POLL: Thrustmaster T300RS/GTE Reliability Poll

[Jump_Ace]

I had to change my vote on this. Once GTS came out I've had a ton of pause menu glitches and full on wheel disconnects (of course always when I run in sport mode). This was a great wheel for GT6, but I can't stand this thing in GTS


Jerome

 

[cjr3559]

Could have a potential problem. Recently the cooling fan has not turned on, nor will it turn on in the ‘forced’ mode. The wheel itself seems to work fine, however it feels like it’s running with less strength than before. Meanwhile I e-mailed TM support and they adivised to send them some test results.

Here’s the dilemma:

I’ve got a 2 year warrant from my retailer, so thinking about continuing to use it and possibly letting it die to simply exchange it for another.

OR:

Go through the TM process and send them the information and see what they recommend. The TM process seems to be an ordeal dismantling it only to have them tell me to take it back to the store.

All I know is I want to keep using it, so what does the community think?

Well, just like that the fan is working again and the full FFB is back. Did some experiments and found that plugging the USB directly into the console made it work. I originally had it plugged into a 5-port PS3 USB hub, so maybe that was the issue. Who knows. Everything was fine for the past 3-4 months since I got the wheel, so maybe the plug situation finally reared it’s ugly head.

 

[foxymop]

I would love to know the sales number on the ts-pc as it's price is high as ****.

I would like to see some stuff from Logitech, but I don't believe that will ever happen. They made zero efforts from g27 to g29.

 

[PocketZeven]

I would love to know the sales number on the ts-pc as it's price is high as ****.

I would like to see some stuff from Logitech, but I don't believe that will ever happen. They made zero efforts from g27 to g29.

Difficult to say. They decided to leave the console market a few years ago, but suddenly decided to go back on their decision. I do suspect that they are developing a new wheel, seeing they are still involved in sponsoring e-sport teams and events. It would be good if they got back in the wheel game with something fresh. The G27 and DFGT are still legendary among the older simracers.

 

[DGTR]

Update. After 2 years ownership the only problem I had was a broken paddle shifter. Fixed it the same day I broke it. Aside from that the wheel runs as if it did right out of the box.

 

[Daz555]

Could have a potential problem. Recently the cooling fan has not turned on, nor will it turn on in the ‘forced’ mode. The wheel itself seems to work fine, however it feels like it’s running with less strength than before. Meanwhile I e-mailed TM support and they adivised to send them some test results.

Here’s the dilemma:

I’ve got a 2 year warrant from my retailer, so thinking about continuing to use it and possibly letting it die to simply exchange it for another.

OR:

Go through the TM process and send them the information and see what they recommend. The TM process seems to be an ordeal dismantling it only to have them tell me to take it back to the store.

All I know is I want to keep using it, so what does the community think?

The wheel will overheat without the fan and this causes it to go into a failsafe low power mode which is why you feel the FFB level drop away.

The fan has failed because it is a $1 piece of junk. I replaced mine a few months back - which technically voids your warranty. I should be able to put the original fan back if I need to return the wheel without leaving any evidence behind. Thrustmaster do put a kind of threadlock over all thier nuts and bolts to prevent tampering but my wheel does not have any - which tells you what you need to know about TM build quality. The lack of threadlock/warrantly paint is probably what caused my fan to work loose in the first place and the vibrations probably added to its demise.

 

[ICEMAN68]

Hello,
Recently, 3 months now, got a t300rs GT. Worked great. I decide to try the brake mod but didn’t like it very much, so I took it off. A few days went by after that, then I went on to play and noticed I was missing corners often and thought I had to get used to no brake mod. It was worse than I thought, brake not responding at all!! GONE.... gas and clutch are intact. Started the Thrustmaster process by e-mail but was slow so I called and talked to a rep. She was very nice and told me what to do, same as anyone else with problems. So I did and shipped it to them. The whole process took 8 working days!! Pretty good. Got it back on the last day of esports f1 qualifying event, great.
Bzzz, wrong, try again.... all that and STILL no brake!!!!!!!!!!!! Already contacted and was asked to update firmware before another RMA!!!!! But in my experience, if something is damaged, an update will not fix it. Has anybody had a similar problem and if so, what was done or else, any suggestion on what might be happening. Got confirmation that ( like I thought) potentiometer was replaced. Remember, gas and clutch are still working fine?????
Thank you for any help

 

[super_gt]

Some people can find this useful.

