PSVR2 + Bass Shakers = new level of immersion.

[BWX]

Nice 👌🏻 it looks like you have total control over the bass shakers. If you do get to set up Sim Hub please let me know your impressions compared to this current setup you have.

Yeah definitely will. It'll only be one channel though so I won't get all that directional data. I'd have to hook up more amps and transducers for that or move one transducer up under the pedals or something and run one more map. Then I could get back to front directionality at least.

 

[roytheboy]

Hi all. I’ve just splashed out on a PS5, PSVR2, Sim-Lab 8020 rig, GT Omega recliner seat, and a Fanatec DD GT wheelbase. I was impressed running GT7 in VR with a DualSense but yesterday I got the full rig set up and OMG; OMG …OMFG!

But the awesome level of immersion has left me with an obvious gap in my racing expectations from when I used to race for real, in that I cannot feel the engine, the road or the kerbs. So I’ve decided to go down the bass-shakers route spending as little as I need to given my already over-stretched budget.

I’ve read about the different bass-shakers available and have concluded that Dayton Audio are the brand to go for. But rather than strapping BST-1's to the rig itself and having to worry about disturbing others in the house, I’m thinking that the smaller TT25's positioned close to my body might be more subtle and cheaper too.

Ideally I’d like 5: one on the base of each pedal, one under the wheelbase mount, and one each side of the seat base, attached to the springs. In the first instance I’ll go for four channels and see if it’s OK without the wheel shaker, but I want the option for a fifth channel if required.

I’m a Linux/Mac kinda guy so the prospect of getting a Windows PC to run SimHub is not a pleasant one. But needs must when the devil vomits into your kettle, as Blackadder said! So, following hours of research, I have what I think is the best route to go. Would you peeps mind commenting on my thoughts and questions please, if you are able, and I’m sure it would help others too.

1. PC Laptop - Most articles I read say that it’s better to buy a basic new laptop, rather than a refurbished old one with old parts. The cheapest, smallest, well-reviewed laptop that looks like it’ll do the job (I don’t need it for anything else) is the Asus E410MA 14” 4GB/64GB running Windows 10S or 11S, for £209. It has Bluetooth, a USB Type-C, and two USB 3.2. Will this be suffice to run SimHub and the equipment that follows, please?

2. Amp(s) Option 1 - I could get two Nobsound NS-10G’s, or two Nobsound NS-01G Pro’s (with a sound card and volume). They cost the same. I’m confused: would I need a sound card with the NS-10G’s or should I go straight for the NS-01G Pro’s? Is it best to connect via USB or will BT be better (if indeed it is possible)?

3. Amp Option 2 - I could get a Nobsound Douk Audio M4 4-channel amp. I’m thinking that the Douk might be better if it connects to the PC by one USB, leaving another free for a fifth channel …am I right? I’m also thinking that one power supply would be neater. The Douk looks neat but has mixed good/bad reviews - is anyone else using one?

4. Bass-shakers - at £85 the BST-1's are expensive when buying four, as are the BST-2’s. Am I right to think that the TT25’s (8 ohms) mounted close to my body will be better value? …will I still feel enough vibes through the pedals given that they are bolted down tight? Will shakers directly under the seat springs get hot?

 

[Pr197uk]

Hi all. I’ve just splashed out on a PS5, PSVR2, Sim-Lab 8020 rig, GT Omega recliner seat, and a Fanatec DD GT wheelbase. I was impressed running GT7 in VR with a DualSense but yesterday I got the full rig set up and OMG; OMG …OMFG!

But the awesome level of immersion has left me with an obvious gap in my racing expectations from when I used to race for real, in that I cannot feel the engine, the road or the kerbs. So I’ve decided to go down the bass-shakers route spending as little as I need to given my already over-stretched budget.

Congrats on the purchase. Have you seen Karl Gosling video about this, seems like what your looking for and the same seat aswell.
As for laptop really dont think you need anything very powerful, I`m using something thats 6 years old, although i havent looked into the specs for using simhub, maybe i should!?

 

[Poggi903]

Hi all. I’ve just splashed out on a PS5, PSVR2, Sim-Lab 8020 rig, GT Omega recliner seat, and a Fanatec DD GT wheelbase. I was impressed running GT7 in VR with a DualSense but yesterday I got the full rig set up and OMG; OMG …OMFG!

