Post pics of your PS3 setup!

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Check this link out, the Pioneer Elite Kuro 60" 1080p with true 24fps signal! Definately the top of the range...at a price unfortunately...$7,500.00!!! The main reasons I preffer plasme over LCD is because there is no motion blur, which can be found in even the best LCD's and LCD also takes longer to cool down.

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pna/v3/pg/kuro/product/details/0,,2076_310069729_477134674,00.html

All true, and generally Plasma have better blacks as well, however they also run far hotter than LCDs, use far more electricity and can suffer from image burn-in. The latter being a serious risk for gamers.

LCDs and Plasma sets both have pros and cons, the most basic truism for both is that you get what you pay for.

Regards

Scaff
 
The main reasons I preffer plasme over LCD is because there is no motion blur, which can be found in even the best LCD's and LCD also takes longer to cool down.
Not only do LCD's run cooler than Plasmas, but they take no less time to turn on or turn off. I think you are mistaking LCD for lamp based projection displays. As for motion blur found in even the best LCD... by all means list them, and list the conditions where the human eye would see this motion blur on those displays.


Regardless of that, if you are going to knock LCD for "motion blur" perhaps it would be a good idea to discuss some of the disadvanatges of Plasmas as well....


Don't open that can of worms! :)

Seriously, as a bonafide videophile I can list several reasons why I almost NEVER recommend a plasma, why most professional video calibrators and videophiles will tend to agree on this, and why I would never have one in my home.
  • Most Plasma's have a severe green push, and thus impossible to accurately calibrate color balance. 👎👎

  • Most Plasma's do not track D65 grayscale evenly across all IRE levels. 👎👎

  • All Plasmas are susceptible to burn-in as they use phosphors to display images. Once static images have burned into the display they will never go away.

    In addition, if you display a lot of 4x3 aspect images you will also unevenly wear out the luminance which causes another form of burn-in which also cannot be fixed. 👎👎

  • Most Plasma's use glass screens, which are highly reflective, and so you see reflections of the things in the room on the screen. 👎

  • Few Plasmas have a resolution of 1080p, and those that do are way over priced. 👎

  • Most Plasmas are very heavy due to the need for a glass screen. That can add cost and inconvenience when transporting and installing.

  • Most Plasmas also use far more electricity (per square inch of the display) than any other type of display. Not a big deal, but with rising energy costs, and more desire for greener electronics, this can certainly be considered a negative.


If it were me, I'd definitely choose LCD over Plasma in regards to flat panel display technology:
  • Better Color Acuity
  • Better Shadow Detail
  • Better Calibrated Contrast Levels
  • Better Pixel Structure (less noticeable screen door)
  • Higher Resolution @ Lower Cost
  • No Burn-in
  • No Screen Surface Reflections
  • Less Power Consumption
  • Less Weight
If you must own a Plasma, the only ones I would personally recommend are Panasonic's Professional Series Plasmas and Pioneer’s Elite Plasmas.


As far as what type, a lot would depend on your wants & needs. Unfortunately, there is no one display technology that is the best in every criteria... which is why the marketplace is so crowded with lots of different types of displays.

I almost never recommend a Plasma, for many reasons like burn-in, pixel grid, color inaccuracies, screen reflections, installation, power consumption, etc, but to be fair, there are some situations where a Plasma may in fact be a fine choice.

DLP, LCoS, and LCD all can offer excellent color accuracy, none of them uses phosphors so they are not susceptible to burn-in, although LCD can suffer from a form of image retention, but this is easily fixed by the user, where as actual phosphor burn-in is permanent.

DLP & LCoS traditionally are much better than LCD in terms of pixel grid (AKA screen door). Most 1080p DLP and LCoS will have little to no pixel grid lines, while even the best LCD panels will have grid lines. Of course depending on how large they are, and how far away from the screen you are sitting this can easily be a none issue.

