PS4: T300 GTE or T500RSPS4

[PRO_TOO]

Hehe, to me, when going from PCars or AC or GSC to GT6, im actually baffled how bad the FFB in GT6 actually is. Its vague, doesn't tell me anything besides kerbs and has so much damping that youre always to slow to react when you see (not feel) the back coming around.

PCars will definately be the new benchmark for FFB support on consoles and will give Kaz Yamauchi and Dan Greeawalt something to think about.

do you think gt5's ffb is superior to gt6's!? cause yesterday i wasnt really impressed by it. only the zonda rrrrrr..... on la sarthe gave me some "wiigle and wooble".

and boy, how i have to learn using the pedals and wheel again. the first hour was just so bad. at the beginning i thought i might be better with a pad. but then the learning curve kicked in and i got better... will try on la sarthe and imola with 1 or 2 cars that will be present in Pcars. just to get a fair comparison when its released.

 

[blowfishrulez]

I have to try GT5 again to comment on what i like more. From what i heard, GT6 has received a lot of FFB improvements lately, which leads me to believe that GT6 has better FFB though...

 

[GTP_Monkey]

I only had to do my pedals. Every game ive used my GTE wheel has been a massive improvement on my old DFGT and I really liked that one. Biggest deifference for me apart from lack of noise was in Dirt 3 on the rally stages it felt awesome and so much easier to catch the back end blowing out and hold a good 4 wheel drift

 

[psychoazubi]

I only had to do my pedals. Every game ive used my GTE wheel has been a massive improvement on my old DFGT and I really liked that one. Biggest deifference for me apart from lack of noise was in Dirt 3 on the rally stages it felt awesome and so much easier to catch the back end blowing out and hold a good 4 wheel drift

I think I'll have to try dirt 3 again. Didn't play it with my T500 yet.

@PRO_TOO GT6 > GT5 when it comes to FFB but in both games the cars don't really feel alive compared to Race07/Pcars

 

[PRO_TOO]

@blowfishrulez: thx mate.

another rig related question: i have my rig positioned the way its shown on that sample pic i made. the wheel is just scratchig the edge of my tv. my head (viewpoint) is a little lower than the middle of my tv. is that correct or should i set the whole rig higher!?

 

[V8-Johnboy]

Yeah, apparently some of that stuff is hard to get in Europe. @PRO_TOO ordered his rubber thingies from Hongkong.
I think I'm gonna try using a squash ball first, as @Schumi-01 suggested, because I don't know how stuff super-glued to the pedals will affect possible warranty claims.

The glue issue is what's putting me off slightly tbh That white residue that's left behind is very obvious ans for sure will cause issues with any returns. If anyone can post their squash ball/foam golf ball results that would be very welcome. The bungee cords mod I used to use with my DGFT pedals is a no go with these pedals unfortunately.

 

[PRO_TOO]

I think I'll have to try dirt 3 again. Didn't play it with my T500 yet.

@PRO_TOO GT6 > GT5 when it comes to FFB but in both games the cars don't really feel alive compared to Race07/Pcars

yeah, you have no feel for the car, rather its "just" wiggle for the sake of it. maybe a little more feedback at curbs and off track. i get it and see it the same way.

 

[PRO_TOO]

The glue issue is what's putting me off slightly tbh That white residue that's left behind is very obvious ans for sure will cause issues with any returns. If anyone can post their squash ball results that would be very welcome. The bungee cords mod I used to use with my DGFT pedals is a no go with these pedals unfortunately.

me too. but only cause he mentioned it.
the rubber caps from hongkong arrived but i hadnt checked the size. they were much to small. so im going for a squash ball i think.

 

[V8-Johnboy]

me too. but only cause he mentioned it.
the rubber caps from hongkong arrived but i hadnt checked the size. they were much to small. so im going for a squash ball i think.

Lol yeah don't worry we all fell for the wrong size caps I think. The video was a little misleading as to which ones were used.

 

[blowfishrulez]

@blowfishrulez: thx mate.

another rig related question: i have my rig positioned the way its shown on that sample pic i made. the wheel is just scratchig the edge of my tv. my head (viewpoint) is a little lower than the middle of my tv. is that correct or should i set the whole rig higher!?

I would go a little higher since humans naturally have their focus of vision slightly below the middle of the vertical field of view.