But the awesome level of immersion has left me with an obvious gap in my racing expectations from when I used to race for real, in that I cannot feel the engine, the road or the kerbs. So I’ve decided to go down the bass-shakers route spending as little as I need to given my already over-stretched budget.

I’ve read about the different bass-shakers available and have concluded that Dayton Audio are the brand to go for. But rather than strapping BST-1's to the rig itself and having to worry about disturbing others in the house, I’m thinking that the smaller TT25's positioned close to my body might be more subtle and cheaper too.

Ideally I’d like 5: one on the base of each pedal, one under the wheelbase mount, and one each side of the seat base, attached to the springs. In the first instance I’ll go for four channels and see if it’s OK without the wheel shaker, but I want the option for a fifth channel if required.

I’m a Linux/Mac kinda guy so the prospect of getting a Windows PC to run SimHub is not a pleasant one. But needs must when the devil vomits into your kettle, as Blackadder said! So, following hours of research, I have what I think is the best route to go. Would you peeps mind commenting on my thoughts and questions please, if you are able, and I’m sure it would help others too.

1. PC Laptop - Most articles I read say that it’s better to buy a basic new laptop, rather than a refurbished old one with old parts. The cheapest, smallest, well-reviewed laptop that looks like it’ll do the job (I don’t need it for anything else) is the Asus E410MA 14” 4GB/64GB running Windows 10S or 11S, for £209. It has Bluetooth, a USB Type-C, and two USB 3.2. Will this be suffice to run SimHub and the equipment that follows, please?

2. Amp(s) Option 1 - I could get two Nobsound NS-10G’s, or two Nobsound NS-01G Pro’s (with a sound card and volume). They cost the same. I’m confused: would I need a sound card with the NS-10G’s or should I go straight for the NS-01G Pro’s? Is it best to connect via USB or will BT be better (if indeed it is possible)?

3. Amp Option 2 - I could get a Nobsound Douk Audio M4 4-channel amp. I’m thinking that the Douk might be better if it connects to the PC by one USB, leaving another free for a fifth channel …am I right? I’m also thinking that one power supply would be neater. The Douk looks neat but has mixed good/bad reviews - is anyone else using one?

4. Bass-shakers - at £85 the BST-1's are expensive when buying four, as are the BST-2’s. Am I right to think that the TT25’s (8 ohms) mounted close to my body will be better value? …will I still feel enough vibes through the pedals given that they are bolted down tight? Will shakers directly under the seat springs get hot?

Hi welcome to the convo. I am no toi sure having a bass shaker for each pedal will work. It will probably be best just having one there or max two.

That laptop you mention is more than enough for Simhub. I have a 10 year old laptop running SimHub and it does the job with no issues.

I myself was looking around for Amps specifically the ones you mentioned but wnded up going for the Douk Audio M4 one which was recommended to me by Mr Latte. As you say it is neater having just one amp than multiple ones.

Regarding the Bass Shakers getting hot, I have mine literally inside the lumbar area of the back of my seat. No issues at all. I have there a BST-1
and another under the pedals. They are great and powerful and I only tun them at half the power. Mine have not gotten hot all. Maybe if you run them near max then they would overheat.

Regarding the little bass shakers I feel you can't go wrong following Mr Latte's advice and get instead the Dayton Audio DAEX32EP-4 Thruster 32mm Exciters. I've just oredered them and the Douk Audio M4 amp and should be testing them out in the next week. From the reviews I've seen on the exciters, they are seriously good and well worth the money. On the Amp I found mixed reviews too and only hope mine doesn't come faulty.

I hope that helps you in your decision.

 

[roytheboy]

I am no toi sure having a bass shaker for each pedal will work. It will probably be best just having one there or max two.

I only have two pedals (well separated like a kart) so I thought it might give me a sense of front-left and front-right vibes.

That laptop you mention is more than enough for Simhub. I have a 10 year old laptop running SimHub and it does the job with no issues.

Great

I myself was looking around for Amps specifically the ones you mentioned but wnded up going for the Douk Audio M4 one which was recommended to me by Mr Latte. As you say it is neater having just one amp than multiple ones.

Mr Latte? ...is this via an article or video or what?

Regarding the little bass shakers I feel you can't go wrong following Mr Latte's advice and get instead the Dayton Audio DAEX32EP-4 Thruster 32mm Exciters.

