Racers Reunited: GT Career Mode Challenge
- Thread starter Zolon32
- 1,386 comments
- 90,567 views
- 706
- London
- Sparks_360
I'm sure some members who take part in this will remember back in the Zero Cup days that i use to take photos after the races, good times. Well i plan to start doing that again as the photos you can take in this game is breathtaking.
Everyone is ready to go. (Well when i say ready)
Everyone made it to the first corner safely.
BB takes out Dann.
That's a bit ambitious from Venari to say the least.
Not good.
Sends Zo and Suts to there next flight.
Bit of a Kansei Dorifto moment from BB.
Where's he going?
Good angles.
Favourite shot.
Awesome stuff @Zolon32. Take care all. Great racing.
Everyone made it to the first corner safely.
BB takes out Dann.
That's a bit ambitious from Venari to say the least.
Not good.
Sends Zo and Suts to there next flight.
Bit of a Kansei Dorifto moment from BB.
Where's he going?
Good angles.
Favourite shot.
Awesome stuff @Zolon32. Take care all. Great racing.
- 672
- Boxberg Baden
- Simba2009Lora
Well done @daan , I had been a bit impatient in the pits when I took too little fuel for the remaining laps. I tried to save fuel but it just wasn´t enough and while I was heading to the finish line with no power, @Zolon32 managed to get by as well.
All in all it was a lot of fun as nearly everytime with you all.
All in all it was a lot of fun as nearly everytime with you all.
- 36,679
- Scotland
- GTP_daan
I thought that was the case. I managed to get exactly what I needed and didn't really lose any time to you during the stop.Well done @daan , I had been a bit impatient in the pits when I took too little fuel for the remaining laps. I tried to save fuel but it just wasn´t enough and while I was heading to the finish line with no power, @Zolon32 managed to get by as well.
All in all it was a lot of fun as nearly everytime with you all.
- 87,272
- Rule 12
- GTP_Famine
I've written a new function into the Kerfuffle to deal with disconnects. Previously I treated them like DNFs. Now if a driver is flagged with a disconnect they're excluded from the time-based calculation (which is now a mean-gap-to-mean... yeah, I know) and simply moved to a car one position faster. They're already in what the sheet thinks is the "right" car, so going one faster should allow a recoup of points lost from the disconnection without overpowering the field.
Each race now has 20 columns of calculations
Looks daunting, but it's all automatic; the host only has to fill in two columns for each race (with a third in the event of a DC), and one (optionally two) set for one race to set it up.
Speaking of disconnects and invisible lobbies...
So GT Sport - like GT6 and GT5, and GT5P - is a bit sensitive to network environments, and a connection that's fine one day (or hour) might be ropey the next. There's an "easy" way to optimise your own network environment and make it as stable and friendly as possible.
Step 1 - Wire it in
A wired connection is innately more stable (and marginally broader and more responsive) than a wireless one.
Step 2 - Static IP address
This is a little more complicated and requires knowing a very small amount about your home network.
In essence, your router (the thing that plugs into the outside world) has a small amount of addresses (called IP addresses) that it assigns to the devices connecting to it. It receives information from the outside world, works out which device it has to go to and sends it there. Your device also sends information to it, which the router translates to show which device it has come from, and sends it out. This is a function known as "Network Address Translation" (NAT). Now you know what "NAT Type" means - the type of NAT currently used. NAT Type 2 is best and NAT Type 3 is the worst, for really boring reasons. If you have NAT Type 3 you will absolutely need to do the rest of this list.
If left to its own devices (it probably would), the router will assign IP addresses automatically. This means that every time a device is turned on, the router gives it a number. This is usually sequential, but not always, and known as DHCP (Dynamic Host Configuration Protocol). If you have lots of devices connected at once, this can sometimes cause issues as a device "wants" the IP address another one is using. It's usually only a hiccup, but it can be bad if you're doing 140mph when it hiccups because your kid is checking their phone...
For stability purposes it's better to assign each and every device in your house its own, permanent IP address. First you'll need to find out what IP addresses your router uses. Usually, this will be 192.168.0.[any number from 2-255], with the router itself as 192.168.0.1, but not always*. Best way to check is to look at the router's own IP address, printed on the back of it. That's the address you'd type into your browser to log into your router's control panel. Once you've found out, pick a number from 2-255...
Then, on the PS4 go to:
Settings (second button from the right hand side)
-> Network
-> Set Up Internet Connection
If you've wired it in as above, pick "use a LAN cable". If not, bad you, pick WiFi.
On the next screen pick "Custom", and then "Manual". Now you need to enter the IP address you've chosen, along with some other... kookier information.