DLP has traditionally had the best contrast & black levels, but at least in terms of ON/OFF contrast, LCD and especially LCoS has made significant improvements over the years.

There are many other differences between all these display technologies, but I think you get the general idea. Also, these are just generalities. There are always exceptions, both good and bad among displays using the same technology.

As I mentioned, I'm not saying Plasmas are terrible, and in fact in some situations they would be an ideal choice, nor am I saying any one display technology is perfect, but let's not attempt to paint LCD or other displays in a bad light while at the same time ignoring all the disadvantages that come along with Plasma display technology.
 
Digital-Nitrate...wow, I must bow, you really know your stuff... What is your opinion on the Samsung M series compared to the Bravia series from Sony?
 
What is your opinion on the Samsung M series compared to the Bravia series from Sony?
There are significant differences among both the different models in both those series so you'd have to first identify which two you want to compare, but in general Samsung has historically offered a better compromise for the value minded consumer in offering performance, reliability and price. Sony generally cost more and while you can get features and performance levels not seen in a comparable Samsung model, some of these features and performance differences may not be worth the extra cost for many people.

There is actually a thread on this very subject in the Electronics & Home Theater forum:
In addition, as mentioned in that thread, it is very important to first and foremost know exactly what your needs, wants, and restrictions are, and then use that to properly match that with a display that meets those criteria.

You may also find the following thread to have some useful or at least interesting topics on choosing the right display for each person's needs, especially on selecting the best size of display and some recommendations on calibration:
There are also several threads in the Electronics & Home Theater forum you might also enjoy browsing through for ideas and interesting related topics. 👍



On a not so related subject, I just saw a promo for this PS3:

ferrari_ps3.jpg


And immediately thought how nice that would look with one of these:

20070519102143afa12.jpg


2007051910230983760.jpg


:drool:
 
OK made a change to my set-up.

The sub was giving me a few problems with its auto-off function, in that it would shut itself off at times when little bass was present, not a good situation.

Fortunately I always get all my kit (home cinema and hi-fi) from a friends shop, so I have added slightly to the overall price and changed the Sub. We now have a Monitor Audio Bronze Reference BRW-10, may not look as pretty as the last one and in theory is less powerful (running a 150w integrated amp rather than 250w), however it has a much nicer sound to it and far more flexibility in set-up (and importantly the auto-off can be overridden).


I'm sure this will not be the last 'upgrade' the system gets.

Regards

Scaff

Looks like pretty serious RCA cables.... Do you get a lot of room rattle with your sub? I have got to say, this is one of the most annoying effects of loose ceilings and other rattle friendly objects. I would like nice and tight, thunderous bass without out all the room rattle. I suppose a dedicated theatre room would be required to achieve this. Seeing your powered sub reminds me that someday I should upgrade my two passive 12" subs (built by myself circa 1992) with a nice set of Klipsch powered subs or even with the ever popular SVS cylinder subs.
 
Looks like pretty serious RCA cables.... Do you get a lot of room rattle with your sub? I have got to say, this is one of the most annoying effects of loose ceilings and other rattle friendly objects. I would like nice and tight, thunderous bass without out all the room rattle. I suppose a dedicated theatre room would be required to achieve this. Seeing your powered sub reminds me that someday I should upgrade my two passive 12" subs (built by myself circa 1992) with a nice set of Klipsch powered subs or even with the ever popular SVS cylinder subs.

The cable is a 6m run of QED QUNEX P-SW sub cable, which terminates in a QED QUNEX Y-SW splitter....

qed_PSW.jpeg
+
m_qed_qunex_ysw_p1.jpg


...fairly heavy-duty stuff, but one thing I have never gone for is cheap cables and interconnects. The two mentioned above came to around £70, which I think is money well spent.

