Why would you exclude the A4 1.8T? In 2001 it had just as much power (170hp) as that ten-zillion-mile BMW you've got up there and it was probably quite a bit quicker.
I hate the A4 1.8T with a passion. They feel slow and anemic to me. Just my opinion.
Good looking car, however I called that car lot and they use banks for their financing--which = me not getting approved.
Here is a 2000 A6 2.7T pushing your turbo mileage limit (76k) but it's only $9000.
Saw that car yesterday. These guys won't finance unless you put $1,000 down and pay every week. I can't get into THAT kind of deal.
No Lincolns? The LS is crying itself to sleep.
The LS is definately on my list, but I ONLY want a black on black V8 or white on tan V8. Both of which are hard to find in my price range with less than 80k miles.
Especially since you are considering a base model (read anemic), stupidly high mileage (read mechanical/electrical failures) and automatic (read even slower than it normally would be) BMW. For 10 grand that BMW better piss excellence instead of emissions.
I understand that it isn't an M3. This car fit all of my criteria. I could care less if its 0-60 in 10 seconds honestly, my goal is to pay the next car off so I can start my Camaro project. Then when the Camaro is done fix up the second car. In the BMW's case interchange M3 bits, along with paying my arm and leg for a CSL drivetrain.
Nah, JCE's much more responsible now - he had this same problem in the last car he got into as well but he's making decent money now and he's not going to let that happen again. Obviously his credit score doesn't reflect this change of heart and lifestyle, but it will soon. Don't be so quick to judge!
Appreciate the kind words. My financial situation has just changed so I'm able to address my transportation issue. My Camaro does have an assload of miles and still runs great for a car w/240k miles but I really need something a BIT more reliable incase I get transferred to a new location farther away.
I would go for a BMW but not that particular one. How about this one, similar but lower miles an seems in better condition.
http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.j...ed=&search_lang=&model=&color=&ref=srl#vdptop
I like the 323 with the sport package, infact I like ANY BMW with the sport package. 👍
That dealer is smoking crack if he thinks that is a $9,800 car.
If he fixed the front bumper (at a BMW authorized body shop), it MIGHT be worth around $8,500. If the car is as clean as it looks in the pics, $8,900. Tops. Don't even consider it if he doesn't fix the bumper.
My problem is most car lots won't budge on BMW, Mercedes, or Audi pricing because SOMEONE will pay the asking price just BECAUSE they are a BMW/Merc/Audi. That is to my disadvantage.
Duke is right about the suspension. It's not a BMW specific thing, but any car with that kind of mileage will need all the rubber in the suspension refreshed, and new springs and shocks. It's more important to DO in a BMW, because if you buy one, I assume you might care if it handled worth a damn. Otherwise, just buy a 20 year old Cadillac and float along to your heart's content.
Unless you want to refresh the suspension, I advise against this particular car if you care about the driving experience. At that age, all the bits that make a BMW great to drive is old and tired and you will wonder what the fuss is all about.
Refreshing the suspension (everything Duke listed) will run into 4 digits just for parts alone. IMO, the best thing to do with a car like this is to go aftermarket, instead of OEM. If you have to get OEM parts, get 330 ZHP bits instead of 323 peices. They're 95% interchangeable. You should also reinforce the subframe and RSM, since everything is apart anyway.
Prices off the top of my head, here's a quick parts breakdown.
OEM control arms ~$150/side
OEM tierods ~$35/side
Rear subframe bushing ~$30
UUC RSM ~$60/kit
UUC trailing arm bushing/kit ~$60
TMS front/rear subframe reinforcement kit ~$200
H&R/Bilstein street/sport kit (all 4 corners) ~$800
OEM motor/tranny mounts $???
Assuming a tech who is familiar with E46s, figure around 4-6 hours to do the work @ $100/hour. That's just a guesstimate on my part.. I don't have a shop manual and have never done it before. Add a 4 wheel alignment after its done. ~$100.
The powertrain is strong in that car. You should have no troubles any time soon. At that mileage, the AT would be the weak spot so if you have any trouble, that's where I would expect it.
Now you might be looking at this list thinking BMWs are crazy or something. Fact is, there isn't a sports car/sedan out there that doesn't need this type of work done at this high a mileage --if you want the car to drive and handle the way it did from the factory (or better).
Bottom line is it would be an investment to get this car to where it should be. But the aftermarket is very strong for the E46 and when you were done, you could have a car that will put a lot of smiles on your face.
If the idea of getting a BMW interests you, I suggest an E36 M3 (insurance is not as bad as you think), which you can buy all day long for under 10k. You can also probably find a 328i for the same price he is asking on this 323.
Personally, I wouldn't put this kind of money into a 323 this old unless I was building a track car. I've been thinking about getting an old E36 for just that type of work, though.
M
Having a choice I'd prefer an E46 over an E36. E46's are my favorite 3-series. If I ever got a E46 coupe I'd turn it into a CSL clone once paid for.
Oh, never thought about an Outback. *adds to list* Those are awsome cars, I really like them. But, this one is at a regular car dealer and it has 85k miles which is too much for a turbo for me to want to own. Unless I got absolute proof that the previous owner had the turbo rebuilt.
My salary more than doubled a few months ago when I took my current job. Take my word: when you have more money, you just find more pointless crap to buy with it. When people come into money, their financial responsibility gets worse, not better. I'm traditionally a saver, but in the last two months, I've spent a ridiculous amount on toys. I'd like nothing more than to grab my checkbook and head to the Audi or BMW dealer. The temptation is unbearable. Even though I could afford the payments, insurance, and upkeep, it would be an incredibly foolish thing to do at this point in my life (especially since I just bought a new car in December). If I made another huge purchase, and the rug were pulled out from beneath me tomorrow, I'd be 🤬. In a couple years, I'll have settled in, and will be able to make money decisions with better perspective.
I had a turn of bad luck earlier this year in terms of a car payment. The difference between then and now is job stability. My dad's a sales manager at a Ford dealer and they're already talking about promoting me again (for the second time) at the car wash to GM when the new store opens. I will have enough income to pay off a used $5000-10000 car in a year (or less). I'm also quite aware of things such as insurance, upkeep, and the like. This is where I feel that I have an advantage. I not only know what my limits are financially but I am an auto mechanic who knows other master auto mechanics. And as a bonus, I do have a running car. So if the one I buy craps out on me I do have emergency transportation.
Trust me if I wasn't thinking completely with my brain I'd go out and get something like a WS6 Trans-Am or a CLK430--or something with high insurance.
Alas Kyle as much as I like you and adore your perspective on these and all issues, you aren't JCE. He really may have this mapped out better than you think, and he may be more financially responsible than you think he is. I truly understand your point, but in these cases it's probably best to let him figure these things out on his own. Presumably he would be wise enough not to overcommit at this point in his life particularly after the prior reposession.
Again, thanks for the kind words. I do appreciate it.
👍
*edit*
Now on the topic at hand. My boss is about to get a new car and he has a 1997 Prelude 5spd that he would accept monthly payments on. I know this breaks a few rules but the car would only cost me $180/mo with a total buying price of $3800. It has 125k miles and only needs minor things like brakes, sparkplugs, air filter, A/C recharge, etc. My insurance would probably be lower than a BMW or Audi or whatnot. Just a thought...
The V6 is also an 17 I believe...or 16?