For your IP address enter the number you picked. "Subnet Mask" is even more almost always going to be 255.255.255.0. "Default Gateway" is your router's address. The DNS (Domain Name Server; the servers that change the IP addresses of locations into names, like gtplanet.net) settings are up to you; your ISP has its DNS and these will likely be in the router's control panel under DNS. It's easier to use the free DNS at OpenDNS. These are "208.67.220.220" and "208.67.222.222".
As a random example, the screen should now look something like this:
IP Address - 192.168.0.4
Subnet Mask - 255.255.255.0
Default Gateway - 192.168.0.1
Primary DNS - 208.67.220.220
Secondary DNS - 208.67.222.222
On the next screens hit Automatic, Do Not Use and Test. It'll now do a network test. If you have set ANYTHING wrong, it will fail at the "Obtain IP address" or "Internet Connection" stage. Double check your numbers...
Lastly, it's best to do exactly the same thing in your router, and it's required for the next step. Routers vary wildly in where to find this function, but you should have your own instruction manual for it... It's likely to be under an advanced settings menu, labelled as IP addresses or network configuration or something similar. All you need to do is find your console (this can be tricky, as it may be listed by its MAC address; you can find your console's MAC address in its Settings menu somewhere. I forget where. It's a set of six pairs of hexadecimal numbers, from 00-FF, separated by colons), click on that and enter the IP address you picked for it.
If you think this is geeky, I've done it for every device in my house, numbering 25 or so now. And the consoles, laptops, mobiles and computers are separated into dedicated IP blocs, so when we get a new one it's easy to remember what the next number should be. NEEEEEEEEEEEEEERD!
Step 3 - DMZ
So, basically, devices need to send information out through "ports". This is stupendously difficult to explain - you and I might think that a "port" is what you plug a cable into, but it's not. Well, not in this sense - it's a networking thing. Routers have built-in protective "firewalls" that block certain ports under certain conditions. This is great - it helps prevent your computer from being compromised, or sending out information when it has been - but when a console has its ports blocked, you can't game.
Routers also have a place outside of their normal firewall called the DMZ - which, yes, is the Demilitarised Zone. This is a connection where the firewall doesn't exist, so there's no defences. As there's no defences, there's no ports blocked. This is great news for gaming.
Once you've assigned the static IP address to the PS4 both in the console and in the router, you'll want to find your router's DMZ function. Again, this varies wildly, but is often just labelled as "DMZ". It may be under a Firewall menu or similar. Again, consult your manual. You'll need to then assign the console's IP address (or some routers allow you to assign the device, if you can remember its MAC Address, or you gave it a name) to the DMZ.
You can only assign a single device or IP to a DMZ, and your console is the safest thing to put there.
Once you've done all this, the chances are that you won't see any immediate differences in the network test. You might have a slightly lower ping, or a slightly higher bandwidth, but probably won't. But what you will have is the absolute ideal conditions for your console for online gaming, and the only disconnects that will affect you should be when everyone gets booted from a lobby. Or if your internet connection itself falls over, or there's a power cut.
It won't cure low bandwidth, high ping connections, but it will make it more stable and it's everything you can do to make it work. Unless your ISP throttles gaming traffic, which some do, the bastards...
*Mine is NOT the same as this. If yours isn't as well, and you don't know what you're doing, shout at me in PMs and I'll help
Each race now has 20 columns of calculations
Looks daunting, but it's all automatic; the host only has to fill in two columns for each race (with a third in the event of a DC), and one (optionally two) set for one race to set it up.Speaking of disconnects and invisible lobbies...
So GT Sport - like GT6 and GT5, and GT5P - is a bit sensitive to network environments, and a connection that's fine one day (or hour) might be ropey the next. There's an "easy" way to optimise your own network environment and make it as stable and friendly as possible.
Step 1 - Wire it in
A wired connection is innately more stable (and marginally broader and more responsive) than a wireless one.
Step 2 - Static IP address
This is a little more complicated and requires knowing a very small amount about your home network.
In essence, your router (the thing that plugs into the outside world) has a small amount of addresses (called IP addresses) that it assigns to the devices connecting to it. It receives information from the outside world, works out which device it has to go to and sends it there. Your device also sends information to it, which the router translates to show which device it has come from, and sends it out. This is a function known as "Network Address Translation" (NAT). Now you know what "NAT Type" means - the type of NAT currently used. NAT Type 2 is best and NAT Type 3 is the worst, for really boring reasons. If you have NAT Type 3 you will absolutely need to do the rest of this list.