I'm lucky with regard to the room my set-up is in, the floor is carpet over concrete and the sub itself is well isolated, so I get no rattle from it at all. When Mich came in from work tonight and heard the new sub, she immediately spotted the difference, its just a much cleaner sound, not the overly heavy and forced bass sound you can get from a lot of subs (and the 720 did suffer from this a little).

👍

Scaff
 
There are significant differences among both the different models in both those series so you'd have to first identify which two you want to compare, but in general Samsung has historically offered a better compromise for the value minded consumer in offering performance, reliability and price. Sony generally cost more and while you can get features and performance levels not seen in a comparable Samsung model, some of these features and performance differences may not be worth the extra cost for many people.

There is actually a thread on this very subject in the Electronics & Home Theater forum:
In addition, as mentioned in that thread, it is very important to first and foremost know exactly what your needs, wants, and restrictions are, and then use that to properly match that with a display that meets those criteria.

You may also find the following thread to have some useful or at least interesting topics on choosing the right display for each person's needs, especially on selecting the best size of display and some recommendations on calibration:
There are also several threads in the Electronics & Home Theater forum you might also enjoy browsing through for ideas and interesting related topics. 👍



On a not so related subject, I just saw a promo for this PS3:

ferrari_ps3.jpg


And immediately thought how nice that would look with one of these:

20070519102143afa12.jpg


2007051910230983760.jpg


:drool:

Thanks for all the info:)

That Red Paintjob will look awesome...I actually like my black ps3 these days, got those scratch protection covers for it...no more scratches and dust simply wipes off!
 
Where do you think it's coming from to begin with? :odd:

I'm sure when they ship them on mass they are better protected than they would be on their own through the postal service. My step-bro's company imports stuff from America and China by the cargo-crate load and still ends up with a fair percentage damaged in transit.
 
I'm sure when they ship them on mass they are better protected than they would be on their own through the postal service.
You might be surprised. I know three years ago I ordered 30 AE700 HD projectors directly from Panasonic as part of a power buy, and they arrived on their original shipping pallet... with ten of the boxes (all on the bottom) damaged from the weight that was obviously ontop of them. Granted, the projector's themselves I'm sure where fine, but still, I find individually shipped products are generally more protected than mass shipped products... but that's just based on my own experience.

I would say though, that many people successfully buy large displays over the internet and have them shipped thousands of miles. In fact, it is becoming quite popular recently to buy expensive products from other countires due to some of the large differences in currency exchange rates and avoiding higher tax rates.

While I have rarely bought grey market products, I rarely buy any electronics locally, and buy them from online retailers. Not only due to the much lower prices, and no tax, but also for the convenience of shopping from home and having them shipped to my door. 👍

Of course, when buying online, it is very wise to buy from a reputable dealer, and make sure you completely understand the return policy.
 
I would say though, that many people successfully buy large displays over the internet and have them shipped thousands of miles. In fact, it is becoming quite popular recently to buy expensive products from other countires due to some of the large differences in currency exchange rates and avoiding higher tax rates.

So true, i have some distant family in Denmark who've told me that most Danish folk (this is pre-internet days) buy their Bang & Olufsen kit from the UK. The cost of a flight (pre-budget airlines) and a weekend's accommodation in London still outweighed the sales tax they'd be charged back in Denmark, where the product is obviously produced in the first place!
 
I'm sure when they ship them on mass they are better protected than they would be on their own through the postal service. My step-bro's company imports stuff from America and China by the cargo-crate load and still ends up with a fair percentage damaged in transit.

That's generally true, but no guarantee of perfect shipment. The last few miles are up to the mercy of "underpaid" truck drivers. UPS, however, prefers the chuck&heave method of package migration. I've found FedEx to be pretty careful, though, if available. You could always pony up for real freight, which is really your best chance if you're buying like that.
 