 

[Napalm_LT]

I think I have solved overheating problem. Added USB fan to extract hot air from the base and seams now everything is fine. I am racing in league where we have 20 min. qually and 30 min. race. My wheel was loosing pover every time, sometimes in the end of race and sometimes in the begining (depends on track/car combo), but yesterday it was strong after 2 hours of playing with quite high FFB settings. I used only half power of fan (fan has regulator) but base was almost cold.

This mod isn't nice esthetically, but it is cheap (spend less than 20 USD), simple to do (spend 2 hours), didn't woid warranty and it WORKS. Of course more testing is needed.

Used parts: Thermaltake USB fun, wooden "fingers" from furniture and high quality scotch tape. I was suprised fun is very hard mounted.

 

[Romeo17]

After reading pretty much every single post here,i'm starting to think that maybe i shouldn't go with the t300. Anyone here that can tell me if all the problems have been fixed as of this year.I really do not want to have my wheel break within a month,especially when it costs north of half a grand in my country.

 

[Outspacer]

After reading pretty much every single post here,i'm starting to think that maybe i shouldn't go with the t300. Anyone here that can tell me if all the problems have been fixed as of this year.I really do not want to have my wheel break within a month,especially when it costs north of half a grand in my country.

Well it's a risk, but don't forget that people that are happy with it are much less likely to look for and post on a thread like this! How easy would it be for warranty replacement in your country?

I've had mine for a while now and put a good number of hours on it without seeing any issue of FFB fading. I did get some random button presses in AC on PS4 for a while, but that seems to have stopped happening - either by a firmware update or because I'm now playing on PC.

 

[Romeo17]

I play on the pc myself.I live in singapore where sim racing isn't really popular and i doubt warranty replacement would be easy.No official TM stores here so i presume to get one i need to ship it off to somewhere else.Im also going to be getting my wheel off of amazon,new.

 

[Outspacer]

I play on the pc myself.I live in singapore where sim racing isn't really popular and i doubt warranty replacement would be easy.No official TM stores here so i presume to get one i need to ship it off to somewhere else.Im also going to be getting my wheel off of amazon,new.

That's a difficult situation, for sure. But what are the choices other than take a gamble? G29 might be more reliable, but a notable number of people have had an issue with the wires between base and wheel breaking (just search for G29 fails to calibrate). Spending more on a better wheel might help, but I doubt you'd get rock solid reliability unless you spent quite a lot more. Buying in Thailand seems to cost a lot more than even Amazon and I'm not sure whether that actually gets you decent support - but even if it did you'd be paying a lot for it.

I'm really not sure what I would do in that situation Perhaps look for a secondhand T300 or T500 wheel from someone upgrading?

 

[KookiBirb]

Thankfully, my hardware issue is not as atrocious in comparison to most users here. My T300 is just slightly off centered regardless if it has been calibrated or not. It's not too much of a bothersome for me but I feel like this is my fault since for some stupid reason, I hella tend to somewhat pull back on the steering wheel whenever I am threshold braking really hard for some odd reason lmao.

 

[Awong124]

Thankfully, my hardware issue is not as atrocious in comparison to most users here. My T300 is just slightly off centered regardless if it has been calibrated or not. It's not too much of a bothersome for me but I feel like this is my fault since for some stupid reason, I hella tend to somewhat pull back on the steering wheel whenever I am threshold braking really hard for some odd reason lmao.