If left to its own devices (it probably would), the router will assign IP addresses automatically. This means that every time a device is turned on, the router gives it a number. This is usually sequential, but not always, and known as DHCP (Dynamic Host Configuration Protocol). If you have lots of devices connected at once, this can sometimes cause issues as a device "wants" the IP address another one is using. It's usually only a hiccup, but it can be bad if you're doing 140mph when it hiccups because your kid is checking their phone...
For stability purposes it's better to assign each and every device in your house its own, permanent IP address. First you'll need to find out what IP addresses your router uses. Usually, this will be 192.168.0.[any number from 2-255], with the router itself as 192.168.0.1, but not always*. Best way to check is to look at the router's own IP address, printed on the back of it. That's the address you'd type into your browser to log into your router's control panel. Once you've found out, pick a number from 2-255...
Then, on the PS4 go to:
Settings (second button from the right hand side)
-> Network
-> Set Up Internet Connection
If you've wired it in as above, pick "use a LAN cable". If not, bad you, pick WiFi.
On the next screen pick "Custom", and then "Manual". Now you need to enter the IP address you've chosen, along with some other... kookier information.
For your IP address enter the number you picked. "Subnet Mask" is even more almost always going to be 255.255.255.0. "Default Gateway" is your router's address. The DNS (Domain Name Server; the servers that change the IP addresses of locations into names, like gtplanet.net) settings are up to you; your ISP has its DNS and these will likely be in the router's control panel under DNS. It's easier to use the free DNS at OpenDNS. These are "208.67.220.220" and "208.67.222.222".
As a random example, the screen should now look something like this:
IP Address - 192.168.0.4
Subnet Mask - 255.255.255.0
Default Gateway - 192.168.0.1
Primary DNS - 208.67.220.220
Secondary DNS - 208.67.222.222
On the next screens hit Automatic, Do Not Use and Test. It'll now do a network test. If you have set ANYTHING wrong, it will fail at the "Obtain IP address" or "Internet Connection" stage. Double check your numbers...
Lastly, it's best to do exactly the same thing in your router, and it's required for the next step. Routers vary wildly in where to find this function, but you should have your own instruction manual for it... It's likely to be under an advanced settings menu, labelled as IP addresses or network configuration or something similar. All you need to do is find your console (this can be tricky, as it may be listed by its MAC address; you can find your console's MAC address in its Settings menu somewhere. I forget where. It's a set of six pairs of hexadecimal numbers, from 00-FF, separated by colons), click on that and enter the IP address you picked for it.
If you think this is geeky, I've done it for every device in my house, numbering 25 or so now. And the consoles, laptops, mobiles and computers are separated into dedicated IP blocs, so when we get a new one it's easy to remember what the next number should be. NEEEEEEEEEEEEEERD!
Step 3 - DMZ
So, basically, devices need to send information out through "ports". This is stupendously difficult to explain - you and I might think that a "port" is what you plug a cable into, but it's not. Well, not in this sense - it's a networking thing. Routers have built-in protective "firewalls" that block certain ports under certain conditions. This is great - it helps prevent your computer from being compromised, or sending out information when it has been - but when a console has its ports blocked, you can't game.
Routers also have a place outside of their normal firewall called the DMZ - which, yes, is the Demilitarised Zone. This is a connection where the firewall doesn't exist, so there's no defences. As there's no defences, there's no ports blocked. This is great news for gaming.
Once you've assigned the static IP address to the PS4 both in the console and in the router, you'll want to find your router's DMZ function. Again, this varies wildly, but is often just labelled as "DMZ". It may be under a Firewall menu or similar. Again, consult your manual. You'll need to then assign the console's IP address (or some routers allow you to assign the device, if you can remember its MAC Address, or you gave it a name) to the DMZ.
You can only assign a single device or IP to a DMZ, and your console is the safest thing to put there.
Once you've done all this, the chances are that you won't see any immediate differences in the network test. You might have a slightly lower ping, or a slightly higher bandwidth, but probably won't. But what you will have is the absolute ideal conditions for your console for online gaming, and the only disconnects that will affect you should be when everyone gets booted from a lobby. Or if your internet connection itself falls over, or there's a power cut.
It won't cure low bandwidth, high ping connections, but it will make it more stable and it's everything you can do to make it work. Unless your ISP throttles gaming traffic, which some do, the bastards...
*Mine is NOT the same as this. If yours isn't as well, and you don't know what you're doing, shout at me in PMs and I'll help
Last edited:
- 87,272
- Rule 12
- GTP_Famine
- 2,604
- Banbaria.
- GTP_Venari
Well, it was a lousy connex from BT. I reset the router and it was OK. I have an 'up to 8Mbps' connex which usually is around 6.5Mbps. Thursday after reset it was 6.4. After DMZing, it was 6.9.