That's generally true, but no guarantee of perfect shipment. The last few miles are up to the mercy of "underpaid" truck drivers. UPS, however, prefers the chuck&heave method of package migration. I've found FedEx to be pretty careful, though, if available. You could always pony up for real freight, which is really your best chance if you're buying like that.
Living near the main UPS hub and knowing people who have worked for UPS I can say that there is no chucking and heaving. However, their lines where they split them up by region tend to come down a huge slide and then across rollers. If someone gets behind or careless packages can bounce off each other or be unbalanced and topple. Fortunately UPS does insure against this kind of thing and any reputable retailer will quickly replace your package and UPS will pay up.

And any truly good retailer will insure your package so you can be given a replacement as quickly as possible, no matter the shipping service used.

I wouldn't be too concerned about shipping products unless the return policy of the retailer is no returns. In that case chances are the product was damaged before it ever left.
 
Living near the main UPS hub and knowing people who have worked for UPS I can say that there is no chucking and heaving. However, their lines where they split them up by region tend to come down a huge slide and then across rollers. If someone gets behind or careless packages can bounce off each other or be unbalanced and topple. Fortunately UPS does insure against this kind of thing and any reputable retailer will quickly replace your package and UPS will pay up.

I wasn't trying to say that they literally throw your packages around, but given the way numerous items have arrived to me through UPS compared to FedEx, I can say with certainty that FedEx has the softer hands.
 
I wasn't trying to say that they literally throw your packages around, but given the way numerous items have arrived to me through UPS compared to FedEx, I can say with certainty that FedEx has the softer hands.
Sometimes it can be a local thing too. I know I get many FedEx packages that look like they have been stepped on or they will just leave them sitting in the rain while UPS puts everything in a plastic bag if it is raining. I even saw the UPS pick-up at work load all our packages into bags before he left the shipping room. Heck, it can even come down to the individual driver and how well he loads/secures his truck and his driving.
 
Well....here we go...finally. After nearly two years worth of remodeling my basement I have a chance to bask in the glow of my hard work.

This first picture shows the set up as a hole. It did take me sometime to figure out what I wanted the set up to look like. Did I want to build a cabinet of sorts so that none of the equipment would be visible? How would the PS3 deal with the heat of being enclosed in something that maybe wouldn't have good airflow around it?

That being a major factor led me to making an open shelf for the equipment to sit on. With that decision made, how do I want it to look? Do I really want to run all the cables in the wall or can I live with the look of a rats nest? The older I get the more anal I get about how things look and work. I did buy a cable chase thinking that would be good enough but needless to say I never opened the package.

picture012yt2.jpg



Picture number two is a close up which shows the only visible cabling. With the way Bose runs the speaker wires I just couldn't completely hide them so on the right you can see the cables that hook up to the outlet in the wall. When you get down low like this you can also see the surge protector which I also couldn't hide in the wall.

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Close up number three and still just a hint of cables. Are these things actually hooked up one might ask?

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AH HA...The secret is finally showing it’s self. The shelf I made is actually hollow! All you can see is the hole I drilled in the slate to allow the cable to attach to the equipment.

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Hummm...should have have bought black HDMI cables? Here is the best shot of my sneeky little tricks.

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Sound is a top priority so how about that surround sound!

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picture011hw3.jpg



OK OK so I do have a dirty little secret but who is going to be lying on their back underneath my shelf to see the inner workings of the black hole of cables?

picture013sz9.jpg
 
I only have one question.

I see two wall electrical outlets in the vicinity of your system. Check that, there is a third on the side wall. So three. That makes six actual plugs.

Not one has a power cable in it, yet everything has power lights on.



It is one thing to hide wires, but do you have some sort of Tesla coil hidden in the wall or is there a fourth outlet hidden behind the sub?


Also, I may PM you in a few minutes with some more technical questions for my future personal setup.
 
Here is how that deal went down. Way back when I had the walls down to bare studs I was thinking that I would eventually be plugging a lot of equipment to that wall. I even had an electrician hook up a new circuit to the breaker box so that I could have unlimited possibilities.