There is a procedure to reset the center. I've done it myself. I don't remember how to do it exactly, but you can probably Google it. It just involves pressing a few buttons.

 

[Romeo17]

That's a difficult situation, for sure. But what are the choices other than take a gamble? G29 might be more reliable, but a notable number of people have had an issue with the wires between base and wheel breaking (just search for G29 fails to calibrate). Spending more on a better wheel might help, but I doubt you'd get rock solid reliability unless you spent quite a lot more. Buying in Thailand seems to cost a lot more than even Amazon and I'm not sure whether that actually gets you decent support - but even if it did you'd be paying a lot for it.

I'm really not sure what I would do in that situation Perhaps look for a secondhand T300 or T500 wheel from someone upgrading?

well,i have decided to take the gamble and have ordered it.T500 locally cost about 888 SGD,bundled with ps4 grand turismo.G29 cost about 500 which is the same,slightly less,then the t300.i decided to go for amazon,however,because i can send it back if it breakes,there is no local warranty here.it arrives tommorow 8pm and will be at my door friday.Lets see if it lasts 5 minutes.What sucks,though,is that i may need to get a step down power converter before i can use it.

 

[Jeka_djonik]

Hello, dear children. I was very interested in reading your topic!
I just looked in here for the pedal fanathek and, thank God, I changed my mind to buy them. But this is not what I wanted to say.
I have a 2 year experience with the Thrustmaster T300GTE, I did not have any problems with the wheel, but I immediately dismantled the pedals, I installed the new springs in them tougher to improve the brakes and more elastic gas. Here a week ago I cracked my braking leg, if it turned out that I will show you the photo. And now I bought the pedals g27. I'm very pleased with how they are made, and also made a brake upgrade that would not block the wheels in a car where there is no abs. In general, I'm pleased with the steering wheel that I have from a friend, also changed the bearings, he was a little unlucky, maybe the party is bad, but in Russia many swear on the rudders. But I can not say with certainty that the bad steering wheel T300, the fans are also not perfect
I play in the Assetto Championship for 3 hours of the race, and on the weekends I train the tracks for 4-5 hours. For 2 years I personally was pleased with the T300. I am attentive to things and try to take what I have. Thank you, if you read me
I sealed it all with epoxy resin and rewound electric tape, 2 weeks ago I went through some time. OK

 

[super_gt]

Привет, дорогие ребята. Я очень интересовался чтением вашей темы!
Я просто заглянул сюда для педалей фанатека и, слава богу, я передумал покупать их. Но это не то, что я хотел сказать.
У меня 2-летний опыт Thrustmaster T300GTE, у меня не было никаких проблем с колесом, но я сразу же разобрал педали, я установил новые пружины в них более жесткими для улучшения тормозов и более эластичного газа. Здесь неделю назад я взломал тормозную ногу, если оказалось, что я покажу вам фотографию. И теперь я купил педали g27. Я очень доволен, как они сделаны, а также сделал модернизацию тормоза, которая не блокировала бы колеса на автомобиле, где нет абс. В общем, я доволен рулевым колесом, который у меня есть у друга, тоже изменил подшипники, ему было немного не повезло, может быть, вечеринка плохая, но в России многие ругаются по рулям. Но я не могу с уверенностью сказать, что плохие рули T300, фанаты тоже не идеальны
Я играю на Чемпионате Assetto в течение 3 часов гонки, а по выходным дням я тренирую треки в течение 4-5 часов. В течение 2 лет я лично был доволен T300. Я внимательно отношусь к вещам и пытаюсь взять то, что у меня есть. Спасибо, если вы прочитаете меня
Я запечатал все это с помощью эпоксидной смолы и перемотался электрической лентой, уже 2 недели назад я прошел через некоторое время. ок

Hello and welcome to GT Planet!
Your post is very interesting to read,but there is one problem:

By using these forums, you agree to the following:

• You will post all messages in English.