As I understand it, exciter speakers are intended to turn flat surfaces into normal sound speakers. Surely this is not what we want when we only need the bass vibes with the minimum of other sounds? Best I do a bit more research 🤔

I've just oredered them and the Douk Audio M4 amp and should be testing them out in the next week. From the reviews I've seen on the exciters, they are seriously good and well worth the money. On the Amp I found mixed reviews too and only hope mine doesn't come faulty.

Thanks for your help - looks like we're at the same point in our journey for deeper sim-racing immersion.

 

[Poggi903]

I only have two pedals (well separated like a kart) so I thought it might give me a sense of front-left and front-right vibes.

Great

Mr Latte? ...is this via an article or video or what?

As I understand it, exciter speakers are intended to turn flat surfaces into normal sound speakers. Surely this is not what we want when we only need the bass vibes with the minimum of other sounds? Best I do a bit more research 🤔

Thanks for your help - looks like we're at the same point in our journey for deeper sim-racing immersion.

@Mr Latte is the guy to talk to regarding any queries you may have. He is to my knowledge the most informed regarding bass shakers, exciters and general immersion for sim racing. Seriously knows his stuff. He is on these forums.

You're right that exciters are speakers that emit sound via vibrations when placed against something. These together with bass shakers like BST-1s and Buttkikers etc are perfect for immersion. Bass shakers work well in low frequencies and exciters have a wider range of frequency. This combination lets you map our different road / game effects via Simhub with greater accuracy. Exciters on the seat work extremely well for L/R separation for wheel slip etc as they are not so overpowering as a bass shakers and give you the necessary feedback and information you're after. The bass shakers add the deep low level frequencies for other effects like gear shifts and road impacts.

 

[roytheboy]

Congrats on the purchase. Have you seen Karl Gosling video about this, seems like what your looking for and the same seat aswell.

Hmmm - seems like the perfect solution at a fair price for what you get. But at £562 including delivery and VAT (which would be liable), it's a bit more than I am looking to spend, especially alongside a new laptop at £209 and on top of the rest of the kit I've just bought. My current idea of a Douk Audio M4 and four TT25's costs just £184, which is a big difference. If only I could test each solution to see if the difference is worth the price. This is why I'm asking opinions from those who already have the kit.

I'm also still not sure if I need a separate sound card if I buy a Douk Audio M4 🤔

As for laptop really dont think you need anything very powerful, I`m using something thats 6 years old, although i havent looked into the specs for using simhub, maybe i should!?

I can't find any system requirements spec on GitHub apart from the need for Windows 10 or 11, but it sounds like 4GB of RAM will be OK. Again, it's the sound card and USB or Bluetooth connections that I'm not clear about.

EDIT:

When considering the choice between small shakers next to body parts, and big shakers on the rig, I settled on the former as being best. I've now found a comment along similar lines by someone writing about the Slip Angle kit:

"Interesting idea using springs. However, proper implementation of tactile feedback must do two things that this system fails to do: 1: use isolators between each transducer of set of transducers and the rig frame so as not to effects and have them spread throughout the whole rig which makes positioning of complex/layered effects more difficult. 2: the transducers should not target corners of the rig but rather the specific body parts through which the effects will be felt. This is why isolated transducers are better positions on the seat itself (under the seat and/or in the back) or on the heel rest or pedal frame. Proper isolation of the transducers and proper positioning improves the quality and distinctiveness of complex and simultaneous effects many orders of magnitude. This is the difference between eating each element of a four course meal separately and putting everything in a blender."

 

[Pr197uk]

Hmmm - seems like the perfect solution at a fair price for what you get. But at £562 including delivery and VAT (which would be liable), it's a bit more than I am looking to spend, especially alongside a new laptop at £209 and on top of the rest of the kit I've just bought. My current idea of a Douk Audio M4 and four TT25's costs just £184, which is a big difference. If only I could test each solution to see if the difference is worth the price. This is why I'm asking opinions from those who already have the kit.

I'm also still not sure if I need a separate sound card if I buy a Douk Audio M4 🤔

I can't find any system requirements spec on GitHub apart from the need for Windows 10 or 11, but it sounds like 4GB of RAM will be OK. Again, it's the sound card and USB or Bluetooth connections that I'm not clear about.