Wireless/wired doesn't matter too much for me because the router is pretty good at it and I'm close to it.
Wireless/wired doesn't matter too much for me because the router is pretty good at it and I'm close to it.
- 87,272
- Rule 12
- GTP_Famine
- 1,875
- England
- Zolon32
Yep BB. Sorry, I've been neglecting the thread again... I have a new obsession...
Anyway, if Famine doesn't mind someone ba**ardising his baby, I'll do it in 'no computer' mode, where drivers move up and down the car list according to win, second place, second to last and last, keeping things simple enough for me to officiate. That will mean, first goes up two cars, last comes down two cars, and the others...
We'll kick off in the Mk VII Golf, around Alsace Village, on S/H tyres.
- 87,272
- Rule 12
- GTP_Famine
That was the plan. However, I've been talking to God on the big white telephone most of today and my wife has vetoed the concept of me getting out of bed. She has a point.
I have a couple of alternative. One is for someone else to take control of the spreadsheet for an evening. I don't know how many people we're due to get though and I've not prepped it for any other field size but seven. Another is to use one of the cars from the list for a race and balance off the power/weight.
Or what @Zolon32 says above.
- 706
- London
- Sparks_360
- 1,875
- England
- Zolon32
Excellent suggestions chaps. I take it that Sparkz means Colorado Springs, which is very green indeed. (He couldn't possibly mean that meter wide strip of broken tarmac that runs around a mountain somewhere in Germany, could he?)
So, Porsche 911GT3 RS it is. Stock settings (which include a dirt set up), dirt tyres. 100% power and 87% weight. Short races around Colorado Springs (The shortest of the rally tracks). Winners will be rewarded with power reduction
Don't forget to bring your fabulous liveries, and watch for those low-flying drones.
Cheers, Zo.
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- 706
- London
- Sparks_360
Crap. Best sell those plane tickets then. Was looking forward to Germany 
.
.
- 706
- London
- Sparks_360
Good morning all, hope you’re all well, just a question for tomorrow’s race. We racing on the forward variant or reverse variant? (Or both?).
- 1,875
- England
- Zolon32
We'll be doing the clockwise route Sparkz, which I think is the forward one.
Cheers, Zo.
Might have a punt on the anticlockwise track too, time permitting.
- 1,875
- England
- Zolon32
Just for a bit of variation, anyone who wants to do so can take the A45 AMG Merc for a spin tonight, set at 100% power and 84% weight. It drives totally differently from the Porsche, but laps in a very similar time.
We'll be using tight rolling starts to mitigate against the 2WD/4WD differential.
Cheers, Zo.
We'll be using tight rolling starts to mitigate against the 2WD/4WD differential.
Cheers, Zo.
- 706
- London
- Sparks_360
Today was frantic to say the least.
Oh look, Suts was first. Briefly.
Venari just went airborne there.
Goofy can't get through, a certain someone causing gridlock.
Zo giving BB a little love tap.
BB does the same, but a little too spicy.
Simba catapulted me, Zo being a witness.
This beetle is a little squirrely.
Honestly the most fun i've had in a long time, (still waiting for my spare arms Oh look, Suts was first. Briefly.
Venari just went airborne there.
Goofy can't get through, a certain someone causing gridlock.
Zo giving BB a little love tap.
BB does the same, but a little too spicy.
Simba catapulted me, Zo being a witness.
This beetle is a little squirrely.
) absolutely epic. Good races all, have a good week.
Last edited:
- 1,875
- England
- Zolon32
No need to apologise Daan, if it's not your thing then it's perfectly sensible doing something else. Hopefully this week will be more to your liking...
WHAT THE HELL IS T.D.M. T.D.T. RACING?
It's short for 'Three Different Motors, Three Different Tyres.'
On Tuesday we'll be venturing off to Maggiore East, and with us we'll be taking, the Lambo LP400 (for those flush with credits), the Toyota SFR Racing Concept, and the Subaru WRX STi Type S 14. You can use any, or all of the cars, it's up to you.
The settings of power and weight are designed to make them lap as closely as possible, whilst offering quite differing driving styles.
Those settings are:
Lambo, 110% power, 105% weight, S/M tyres.
Toyota, 110% power, 105% weight, C/S tyres.
Subaru 120% power, 86% weight, S/H tyres.
There will be three races, with sufficient time between for those who want to use all three cars to familiarise themselves with their new motor. Maximising the strengths of each will be the key to success. Good luck with that.
Depletion will be on, but not at a very great rate, however, you might like to check how much fuel you have at the start; will it get you to the end? Who knows?
Cheers, Zo.
Thanks for doing the photos Sparkz 👍
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