 

[Romeo17]

well ****.idk if im allowed to swear but i just got my wheel,havent plugged it in(need a power coverter) but im feeling the wheel and paddle shifters sound weird on one side.one is a healthy click and the other sounds like something crispy getting crunched.appears i will have to vote yes.the gamble ha snot paid off.

 

[Outspacer]

well ****.idk if im allowed to swear but i just got my wheel,havent plugged it in(need a power coverter) but im feeling the wheel and paddle shifters sound weird on one side.one is a healthy click and the other sounds like something crispy getting crunched.appears i will have to vote yes.the gamble ha snot paid off.

Aw crap How bad does it sound? Does it rattle if you shake the rim, like a loose bit of plastic has broken inside? If not, taking the rim apart and rotating the spring might help - I had a rim with a similar issue and that fixed it.

 

[Romeo17]

the weird thing is,after clicking it in quick succession,the crunching sound has not occurred since.However,it now sounds off and has the clicking feel gone.It also feels like less force is needed to activate the shift.Not sure if a good thing or bad thing.

 

[Outspacer]

the weird thing is,after clicking it in quick succession,the crunching sound has not occurred since.However,it now sounds off and has the clicking feel gone.It also feels like less force is needed to activate the shift.Not sure if a good thing or bad thing.

That's sounding more like mine was, I think, so possibly a good thing - as long as it registers a press, turning the spring should help. Best to wait and test that before taking it apart, of course, if you're getting the power converter.

 

[super_gt]

well ****.idk if im allowed to swear but i just got my wheel,havent plugged it in(need a power coverter) but im feeling the wheel and paddle shifters sound weird on one side.one is a healthy click and the other sounds like something crispy getting crunched.appears i will have to vote yes.the gamble ha snot paid off.

the weird thing is,after clicking it in quick succession,the crunching sound has not occurred since.However,it now sounds off and has the clicking feel gone.It also feels like less force is needed to activate the shift.Not sure if a good thing or bad thing.

Do not worry, here's one excellent magnetic paddle shift mod which you can do:
Comparison video:




How to do it video:




And you can even do it with four magnets so you can adjust the pressure:

 

[Romeo17]

That's sounding more like mine was, I think, so possibly a good thing - as long as it registers a press, turning the spring should help. Best to wait and test that before taking it apart, of course, if you're getting the power converter.

I think it registers a press.Its still usable,from the sounds of it.We will see when i actually get to use it.currently,finding a 300watt and above power converter step down is proving to be quite the challenge.So far only have found one power converter,but its 80watts.i messaged thrustmaster support and they were incredibly rude about it as well.Told me to get a official TM power cable for 10 euro with 2 options of shipping,which are total scams.first option of shipping is 15 euros and the second option is 40 euros.The difference is 2-3 days and It takes 3 weeks to ship from france.When asked about power converters,they said,"It is possible to damage the wheel and if you use a power convertor, the warranty will be voided."Of course,they could be lying,because i said in an email before "Will using a power converter 220-110 break the wheel?if so,I might consider the 3 weeks wait."Not sure what would be my next move.Any Tips?

 

[Romeo17]

Do not worry, here's one excellent magnetic paddle shift mod which you can do:
Comparison video:




How to do it video:




And you can even do it with four magnets so you can adjust the pressure:

Well,won't that void the warranty?Besides,I've tried,one of the 'behind the paddle shifter' screws wont come out despite using all my strength.

 

[super_gt]

Well,won't that void the warranty?Besides,I've tried,one of the 'behind the paddle shifter' screws wont come out despite using all my strength.

If you worry about the warranty you can do this mod without disassemble steering wheel and remove the springs.