EDIT:

When considering the choice between small shakers next to body parts, and big shakers on the rig, I settled on the former as being best. I've now found a comment along similar lines by someone writing about the Slip Angle kit:

For me I just went with front and rear shakers and I find that does what I need, I put the right front tyre on rough ground and the front shakes, or the front wheels lock up and it vibrates. I can’t see if there is enough detail to really warrant more than a couple. And unless I haven’t got things setup right I find there is a lack of detail is come of the vibration.
I find engine revs, track vibration , gear changes and wheel slip is all I need and find they give me the feedback from the two shakers.
It’ll keep costs down, it was £120 for the shakers and Nobsound amp. The one Karl has does have those springs to help reduce floor vibration.

 

[roytheboy]

For me I just went with front and rear shakers and I find that does what I need

Which shakers do you have?

 

[Pr197uk]

Which shakers do you have?

See my first post of this thread 😉

 

[HGHTCH]

For me I just went with front and rear shakers and I find that does what I need, I put the right front tyre on rough ground and the front shakes, or the front wheels lock up and it vibrates. I can’t see if there is enough detail to really warrant more than a couple. And unless I haven’t got things setup right I find there is a lack of detail is come of the vibration.
I find engine revs, track vibration , gear changes and wheel slip is all I need and find they give me the feedback from the two shakers.
It’ll keep costs down, it was £120 for the shakers and Nobsound amp. The one Karl has does have those springs to help reduce floor vibration.

I found I got a better sense of the car and grip using left and right rather than front and back, though now I have a shaker for each corner

 

[roytheboy]

Exciters on the seat work extremely well for L/R separation for wheel slip etc as they are not so overpowering as a bass shakers and give you the necessary feedback and information you're after. The bass shakers add the deep low level frequencies for other effects like gear shifts and road impacts.

Thanks. So given that I reckon the BST1's would be too much for my household, what do you think to the idea of a TT25-8 bolted to the back of each of my two pedals, and two DAEX32EP-4 exciters tie-wrapped to the springs under my seat? Would that give me a better range than four TT25's do you think?

I've ordered the laptop, by the way

 

[BWX]

Hi all. I’ve just splashed out on a PS5, PSVR2, Sim-Lab 8020 rig, GT Omega recliner seat, and a Fanatec DD GT wheelbase. I was impressed running GT7 in VR with a DualSense but yesterday I got the full rig set up and OMG; OMG …OMFG!

..................
..................

I’ve read about the different bass-shakers available and have concluded that Dayton Audio are the brand to go for. But rather than strapping BST-1's to the rig itself and having to worry about disturbing others in the house, I’m thinking that the smaller TT25's positioned close to my body might be more subtle and cheaper too.

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Pretty cool huh? It's a real head trip at first.


My 2 x 50 watt transducers don't make any noise on their own. Have two of these running on a 100 watt amp: "AuraSound AST-2B-4 Pro Bass Shaker Tactile Transducer ". THey only make noise if I'm not sitting in the rig and I forget they're on and it shakes the rig and makes noise, when I'm sitting in the rig they don't make noise. When mounting you need to make sure they're super secure or else they will vibrate against the surface and cause vibrational noises though. My rig is probably a lot more prone to vibration than yours too.

 

[roytheboy]

For me I just went with front and rear shakers and I find that does what I need, I put the right front tyre on rough ground and the front shakes, or the front wheels lock up and it vibrates. I can’t see if there is enough detail to really warrant more than a couple. And unless I haven’t got things setup right I find there is a lack of detail is come of the vibration.
I find engine revs, track vibration , gear changes and wheel slip is all I need and find they give me the feedback from the two shakers.
It’ll keep costs down, it was £120 for the shakers and Nobsound amp. The one Karl has does have those springs to help reduce floor vibration.

I’ve been reading threads on 'tactile' for hours and hours, including many posts by one very knowledgeable Mr Latte, and apart from getting totally confused (which I shouldn’t because I’m an aerospace engineer, but such is the depth of science involved in this subject), I am slowly coming to the conclusion that if one has an 8020 rig, unless one can isolate the left/right vibrations (very difficult and costly to do), one might as well stick to a front/back set-up and go for additional layering of transducer types if one wants to add anything at all. So in summary, I think your approach has a great deal of merit 👍

 

[Poggi903]

Thanks. So given that I reckon the BST1's would be too much for my household, what do you think to the idea of a TT25-8 bolted to the back of each of my two pedals, and two DAEX32EP-4 exciters tie-wrapped to the springs under my seat? Would that give me a better range than four TT25's do you think?

