completely different settings. Go to Set B or C and try it from scratch in the proper order and it will work. When you go to B or C take note of the original FGR as well, then reset sheet A to that FGR and original Top Speed and you might be able to do it then on sheet A.
 
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This is a fantastic car no doubt about it. Point it somewhere and it goes. Get a little out of shape and it wraps you up in a blanket and pushes you back onto the racing line. I can drive cars like this for hours because they work anywhere, on any track under just about any condition. Thanks PD. That 7:50 'Ring time compares favourably with offline times from GT5 and I just noticed when putting this tune up, I forgot to add in the drivetrain upgrades on the Sheet B version I am using here, so in the next couple of days I'll take another crack at it and it'll be into the 7:40's for sure.
EDIT: Not as much help as I hoped for, but adding the drivetrain upgrades got me to 7:49.7


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