I guess the thought hadn't crossed my mind that I would be buying an external surge protector so the need was only really going to be for one outlet.

Since I have this it all went for not.

41njl5pcz7laa280yh0.jpg


That wall has even more then you think.

From left to right there are the two visible outlets, then comes the internet and satellite connector, one more outlet plug, and finally two separate connectors for the speakers, one set for the front and one set for the rear. The rear connectors are the one that is just hiding behind the bass mod.
 
Wow nice and clean setup, like the colours and the whole warmness to the place (with the wood shelves and such)...

Im also liking that Bose sound system :sly: although if you could find a way to better conceal the sub (maybe behind a wooden box panel) it would look better..

Dont think you'll be needing the fireplace now with the PS3 on! ;)

Robin
 
Wow nice and clean setup, like the colours and the whole warmness to the place (with the wood shelves and such)...

Thanks. White is boring!

Im also liking that Bose sound system :sly: although if you could find a way to better conceal the sub (maybe behind a wooden box panel) it would look better..

That still us up in the air at the moment. The system comes with cables long enough that the best place for it would be behind the sofa. One would need to place it so that your bum would rumble. Problem with that is we actually haven't pick one out for that room yet so I'm not sure if that is it's final resting place. If it is, then we will be decorating somehow around it to make it less of an eye sore.

Dont think you'll be needing the fireplace now with the PS3 on! ;)

:lol: very true
 
Very CLEAN setup! I hazard to guess you don't have any little ones running around yanking PS3 off the shelf? :)

Looks like all your hard work has paid off. I would hope to be able to do something like that in the future. My rats nest of wires has got me worried, fire hazards and all. :)

Good Job! 👍
 
My little ones are now eight and nine years old and understand how their life might be cut short with inappropriate use of the equipment. Not that as a parent I would ever use the fear of death to keep them in-line.
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Nice setup Unomoto, which sharp tv is that? We just bought a 42 inch 1080p aquos, and I love it. Ill try to post up pics soon, we got such a great deal on it too, only $1300, whereas best buy has it listed for 1799!
 
My little ones are now eight and nine years old and understand how their life might be cut short with inappropriate use of the equipment. Not that as a parent I would ever use the fear of death to keep them in-line.
yesnodbp9.gif

:lol: Nice! Question on your setup.... any thought of mounting that center channel? :D
 
:lol: Nice! Question on your setup.... any thought of mounting that center channel? :D

yeah...After I had nearly everthing completed. :banghead:

But thanks for pointing out a glaring flaw that I wasn't going to mention. :irked:

Next time I drive by the Bose outlet (which is about 50 miles from me) I'll be picking up one of those mounting brackets.
 
yeah...After I had nearly everthing completed. :banghead:

But thanks for pointing out a glaring flaw that I wasn't going to mention. :irked:

Next time I drive by the Bose outlet (which is about 50 miles from me) I'll be picking up one of those mounting brackets.

;) I'm glad I was able to help make that shortcoming public. It's actually a very nice setup! You did a great job on the install. Did you run any conduit in the walls for the TV wiring or is it just fished through the drywall?

Will it be easy to run new wires if you need to?

Just asking as I need to do some major house keeping on my system.
 
Again with the making me confess my short comings. 👎

Before I put the drywall up I insulated the walls with ridge foam insulation.(because it was a freebie from my work that’s why) Thus making the typically easy task of dropping a cable down a hollow wall a royal pain in the....

I actually went all cave man on my wall and grabbed my router and just cut a long groove in the drywall and insulation. I'm getting rather good at patching and texturing drywall so it really wasn't a big deal to cut it up.

I did install some PVC rings large enough to add some future cables which is slightly visible in the last photo, but I do not have conduit in the wall. I just hope that I made a groove large enough to expand if I need too.
 
Well....


It still looks great! :D


I hope I don't have you all depressed and stuff, it looks like it functions quite well. If you want to feel better you can always look at my install!! :D
 
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