I've ordered the laptop, by the way

I think you're best just getting a single BST-1 for your pedals as it's 50w RMS. Whereas the TT25s are only 15w RMS. Perhaps with two like you say it's okay but again it's another channel that it will take from an amp as opposed to one bass shaker. I'd go for the DAEX32EP-4 instead of the TT25s as they are of similar price and output 40w RMS.
More is always best as you can always just lower the power given via Simhub or the Amp. Better that than be left wanting for more oomph out of your equipment.

Regarding tie-wrapping the exciters onto the springs of the seats it would be best if you attach them to a hard surface like the actual frame of the chair for it to be more effective. Or ideally on the hard back of the chair if possible. I've heard attaching the springs occasionally works well for some though but admittedly that's usually from strogner Bass Shakers so if that's your only option then you could give it a go and see how it goes with the exciters.
If noise is an issue though make sure you can fasten the bass shakers / exciters securely as they vibrate and if not well installed they will rattle the rig or whatever it's attached to creating noise.

 

[JustMac]

As someone who chronically needs 'instant action' (seriously, any kind of setting up with things and they end up gathering dust), can I run this simple setup:

PS5 controller -> male to 2x female 3.5mm jack -> JACK 1 connected to speakers -> JACK 2 connected to BST-1


If so, where would one hook up a BST-1 on a Simlab Evo, given that it's pretty strong? I want to 'feel the force'! Maybe on the seat underside?

 

[Poggi903]

As someone who chronically needs 'instant action' (seriously, any kind of setting up with things and they end up gathering dust), can I run this simple setup:

PS5 controller -> male to 2x female 3.5mm jack -> JACK 1 connected to speakers -> JACK 2 connected to BST-1


If so, where would one hook up a BST-1 on a Simlab Evo, given that it's pretty strong? I want to 'feel the force'! Maybe on the seat underside?

No, the BST-1s are passive speakers, therefore they need to be connected to an amplifier or a/v receiver.

For best reaults they should be securely installed against a hard flat surface.

 

[Pr197uk]

I’ve been reading threads on 'tactile' for hours and hours, including many posts by one very knowledgeable Mr Latte, and apart from getting totally confused (which I shouldn’t because I’m an aerospace engineer, but such is the depth of science involved in this subject), I am slowly coming to the conclusion that if one has an 8020 rig, unless one can isolate the left/right vibrations (very difficult and costly to do), one might as well stick to a front/back set-up and go for additional layering of transducer types if one wants to add anything at all. So in summary, I think your approach has a great deal of merit 👍

that's good to hear. The way I looked at it, the £120 setup was the cheapest option , well apart from going with smaller transducers, and worth trying out and then I can build on it in future if needed. Bit like a lot with sim hardware, you start at the lower end and build up over time, unless your a rich so and so with money to burn ;-)
but as I say I'm really happy with my setup. I still need to spend some time tweaking as I feel it's a bit hit and miss sometimes. but in VR with all the small vibrations its very immersive, and when your flying around bends at 100mph so much is going on, the vibration from the seat, pedals and wheel, it all just adds up to the experience. And the Dayton transducers really shake, I've got the amp on 75% and that's ample to shake the whole seat.
Would love to swap some simhub settings, it's very personal but trying to find the right balance in GT7 is quite tricky I'm finding.

 

[roytheboy]

that's good to hear. The way I looked at it, the £120 setup was the cheapest option , well apart from going with smaller transducers, and worth trying out and then I can build on it in future if needed. Bit like a lot with sim hardware, you start at the lower end and build up over time, unless your a rich so and so with money to burn ;-)
but as I say I'm really happy with my setup. I still need to spend some time tweaking as I feel it's a bit hit and miss sometimes. but in VR with all the small vibrations its very immersive, and when your flying around bends at 100mph so much is going on, the vibration from the seat, pedals and wheel, it all just adds up to the experience. And the Dayton transducers really shake, I've got the amp on 75% and that's ample to shake the whole seat.
Would love to swap some simhub settings, it's very personal but trying to find the right balance in GT7 is quite tricky I'm finding.

Well now; after reading about half of the 6000+ posts on the RD forum about every single aspect of tactile immersion that you can possibly imagine, and many more, I feel both enlightened and confused in equal measure. I’m also quite tired and have very dry eyes from so much reading!