 

[Outspacer]

I think it registers a press.Its still usable,from the sounds of it.We will see when i actually get to use it.currently,finding a 300watt and above power converter step down is proving to be quite the challenge.So far only have found one power converter,but its 80watts.i messaged thrustmaster support and they were incredibly rude about it as well.Told me to get a official TM power cable for 10 euro with 2 options of shipping,which are total scams.first option of shipping is 15 euros and the second option is 40 euros.The difference is 2-3 days and It takes 3 weeks to ship from france.When asked about power converters,they said,"It is possible to damage the wheel and if you use a power convertor, the warranty will be voided."Of course,they could be lying,because i said in an email before "Will using a power converter 220-110 break the wheel?if so,I might consider the 3 weeks wait."Not sure what would be my next move.Any Tips?

The power cable might be the way to go actually, it would still be cheaper than a voltage converter however bad the postage cost tastes. FWIW they charge over $10 to ship a small adapter just from France to the UK! I guess they use different combinations of the 4 pins on the wheel end to account for 110V vs 220-240V - my UK (240V) cable only connects to two of the pins (left and right).

 

[asteroulis]

the weird thing is,after clicking it in quick succession,the crunching sound has not occurred since.However,it now sounds off and has the clicking feel gone.It also feels like less force is needed to activate the shift.Not sure if a good thing or bad thing.

To me it seems that the spring that is for the registration of the switch has fallen off position. You have to open it and fix it. If you dont it might lead to a short circuit eventually, and even with the magnet mod it is utilised.

Well,won't that void the warranty?Besides,I've tried,one of the 'behind the paddle shifter' screws wont come out despite using all my strength.

There should be some mild thread locker but not one that restraints you from unscrewing them. I don't think it would void warranty, and it's TOTALLY worth it.

The power cable might be the way to go actually, it would still be cheaper than a voltage converter however bad the postage cost tastes. FWIW they charge over $10 to ship a small adapter just from France to the UK! I guess they use different combinations of the 4 pins on the wheel end to account for 110V vs 220-240V - my UK (240V) cable only connects to two of the pins (left and right).

Yes, the cable uses different pins for 220v and 110v.
Get the right one.

 

[Romeo17]

The power cable might be the way to go actually, it would still be cheaper than a voltage converter however bad the postage cost tastes. FWIW they charge over $10 to ship a small adapter just from France to the UK! I guess they use different combinations of the 4 pins on the wheel end to account for 110V vs 220-240V - my UK (240V) cable only connects to two of the pins (left and right).

I would have gone for it in a heartbeat except it would costs just about the same as a power converter and takes 3 weeks.In 3 weeks,the holidays(in my country) would be over and I would be back to using it once a week which was what I was trying to avoid.Im clueless as to why the power converter would void the ****ing warranty.

 

[Romeo17]

To me it seems that the spring that is for the registration of the switch has fallen off position. You have to open it and fix it. If you dont it might lead to a short circuit eventually, and even with the magnet mod it is utilised.

There should be some mild thread locker but not one that restraints you from unscrewing them. I don't think it would void warranty, and it's TOTALLY worth it.


Yes, the cable uses different pins for 220v and 110v.
Get the right one.

Will it really lead to a short circuit? Jeez.Can't It just work from the goddamned factory.Besides,I have absolutely no experience with all that stuff and was actually hoping that by getting this wheel,all I had to do was to get the converter,download firmware, do a little bit of settings and have it work. No going back now though.I might consider sending it back if matters worsen.

I'm pretty sure it voids the warranty. According to the manual booklet,"Do not open up the steering wheel:there are no user-serviceable parts inside.Any repairs must be carried out by the manufacturer."Regarding the screw,I just can't seem to get it out,it just appears to be stuck.

Third,Greedmaster sells the correct cable for 10 euros with scam shipping that takes about 3 years to arrive,yet the shipping cost more then the damned cable. I mean,15 euro for 3+ weeks delivery and 40 euro for it to arrive 3 days early?

EDIT:Also the support was really rude and didn't not want to give a single ****.And the only payment option is PayPal.If not,they void your warranty because their products ain't reliable and everyone would kill for warranty.

I really was looking forward to sim-racing but it's not a great start :/