 

[V8-Johnboy]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/pack-of-6...357?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item462e31b565

@PRO_TOO These may be worth a go few spare to.

 

[PRO_TOO]

I would go a little higher since humans naturally have their focus of vision slightly below the middle of the vertical field of view.

so that the wheel is actually over the bottom edge of the tv. like it would cover the wheel in cockpit view. you know what i mean!?

as we can arrange hud elements, this should workout in bumper view too. hm...

 

[PRO_TOO]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/pack-of-6...357?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item462e31b565

@PRO_TOO These may be worth a go few spare to.

yeah! my mom got these exactly for their cats to play with! easy. i will try it!

 

[blowfishrulez]

Ideally your wheel should match up with the wheel on screen.

 

[PRO_TOO]

Ideally your wheel should match up with the wheel on screen.

alright. im taking photos of my point of view tonight at home and check back with you later. thx so far.

 

[bleeder]

yeah! my mom got these exactly for their cats to play with! easy. i will try it!

let us all know how effective these are, and also how often they need replacing, thanks

 

[Brit999]

I was testing my new T300 tonight in GT5! I started the game several times but it won't center the wheel perfect. When I center it myself ingame on the track the car always drive a little to the right. Wierd. Hope it's nothing wrong with it.

I will test it in GRID2 now.

Edit: no, it's the same. When I use the blue mark on the wheel to put it in 12 o'clock position it makes the car go a little to the right.

Any suggestions?! Help!!

Edit2: when I boot up the PS3 and the wheel starts calibrating it's a little to the left. That's what makes it ingame go right when I have it centered at 12 o'clock.
I think it's kinda broken, isn't it?!

Edit3: will try manual calibrating tomorrow: http://ts.thrustmaster.com/faqs/eng/thr_eng_00158.pdf

Manual Calibration on PS3 for T300 should be done at the XMB:

1) Connect the racing wheel's USB cable (on PS3/PS4 or on PC), then wait for the auto-calibration phase to end.
2) Turn the racing wheel fully to the left (until you reach the stop).
3) Turn the racing wheel fully to the right (until you reach the stop).
4) Make sure that your racing wheel is perfectly centered ; while holding it in this position, press the START, SELECT & MODE buttons simultaneously :
* PS & GT WHEEL = « SE + ST + MODE »
* F1 WHEEL = « BO + WET + MODE »
* 458 CHALLENGE GTE WHEEL = « SCROLL + RIGHT LEVER + MODE »
5) The racing wheel's LED briefly changes colour, then reverts to its initial colour.
This means that the wheel's center value has been reset and automatically saved to the device's internal memory (you do not need to repeat the procedure every time you connect the racing wheel); this applies to all of the T300's wheels (PS, GT, F1, 458 GTE, etc.).

Hope this helps!

 

[psychoazubi]

Manual Calibration on PS3 for T300 should be done at the XMB:

1) Connect the racing wheel's USB cable (on PS3/PS4 or on PC), then wait for the auto-calibration phase to end.
2) Turn the racing wheel fully to the left (until you reach the stop).
3) Turn the racing wheel fully to the right (until you reach the stop).
4) Make sure that your racing wheel is perfectly centered ; while holding it in this position, press the START, SELECT & MODE buttons simultaneously :
* PS & GT WHEEL = « SE + ST + MODE »
* F1 WHEEL = « BO + WET + MODE »
* 458 CHALLENGE GTE WHEEL = « SCROLL + RIGHT LEVER + MODE »
5) The racing wheel's LED briefly changes colour, then reverts to its initial colour.
This means that the wheel's center value has been reset and automatically saved to the device's internal memory (you do not need to repeat the procedure every time you connect the racing wheel); this applies to all of the T300's wheels (PS, GT, F1, 458 GTE, etc.).

Hope this helps!

This is copy + paste from the link he added

 

[PRO_TOO]

So, no like for you, my friend!!

Thx anyway.

 

[Brit999]

So Sorry, I have only just realised

 

[GTP_Monkey]

It could be possible when you assembled the wheel to its base you may have it slightly of centre.

 

[PRO_TOO]

It could be possible when you assembled the wheel to its base you may have it slightly of centre.