I’m going to summarise my findings and conclusions for the benefit of others but I will be starting with BST-1s or BK Minis under the pedals and seat, with isolating mounts of some description under the seat runners and pedal unit. I’ve read so much useful gen that there is obviously a lot more to it than what I’ve just written, but that can follow later.

From there I will probably add smaller seat transducers or a ShakeKit of some kind to add finer vibrational textures, and the Sim 3D peddle rumble kit looks like a quick and inexpensive way to add a bit of extra feedback to the feet. The only frightening thing about all this is the shortage of equipment and the gobsmaking rise in prices. A little over a year ago the Dayton Audio BST-1 was around £56 on Amazon. Yesterday it was £84. Today it is £103 😳

At this rate I’ll only be able to afford to strap a battery-powered dildo to each side of my race seat!

 

[Pr197uk]

Well now; after reading about half of the 6000+ posts on the RD forum about every single aspect of tactile immersion that you can possibly imagine, and many more, I feel both enlightened and confused in equal measure. I’m also quite tired and have very dry eyes from so much reading!

I’m going to summarise my findings and conclusions for the benefit of others but I will be starting with BST-1s or BK Minis under the pedals and seat, with isolating mounts of some description under the seat runners and pedal unit. I’ve read so much useful gen that there is obviously a lot more to it than what I’ve just written, but that can follow later.

From there I will probably add smaller seat transducers or a ShakeKit of some kind to add finer vibrational textures, and the Sim 3D peddle rumble kit looks like a quick and inexpensive way to add a bit of extra feedback to the feet. The only frightening thing about all this is the shortage of equipment and the gobsmaking rise in prices. A little over a year ago the Dayton Audio BST-1 was around £56 on Amazon. Yesterday it was £84. Today it is £103 😳

At this rate I’ll only be able to afford to strap a battery-powered dildo to each side of my race seat!

Hold fire on the dildo...I got mine BsT-1 from sound imports in the netherlands, they arrived in 3 days and were cheaper, 100euros for both inc postage.

 

[SaveTheKid]

Well this thread got me thinking over the weekend and now I’ve gone all in.

Tested Simhub first on Bootcamp with my Macbook which surprisingly worked with no fuss apart from the simple job of setting the windows firewall rules.

Went with 2 Daytons and Nobsound amp. I’ve seen a video where somebody used a VESA mount for under their seat, but GTOmega seat is too narrow so I’ve come up with the idea to use an aluminium vent instead so I don’t need to drill holes.

 

[roytheboy]

Hold fire on the dildo...I got mine BsT-1 from sound imports in the netherlands, they arrived in 3 days and were cheaper, 100euros for both inc postage.

Ordered, thanks. Even with VAT on top, two BST-1's from Sound Imports will be the same price as one from Amazon ...good find 👍 Now I just have to wait two weeks for them to re-stock and dispatch!

I've found a suitable vesa mount for the shaker under my seat, and some 3mm aluminium plate on which to re-mount my CSL pedals and a shaker (I have two pedals with a gap between, kart-style, where the BST-1 should fit) so that I can separate them from the industrial-weight, forged by the dwarf-lords of Khazad-dûm, Sim-Lab pedal mounting plate.

Now all I need to do is decide on the best anti-vibration mounts for the two zones (seat and pedals). As usual I have spent hours researching the subject, learning about rubber materials, Shore scales, DMSL (deflection at max sheer load) and suchlike, only to end up realising that I'm going to have to suck it and see 🙄

There are lots of anti-vibe options in order to keep the shaker's outputs within the zones and away from the rig's frames, but some are quite big and the greatest issue to overcome is not introducing anything more than negligible additional flex, especially given what some of us spend to ensure minimum flex.

Another issue I have is keeping the height of the pedal deck down as I'm a tall bloke with spine problems, and my wheel is already at max height. My thinking at the moment is to use good old-fashioned anti-vibe bobbins, but to ensure they are only 15mm high with a diameter of at least 30mm i.e. minimal sheer deflection whilst still being vibrationally absorbent. I won't know if it'll work until I try but if four per zone gives too much flex, I'll add some more to spread the load. I need to wait for the shakers before starting in earnest, so if you have any thoughts or alternative ideas to add (anyone), fire away 🤔

 

[SaveTheKid]

Managed to get my setup all done in a few hours after it all arrived from Amazon. Had to drill holes in the GTOmega pedal stand as the pre drilled holes didn’t line up, and also zip tied one bass shaker to the springs under my seat as my bracket/mount is still a few weeks away.

