R/C cars

  • Thread starter Joey D
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Joey D

Joey D

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Since Jordan won't make a forum for this I will make a thread for it.

Any of you have an R/C car and I mean real ones. Not Tyco or any other kiddie one.

I have a Tamiya TA-04 R chassie. An Altezza HKS Racing body. Custom Chrome rims wraped with Tamiya Narrow racing slicks. Its Powered by a 14 double turn engine. Its controlled by a Futaba radio and Futaba Servo's.

It took me about 1 month to build and about 700 bucks. The car alone was 300 bucks and all the add ons and radio was about 400.

I want to get into the race scene but I need a better car first. My car will only go about 15-17 miles per hour. I need a faster car and a bigger engine.
 
The name of a specific forum shouldn't limit you to certain subjects - if you want to talk about your R/C car, post it in the Automotive Forum or The Rumble Strip. Both places would be appropriate for all the posts you can make about the subject.
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Jordan ok this to be here just in case someone thinks this shouldn't be here
 
Thats a nice RC. I was always thinking about buying an RC truck but never had the time or money to do it. Now I have the money but no TIME. If only there was 36 hours in a day!!!
 
Well I would only get a truck if you want to do off road racing. They aren't very good on the street. They flip easy.

And thanks for the compliment. I'll take a pic of mine. I put a lot of work into mine
 
Of course they flip easily thats why I would take it off-roading.

Sure take a pic I would be more than happy to take a look at it.
 
I have a Kyosho GP Landmax, with, I think, a 0.2 GSR engine in it, shaft-drive to all four wheels, and front/rear brakes. It has fully adjustable suspension, which genuinely makes a difference to handling. I've got a Subaru WRC (Mk1) body for it.

Unfortunately, it's much faster than my ability to drive it, and so I've wrecked it a number of times, each time rebuilding it. I currently have a problem with the engine shifting in its mountings, causing the drive to disengage. And the front brakes aren't working, but that's a relatively easy fix. However, like Tazz says, no time!

I really enjoy the fact that it's been hard work to own. I had it built for me, but if I were to get another car, I would build it myself, now I know what's going on with it. I had a huge crash, involving large speed (30+ mph), a kerbstone, and more distance than radio range. It took me 10 - 15hrs to rebuild the car, and that's really cool, because now I have a much greater understanding of the car and affinity towards it.
 
Originally posted by Dudebusta
a little 20 hey, should go pretty quick.

ive been thinking about getting a car but my plane keeps me well interested.
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Oh yeah, it's quick alright.

A plane would be cool, if only to annoy the neighnbours!! I already wind up the skateboarding fraternity with the car!
 
I got a Tamiya nitro. It's a CLK Touring Car Body with a TG-10 Chassis and a FS-12LT motor. It's controlled by a JR Racing Radio with Hitec servos. So far it's stock, but I'm thinking of getting a new muffler because the one I have isn't letting the engine do it's thing. Tamiya DTM CLK

It gets up to around 20-25 MPH. I had a very, very close call with a Cadillac. I was lucky i was running with no body. I went full throttle down my street, when all of a sudden a Cadillac comes around the corner and literally went over my car(not ran over). I immediately ran to my car and checked everything to see if it was alright.

After that incident, I'm very careful when I run my car. :D
 
Originally posted by GilesGuthrie


Oh yeah, it's quick alright.

A plane would be cool, if only to annoy the neighnbours!! I already wind up the skateboarding fraternity with the car!
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Lol, winding skateboarders up. Three mates and I took a couple of buggies and trucks (full race spec) to our local skatepark, great fun! 20- 30 foot jumps were done along with some sweet grinding. As for my collection, I currently have 21 ranging from a four wheel drive, four wheel steer Bullhead, to a full race Yokomo MR4 SP touring car. Most of them are old Tamiya as I am a collector although I buy anything that I fancy (as long as it's cheap enough!

streetracer, your TA04 with a 14 in should go way more than 17! I would expect 25- 30 out of that!
 