How is that possible when there is a connector (similar to ps2 keyboard connector) that only fits in one position?! The ring around it is just to hold it there.

 

[GTP_Monkey]

How is that possible when there is a connector (similar to ps2 keyboard connector) that only fits in one position?! The ring around it is just to hold it there.

I only said it could be possible. After I found two my Grandaughters hanging onto the the wheel whilst stored under the stair she had turned it as far left as possible then was hanging from it, Next time i used it it was off centre so I turned it the opposte way applied a bit of pressure and all is fine now, And the grandkids are banned from touching it now LOL

Edit::: it was about an inch off centre.

 

[PRO_TOO]

Rule number one: don't let people hang on your wheel, man!!!

i believe you but still the connector would be of from the counter part. I don't get it. Anyway. I will try manual calibrating tonight.

 

[GTP_Monkey]

Rule number one: don't let people hang on your wheel, man!!!

i believe you but still the connector would be of from the counter part. I don't get it. Anyway. I will try manual calibrating tonight.

Take the wheel off the base and then check the spindle (that the wheel attaches to) and see if that is the problem> if it is its faulty if it isnt its a software issue.

 

[PRO_TOO]

I will report tonight, sir!

 

[GTP_Monkey]

See how it calibrates with just the spindle/stub

 

[talkin_2_me]

The glue issue is what's putting me off slightly tbh That white residue that's left behind is very obvious ans for sure will cause issues with any returns. If anyone can post their squash ball/foam golf ball results that would be very welcome.

I just cut one of the foam bricks that came with the packaging to size and stuck it behind the pedal.
It's not the best solution in terms of accuracy, but as I currently only play GT6 with ABS on I don't need that last bit of precision. At least it adds some progressive resistence.
Did you already do the pontentiometer calibration? I've got about 10-20% travel on the accelerator before anything happens and don't know if it's worth the hassle and how it'll affect the warranty.
Maybe I'll just wait until the T3PA is back in stock. Does anyone know how the T3PA compares to the T300 pedals? Does it come with the same dead spot issues?

All in all, I'm a bit disapointed with my T300. Some rough edges, dead spot in the pedal, clicking noises whenever the wheel changes directions, left shifter engages sooner than right shifter...
Maybe my expectations where a bit high. There's only so much quality you can expect for less than 300 bucks, I guess.

 

[PRO_TOO]

I just cut one of the foam bricks that came with the packaging to size and stuck it behind the pedal.
It's not the best solution in terms of accuracy, but as I currently only play GT6 with ABS on I don't need that last bit of precision. At least it adds some progressive resistence.
Did you already do the pontentiometer calibration? I've got about 10-20% travel on the accelerator before anything happens and don't know if it's worth the hassle and how it'll affect the warranty.
Maybe I'll just wait until the T3PA is back in stock. Does anyone know how the T3PA compares to the T300 pedals? Does it come with the same dead spot issues?

All in all, I'm a bit disapointed with my T300. Some rough edges, dead spot in the pedal, clicking noises whenever the wheel changes directions, left shifter engages sooner than right shifter...
Maybe my expectations where a bit high. There's only so much quality you can expect for less than 300 bucks, I guess.

same at my wheel. left shifter clicks little sooner than the right one.
will test the pedals dead zone tonight. did not think of this yesterday.

 

[V8-Johnboy]

I just cut one of the foam bricks that came with the packaging to size and stuck it behind the pedal.
It's not the best solution in terms of accuracy, but as I currently only play GT6 with ABS on I don't need that last bit of precision. At least it adds some progressive resistence.
Did you already do the pontentiometer calibration? I've got about 10-20% travel on the accelerator before anything happens and don't know if it's worth the hassle and how it'll affect the warranty.
Maybe I'll just wait until the T3PA is back in stock. Does anyone know how the T3PA compares to the T300 pedals? Does it come with the same dead spot issues?

All in all, I'm a bit disapointed with my T300. Some rough edges, dead spot in the pedal, clicking noises whenever the wheel changes directions, left shifter engages sooner than right shifter...
Maybe my expectations where a bit high. There's only so much quality you can expect for less than 300 bucks, I guess.

Yeah I've tweaked the potentiometers I've gone from about what you have to around 2mm on each pedal now Can't see how it will effect any warranty issues tbh as long as you are careful with the screws nobody will ever know.