Surprisingly all worked without any dramas. Will probably still move the shaker from my springs when the mount arrives as I feel the vibrations are too directed at my backside rather than spread out.

 

[cptnor]

I had a Logitech system on my rig and tapped the bass signal from the sub to the amp, that amp to the shakers. Works perfect.

I have a small under the pedals, and a large under the seat, it feels perfect.

I built the shaker setup for under 160.00

Hi, i have Logitech Z906 5.1 system, so would i be able to set up something similar where the Sub goes to amp and amp goes to shaker?

May I know what cable you use to connect?

 

[SniderRon]

Hi all. I’ve just splashed out on a PS5, PSVR2, Sim-Lab 8020 rig, GT Omega recliner seat, and a Fanatec DD GT wheelbase. I was impressed running GT7 in VR with a DualSense but yesterday I got the full rig set up and OMG; OMG …OMFG!

But the awesome level of immersion has left me with an obvious gap in my racing expectations from when I used to race for real, in that I cannot feel the engine, the road or the kerbs. So I’ve decided to go down the bass-shakers route spending as little as I need to given my already over-stretched budget.

I’ve read about the different bass-shakers available and have concluded that Dayton Audio are the brand to go for. But rather than strapping BST-1's to the rig itself and having to worry about disturbing others in the house, I’m thinking that the smaller TT25's positioned close to my body might be more subtle and cheaper too.

Ideally I’d like 5: one on the base of each pedal, one under the wheelbase mount, and one each side of the seat base, attached to the springs. In the first instance I’ll go for four channels and see if it’s OK without the wheel shaker, but I want the option for a fifth channel if required.

I’m a Linux/Mac kinda guy so the prospect of getting a Windows PC to run SimHub is not a pleasant one. But needs must when the devil vomits into your kettle, as Blackadder said! So, following hours of research, I have what I think is the best route to go. Would you peeps mind commenting on my thoughts and questions please, if you are able, and I’m sure it would help others too.

1. PC Laptop - Most articles I read say that it’s better to buy a basic new laptop, rather than a refurbished old one with old parts. The cheapest, smallest, well-reviewed laptop that looks like it’ll do the job (I don’t need it for anything else) is the Asus E410MA 14” 4GB/64GB running Windows 10S or 11S, for £209. It has Bluetooth, a USB Type-C, and two USB 3.2. Will this be suffice to run SimHub and the equipment that follows, please?

2. Amp(s) Option 1 - I could get two Nobsound NS-10G’s, or two Nobsound NS-01G Pro’s (with a sound card and volume). They cost the same. I’m confused: would I need a sound card with the NS-10G’s or should I go straight for the NS-01G Pro’s? Is it best to connect via USB or will BT be better (if indeed it is possible)?

3. Amp Option 2 - I could get a Nobsound Douk Audio M4 4-channel amp. I’m thinking that the Douk might be better if it connects to the PC by one USB, leaving another free for a fifth channel …am I right? I’m also thinking that one power supply would be neater. The Douk looks neat but has mixed good/bad reviews - is anyone else using one?

4. Bass-shakers - at £85 the BST-1's are expensive when buying four, as are the BST-2’s. Am I right to think that the TT25’s (8 ohms) mounted close to my body will be better value? …will I still feel enough vibes through the pedals given that they are bolted down tight? Will shakers directly under the seat springs get hot?

Hi all. I’ve just splashed out on a PS5, PSVR2, Sim-Lab 8020 rig, GT Omega recliner seat, and a Fanatec DD GT wheelbase. I was impressed running GT7 in VR with a DualSense but yesterday I got the full rig set up and OMG; OMG …OMFG!

But the awesome level of immersion has left me with an obvious gap in my racing expectations from when I used to race for real, in that I cannot feel the engine, the road or the kerbs. So I’ve decided to go down the bass-shakers route spending as little as I need to given my already over-stretched budget.

I’ve read about the different bass-shakers available and have concluded that Dayton Audio are the brand to go for. But rather than strapping BST-1's to the rig itself and having to worry about disturbing others in the house, I’m thinking that the smaller TT25's positioned close to my body might be more subtle and cheaper too.