Originally posted by Piglet
I got a Tamiya nitro. It's a CLK Touring Car Body with a TG-10 Chassis and a FS-12LT motor. It's controlled by a JR Racing Radio with Hitec servos. So far it's stock, but I'm thinking of getting a new muffler because the one I have isn't letting the engine do it's thing. Tamiya DTM CLK

It gets up to around 20-25 MPH. I had a very, very close call with a Cadillac. I was lucky i was running with no body. I went full throttle down my street, when all of a sudden a Cadillac comes around the corner and literally went over my car(not ran over). I immediately ran to my car and checked everything to see if it was alright.

After that incident, I'm very careful when I run my car. :D
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Is the exhaust venting outside the car? I only ask because mine wasn't initially, and it was strangling the engine until I cut a hole in the body.
 
Originally posted by GilesGuthrie


Oh yeah, it's quick alright.

A plane would be cool, if only to annoy the neighnbours!! I already wind up the skateboarding fraternity with the car!
Click to expand...

i do pylon racing and ive got a 60 (.6 of a cubic inch) in my pylon plane with a tuned pipe. it pulls 350kmh heh...hows that for grunt :lol: full carbon fibre fueselage, which set me back 3400 bucks and the rest (wing, prop, servos, radio, receiver etc) was around another 4000. its expensive but do ya get a rush! :eek:

sorry, its a bit off topic.

EDIT: 350kmh at 33000 rpm ;)
 
In the pic, the muffler is really short and there is a tube that runs to the rear bumper. The muffler itself is holding back power.


44028.jpg
 
Fair enough. Judging from the scale, I would say that the muffler on my car is roughly twice the length, and about 1.5 times the diameter - i.e. much bigger! And it has a side-exit exhaust, hence the requirement to chop the bodywork.
 
streetracer, your TA04 with a 14 in should go way more than 17! I would expect 25- 30 out of that!
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I tried it out again today and got it up to 22 and beat my friend on his bike.I need to get my tires broke in. I got a ton of wheel spin,plus the gearing is stock.

The good thing is I can do mad crazy drifts with it.
 
My friend stuck a little speedometer on his bike and rides next to my car. I can drift really good except the body shell scrapes the ground.
 
I know there are a few of you here that have R/C's. So here is my question: Do you know any sites that I can go to for car setups?

I'm having a terriable time keeping the car from getting real loose on the turns.
 
Originally posted by streetracer780


I tried it out again today and got it up to 22 and beat my friend on his bike.I need to get my tires broke in. I got a ton of wheel spin,plus the gearing is stock.

The good thing is I can do mad crazy drifts with it.
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Count yourself lucky! For a long time, my car was spinning the hubs inside the tyres! I cured this simply, by glueing the tyres to the rims!
 
Originally posted by streetracer780
I know there are a few of you here that have R/C's. So here is my question: Do you know any sites that I can go to for car setups?

I'm having a terriable time keeping the car from getting real loose on the turns.
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You might want to have a look at your rear camber and toe. If your rear tyres are toed-out (i.e. V shaped with the point of the V behind the car), this will cause the car to overreact to turns.

You a GT3 player?
 
Ya I play GT3. I never thought of it that way.

Ok I'm going to soften up the back. There is no toe on the car at all. Its pretty well staight. I'll also put some camber on it.

Thanks for the help.
 
Originally posted by streetracer780
Ya I play GT3. I never thought of it that way.

Ok I'm going to soften up the back. There is no toe on the car at all. Its pretty well staight. I'll also put some camber on it.

Thanks for the help.
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Aye, well the same principles apply. I added a little camber on the front, and a little toe-in on the front, and it's really sharpened up the steering, but it's still quite pushy. I want a little trace of oversteer under power, but I think the power split may be killing that. You probably want positive camber (i.e. wheel tops closer to each other than bottoms) on the rear to help rolled-stability.

Tried running my car again today, but the main transfer gear is completely shagged, so I'm going to have to replace it. Doesn't look like an easy job. Also, the engine's fallen desperately out of tune.
 
I'll try the camber in the back cause I don't like kicking the back out everytime I try and turn.

Thanks
 
Originally posted by GilesGuthrie

other than bottoms) on the rear to help rolled-stability.
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What you described is negative camber. You want about 2 degrees at the front and a degree at the back to go on. The car should be toeing in at the front just a touch. Adjust the settings from there:)
 

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