Ideally I’d like 5: one on the base of each pedal, one under the wheelbase mount, and one each side of the seat base, attached to the springs. In the first instance I’ll go for four channels and see if it’s OK without the wheel shaker, but I want the option for a fifth channel if required.

I’m a Linux/Mac kinda guy so the prospect of getting a Windows PC to run SimHub is not a pleasant one. But needs must when the devil vomits into your kettle, as Blackadder said! So, following hours of research, I have what I think is the best route to go. Would you peeps mind commenting on my thoughts and questions please, if you are able, and I’m sure it would help others too.

1. PC Laptop - Most articles I read say that it’s better to buy a basic new laptop, rather than a refurbished old one with old parts. The cheapest, smallest, well-reviewed laptop that looks like it’ll do the job (I don’t need it for anything else) is the Asus E410MA 14” 4GB/64GB running Windows 10S or 11S, for £209. It has Bluetooth, a USB Type-C, and two USB 3.2. Will this be suffice to run SimHub and the equipment that follows, please?

2. Amp(s) Option 1 - I could get two Nobsound NS-10G’s, or two Nobsound NS-01G Pro’s (with a sound card and volume). They cost the same. I’m confused: would I need a sound card with the NS-10G’s or should I go straight for the NS-01G Pro’s? Is it best to connect via USB or will BT be better (if indeed it is possible)?

3. Amp Option 2 - I could get a Nobsound Douk Audio M4 4-channel amp. I’m thinking that the Douk might be better if it connects to the PC by one USB, leaving another free for a fifth channel …am I right? I’m also thinking that one power supply would be neater. The Douk looks neat but has mixed good/bad reviews - is anyone else using one?

4. Bass-shakers - at £85 the BST-1's are expensive when buying four, as are the BST-2’s. Am I right to think that the TT25’s (8 ohms) mounted close to my body will be better value? …will I still feel enough vibes through the pedals given that they are bolted down tight? Will shakers directly under the seat springs get hot?

I am trying to use the Douk 4 channel amp to drive 3 Dayton Audio Bass Shakers. Problem is that everything looks correct, PC sees the amp, Simhub sees the amp but no signal reaches the Bass Shakers. I am confused. Any ideas?

 

[roytheboy]

I am trying to use the Douk 4 channel amp to drive 3 Dayton Audio Bass Shakers. Problem is that everything looks correct, PC sees the amp, Simhub sees the amp but no signal reaches the Bass Shakers. I am confused. Any ideas?

Sorry, I'm certainly no expert in this equipment having only just installed my own amp and shakers, and this is the first PC I have ever owned, so I don't think I can be much help.

 

[DC5Remy]

Hi, i have Logitech Z906 5.1 system, so would i be able to set up something similar where the Sub goes to amp and amp goes to shaker?

May I know what cable you use to connect?

Amp this included the wires I used. I stripped the RC end and put them on the sub signal

Large shaker

Pedal shaker


That’s my setup. I screwed the amp and large shaker to a board, and bolted that under the seat.

 

[cptnor]

Sorry, I'm certainly no expert in this equipment having only just installed my own amp and shakers, and this is the first PC I have ever owned, so I don't think I can be much help.

Amp this included the wires I used. I stripped the RC end and put them on the sub signal

Large shaker

Pedal shaker


That’s my setup. I screwed the amp and large shaker to a board, and bolted that under the seat.

Sorry dc5remy. I’m retarded when it comes to electrical equipment. But May I ask what it means to strip RC end? Anyway you can show in picture. Sorry for all the trouble and stupid question. I actually looked at the amp and shakers yesterday. So those hardware I’m at least on the right track. It’s just the cable connecting part I’m still dumbfounded

 

[DC5Remy]

Sorry dc5remy. I’m retarded when it comes to electrical equipment. But May I ask what it means to strip RC end? Anyway you can show in picture. Sorry for all the trouble and stupid question. I actually looked at the amp and shakers yesterday. So those hardware I’m at least on the right track. It’s just the cable connecting part I’m still dumbfounded

 

[cptnor]

this is the back of my subroofer, where do i connect the black/red open end?

because the bottom section for the open end is all specific to each speaker

• rear left
• rear right
• front left
• front right

-center

there isn't one that labels "subroofer". am i missing something?

if anyone else can provide advice that be awesome

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